Fermentrack: Fermentation monitoring & BrewPi-www Replacement for Raspberry Pi

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Anyone out there with some massive log files (and hopefully, a massive backup file) mind sending me a copy for me to use when testing... something....?

I tend to delete logs once I've finished fermenting, apparently.
 
So after you posted in my thread about the glycol chiller, I'm looking into Fermentrack. It installed easily in a LXC, and linking an iSpindel to it (even one running the Gravitymon firmware) was straightforward enough. So now the question becomes how to control the pump itself.

The pumps are integrated into the Icemaster Max 4, so the easy answer of using a Kasa smart plug won't really work--I'll need to find the power wire to the pump in question and use a relay to switch it*. Is it known whether the Sonoff THR316/320 devices will work? It seems they're ESP-32S-based, they include a relay, and they'll also connect to a DB18B20 temp sensor. Sonoff POW Origin 16Amp (POWR316) | devices.esphome.io suggests that the relay is controlled by GPIO pin 13. I have a couple of them on the way anyway, but it'd be good to have an idea before they get here.

*I guess I could wire in a power cord directly to the pump, and then use the smart plug, but I'm trying to minimize any modifications to the chiller unit.
 
I don't own an Icemaster Max 4, but I am fairly certain that it uses 4x STC1000 for temperature control which use a 10K NTC probe for temperature readings. Based on previous postings on HBT, people have had success replacing the probes with these which have the resistance characteristics that can be seen on table 3 of this spec sheet. If so, you could basically transform the STC1000 into a switch by setting the thermostat to 65F and toggling between a 35k resistor and a 5k resistor (which the thermostat would interpret as being ~32F and ~104F).

There are a couple of ways to do this that I can think of - but here is what I am envisioning:


NTC Magic Box.jpg

This would allow you to make 0 electrical modifications to the gylcol chiller.
 
I don't think the current models use STC1000s (unless the STC1000 has been updated to work in both °F and °C, and to control both heating and cooling), though they seem similar. But a few minutes with a DMM and one of the probes suggests that they have similar characteristics, so the same approach would seem viable. So what I'd need, minimally, would be a ESP32 (I have a few of those), an opto isolator, a couple of resistors (I have lots of those), and a barrel plug of the correct size (which I'd eyeball at 5521). Probably would be good to have a small PCB made up, though I'm sure it isn't strictly necessary (though it might be small enough that OSHPark would be economical).

So with this arrangement, the iSpindel acts as the temp probe, and based on what it reads, Fermentrack toggles the output of the ESP on/off to maintain the desired temperature in the beer. How often, then, does that have the iSpindel reporting? Because the 15-minute interval it's using with Brewfather would seem entirely too long to allow any sort of decent temp control.
 
No - not for Fermentrack/BrewPi-ESP at least, and for the reason you cite. If you had a Tilt (pro, preferably) you could use that as it broadcasts a temperature in fractional degrees F every 0.8 seconds, but the long polling rate on the iSpindel scares me.

If you have a thermowell then you could use that with a DS18b20 wired sensor, of course. There’s not currently another wireless option, but if anyone wants to collaborate on one I’d be open to it.
 
OK, that makes sense. I don't have a Tilt (maybe some day--though this makes it somewhat more interesting), but I do have a thermowell in the fermenter.

So I need an ESP32 and a DS18B20. Can I just flash the firmware onto the Sonoff THR316? Or do I need to have some PCBs made from thorrak_hardware/ESP32 BrewPi Boards at master · thorrak/thorrak_hardware and thorrak_hardware/BrewPi Sensor Boards at master · thorrak/thorrak_hardware and go from there?

Edit: and is the Tilt Pro really that much better? The only differences I'm seeing are "longer battery life" and "better antenna."
 
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I'm still running that beta @Thorrak made for me on the s2 that fixed the I2c screen address issue. Initial testing it seemed to be fixed as it stayed stable for a while a couple days or so cant remember how long i left the water in there testing. But after that test I didn't unplug it but just left temp control off and is had stayed connected and screen working for the last few weeks. I finally got around to brewing a batch and I have it currently fermenting a lager at 55 degrees in beer constant mode. It seemed stable until I looked today about 2 days into my fermentation it wasn't connected to fermentrack and the screen I found frozen again with the backlight off. Its definitely way more stable than before but I think there might be another bug or demon lurking somewhere in there perhaps that only is an issue when controlling a beer?
 
Since my last reset the controller has been fine controlling. It’s lost connection with the server and I imagine a reset of fermentrack would fix it. However, I’ve just let it rock to see what it would do. It’s been continuing to control the beer as expected. So perhaps that bug with the unable to connect to script is still prevalent. Also curiously I have tried to experiment with push targets to Brewfather. I find it strange I’m getting different values in fermentrack and what’s pushed to Brewfather. It’s not sending the temperature at all and is sending an arbitrary gravity of 1.004 e which doesn’t match what is being published to fermentrack at all?

***edit it's not controlling the beer as expected rather it is holding the beer at the last temperature setpoint and is actually supposed to be ramping up the temperature for a diacytl rest. Its just stuck holding a temp in the middle of that ramp up where it was when the connection to the server was lost. Rebooted the controller and it didn't connect to fermentrack without me rebooting the fermentrack server.
 
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Ive had the s2mini freeze a third time this time in the middle of cooling with the relay stuck on. I have swapped out the board for a esp8266 d1 mini to hopefully have some stability back as well as see if its something goofy with my setup or if there is still a bug on the s2 mini.
 
First - apologies for the silence from my side for the past few weeks. I’ve had a lot going on, and have had to focus my attention on non-brewing-related projects for a bit. Mostly good stuff, just all demanding loads of time.

OK, that makes sense. I don't have a Tilt (maybe some day--though this makes it somewhat more interesting), but I do have a thermowell in the fermenter.

So I need an ESP32 and a DS18B20. Can I just flash the firmware onto the Sonoff THR316? Or do I need to have some PCBs made from thorrak_hardware/ESP32 BrewPi Boards at master · thorrak/thorrak_hardware and thorrak_hardware/BrewPi Sensor Boards at master · thorrak/thorrak_hardware and go from there?

Edit: and is the Tilt Pro really that much better? The only differences I'm seeing are "longer battery life" and "better antenna."

You might be able to use the Sonoff, but the pinout is different vs my PCBs, so you would have to compile a custom version of the firmware to get it to work. As I recall, the Sonoff only has one temperature sensor wired to it as well — you would need to set something up to get it to be able to use multiple. I think it is based on the ESP8266 as well, so a Tilt isn’t an option for a second sensor.

The Tilt Pro offers temperature resolution in fractional degrees which helps for this application. It’s hard to hold a beer to a fraction of a degree Fahrenheit when you can’t see fractional degrees. 😉

Ive had the s2mini freeze a third time this time in the middle of cooling with the relay stuck on. I have swapped out the board for a esp8266 d1 mini to hopefully have some stability back as well as see if its something goofy with my setup or if there is still a bug on the s2 mini.

Were you running the latest firmware? The most recent release (v15c) was solid in testing — it seemed like there was some kind of issue with the Espressif framework with earlier versions that caused it to crash in strange places.

Instability in BrewPi-Script is incredibly frustrating at this point, as most of the changes I would seek have been implemented.

I’m working on a more permanent replacement, but that requires a rebuild of huge chunks of architecture. It’s coming, but it’s likely a few months away.
 
As I recall, the Sonoff only has one temperature sensor wired to it as well — you would need to set something up to get it to be able to use multiple. I think it is based on the ESP8266 as well
My understanding is that the Sonoff units in question are based on the ESP32, not the 8266. But yes, it does have only the one sensor wired to it. I'm sure others could be added (it's still a 18b20, so still uses the Onewire interface), but that'd be kind of hacky.
The Tilt Pro offers temperature resolution in fractional degrees which helps for this application.
I'd missed that earlier; that would indeed seem to be helpful. Pity they're so pricey.
 
My understanding is that the Sonoff units in question are based on the ESP32, not the 8266. But yes, it does have only the one sensor wired to it. I'm sure others could be added (it's still a 18b20, so still uses the Onewire interface), but that'd be kind of hacky.

I'd missed that earlier; that would indeed seem to be helpful. Pity they're so pricey.

Interesting! I thought the original units were based on the ESP8266 and didn't expect them to upgrade. If they have, that's a pretty compelling product! (Wired) fridge temp sensor + Tilt as an alternative to a full build -- at least until the Inkbird support can be re-added. ;)
 
First - apologies for the silence from my side for the past few weeks. I’ve had a lot going on, and have had to focus my attention on non-brewing-related projects for a bit. Mostly good stuff, just all demanding loads of time.



You might be able to use the Sonoff, but the pinout is different vs my PCBs, so you would have to compile a custom version of the firmware to get it to work. As I recall, the Sonoff only has one temperature sensor wired to it as well — you would need to set something up to get it to be able to use multiple. I think it is based on the ESP8266 as well, so a Tilt isn’t an option for a second sensor.

The Tilt Pro offers temperature resolution in fractional degrees which helps for this application. It’s hard to hold a beer to a fraction of a degree Fahrenheit when you can’t see fractional degrees. 😉



Were you running the latest firmware? The most recent release (v15c) was solid in testing — it seemed like there was some kind of issue with the Espressif framework with earlier versions that caused it to crash in strange places.

Instability in BrewPi-Script is incredibly frustrating at this point, as most of the changes I would seek have been implemented.

I’m working on a more permanent replacement, but that requires a rebuild of huge chunks of architecture. It’s coming, but it’s likely a few months away.
Well I'm running that latest beta that you made for the s2 mini a couple of weeks ago when we were troubleshooting the i2c screen thing together. Is that the same as the changes that were rolled into the latest stable version? Since I switched to the D1 mini its been stable so its definitely something with the s2 mini.
 
Well I'm running that latest beta that you made for the s2 mini a couple of weeks ago when we were troubleshooting the i2c screen thing together. Is that the same as the changes that were rolled into the latest stable version? Since I switched to the D1 mini its been stable so its definitely something with the s2 mini.
I honestly don't recall what was in (which) beta vs. the release. I do know that the release had been running for at least a week+ without issue while I had it hooked up to the debugging interface.

The D1 Mini should work fine as well. The biggest issue with it is just the frustration that I have when trying to compile for it, so there is no guarantee of future features. ;)
 
I honestly don't recall what was in (which) beta vs. the release. I do know that the release had been running for at least a week+ without issue while I had it hooked up to the debugging interface.

The D1 Mini should work fine as well. The biggest issue with it is just the frustration that I have when trying to compile for it, so there is no guarantee of future features. ;)
Thanks man! I'll definitely load up the S2 with the new firmware and throw it through the ringer with some water when this beer is in the keg lol I hear ya not enough memory on the D1 every time I use one in a project I cant sloppily allocate memory like I normally do for ease and convenience lol
 
There are a couple of ways to do this that I can think of - but here is what I am envisioning:


NTC Magic Box.jpg
For the sake of anyone else who might want to try this:
  • The size of the temp sensor jack on the Icemaster Max 4 (and, I'm sure, on the Max 2) is indeed 5521--5.5mm OD, 2.1mm ID
  • With resistor values of 33k and 8k2 (based in part on what I had at hand), my controllers read 25°F on the low side, and 95°F on the high side
  • With the temp controller on one of my pumps set to 68°F, these values are plenty high (and low) to turn the pump on and off promptly--though I guess 60°F would be the midpoint
  • Testing with my DMM in diode test mode to turn the optocoupler (I'm using a PC817, which are super cheap on Amazon) on/off does have the expected results on the pump--power on to the optocoupler turns the pump on
  • Given this, you'd want to set this pin's control mode to not inverted
  • According to an EE friend of mine, you should incorporate a current-limiting resistor in series between the relay pin on the ESP and the input to the optocoupler--his math came up with about 100R for that
This circuit is simple enough that it could easily be done on a breadboard, but PCBs make everything neater. It's small enough that three of them from oshpark.com are only $2 shipped, though of course you'll wait for a while to see them.
 
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Oh wow - that’s… interesting looking!

Behind the scenes, you have a webserver (Nginx) that both processes requests for the web app (Fermentrack) and serves static files upon request. Looking at that screenshot I would guess that Nginx is having issues of some sort and is failing to serve the static files as a result (the "{{ sensor.device_name }}" in particular means that Vue.js isn't loaded).

Unfortunately, I don't know that there is much that can be done remotely to resolve this or explore further. Nginx is the likely culprit, so we'd need to check its logs (or the resource usage on the Pi) but neither of those are exposed by default.
I'm back and would like to understand what is going on here. Can you point me where to look to see what is going wrong? I'm not seeing anything in /var/log, which is where Google seems to think NGINX will put it's logs.
 
I'm back and would like to understand what is going on here. Can you point me where to look to see what is going wrong? I'm not seeing anything in /var/log, which is where Google seems to think NGINX will put it's logs.
So the root problem seems to have been a poor choice of power supply (a 5W iPhone cube) for the Raspberry Pi. I swapped it for a 10W iPad charger and it seems to be working, although the RPI is still giving me undervoltage warnings in syslog. I probably have an official RPI PSU somewhere, but can't put my hands on it immediately.

I would still like some guidance on getting access to the application error log(s).
 
Looks like a premature observation.
The Arduino/timer seems to reset when the Pi powers up and links but it was a one off. 5 hours stable now :rock:View attachment 643900

[short version]
Does the controllers access point now require a password and if so what its it!]



[Long version]
With just over 4 years of pretty much 24/7 use my original build (above) is starting to get a little unreliable.
This was an undockered installation of Fermentrack running with multiple WiFi ESP8266s

Having seen this a (much overdue) opportunity to upgrade I thought I'd get that sorted today as I'm an old hand at this now (right?)

It would seem I was overambitious!

New PiOS loaded
New dockerised (is that a word?) version of Fermentrack loaded and set up
Used Fermentrack to flash ESP8266 with latest (version 15c) WiFi version of the controller firmware
Setup the controller, wait, what? Why is the access point asking me for a Password?

Read the Fermentrack documentation - no nothing about the access point having a password there
Did some Google searching - came up dry
Check the log of the log of the flash (seems good, as below)
Tried another ESP8266 board with a fresh flash - same thing - the access point seems to be asking for a password
Tried the obvious (Password, password, BrewPi, Brewpi, brewpi...)

Any help appreciated
1000026831.jpg


Flash Command: esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 write_flash 0x00000 /app/firmware_flash/firmware/ESP8266 - BrewPi-ESP8266 - vv15cr -- WiFi - firmware.bin 0x300000 /app/firmware_flash/firmware/ESP8266 - BrewPi-ESP8266 - vv15cr -- WiFi - spiffs.bin

esptool.py v2.8
Serial port /dev/ttyUSB0
Connecting....
Detecting chip type... ESP8266
Chip is ESP8266EX
Features: WiFi
Crystal is 26MHz
MAC: a4:cf:12:dd:6c:57
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Configuring flash size...
Auto-detected Flash size: 4MB
Compressed 490480 bytes to 340364...

Writing at 0x00000000... (4 %)
Writing at 0x00004000... (9 %)
Writing at 0x00008000... (14 %)
Writing at 0x0000c000... (19 %)
Writing at 0x00010000... (23 %)
Writing at 0x00014000... (28 %)
Writing at 0x00018000... (33 %)
Writing at 0x0001c000... (38 %)
Writing at 0x00020000... (42 %)
Writing at 0x00024000... (47 %)
Writing at 0x00028000... (52 %)
Writing at 0x0002c000... (57 %)
Writing at 0x00030000... (61 %)
Writing at 0x00034000... (66 %)
Writing at 0x00038000... (71 %)
Writing at 0x0003c000... (76 %)
Writing at 0x00040000... (80 %)
Writing at 0x00044000... (85 %)
Writing at 0x00048000... (90 %)
Writing at 0x0004c000... (95 %)
Writing at 0x00050000... (100 %)
Wrote 490480 bytes (340364 compressed) at 0x00000000 in 30.4 seconds (effective 129.2 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 1024000 bytes to 130681...

Writing at 0x00300000... (12 %)
Writing at 0x00304000... (25 %)
Writing at 0x00308000... (37 %)
Writing at 0x0030c000... (50 %)
Writing at 0x00310000... (62 %)
Writing at 0x00314000... (75 %)
Writing at 0x00318000... (87 %)
Writing at 0x0031c000... (100 %)
Wrote 1024000 bytes (130681 compressed) at 0x00300000 in 12.1 seconds (effective 674.9 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.

Leaving...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...
 
Nothing but love from me @Thorrak - appreciate all that you do :mug:
Thanks! I went ahead and yolo-merged from my phone, since after thinking about it I’m pretty sure the dangerous bits I was worrying about only happen when I create a release. I hope. We’ll soon find out. ;)

Thanks again for mentioning this, and thanks again @danb35 for the PR.
 
I'm running brewpi-esp32 + fermentrack. Hardware wise I have a esp32 with a sensor board + 3x waterproof probes from microcenter https://www.microcenter.com/product...rproof-temperature-sensor-47k-resistor-(3pcs)

Everything has been working great until 2 days ago, the temp readings cut out and the freezer stops cycling since the controller can't get a temp reading. I tried resetting the brewpi-esp32, replacing the rj45 cable, I visually inspected the sensor board and I don't see any shorts or issues with the probe wiring. After doing all this my sensors were detected again in brewpi. Now again tonight I'm not getting any temp readings so my freezer is off. Any tips on how to troubleshoot this?

Would it be more reliable to switch to a inkbird wireless temp sensor? I went with the wired sensors thinking they would be more reliable. Is it possible a temp probe has failed can causing issues? Is there a way to test connection from the esp32 to the remote sensor board, I guess I could short the door pin to see if that works.

lucky things started acting up after fermentation so the freezer is just keeping my beer cold. I would hate for this to happen during active fermentation. For some reason both times it stopped working was at night around 10-11pm, not sure if temperature has to do with it.
 
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I'm running brewpi-esp32 + fermentrack. Hardware wise I have a esp32 with a sensor board + 3x waterproof probes from microcenter https://www.microcenter.com/product...rproof-temperature-sensor-47k-resistor-(3pcs)

Everything has been working great until 2 days ago, the temp readings cut out and the freezer stops cycling since the controller can't get a temp reading. I tried resetting the brewpi-esp32, replacing the rj45 cable, I visually inspected the sensor board and I don't see any shorts or issues with the probe wiring. After doing all this my sensors were detected again in brewpi. Now again tonight I'm not getting any temp readings so my freezer is off. Any tips on how to troubleshoot this?

Would it be more reliable to switch to a inkbird wireless temp sensor? I went with the wired sensors thinking they would be more reliable. Is it possible a temp probe has failed can causing issues? Is there a way to test connection from the esp32 to the remote sensor board, I guess I could short the door pin to see if that works.

lucky things started acting up after fermentation so the freezer is just keeping my beer cold. I would hate for this to happen during active fermentation. For some reason both times it stopped working was at night around 10-11pm, not sure if temperature has to do with it.

To me, the two most likely culprits are that (at least) one of the sensors is bad, or there is an issue with the power supply to your controller. To test the power supply, if you have a different (hopefully, better) power supply available you could try swapping to that and see if that eliminates the issue. Testing the sensors is difficult given the fact pattern you describe, but here are some questions that might help to narrow it down:

  • When you report that the "temp readings cut out", do all 2 (3?) temp readings cut out, or just the fridge/beer?
  • When the temp readings cut out, do they stay out permanently, or do they sometimes come back without intervention?
  • If they require intervention, what kind of intervention is required? Just resetting the controller, or unseating/reseating the sensors as well?
  • Are you powering the sensors off 5v or 3v3? Have you tried switching the power level? (For my PCB designs, there's a jumper that selects this)

I will note that for the builds I've personally used at home, I've never had an issue with any of the sensors after the first ~day of use. If they have issues, they tend to manifest almost immediately -- what you're describing is quite strange!

The Inkbird sensor support was removed in later versions of v15, as Espressif currently has a bug that causes the bluetooth stack on ESP32 to fail after an indeterminate period of time when both Bluetooth active scanning and WiFi coexistence are enabled. I have a workaround designed for this bug, but it works by monitoring when any device hasn't been detected within a certain period of time, and assuming silence means the bluetooth stack has crashed and a device restart is required. Due to compressor protection, if this occurs frequently it can result in your beer not being properly chilled.

This bug supposedly is fixed in ESP-IDF v5.1 which comes alongside ESP32 Arduino v3. This version recently had its first alpha release, but has been under development for the past ~6 months, so my hope is that it's out soon.

The reason Tilt integration works is because it doesn't require Bluetooth active scanning. :)
 
To me, the two most likely culprits are that (at least) one of the sensors is bad, or there is an issue with the power supply to your controller. To test the power supply, if you have a different (hopefully, better) power supply available you could try swapping to that and see if that eliminates the issue. Testing the sensors is difficult given the fact pattern you describe, but here are some questions that might help to narrow it down:

  • When you report that the "temp readings cut out", do all 2 (3?) temp readings cut out, or just the fridge/beer?
  • When the temp readings cut out, do they stay out permanently, or do they sometimes come back without intervention?
  • If they require intervention, what kind of intervention is required? Just resetting the controller, or unseating/reseating the sensors as well?
  • Are you powering the sensors off 5v or 3v3? Have you tried switching the power level? (For my PCB designs, there's a jumper that selects this)

I will note that for the builds I've personally used at home, I've never had an issue with any of the sensors after the first ~day of use. If they have issues, they tend to manifest almost immediately -- what you're describing is quite strange!

The Inkbird sensor support was removed in later versions of v15, as Espressif currently has a bug that causes the bluetooth stack on ESP32 to fail after an indeterminate period of time when both Bluetooth active scanning and WiFi coexistence are enabled. I have a workaround designed for this bug, but it works by monitoring when any device hasn't been detected within a certain period of time, and assuming silence means the bluetooth stack has crashed and a device restart is required. Due to compressor protection, if this occurs frequently it can result in your beer not being properly chilled.

This bug supposedly is fixed in ESP-IDF v5.1 which comes alongside ESP32 Arduino v3. This version recently had its first alpha release, but has been under development for the past ~6 months, so my hope is that it's out soon.

The reason Tilt integration works is because it doesn't require Bluetooth active scanning. :)
The power supply is a 5v 2amp amazon fire stick usb wall adaptor. My fridge sensor first starting cutting out, then it was fridge and beer sensor and now all 3 won't read. I was able to get things working for about 24hr by plugging in a new ethernet cable, resetting the brewpi a few times and clearing everything. All 3 one wire sensors got detected, I swapped the fridge sensor with the room one. The next night it stopped reading temps again, beer and fridge which causses the fridge to stop cooling. I messed around with it again, poured a beer and came back 1 hr later. I put have somehow jammed my picnic tap open because all the beer leaked out of the keg and I could hear the co2 running. The remote sensor box was floating in beer. I cleaned everything today and all 3 sensors are no longer detected.

I wonder if there was a short that damaged the brewpi? I have to get the brewpi working before I can start my next fermentation, wanted to have homebrew for thanksgiving. I might have to order a cheap inkbird controller until I can get the brewpi working again.
 
The power supply is a 5v 2amp amazon fire stick usb wall adaptor. My fridge sensor first starting cutting out, then it was fridge and beer sensor and now all 3 won't read. I was able to get things working for about 24hr by plugging in a new ethernet cable, resetting the brewpi a few times and clearing everything. All 3 one wire sensors got detected, I swapped the fridge sensor with the room one. The next night it stopped reading temps again, beer and fridge which causses the fridge to stop cooling. I messed around with it again, poured a beer and came back 1 hr later. I put have somehow jammed my picnic tap open because all the beer leaked out of the keg and I could hear the co2 running. The remote sensor box was floating in beer. I cleaned everything today and all 3 sensors are no longer detected.

I wonder if there was a short that damaged the brewpi? I have to get the brewpi working before I can start my next fermentation, wanted to have homebrew for thanksgiving. I might have to order a cheap inkbird controller until I can get the brewpi working again.
It’s possible, but what you are describing sounds like there is an issue with the OneWire sensors.

Are you powering the sensors with 3v3 or 5V? If you are using my PCB this is the jumper. If you are currently using 3v3, I would try switching the jumper to 5V. Additionally, how long is the Ethernet cable you are using? Shorter cables are definitely the way to go, here!

As a second step, what I would do is try to desolder (or clip) the (former) fridge sensor from the data line (if that’s the one you think might be having issues) to see if having one fewer sensor helps. Room sensors aren’t necessary for the control algorithm to work, as long as the beer and fridge sensors work you should be OK.

Thinking about it, @day_trippr - would you recommend I add provisions for decoupling capacitors on the “sensor breakout” PCB for the power lines? Think that would help something like this? (I could add a footprint for the data line too, as a test to see if people can follow directions… ;) )
 
What is this image trying to tell me? Is this a temperature plot - and those are 0° temperature readings?

1699276490221.png


fwiw, I still run BrewPi "classic" on a fleet of RPi systems with UNO controllers using the shield I helped develop here, which provides a minimal level of decoupling on the power lines, and all with sets of full length 3 meter probes. I never have flakey behavior from any of them. I don't think there's a need for more than a 0.1uf cap near the connector(s) for the sensors - One-Wire sensors are actually pretty resilient to modest voltage noise levels.

I would want to see the actual log file from when that image was created...or an equivalent. There must be sensors disconnecting and reconnecting...

Cheers!
 
What is this image trying to tell me? Is this a temperature plot - and those are 0° temperature readings?

View attachment 833280

fwiw, I still run BrewPi "classic" on a fleet of RPi systems with UNO controllers using the shield I helped develop here, which provides a minimal level of decoupling on the power lines, and all with sets of full length 3 meter probes. I never have flakey behavior from any of them. I don't think there's a need for more than a 0.1uf cap near the connector(s) for the sensors - One-Wire sensors are actually pretty resilient to modest voltage noise levels.

I would want to see the actual log file from when that image was created...or an equivalent. There must be sensors disconnecting and reconnecting...

Cheers!
Do I have to find the logs in the file system running on the frementrack or is it accessible via the web interfaces?
 
It’s possible, but what you are describing sounds like there is an issue with the OneWire sensors.

Are you powering the sensors with 3v3 or 5V? If you are using my PCB this is the jumper. If you are currently using 3v3, I would try switching the jumper to 5V. Additionally, how long is the Ethernet cable you are using? Shorter cables are definitely the way to go, here!

As a second step, what I would do is try to desolder (or clip) the (former) fridge sensor from the data line (if that’s the one you think might be having issues) to see if having one fewer sensor helps. Room sensors aren’t necessary for the control algorithm to work, as long as the beer and fridge sensors work you should be OK.

Thinking about it, @day_trippr - would you recommend I add provisions for decoupling capacitors on the “sensor breakout” PCB for the power lines? Think that would help something like this? (I could add a footprint for the data line too, as a test to see if people can follow directions… ;) )
I clipped the fridge sensor and no change, still not reading any temps. I will open the main controller today and check the sensor voltage, when I was building the unit it only worked on 1 sensor voltage setting. Is there a way to test the temp probe I cut off with a multimeter?
 
Aside from a sensor with welded inputs (bt/dt - "It's dead, Jim") you won't find much about an ds18b20 that works even occasionally using a multimeter on its three wires.

I recommend providing 5VDC to ds18b20 VDD line, then - depending on what it's signal line is connected to - use a 2K pull-up resistor to 3.3V, or a 4.7K pull-up resistor to 5V. Generally RPi and ESPs use 3.3V signaling, while older Arduinos use 5V signaling...

Cheers!
 
Thinking about it, @day_trippr - would you recommend I add provisions for decoupling capacitors on the “sensor breakout” PCB for the power lines? Think that would help something like this? (I could add a footprint for the data line too, as a test to see if people can follow directions… ;) )

I always had weird issues until I put decoupling caps on power ingress points. Used a 1uF for 5v main and 0.1uF each for OneWire temp sensors, ESP8266 VCC, from the heat/cool relay signal lines out to a separate small board with some status LEDs that get flipped on by some transistors acting as signal inverters, etc. No issues since then.
 
I'm running into kind of an odd issue, and not sure whether it belongs to Fermentrack or to BrewPi-ESP. I started a fresh batch of beer Friday afternoon, my first actual beer using Fermentrack (I'd tested it with water, but not with actual beer). It's in a Fermzilla Tri-Conical, cooling by way of their Temp Twister and a glycol chiller. It also has a thermowell that's in contact with the cooling coil. Heat is provided by a 40W heat belt. I started by sensing the beer temp using a 18B20 in the thermowell, and I'm also using a Tilt Pro to track both temperature and gravity.

I noticed quite a discrepancy between what the Tilt was reporting (black line in the graph below), and what the thermowell sensor was reporting (yellow line).
1701028127337.png

Yesterday, I just unplugged the heater, and the temps came much closer together. Believing the Tilt to be the better reading of the beer temp, I went to Configure Sensors/Pins and told the controller to use the Tilt as the Beer temp sensor.

That's when the problem started. Since I made that change, whenever I try to go to Configure Sensors/Pins for that controller, I get this:
1701028288712.png

I've power-cycled the controller, and I've rebooted Fermentrack, but this persists. I'm able to browse to the controller itself, and there I can see that the Tilt is set as the beer temp sensor. But inside Fermentrack, I get that error.
 
I'm running into kind of an odd issue, and not sure whether it belongs to Fermentrack or to BrewPi-ESP. I started a fresh batch of beer Friday afternoon, my first actual beer using Fermentrack (I'd tested it with water, but not with actual beer). It's in a Fermzilla Tri-Conical, cooling by way of their Temp Twister and a glycol chiller. It also has a thermowell that's in contact with the cooling coil. Heat is provided by a 40W heat belt. I started by sensing the beer temp using a 18B20 in the thermowell, and I'm also using a Tilt Pro to track both temperature and gravity.

I noticed quite a discrepancy between what the Tilt was reporting (black line in the graph below), and what the thermowell sensor was reporting (yellow line).
View attachment 834884
Yesterday, I just unplugged the heater, and the temps came much closer together. Believing the Tilt to be the better reading of the beer temp, I went to Configure Sensors/Pins and told the controller to use the Tilt as the Beer temp sensor.

That's when the problem started. Since I made that change, whenever I try to go to Configure Sensors/Pins for that controller, I get this:
View attachment 834885
I've power-cycled the controller, and I've rebooted Fermentrack, but this persists. I'm able to browse to the controller itself, and there I can see that the Tilt is set as the beer temp sensor. But inside Fermentrack, I get that error.
What do the device logs say?
 
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