FAQ: Aluminum Pots for Boil Kettles?

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Don't worry about the lid and don't get too concerned about the pot either, just keep using it. The color will change all the time, especially when you brew a super hoppy IPA or an Imperial Stout, don't worry about it. Be more concerned with accurate mash temps, good notes (or Beersmith logs), cleanliness and sanitization, fermentation temps, good yeast starters and your beer will improve each batch you brew.

Don't think I'll be making any IPA's or anything high in the hop (or high IBU's), just not something I care for.

I already have a brew log book with notes for everything I've made (includes dates and gravity readings, as well as what I did to the recipe)... Now that I have Beer Smith, I'll also be making notes in that, and then printing the pages out to file (just in case I lose the electronic version)...

With good digital thermometers, timers, and such, I'm pretty sure I'll get the temps dialed-in... Sanitation is also covered since I have a constant bucket of Star San made (when I run low, I make a fresh 2.5 gallon batch)... The only wild card right now is the fermentation temps. Since it's winter, the temps tend to be a bit lower in the kitchen (where I ferment)... That's one of the reasons why I selected a yeast with a lower temperature tolerance (55-75F) for the next brew. It's not easy to keep the brews fermenting above 64-65F this time of year. By the time spring rolls around, though, I expect to have something set up to maintain optimal fermenting temps for what I have going. I also see a keezer in my future, in the living room actually... I think the living room will be a better location since that's where I spend more time (small 1 bedroom apartment) and it also means I can just roll the chair over to the taps. :D:drunk:

I might try a short conditioning run on the pot again before Sunday. If I don't get to it, I'm not overly concerned (now)... The coating is damned close to black on it... Wonder why it didn't do that in the oven...
 
I didn't read the whole thread so someone may have already mentioned this: Al is much easier to drill!!

Personally, I use SS keggles but if I had it to do over again I'd go with AL just to avoid the drilling for fittings.
 
daveaohio, I recently ordered a 40 qt. Al pot from instawares for about $63.00 (w/shipping). I really wanted to get SS, then decided to be more fiscally prudent (cheap). I went from hot water to boil in about 1 hr. on my electric stove. I didn't fully take into consideration how much bigger the new pot was. It wouldn't fit all the way down into my sink and 9 gals. of water (plus pot) is much heavier than it sounds. I made an AHS Guinness Foreign Extra stout clone. So far so good. Now my "regular" big pots seem tiny in comparison.
 
Now my "regular" big pots seem tiny in comparison.

Just wait until you get your first 15gal/60qt pot/kettle... :eek:

BTW, I would recommend fitting the pot with a ball valve... It makes things MUCH easier when moving the cooled wort into primary. Get a chiller, and you won't need to move the pot from the stove once you start the boil. :ban: The flow you get from just a 1/2" ball valve will make the reason for having one very clear the first time you use it. :D
 
Golddiggie, I started out with about 4.5 gals to boil. I normally (or used to, anyway) put the pot in the sink (most of the boil volumes have been about 3 gals...) and use the water that flows through the IC to help chill the outside of the pot as well. I just ordered 5 more kits from AHS, so it'll be awhile before I move up in volume. I'm starting to consider getting the materials together (pricing) for the move to A/G. My back hurts just thinking about it... Thanks, pete
 
Does anybody have any opinion of the King Kooker 50qt aluminum turkey fryer and burner kit that SamsClub is selling for $82 online? I've asked for that for my birthday.

It will actually fit in my kitchen sink. It's plenty big enough for 5 gallon batches that have a 7 gallon pre-boil. For $82, i just want to make sure it's not crappy. Here's the clicky:

King Kooker 50qt aluminum turkey fryer kit at Sams Club
 
Being thats a newer design you will ha e to fight with the.burner turning off due to a autotimer. I bought a new old stock 30qt buyou classic for 37 bucks at bed bath a monh ago. I love it. I did a 7g preboil to 5.5 post and it was fantastic. Id like the bigger pot but im very content and bc it was "old" design, tere was no auto timer. Love it!
 
Zokfend...

If you do purchase that unit, search the threads for others who have taken apart their new burners and removed the offending timers/temp sensors. I have seen at least two threads on that topic. Then, you can boil to your heart's content!

glenn514:mug:
 
picked up the 32 qt imusa aluminum from wally world for $24 and it rocks. heats quick and more importantly it cools quick in my ice bath.
 
for aluminum users, are you cleaning your pots with a soft non-abrasive sponge and just a little bit of dawn dish soap (and rinsing very thoroughly with hot water)?
 
I clean mine with my normal dish liquid on either a sponge or towel/rag... IF I need to apply more effort to clean gunk from it, I make sure to use a scrubbing sponge that's been used a LOT already, so it's not all that abrasive. I only use enough force to get the gunk off, and leave the oxide layer intact. Has worked out great so far...
 
Does anybody have any opinion of the King Kooker 50qt aluminum turkey fryer and burner kit that SamsClub is selling for $82 online? . . . . Here's the clicky:

King Kooker 50qt aluminum turkey fryer kit at Sams Club

FYI, i got this in the mail today. All over the box it says "Not to be used as a Turkey Fryer". I checked out the propane hose/connection, and there is no auto-timer knob, no sensor or wiring, nothing. So I am happy to say that the issue of periodic shut-off one thing I won't have to deal with.
 
I've been using one of each for at least 8 years (al. about 10 years). I've brewed the same batch in each and cannot tell a difference. The ss pot is easier to clean, but taste-wise, no difference. Aluminum is cheaper, so go with it.
 
avid, I'm just curious why you say SS is easier to clean. I'm not trying to shoot down what you said, but more to clarify for people who are on the fence. I'm using AL and all I do when I'm done with the boil is take a sponge with a plastic scrubby on one side and water from my IC and scrub the inside and out with the scrubby side and rinse. It doesn't get much easier than that, but I'd like to know if SS is actually easier than that. Again, not being a d bag nay sayer, but trying to clarify.
 
I'm just curious why you say SS is easier to clean.
Agree! Over the years, I've moved from aluminum to stainless. If anything, I'd say I spend more time cleaning the stainless. With the aluminum, I'd be sure to get all the debris off, but not be concerned with cosmetics. If it looks good you scrubbed too much. The stainless requires a little more elbow grease to return to its original shine.

At the end of the day, the only real advantage it stainless is appearance.
 
Agree! Over the years, I've moved from aluminum to stainless. If anything, I'd say I spend more time cleaning the stainless. With the aluminum, I'd be sure to get all the debris off, but not be concerned with cosmetics. If it looks good you scrubbed too much. The stainless requires a little more elbow grease to return to its original shine.

At the end of the day, the only real advantage it stainless is appearance.

The reason I think SS is easier to clean as compared to my aluminum pot is because the grit from boiling is more difficult to get off of my aluminum pot than my ss pot. I can pretty much just wipe my ss pot clean and all is well; I need to scrub a bit more with my aluminum pot. Really not a big deal, just what I've found.
 
Thanks for clarifying this. I recently inherited a huge 15 gallon old military style aluminum pot that would easily hold my batch sizes. I was leery of using it because of the above mentioned reasons. I will order a no-weld valve for it today!
 
i've been looking at 60 quart pots... anyone have experience putting a spigot in them?...i want to go biab, and draining from the bottom seems like the way to go... thx!
 
i've been looking at 60 quart pots... anyone have experience putting a spigot in them?...i want to go biab, and draining from the bottom seems like the way to go... thx!

I put a valve into a 60 quart aluminum pot already. You just need to test it before using it the first time to make sure it doesn't leak. I've found that using no washer outside works better for no leaks. :off:
 
I have a fifteen gallon aluminum and a fifteen gallon stainless kettles, the stainless I put a weldless S/S valve kit in, It's much heavier than the aluminum pot, can't say either way which one works better, both boil the same, If I had a weldless valve kit in My aluminum pot I'd probally use it more because it is much lighter. Also it's My crawfish pot too so I didn't want a hole in the side.:mug:
 
Zokfend said:
FYI, i got this in the mail today. All over the box it says "Not to be used as a Turkey Fryer". I checked out the propane hose/connection, and there is no auto-timer knob, no sensor or wiring, nothing. So I am happy to say that the issue of periodic shut-off one thing I won't have to deal with.

Does anyone know the inside diameter of the above mentioned 50 qt kettle? Need to know if my chiller will fit before i order.
 
i currently have a 10 gallon SS boil kettle and im looking to build an all grain rig. i was looking at turkey fryer setups so i could get another burner and kettle for cheap. many of the turkey fryer pots are tall and narrow, making me think they would make good mash tuns. but many of them are made of aluminum. is there any reason i couldnt use aluminum for a mash tun?
 
Can't think of one offhand -but many of those aluminum kettles tend to be very tall and narrow (as you mentioned) -I may be wrong, but I'd think you would get better efficiency (mash and rinse) with a wider, squatter tun.
 
simple enough to insulate a metal tun -my tun is a 9 gal. stainless kettle, I used insulation I got from Lowes -its plastic bubble-wrap that is backed on both sides by aluminum foil -it works like a charm (of course, I don't directly heat my tun, I use a heat-exchange coil recirc system). If you want to put a flame under that thing, I wouldn't use my insulation for it (of course, if you were going to directly heat the tun then you wouldn't really need the insulation anyway).
 
I was using my AL brew kettle to de-label commercial bottles prior to bottling. I had an oxi-clean solution sitting in it for a couple days with bottles cycling in and out. Woke up and checked on the bottles before heading into work and the inside of the kettle was black up to where the water level was.

I dumped it out, and let it soak with hot water and some dish soap while I was at work. Came home, scrubbed it with a green scrubbie and no luck.

I was advised to use PBW on it, so I filled it up with hot water and used the PBW, which doesn't appear to have made any difference after a couple hours.


Is this black "stain" the desired oxidation? Have I ruined my pot?

Thanks!
 
63belair, you've created the sought after aluminum oxide layer on the kettle. It's now safe for wort up to that level. If you want to do it fully, get as much solution inside it as possible and give it another soak, up to the highest level you can.
 
The 'aluminum vs. stainless steel' (SS) pot debate pops up frequently, and given that we tend to see lots of new homebrewers enter the hobby shortly after Christmas, perhaps it is timely to post an FAQ on the subject.

Q: Is an aluminum pot OK for a boiling kettle in homebrewing? My LHBS only recommens using stainless steel.


A: Both aluminum and SS pots are excellent in homebrewing, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is purely a personal preference. Here are some considerations:


Aluminum Pots:
Pros:
- considerably less expensive than SS
- much better at conducting heat than SS, which means faster boils, faster cooling, and less chance of scorching
- not as heavy to lift as SS

Cons:
- oxidizes easily, meaning that oxygen-based cleaners (e.g., Oxyclean, One-step) cannot be used (Note: caustic or other similar clean-in-place solutions can definitely not be used, which is why the brewing industry generally does not use aluminum.)
- passive oxide layer must be built up before brewing (**see note below) with a new aluminum kettle, although it is very easy to maintain

Stainless Steel Pots:
Pros:
- can be cleaned by oxygenated/CIP cleaners without damaging the pot
- passive oxide layer that protects the pot is not as easy to remove as aluminum
- they are really shiny and look cool!

Cons:
- expensive
- not nearly as good at conducting heat as aluminum

Myths About Aluminum Pots:
- Aluminum pots will cause Alzheimer's disease. FALSE. This myth was debunked years ago by the medical research community, and the US National Institutes of Health and Health Canada have long since ruled out a connection between Alzheimer’s disease and aluminum cookware. If you don’t believe me, see the following:
http://www.alzheimers.org.uk/site/scripts/documents_info.php?documentID=99
http://alz.org/alzheimers_disease_myths_about_alzheimers.asp
http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/alzheimers.htm

- Boiling your wort in an aluminum pot will cause off-flavours in your beer. FALSE. Simply boiling a batch of wort will not remove enough metal from your aluminum pot to get into your beer and cause metallic off flavours, particularly if you build up a passive oxide layer inside the pot first. For new pots, this is easily achieved by either boiling the pot full of water for 30 mins to one hour, or by putting it in your oven for 10 mins at 350 F.

- Aluminum pots have very thin walls, and are not suitable for a boil kettle, particularly if you want to install a ball valve. FALSE. Thin- and thick-walled pots are made from both aluminum and stainless steel. The material they are made from is much less relevant that the thickness of the pot.

- Aluminum pots will react with very acidic materials, and wort is acidic. NOT REALLY. Wort isn’t acidic enough to cause a problem with an aluminum pot. In fact, both SS and aluminum are quite resistant to acidic materials, and you need to be concerned more about highly alkaline (i.e. basic or high pH) materials with your pots.

- Aluminum pots are simply not as durable as SS pots, so why bother, plus they will scratch easily and harbor bacteria. PERHAPS, BUT... Both aluminum and SS are durable enough for homebrewing if you are willing to invest just a small amount of care for your equipment. You simply aren’t going to wear out an aluminum pot in your brewing lifetime, so this is a moot argument. Furthermore, scratches aren’t really a concern with a kettle since the heat of the boil is going to sanitize it anyways.

The Bottom Line:

You can’t go wrong with a quality stainless steel pot, and they are a tried-and-true solution for lots of homebrewers. Yet, aluminum is a viable alternative that is much less expensive than SS. In fact, you can generally purchase a larger and heavier aluminum pot compared to the equivalently priced SS pot. In homebrewing, I guarantee you will really appreciate having a larger pot that is heavy and conducts heat well, speeding our boiling and cooling times and reducing scorching. In my mind, this far outweighs the cosmetic appeal and somewhat higher durability of a SS pot.


I have probably missed a few important points, but would be happy to ammend this post to keep it thorough and accurate.

I have a 20g alum pot and i love it(other than i cant carry it full by myself lol) Great post man!
 
If your oxide layer comes off, would a re-boil of water rebuild an oxide layer?

Yes.

When I installed the ball valve in mine, I had to get rid of some sharp burrs. I used a brass wire wheel on my drill to do the job. I did hit some of the oxise layer, so it came off. A quick boil got a layer onto the exposed aluminum easily. Its since built up nicely with additional boils. Doesn't hurt that I use that kettle to just heat up my sparge water now. I boil in the Blichmann. :rockin:
 
my main question is. if you made two beers...all things the same except one was boiled in a SS pot and one was boiled in an aluminum pot...would you be able to tell the difference???
 
my main question is. if you made two beers...all things the same except one was boiled in a SS pot and one was boiled in an aluminum pot...would you be able to tell the difference???

No. Or more to the point, if the taste tester doesn't know the beer came from an aluminum kettle he won't taste it, but if he knows it came from aluminum he will swear on his mothers grave that he does in fact taste it. ;)
 
Thanks for breaking it down so well in one post. A friend got a 12gal tamale steamer from Vallarta (chain Spanish grocer) for 30$ years back and is convinced that probably still are that much if not just a little more. That's a considerable savings over ~180$ for something stainless, so I'm gonna dive into that when I first do a gal batch!
 
I recently purchased an aluminum tamale steamer like the previous poster mentioned. I am trying to oxidize it before brewing. The first time I boiled water in it I only filled it up about 2 inchs. After this boil the bottom 2 inchs got a brownish tone. So I tried filling it up nearly to the top to oxidize the rest but this time when I finished boiling it did not change the color. The second time I let it boil for over an hour. Does this mean the pot is not properly oxidized? Any reason for the pot not to get a brownish hue?
 
The pot was oxidized when you did the first boil. The color is from the minor chemistry in the water causing a different color. I supposeyou could anadize your pot any color you wanted intentionally if you wanted.
 
On the topic... until I can build a keggle as nice as BobbyNJ does... I'm using aluminum... its damn cheap!
 
I don't mean to keep this thread alive but I did have a question on alum pot oxidation. I noticed that things like oxyclean, one step...etc are oxidizers and you want that on aluminum...would it be okay then to get a new alum pot and the clean it with oxyclean and rinse it off? Or should I just stay with the boiling water for ? mins

I can get a 20 qt 4mil (7-8 gauge) alum stock pot NSF listed for $27 at a local restuarant store and I just got my 1st BB English Brown Ale kit...thinking of doing a 3-4 gal boil.

Will a ice bath cool 3-4 gallons down pretty good or should I just wait until I order/get my wort chiller?
 
your best bet is to fill it to the brim with water and bring that to a boil for atleast 20 minutes... This will open up the metal and sure to "seal" or oxidise. It will also make sure that any metals from manufacturing are gone... I used some steel wool after my first boil lightly scrubbed the pot and did another boil and disregard.

good luck...
 

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