First Batch Questions!

[MagicMike314]

So I'm very excited to start the brewing journey! I bought a kit and a few weeks ago started making my first batch using the recipe that came with the kit (Fresh Squished IPA Extract Beer Recipe Kit).

It has been fermenting for 13 days now, and their suggestion is to bottle on day 14. However I'm curious what my course of action should be and had the following questions:

1) There is still a layer of gooey krausen on top. From what I've read it seems like it's not exactly ideal to bottle with that layer still on top, and should wait for it to drop?
2) The airlock bubbles every 90 seconds or so. Obviously this isn't the most scientific method to test when fermentation is complete, and should take gravity readings to confirm whether or not fermentation is complete. What's the best way to test? I would assume possibly using the auto-siphon to test - but is this viable with the layer of krausen on top?
3) Is there any value in cold crashing the beer at this point? I live in Michigan where it stays above freezing (for now) and is right around 40 degrees overnight, and could easily give it a night in the garage.

Thank you in advance for any information you can provide! I really appreciate it! Just an excited brewer who is trying to build up as much knowledge as possible!!

 

[3 Dawg Night]

The easiest way I've found to take a sample is using a thief. Make sure to sanitize the thief first, and draw just enough to float your hydrometer. Some people sanitize the hydrometer too and pour the sample back afterward, but I think it's not worth the infection risk. I pour the sample into a glass and taste it.

The krausen shouldn't make a difference. Just draw your sample from below. You want two equal readings a couple of days apart in order to call it done fermenting. When you're convinced it's done, just use your autosiphon to rack from between the krausen and the trub.

In general, I don't cold crash. I would think that's just another complication for your first brew.

 

[jschein]

3 Dawg gave some great advice. The thief is great, I have one. You could also use a turkey baster, just squeeze the bulb for suction before you put it in your beer, don’t wait to add oxygen at this stage of the game. Drink the sample it will give you an idea about the beer, remember it will change when it carbonates. Enjoy

 

[Dinadan]

2) The airlock bubbles every 90 seconds or so. Obviously this isn't the most scientific method to test when fermentation is complete, and should take gravity readings to confirm whether or not fermentation is complete. What's the best way to test? I would assume possibly using the auto-siphon to test - but is this viable with the layer of krausen on top?

Actually, I think that the bubbling airlock is a pretty good indicator that the beer is still fermenting. If it were my beer, I would wait until the airlock stops bubbling, and then test. The point of the two tests a couple of days apart is to make certain that fermentation is finished. As long as the airlock is bubbling, you pretty well know that it is not finished.

If the krausen is still there when you bottle, just make sure to siphon from below the krausen.

 

[palmtrees]

If it were my beer, I would wait until the airlock stops bubbling, and then test. The point of the two tests a couple of days apart is to make certain that fermentation is finished. As long as the airlock is bubbling, you pretty well know that it is not finished.

This is great advice. You want to keep the hydrometer tests to an absolute minimum. The more you open the fermenter, the more oxygen gets in, and the more quickly your beer will oxidate and lose those hoppy flavors. It's an even bigger concern if you'll be bottling (I assume you will), since you will have extra oxygen exposure from the bottling process and then will have to tack on that extra two weeks for bottle carbonation. Another few days in your fermenter won't hurt it, if you haven't opened the airlock at all. So I agree, I would wait until the bubbling stops, which should just be a few more days.

That said, I probably wouldn't leave it in the fermenter much longer than three weeks because IPA is best drunk fresh. It's a bit of balancing act, but the most important thing is to confirm fermentation has finished so you don't end up with bottle bombs and then avoid oxygen exposure as much as you can.

 

[Jag75]

I always leave my beer in the fv for 3 weeks . If your bottling the longer time will aid in keeping your bottles more sediment free.

Your beer is probably already done . The bubbles could be co2 escaping the beer . The only way to know for sure is checking with a hydrometer.

What kind of fermenter are you using ? If your going to cold crash make sure you can prevent suck back . It will lead to oxidation.

If I were you I would add the hops on day 17 and bottle on day 21 . But thats me . You will find what process you are comfortable with .

 

[estricklin]

While I always say an airlock NOT bubbling doesn't mean it isn't fermenting, if it IS bubbling that's a very good indicator there's some fermentation going on. There really shouldn't be much, or any still happening at 2 weeks, but it can happen, especially to beginners.

A hydrometer reading really doesn't tell you if the beer is done or not. It's a helpful tool, but unless you've repeatedly brewed the same beer under the same conditions, it's not a sure fire way. You could take a reading and say "Oh great 1.014 it's done", and really it's going to drop to 1.012 in another day or 2.

I understand it's your first batch and you want to drink it, but I don't want you to end up with glass flying everywhere because you didn't wait an extra few days to bottle your beer. Please, learn from MY mistakes, give it another week.

As you go down this homebrewing rabbit whole, at some point knowing when to bottle will become second nature. Congratulations on your first batch.

 

[3 Dawg Night]

A hydrometer reading really doesn't tell you if the beer is done or not.

I feel it's important to clarify: *A* hydrometer reading doesn't tell you if the beer is done, but *multiple* hydrometer readings over a couple of days will.

I just want to be clear, because it wasn't clear to me with my first couple of batches.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Looks like the kit instructions may have "nailed it" (emphasis added):

15. Active fermentation ends. Approximately one to two weeks after brewing day, active fermentation will end. When the cap of foam falls back into the new beer, bubbling in the air lock slows down or stops, and the specific gravity as measured with a hydrometer is stable, proceed to the next step.

Link to kit instructions can be found in #1.

 

[ncbrewer]

Depending on your method of temperature control, it might have warmed up a little. Warmer temperature lets the CO2 expand, which creates bubbling in the airlock. And solubility of CO2 is lower at higher temperature, so it comes out of solution and creates more bubbling. My suggestion is take a gravity sample at 18 days and another at 21 days. If they are the same, bottle. It is almost sure to be finished by that time, but stable gravity will confirm it. Also, if the temperature could change between the two samples, use an on-line calculator to correct the hydrometer reading for temperature. I hope it turns out great.

 

[Velnerj]

Lots of good advice given here. I'll just give my $0.02 regarding cold crashing. I noticed a considerable difference in the clarity of my beer every time I cold crash. When I was bottling there was not only clearer beer but a lot less sediment at the bottom of the bottles as well. Now I always cold crash for 24-72 hours depending on my schedule.

One way to mitigate suck back oxygenation is to use a long blow off tube.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

One way to mitigate suck back oxygenation is to use a long blow off tube.

This is a "new to me" approach. How long is the the blow off tube?

 

[Velnerj]

This is a "new to me" approach. How long is the the blow off tube?

It kind of depends on the volume of your fermenter and head space as well... Mine is about 3 feet in length but I'm guessing that there is no such thing as too long.
But you have to be using it during fermentation so the tube fills up with CO2. And then you have to make sure that you have enough sanitized liquid so that it all doesn't get sucked up and then allow air in.
If a little sanitized liquid that's been obliterated with CO2 Reaches your beer you'll still be fine....