Just a side bar, my 3bbl kettles arrived yesterday.. pretty stoked to get going on my electric panel for that.
It’s reaction from folks like those that encourages me to defy them I’ll contact Allen Gu, if anyone wants in PM me. Thanks again!
opening a nano brewery in town with a partner.....you must have a lot of friends [emoji482]
good to know, im about to purchase again from him..Pickles--I'd suggest that you request Allen Gu to make sure to package the units well. 3 out of 4 units I purchased had bent plugs when they delivered. They were just thrown in a box without any packaging, so the box was shredded when it arrived from China. I was able to bend the plugs back, but it was still a hassle to get them just-right so that they were smooth.
cat 5 cable will work fine. others here have already done this.. ethernet jacks and all. (I have a ton of it myself from work)
The wire 30GA? thats comes with these RTD's is pretty bad as far as strand count. (The cat 5 is much better) .. so much so the stainless braided cable is used on the really cheap crap to help prevent the wires from just breaking with a gentle tug.. This is why I find it so shady that auberins sells the cheapest stainless braided crap as an "upgrade"... The teflon cables are leaps and bounds better.
just be sure to solder the wires on and you will be ok with RTD's thermocouples are a different story so Ive read.
I do agree soldering is best for this but many of these are shipping from sellers with them already crimped on... Perhaps this contributes to some of the accuracy complaints I've read about from some folks here? Ive never actually done a side by side comparison on this but look at it this way.To reiterate... RTD cable connections should be soldered, not crimped. You need the lowest impedance impact possible.
Sorry for the delay in response, and also sorry for kind of hijacking augie's thread. I did check the voltage into the motor with a slightly better meter that claims True RMS, and it was reading around 23.4V at 100%.Run the PWM at 100% and read the voltage into the motor. Should be ~23.3V or so.
Ok so full power is getting to the motor. Now read it at 75, 50, and 25% using that RMS function.
My FM is before the RIMs tube, but after the proportional valve.
how did your actual flow speed react? I can take mine from 3 gpm down to about 1 gpm with mine and less with pulling through the grainbed as a restriction.So it went down by about 1 V each time I dropped by 25%. So 75 was about 23V, 50 was about 22V, and 25 was about 21V. I even checked 5% and that was about 20V. 0% obviously went to 0V.
how did your actual flow speed react? I can take mine from 3 gpm down to about 1 gpm with mine and less with pulling through the grainbed as a restriction.
if you dont have one I suggest a cheap flowmeter...
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