First batch - air space query

[Hedley]

Hi Brewers,

I am preparing to brew my first batch of ale. I've done wine for a few years but nothing else.

I am using the Cincinnati Pale Ale from John Palmer's How to Brew (http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1-1.html), although scaling down to 2.5 instead of 5 gallons.

I am looking just to do a primary fermentation, so after the boil I am planning to transfer into a plastic 3 gallon bucket, fitted with an air lock. One of these (but without the temperature gauge): http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002H42I66/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Once cool, I will pitch the yeast, fit a lid and airlock and leave for two weeks, as per the recipe, then siphon straight into bottles (adding sugar capsules to the individual bottles to prime).

With the set up explained above there will be 3-4 inches of air between the fermenting liquid and the lid. Is that okay?

Why would people do a secondary fermentation, and if they do, do they need to be careful to not leave air space (as seems to be so important in wine-making, with all the topping up, using marbles, etc.)?

Any pointers most appreciated.

Ross

 

[JonM]

That amount of headspace will be fine in the primary. I've even done 2.5 gallons in a 5-gallon fermenter with no problems.

You're planning to chill to pitching temperature THEN putting it in the bucket, right?

Bottling you'll want to use a bottling wand for sure. Just make sure the yeast is done before bottling (check twice with a hydrometer a couple days apart - if the readings stay the same, you're ready to bottle.)

 

[unionrdr]

The 3 gallon pail sounds fine to me with a half gallon headspace. And yeah, a secondary does indeed need minimal headspace to minimize possible oxygenation. A hydrometer test done when it looks to be settling out clear or slightly misty should be done. Then wait till the third day & test again. If the numbers match, it's done & can be bottled. As was mentioned, definitely use a bottling wand.

 

[hottpeper13]

When going into bottles that soon I like to cold crash for 2-3 days so there is less sediment in the bottles.

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah, I like to give the beer 3-7 days after FG is reached to settle out clear or slightly misty before bottling. Minimizes the amount of trub that makes it into the bottling bucket, let alone the bottles themselves.

 

[rwinzing]

I think this point can't be made enough. Just because the book says two weeks make sure it is done fermentation. Like said above take multiple readings two days apart. If you don't there is always a chance that your bottles will explode and that is no fun. Big mess no beer.

 

[Hedley]

Cheers all. Ta especially for point about waiting until fermentation is complete. I am guessing it is okay to leave in primary until then yes?

 

[Calder]

Yes, it is OK to leave in primary for 2 weeks, or even longer if necessary.

Brew, put in fermenter and leave alone. Obviously, the more times you open the fermenter after active fermentation is finished will increase the chance of infection. The real enemy being actobacter (vinegar) which likes alcohol and Oxygen.

You may be fine, but half a gallon is not much head-space, watch out for a potential blow-off. Place the fermenter in a place that you can clean up if it gets too active (not on a carpet).

I never take multiple FG readings. I agree with the theory to ensure you have a constant reading to confirm activity is complete, but to me it is extra effort, adds another chance for contamination, and a waste of beer. When I am ready to bottle, I take my FG reading, and if it is where I am expecting it to be (or where the recipe says it should be), then I bottle. If not, then I leave it a week before bottling. Oh, and drink the sample, don't return it to the fermenter.

You might want to think about using a bottling bucket, rather than straight into bottles. You have less risk of disturbing the sediment, and you can mix the priming sugar in it too.

Good luck with the beer.

 

[dkeller12]

Cheers all. Ta especially for point about waiting until fermentation is complete. I am guessing it is okay to leave in primary until then yes?

I leave mine in primary for 4 weeks before bottling, and again, as others have stated, make sure your gravity readings are stable over a couple days before any bottling happens.

 

[Hedley]

Cheers all!

I am having my kitchen ripped out in the middle of the brewing process. Would it be okay to leave the beer in primary for 6 weeks, or is that pushing it?

Ross

 

[ACbrewer]

Cheers all!

I am having my kitchen ripped out in the middle of the brewing process. Would it be okay to leave the beer in primary for 6 weeks, or is that pushing it?

Ross

I've gone 2 months in the primary with a beer. Mostly lazy. It should be fine. There are warnings about problems with the yeast, but those are 1 Temp and 2 pressure sensitive, like the sort of pressure you get with a 30 barrel fermenter.

It would be better if you could rack/bottle sooner, but you should be good at 2 months.

 

[Hedley]

Thanks ACbrewer,

Hmm. I think I may wait until kitchen is fitted. Primary is only plastic and I may as well wait a few weeks until conditions are right for my first attempt.

Ross

 

[HB_in_Subic]

I agree with ACbrewer.. I have let some batches sit for 8 weeks (longest was 9) without issue. Those batches usually turned out to be the best. I let my beer sit for a minimum of 3 weeks in the primary. If an IPA, I dry hop at 3 weeks minimum in primary and bottle 7-10 days later.

When you rush things is when you get into trouble (bottle bombs, green beer, etc.). As long as the beer is at optimum yeast temperatures you do not have to worry about it sitting there.

 

[RM-MN]

Cheers all. Ta especially for point about waiting until fermentation is complete. I am guessing it is okay to leave in primary until then yes?

You can leave it in the primary for 2 or 3 months without any worries. I'll bet you don't have the patience to leave it too long.