Rivercat96
Well-Known Member
After 4+ years of extract brewing I finally took the step of all-grain and am glad I did. If there are any extract or mini-mash brewers out there who are sitting on the fence I'd like to say that BIAB made the transition to all-grain really simple, fun, and easy, I honestly felt like I was cheating a bit and I'm sure some of the brewers out there would agree.
Here's my recipe that I created with a beer calculator on Hopville's website: http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe. I wanted to create a amber/red ale that had a nice balanced hop and roasted malt profile that wasn't too sweet.
8 lbs. 2 row pale malt
12 oz. Crystal 60
6 oz. Munich
4 oz. Crystal 120
(Grain was double ground at LHBS)
1 oz. Willamette (75 min.)
1 oz. Willamette ( 15 min.)
2 tsp. Irish Moss (10 min.)
Wyeast American Ale 1056
Boil volume 7 gal, batch volume 5.25 gal.
75 min mash at 152ish with stirring every 15 min, 10 min mashout at 170ish with constant stirring before bag was pulled and drained into a colander with bowl underneath. I squeezed the bag pretty good and got most of the wort out of it. I did a 90 min boil after reading an article on BIAB from one of the Australian pioneers of the technique.
Hopville said my O.G. should have been 1.044 with 70% efficiency and a F.G. of 1.011. I just brewed this yesterday so I don't know the F.G. but the O.G. after boiling and cooling was 1.050! I think I got a hair over 5 gallons into my fermenter so I'm guessing that if I had 5.25 my O.G. would of still been in the high 1.040's. That's somewhere in the ball park of 75% efficiency I believe. This is still new for me so I may have made an error somewhere with the calcs. If I'm right on that would be a very respectable efficiency for a first all-grain w/ BIAB.
I boiled my tap water before the mash for 10 min to off gas any chlorine and that was about it for water preparation, didn't pH, no gypsum, nada. I have good water from the Sierra Nevada's that's pumped out of Folsom Lake. I checked for conversion with some idophor after the mashout and didn't see any dark blues or black colors. That was the exciting/nerve racking step. Purchased an extra large nylon grain bag from the LHBS in Folsom and that held up pretty well, I pulled the bag out very carefully after the mash and hoped it held up. Placed a stainless steel colander on the bottom of my keggle to keep the bag off the bottom during the mash. I'll let everyone know what my F.G. is in a couple weeks. BIAB kicks ass and the efficiency was much higher than I planned!
Here's my recipe that I created with a beer calculator on Hopville's website: http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe. I wanted to create a amber/red ale that had a nice balanced hop and roasted malt profile that wasn't too sweet.
8 lbs. 2 row pale malt
12 oz. Crystal 60
6 oz. Munich
4 oz. Crystal 120
(Grain was double ground at LHBS)
1 oz. Willamette (75 min.)
1 oz. Willamette ( 15 min.)
2 tsp. Irish Moss (10 min.)
Wyeast American Ale 1056
Boil volume 7 gal, batch volume 5.25 gal.
75 min mash at 152ish with stirring every 15 min, 10 min mashout at 170ish with constant stirring before bag was pulled and drained into a colander with bowl underneath. I squeezed the bag pretty good and got most of the wort out of it. I did a 90 min boil after reading an article on BIAB from one of the Australian pioneers of the technique.
Hopville said my O.G. should have been 1.044 with 70% efficiency and a F.G. of 1.011. I just brewed this yesterday so I don't know the F.G. but the O.G. after boiling and cooling was 1.050! I think I got a hair over 5 gallons into my fermenter so I'm guessing that if I had 5.25 my O.G. would of still been in the high 1.040's. That's somewhere in the ball park of 75% efficiency I believe. This is still new for me so I may have made an error somewhere with the calcs. If I'm right on that would be a very respectable efficiency for a first all-grain w/ BIAB.
I boiled my tap water before the mash for 10 min to off gas any chlorine and that was about it for water preparation, didn't pH, no gypsum, nada. I have good water from the Sierra Nevada's that's pumped out of Folsom Lake. I checked for conversion with some idophor after the mashout and didn't see any dark blues or black colors. That was the exciting/nerve racking step. Purchased an extra large nylon grain bag from the LHBS in Folsom and that held up pretty well, I pulled the bag out very carefully after the mash and hoped it held up. Placed a stainless steel colander on the bottom of my keggle to keep the bag off the bottom during the mash. I'll let everyone know what my F.G. is in a couple weeks. BIAB kicks ass and the efficiency was much higher than I planned!