EBay fish tank controller build using Wal-mart parts

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I am still debating placement but I currently have my sensor in a section of cornie diptube with an alumalloy plug melted in the bottom of it to give it some thermal mass.

image-215185109.jpg
 
I have mine hanging in the freezer. I set like a 2 degree temp swing. And maxed out the delay to 10 min. I'm fermenting in mid 60's. Fold a paper towel and tape to side wall?
 
Help! I wired this up and it worked great, except didn't break the tab so it always turned on both outlets. I only need to cool, but to be safe I went ahead and opened it up and broke the tab. Now, it still powers up, but the cool light blinks and neither outlet ever gets any power. Thoughts?
 
ddockery said:
Help! I wired this up and it worked great, except didn't break the tab so it always turned on both outlets. I only need to cool, but to be safe I went ahead and opened it up and broke the tab. Now, it still powers up, but the cool light blinks and neither outlet ever gets any power. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Did you break the hot (brass tab) or the Neutral (chrome tab) Also, you must now have Hots going to both brass screws to power both recepticals.
 
ddockery said:
Help! I wired this up and it worked great, except didn't break the tab so it always turned on both outlets. I only need to cool, but to be safe I went ahead and opened it up and broke the tab. Now, it still powers up, but the cool light blinks and neither outlet ever gets any power. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

The blinking cool light (or heat, for that matter), indicates that the device is on "compressor delay". Check option F3, and see what it says there. I have my F3 delay set to 5 minutes.

MC
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
The blinking cool light (or heat, for that matter), indicates that the device is on "compressor delay". Check option F3, and see what it says there. I have my F3 delay set to 5 minutes.

MC
Click to expand...

Hi

For a normal compressor based system, I'd suggest taking the F3 up to 10 minutes. If that creates timeouts, I'd take a look at sensor placement and the F2 setting (as in: "is it to small?").

Bob
 
Anybody use an inline fuse? I put one in my build and it keeps popping. (10 amp) Any thoughts?
 
Hi all. New here so thanks in advance for any/all info. Just got a used chest freezer yesterday and looking to build one of these temp controllers. I only want the one stage controller for cooling. I feel like I read this entire thread and didn't see any wiring diagrams for wiring the one stage for cooling? With that said....how would this differ than the original wiring diagram for the two stage? Thanks!
 
shoboat90 said:
Hi all. New here so thanks in advance for any/all info. Just got a used chest freezer yesterday and looking to build one of these temp controllers. I only want the one stage controller for cooling. I feel like I read this entire thread and didn't see any wiring diagrams for wiring the one stage for cooling? With that said....how would this differ than the original wiring diagram for the two stage? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Not that much difference: Don't break the tab on the electric outlet, and only one run wire from the output of the controller to the outlet.

There are diagrams on this board showing what you are looking for.

MC
 
I built this today, and I can't get it to work :(

It powers on fine, and the temperature displays properly and is accurate, but I do not receive any output from my two outlets when heating or cooling. Should I hear a audible click when the relay engages? I don't hear anything at all. I wired it using the schematic provided by the OP, but I did make a tiny mistake when I broke the tab off of both sides of the outlet, but I reconnected the white screws with a bit of extra wire. I can hear something loose in the unit when I move it around, so I'm thinking I got a bad one. Any suggestions? I don't really want to return this to Hong Kong.
 
Snicks said:
I built this today, and I can't get it to work :(

It powers on fine, and the temperature displays properly and is accurate, but I do not receive any output from my two outlets when heating or cooling. Should I hear a audible click when the relay engages? I don't hear anything at all. I wired it using the schematic provided by the OP, but I did make a tiny mistake when I broke the tab off of both sides of the outlet, but I reconnected the white screws with a bit of extra wire. I can hear something loose in the unit when I move it around, so I'm thinking I got a bad one. Any suggestions? I don't really want to return this to Hong Kong.
Click to expand...

Yes, the relay makes an audible click, although not very loud. If it's not working it could be that you're not waiting long enough for the compressor delay, you got a 220v version and are trying to run it on 110v, it's wired wrong, or it's a faulty unit. What is compressor delay set to? What are the lights on the front of the unit doing (on, off, flashing)?
 
JuanMoore said:
Yes, the relay makes an audible click, although not very loud. If it's not working it could be that you're not waiting long enough for the compressor delay, you got a 220v version and are trying to run it on 110v, it's wired wrong, or it's a faulty unit. What is compressor delay set to? What are the lights on the front of the unit doing (on, off, flashing)?
Click to expand...

The compressor delay is 3min and I waited till the light stopped flashing to test, also double checked the wiring and tested connections with a multimeter.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390439422307...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3576wt_1397

This is the auction I bought, and it says 110V. The diagram on the auction and on my unit say 220VAC so I guess they shipped me the wrong one, unless they use the 220V diagram for all of the units. Thanks for the help, guess I will try and contact the seller. :mad:
 
Snicks said:
The compressor delay is 3min and I waited till the light stopped flashing to test, also double checked the wiring and tested connections with a multimeter.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390439422307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3576wt_1397

This is the auction I bought, and it says 110V. The diagram on the auction and on my unit say 220VAC so I guess they shipped me the wrong one, unless they use the 220V diagram for all of the units. Thanks for the help, guess I will try and contact the seller. :mad:
Click to expand...

They often send the same diagram for all units. To verify the voltage you can pop the cover off and look at the transformer. Sounds like you may have gotten a bad one.
 
JuanMoore said:
They often send the same diagram for all units. To verify the voltage you can pop the cover off and look at the transformer. Sounds like you may have gotten a bad one.
Click to expand...

I'm going to wait till I hear from the seller before I open it up because I'd have to destroy the sticker.

I unwired everything and then just hooked up the power and sensor. When it kicked into cooling I measured infinite resistance directly on the cooling terminals, guess its dead or the wrong unit for sure. I appreciate the help.
 
I made something similar to this and it works great for my fermentation fridge. I tried to use it with my electric kettle and it fried it. I guess there was too much load with my 3x1500w elements. Is there a way to do this to control the kettle without all that power going through it and overloading it?
 
dobberson24 said:
I made something similar to this and it works great for my fermentation fridge. I tried to use it with my electric kettle and it fried it. I guess there was too much load with my 3x1500w elements. Is there a way to do this to control the kettle without all that power going through it and overloading it?
Click to expand...

Have the controller send the signal to a Solid State Relay (SSR) that is rated for your total power consumption. That way the SSR sees the electricity... not the controller.
Jump over to the Electric Brewing sub forum here on HBT...
 
dobberson24 said:
I made something similar to this and it works great for my fermentation fridge. I tried to use it with my electric kettle and it fried it. I guess there was too much load with my 3x1500w elements. Is there a way to do this to control the kettle without all that power going through it and overloading it?
Click to expand...

No kidding! 1500w = apx 13.6A. Even just one element would destroy the controller (I think it's rated at 10A if my old brain is still working).

MC
 
I knew there must have been some magical device you guys were all using to make this happen. I now know this magic has a name: Solid State Relay. Thanks. Gonna hafta get me one.
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
You should be able to get that controller a bit more flush with the plate... mine sits perfectly flush. I did NOT reuse the small protector plate from the controller.

MC
Click to expand...

I did leave the protector on. I will try it removing it tonight.
 
I mentioned about a page or so back how the Ebay seller I was dealing with sent me a 220V STC-1000 instead of the 120V. Well I finally got my replacement in the mail.... a Paint Zoom...?


Sigh.

PaintZoom.jpg
 
Snicks said:
I mentioned about a page or so back how the Ebay seller I was dealing with sent me a 220V STC-1000 instead of the 120V. Well I finally got my replacement in the mail.... a Paint Zoom...?

Sigh.
Click to expand...

Seller had good feedback?
 
You can find these so cheap, I would order more than one. Mine were about $25 a piece when I ordered. I actually need to place another order in case I need to replace a unit.

It would be trouble if either one of my controllers went out and I did not have a backup.

Fermentation chamber and keezer.
 
I need some help. I have a Cooper gfci outlet I got from home depot. I have wired it up correctly I am sure, it's only 3 wires and I'm not hooked up to the load connections..when I plug in the controller everything turns on, the temp controller works. Nothing is plugged into the outlets, then like 20 seconds later the actual house breaker trips and everything goes off until I reset it in the garage. I thought the gfci outlet itself is supposed to trip the button in the outlet? I don't understand why it's tripping my entire circuit...
 
FuzzeWuzze said:
I need some help. I have a Cooper gfci outlet I got from home depot. I have wired it up correctly I am sure, it's only 3 wires and I'm not hooked up to the load connections..when I plug in the controller everything turns on, the temp controller works. Nothing is plugged into the outlets, then like 20 seconds later the actual house breaker trips and everything goes off until I reset it in the garage. I thought the gfci outlet itself is supposed to trip the button in the outlet? I don't understand why it's tripping my entire circuit...
Click to expand...

I'm not an electrician... But my guess would be that you reversed the load and the neutral, OR that you shouldn't be running a fridge on a GFCI, as it's an unbalanced load.

I've had problems with refrigerators in the garage on a wall-GFCI as well. I reverted to a non-GFCI wall outlet.

From here:

Nuisance tripping:

Supply Voltage:
  • Variations in supply voltage.
  • Long distance between control panel and main power at property. Induced current into the neutral wire. Soil pH levels.
  • A local ground take at the control panel usually eliminates this problem. Also, distances over 250' on the load side of the GFCI breaker can cause nuisance tripping.

Unbalanced, intermitant loads:

On 240v units, check for unbalanced loads on the power line. These unbalanced loads (refrigerators, Air conditioners, ect) switching on and off can cause the GFCI breaker to trip randomly.
Click to expand...

MC
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
I'm not an electrician... But my guess would be that you reversed the load and the neutral, OR that you shouldn't be running a fridge on a GFCI, as it's an unbalanced load.

I've had problems with refrigerators in the garage on a wall-GFCI as well. I reverted to a non-GFCI wall outlet.

From here:



MC
Click to expand...


Well the thing is, i dont even have the freezer plugged in...with nothing plugged into it, its tripping the circuit. I am 100% sure i dont have the hot wire wrong...its pretty hard to mess up theres a giant engraving on the back that says "WHITE WIRE" and the other one says "HOT WIRE" and on the bottom it has the sticker covering the LOAD connections. I may just go get a standard outlet...
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
I'm not an electrician... But my guess would be that you reversed the load and the neutral, OR that you shouldn't be running a fridge on a GFCI, as it's an unbalanced load.

I've had problems with refrigerators in the garage on a wall-GFCI as well. I reverted to a non-GFCI wall outlet.....
Click to expand...
A fridge or freezer should function perfectly fine on a GFCI outlet or circuit. If the GFCI is tripping it is because there is leakage current to ground, which should never be designed into an appliance and therefore means something has failed electrically.

FuzzeWuzze said:
Well the thing is, i dont even have the freezer plugged in...with nothing plugged into it, its tripping the circuit. I am 100% sure i dont have the hot wire wrong...its pretty hard to mess up theres a giant engraving on the back that says "WHITE WIRE" and the other one says "HOT WIRE" and on the bottom it has the sticker covering the LOAD connections. I may just go get a standard outlet...
Click to expand...
Post a photo of your wiring and someone will provide feedback as to what may be wired incorrectly.

Of course, you MAY have a bad gfci outlet.

Another possibility is that the outlet/circuit that you're plugging all this into has a problem.
 

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