External controller for both 120V OR 240V

[mneilson]

Currently in the midst of daydreaming/planning an eBIAB system. I've been considering picking up an Anvil Foundry partially for the ability to switch between 120V and 240V power sources, but I'm not a big fan of the serviceability aspect. I'd much rather have an external controller and the ability to replace heating elements if necessary.

Most external controllers that I've seen available for purchase (or wiring plans on here) are for either 120V or 240V systems, but I'm really interested in a single controller where I could just use different power cords for the different voltages. Has anyone come across either a ready-made commercial one or DIY plans for something like this?

 

[SanPancho]

Depends on what you’re implying. I’d have to assume you mean to use 240v elements and run them sometimes with only 120v i.e. 50% power, yes?

in that case you’d simply put a female receptacle for each on your box, and wire it as if both were supplying power to system. The only drawback is that the second receptacle would be hot (or half-hot if you’re running 120) and should be covered just for safety’s sake. pretty easy to do With hinged spring covers like for outdoor/wet location.

otherwise you could use a 3phase switch that would disconnect the 240v side just by simple on/off positions. But there’s a risk they could both be turned on at same time that way.

i like your plug idea better. You can’t really plug both cords in “accidentally” the way a simple switch could be thrown Unintentionally.

 

[doug293cz]

Depends on what you’re implying. I’d have to assume you mean to use 240v elements and run them sometimes with only 120v i.e. 50% power, yes?

in that case you’d simply put a female receptacle for each on your box, and wire it as if both were supplying power to system. The only drawback is that the second receptacle would be hot (or half-hot if you’re running 120) and should be covered just for safety’s sake. pretty easy to do With hinged spring covers like for outdoor/wet location.

otherwise you could use a 3phase switch that would disconnect the 240v side just by simple on/off positions. But there’s a risk they could both be turned on at same time that way.

i like your plug idea better. You can’t really plug both cords in “accidentally” the way a simple switch could be thrown Unintentionally.

Running 240V rated element at 120V only provides 1/4 the power. A 5500W element will only provide 1375W @ 120V. Power in a resistor is given by V^2 / R. R is fixed, and if you cut V in half, then V^2 gets divided by 4.

A dual voltage controller is pretty simple to do, if you plan ahead when designing. Here's an example of one:

Brew on

 

[mneilson]

@doug293cz thanks for the wiring diagram. This is very helpful. If I'm understanding correctly, this would be able to run up to a 5500W element (on a 30A 240V circuit) or up to a 1650W element (on a 15A 120V circuit)?

 

[doug293cz]

@doug293cz thanks for the wiring diagram. This is very helpful. If I'm understanding correctly, this would be able to run up to a 5500W element (on a 30A 240V circuit) or up to a 1650W element (on a 15A 120V circuit)?

Yes. You could even go a little higher at 240V (~6600W.) You can also use the higher functionality EZBoils (DSPR3xx) "PID"s, as the connections are the same.

The power input shows NEMA L14-30 (locking) plug/receptacle, but could also use NEMA 14-30 (non-locking.)

Brew on

 

[Brewdog80]

Other than the novelty, if you have 240 volt circuit available, there is zero reason to want to use 120v. If you want to lower the boil, just turn down power...... and there could be no reason to heat slow.....just a waste if time.

 

[doug293cz]

Other than the novelty, if you have 240 volt circuit available, there is zero reason to want to use 120v. If you want to lower the boil, just turn down power...... and there could be no reason to heat slow.....just a waste if time.

If you want to take your brew system over to a buddies to brew, and they don't have 240 available...

Brew on

 

[Brewdog80]

Yep, but I'd rather they just come over here.. otherwise, it would be 2 hours longer to just do the brew... plus tear down and load and then onload.... lot of extra work.... but, that is one reason. But it is only two minutes to change plug from the 240 to a 120 and back..... I'd not waste the money to add complexity to the system.

 

[mneilson]

My goal is flexibility and future-proofing. I don't currently have 240 in my brew space, and it's not currently near the top of the home improvement list, but I'd like the capacity for when that happens. Plus portability to other venues, etc.

 

[doug293cz]

... But it is only two minutes to change plug from the 240 to a 120 and back..... I'd not waste the money to add complexity to the system.

Did you look at the design? The only thing needed to convert from 240V operation to 120V operation is to add a pigtail that allows the attachment of a 120V plug - essentially just changing the plug.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

The question you should really be asking is whether you'll be satisfied at your current batch size with a 120v element. If it's a 5 gallon batch, I think the answer is no.

 

[mneilson]

The question you should really be asking is whether you'll be satisfied at your current batch size with a 120v element. If it's a 5 gallon batch, I think the answer is no.

@Bobby_M good point to consider. My batch size ranges between 2.5-5 gallons, with no plans to ever go higher than 5 (no desire to ever do 10+ gallon batches). I feel like I'd be satisfied with 120v at that scale (especially if using things like delay timers to pre-heat water), but would appreciate 240v if available for heating speed.

 

[doug293cz]

@Bobby_M good point to consider. My batch size ranges between 2.5-5 gallons, with no plans to ever go higher than 5 (no desire to ever do 10+ gallon batches). I feel like I'd be satisfied with 120v at that scale (especially if using things like delay timers to pre-heat water), but would appreciate 240v if available for heating speed.

You can also use an auxiliary immersion heater (heat stick) plugged into a second GFCI protected 120V circuit to get an additional 1500 - 1650W for rapid heating of strike water, and heating to boil. The heat stick does not require a controller if used only during heat up.

Brew on

 

[Lazerdyn]

Running 240V rated element at 120V only provides 1/4 the power. A 5500W element will only provide 1375W @ 120V. Power in a resistor is given by V^2 / R. R is fixed, and if you cut V in half, then V^2 gets divided by 4.

A dual voltage controller is pretty simple to do, if you plan ahead when designing. Here's an example of one:

View attachment 753629

Brew on

I am trying to figure out the receptacle adapter cord. Does this wire into the panel, or do you need a male to male cable?

 

[doug293cz]

I am trying to figure out the receptacle adapter cord. Does this wire into the panel, or do you need a male to male cable?

It is a separate "pigtail" cord. Female 240V receptacle, and male 120V plug.

You never, ever, want to have a male to male power cord. They are a serious shock hazard. The power source side must always be female, and the power receiving side must be male.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

Never ever make a male/male "widowmaker" cable.

 

[Lazerdyn]

It is a separate "pigtail" cord. Female 240V receptacle, and male 120V plug.

You never, ever, want to have a male to male power cord. They are a serious shock hazard. The power source side must always be female, and the power receiving side must be male.

Brew on

Is this what you are saying?
https://www.amazon.com/sspa/click?i...sInFzcCI6IjQuMjYifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-15-spons&psc=1

 

[doug293cz]

Is this what you are saying?
https://www.amazon.com/sspa/click?i...sInFzcCI6IjQuMjYifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-15-spons&psc=1

No, that's the opposite of what you want. You need this one, or similar, but not locking receptacle (whichever matches the 240V plug on your control panel.)

https://www.amazon.com/Locking-L14-...acle+to+nema+15-5+plug+adapter,aps,171&sr=8-8

However, I can't tell how this adapter is wired internally. If the wrong 240V hot is connected to neutral, or one of the 240V hots is open, then it won't work.

Edit: After further review, it looks like this adapter from Amazon is only three wire, so it won't work at all, even tho it has the correct plug and receptacle.

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