First AG using BIAB was a success!

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MyAlement

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Hello! First, I want to thank everyone here for all of the great information. I did my second batch last night, an AG Anchor Porter clone using BIAB method. It really couldn't have been much easier. To give credit where it is due, I used a similar BIAB set up as Seven's BIAB in the sticky thread, minus the fancy kettle, lol. I decided awhile back to do 2.5 gallon batches so I could brew a lot of different recipes. This is a no-sparge full volume mashing.

My set up is a 5 gallon SS pot with propane burner, a SS strainer that fits into the pot, two 5 gallon buckets, two 5 gallon paint straining bags from Lowe's (~ $4), a pulley system, a blanket and your basic brew kit items. The SS strainer goes into the pot to keep the bag off of the bottom of the pot.

I used one bucket as my sanitation station. I put the siphon hose, 1 strainer bag, and the usual stuff that touches wort after boil in the sanitizer bucket. I put the other strainer bag in the second bucket and put my grains in the bag. This was an easy way to hold my grains while the water was heating up.

When the water hit strike temp, I killed the heat and put the grain bag in the pot. The elastic band on the strain bag secured it to the pot perfectly. I mixed the grains well, put the lid on the pot, wrapped it in a blanket for the mashing process. Afterwards, I used the pulley system to pull the grain bag out of the pot. It was easy to tie off the rope and let the bag drain into the pot with some manual work to squeeze the bag. At this point you can fish out the strainer if you want. I then added the hops to the wort per the schedule for the boil process.

I boiled the wort and chilled it using an ice bath. I emptied my sanitation bucket and put the sanitized strainer bag in the bucket to strain the wort. I transferred the wort from the pot to the bucket, using the strainer bag to help aerate the wort. After seeing how well the strainer bag contained the particles, I ended up dumping the whole pot in the bucket. I then pulled out the strainer bag. It caught nearly all of the hops and other particles, leaving a beautiful wort behind. I then pitched the yeast from my starter (1 liter using DME) and put the lid with an airlock on the bucket. That's it! Oh yeah, I'm using an ice chest with a water bath and frozen 1 liter water bottles to regulate fermentation temps. So far, it's holding in the mid 60's pretty well.

I didn't measure my volumes after mashing, so I don't have an accurate efficiency number. However, I did hit my OG within .004. I used some of the available calcuations for strike temp, grain absorption, boil-off, etc to come up with my volume and temperature numbers. Thanks to everyone for providing great information and tips on the forums. I can't seem to write a short post, so I apologize for the length of this one. Hopefully it helps someone who's looking into AG on the cheap.
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. Things I have learned after BIAB brews. Squeeze the bag your efficiency will go up and taste better. I do the pulley system and bought a pair of "heat Gel" glove and squeeze bag after it has dripped.

You can not stir the grain enough. I have a 10 gallon pot but stir the grains every 15 minutes. Temp stays within range. If it goes below I just turn the heat on for a couple of minutes.
 
The porter turned out great for my second batch. It tastes pretty good, though I note a slight skunky smell. The beer doesn't have much head retention, but is carbonated well for a porter. I suspect the second paint strainer bag my have pulled too much protein out of the wort. Next time I will skip that step. My fermentation temperature control could be better, but I'm limited in my setup. Maybe Santa will be good to me this year.

My next batch will be a Dubbel.
 
I bottle-conditioned the beer, in case anyone was wondering. I conditioned for two weeks before sampling.
 
Give that porter another 8 weeks and sample it again. I'll bet the "skunky" odor is gone and the head retention is better too. Give it another sample in 2 more weeks and I'll bet it will be great. Porters don't mature in just 2 weeks.
 
Give that porter another 8 weeks and sample it again. I'll bet the "skunky" odor is gone and the head retention is better too. Give it another sample in 2 more weeks and I'll bet it will be great. Porters don't mature in just 2 weeks.

Agreed. Be patient.

My Two Hearted clone was kind of harsh t first. I'm impatient and have to sample before its ready. They are pretty darn good now many weeks later.
 
flipfloptan said:
Sounds like you are on the right track. Things I have learned after BIAB brews. Squeeze the bag your efficiency will go up and taste better. I do the pulley system and bought a pair of "heat Gel" glove and squeeze bag after it has dripped.

You can not stir the grain enough. I have a 10 gallon pot but stir the grains every 15 minutes. Temp stays within range. If it goes below I just turn the heat on for a couple of minutes.

FYI, I've heard squeezing a BIAB to try and get the last drops out it's a bad idea. Something to the effect of it forcing tannins out of the grain that wouldn't normally be extracted. Perhaps sitting the grainbag in a spaghetti strainer over the pot for some time to drain may be a good idea.

I've never done the BIAB method, so I can't speak from experience. But there was some discussion in another thread on if it was ok to squeeze a hop spider bag for the same reason (which everyone seemed to agree isn't an issue, due to no undesirables in hops).
 
FYI, I've heard squeezing a BIAB to try and get the last drops out it's a bad idea. Something to the effect of it forcing tannins out of the grain that wouldn't normally be extracted. Perhaps sitting the grainbag in a spaghetti strainer over the pot for some time to drain may be a good idea.

I've never done the BIAB method, so I can't speak from experience. But there was some discussion in another thread on if it was ok to squeeze a hop spider bag for the same reason (which everyone seemed to agree isn't an issue, due to no undesirables in hops).

I was thinking along the same lines. Its subjective. Some people like the extra flavors. I like reds with a lot of flavor. I'd try it at least once.
 
I've heard the opposite - that squeezing the grain bag in BIAB is perfectly fine, and in fact is usually recommended.

Take a listen to this podcast if interested - Brad Smith from BeerSmith put it on with a leading BIAB guy from Austraulia - pretty informative: Brew in a bag: Down Under
 
FYI, I've heard squeezing a BIAB to try and get the last drops out it's a bad idea. Something to the effect of it forcing tannins out of the grain that wouldn't normally be extracted. Perhaps sitting the grainbag in a spaghetti strainer over the pot for some time to drain may be a good idea.

If you can squeeze hard enough to extract tannins, I'll hire you for a portable vice grip clamp.

There are two conditions to extract tannins from the husks of barley or other grains. First is too high of pH. If your wort is acidic as it usually is when you have added grains you cannot extract tannins no matter how hard you squeeze.

The second condition is wort temperature over 170 F. If the grain bag doesn't burn your bare hand, you cannot extract tannin.

Both conditions have to be met at the same time. That's why people who do decoction mashing don't have a problem with tannins even though they heat part of the mash to boiling. Their mash is too acidic to extract tannins.
 
Quick update on the porter...

I found a bottle of porter in my beer closet and cracked it open after 5 months. It was absolutely delicious! The texture was great, head retention good, no off flavors. The only thing I could find to critique was a very slight aroma that I still haven't been able to pinpoint. I wish I would have 1. brewed 5 gallons; and 2, kept 24 of them aging until now.

Since this batch, I brewed the dubbel using this same process, for the most part. I ended up leaving it in primary for 6 weeks due to lack of time for bottling. I'm not too worried, the sample tasted great. I'll probably crack one open every two weeks to document the changes over time.

I also brewed an oatmeal stout this past weekend. This time, it was a 5 gallon mini mash kit where I did a partial boil and late extract addition. Not even going to go into the details because I probably won't be doing it again (unless the beer comes out amazing, maybe).

The moral of the story is from now on, I will not rush to bottle and not rush the bottle conditioning of my ales. Just give the yeasties some time and they can work magic cleaning up less-than-perfect technique.
 
Wow what a great post, these AG techniques makes me even more confident that I can do it. I'm so new that I got the fresh car smell. But I figure if I read the stickies and the threads like this I can make it happen.
 
For AG, if you do one thing, it should be to walk through your brew day and write a detailed procedure ahead of time. The directions that come with kits are most likely junk, out of date, or over-simplified, IMO. If you use a technique on the forum, write it down, walk through it, and modify where necessary. Ultimately, you will deviate somewhere, but remember that some of the greatest creations by humans were the result of accidents.
 
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