Easy Stovetop All-Grain Brewing (with pics)

[agenthucky]

What do you do about the break material? I was thinking maybe let it sit and siphoning off the top instead of draining it...

you can do that, but you loose volume. using a whirlfloc tablet or irish moss will leave your beer clean when its done fermenting, but you'll have a bit of trub in the bottom of the carboy. This is just a volume loss I adjust for. Me personally, I just throw it all in my fermenter. Hops and all.

 

[seabass07]

I just did this for the first time today... I really like the concept, but I think its pretty limited for what I like to brew. I did 15 lbs of grain, which easily fit along with 6 gallons of water in my kettle. However it took all of the strength in my right arm to hold up the grain bag while it drained, and get a strainer under it. My set up is up high so the top of my kettle is chest height. I wouldn't recommend this for beer above 1.060 or so. Plus the protein break material was pretty funky to deal with, there was about 3 inches of it in the bottom of my kettle after I was done. Is this still an issue with a mash tun?

I did this method with 16lbs of grain. I quickly realized that I needed to change something when I tried lifting the grain bag. So I got a large bowl and put the lid to my kettle on top of it upside down. It can hold a few quarts of liquid due to it's shape. I pulled out the grain bag with both hands and set it on the inverted lid. Then I put the canning rack into my kettle which is tall enough for me to set the grain bag on while I pour sparge water over the grains. Only a couple drops of wort on the counter.

I'd strongly recommend setting something up next to the kettle that will hold the soaked grain bag while you put in a strainer. You could also use a wide colander that fits on top of a large bowl for this as well. It's a lot easier to move that grain bag when you use both hands and you have something to set it on. Lifting it up with one hand while trying to put something under it is just near impossible.

 

[bottlebomber]

The bowl idea is a really good plan... id been trying to figure out what to use, my kettle is 18" across. I should be able to find a large stainless steel bowl and just drill holes in it to drain. Alas I forgot to add irish moss as I do about 30% or the time. I wonder if there's anyhope for my beer to be somewhat clear. Im using wlp007 which drops like a rock but I don't know if that's going to contribute to the protein dropping too

 

[seabass07]

You can always cold crash before bottling/kegging. If you let it sit long enough, it should be pretty clear.

 

[Brew_4iT]

whatever you do don't overlook the supplies like I did... BIG BIG mess! lol

 

[bottlebomber]

You can always cold crash before bottling/kegging. If you let it sit long enough, it should be pretty clear.

Ok, right of course. Thanks for the reminder. Do you think there will still be plenty of yeast left in suspension to bottle condition, or should I repitch a little?

 

[seabass07]

Unless you let it sit for a few months before bottling, there should be plenty of yeast for carbonation.

 

[Justibone]

The amount of general crap in the fermentor when brewing "big" beers with this method is really off-putting. Even when I have an all-grain recipe, if I'm using this recipe I like to substitute some malt extract for the actual grain. We learned this lesson on a barleywine... where every bottle is precious.

 

[BryceL]

I've been looking at trying this method as an introduction to all grain. My idea is to heat up my strike water to about 180 and then dump that into my plastic bucket, let it fall to my calculated temperature and then mash it. I have an 8 gallon kettle that I can use to heat up my sparge water in and rinse my grains. My question is, how do I go about calculating the maximum amount of grain I can use with a 6 gallon bucket assuming I'm using 1.25 qt/lb of strike water? Thanks!

 

[agenthucky]

I've been looking at trying this method as an introduction to all grain. My idea is to heat up my strike water to about 180 and then dump that into my plastic bucket, let it fall to my calculated temperature and then mash it. I have an 8 gallon kettle that I can use to heat up my sparge water in and rinse my grains. My question is, how do I go about calculating the maximum amount of grain I can use with a 6 gallon bucket assuming I'm using 1.25 qt/lb of strike water? Thanks!

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

This website is posted about every 10 pages on this forum. You guys are going to need to start paying DB to keep this thread up! That or condense the info to the first post.

 

[BryceL]

Thanks! So much info on this huge thread it's hard to find what you're looking for.

 

[seabass07]

And keep in mind that those temps in a plastic bucket can cause pitting which can harbor bacteria. I wouldn't use that bucket for a bottling bucket or fermenter after using it to mash grains.

 

[BryceL]

And keep in mind that those temps in a plastic bucket can cause pitting which can harbor bacteria. I wouldn't use that bucket for a bottling bucket or fermenter after using it to mash grains.

Thanks for the tip. I ferment in separate carboys and keg, so I think I'm covered! Good to know though.

 

[cadarnell]

I've used this method for 9 batches of beer now and I really love it ... I made a cooler mash tun and did a couple beers in that, but this is just better for me right now I think because I do have to use the kitchen stove at this time ... does anyone else seem to get better eff. when using less grain, like just 7 or 8 lbs. and making smaller batches? ... my eff. seems to go up on smaller batches and down on larger batches that use over 10 lbs of grain ... I do add a bag squeeze too ... any thoughts? .. oh all my crushes are extra fine for BIAB ...

 

[tonyolympia]

... I do add a bag squeeze too ...

Seems like about half the people on here squeeze the bag, and the other half scream "Don't squeeze the bag!"

So what's the deal? What are the risks of squeezing the bag? Tannin extraction? How serious of risk is it really? I'm about to do my first BIAB, so if someone could give me the straight dope I'd appreciate it.

EDIT: Never mind, it seems like the answers are all right here...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/do-you-squeeze-bag-biab-177051/

 

[bottlebomber]

You really don't need to squeeze the bag. If you've used enough sparge water at the right temp there wont be too much of value in there anyway, and it drains pretty nicely

 

[BMGfan]

Ok, Newb here with minimal equipment, thinking about trying an all grain.

Right NOW I have on hand a large cooler (without a tap) and a 10 litre (2.5g) pot. I want to try a 2 gallon batch in order to proof and refine techniques.

Is there any reason I can't put the grains in a grain bag, mash in the cooler, and then tea bag in pot for sparge water?

I don't really want to shell out any cash for a set of pots right now for various reasons. But I think this could work, maybe start with Edworts ridiculously simple house ale (hey I have a test batch of his apelfein fermenting now xP ).

Anything I'm failing to think of?

 

[Justibone]

Ok, Newb here with minimal equipment, thinking about trying an all grain.

Right NOW I have on hand a large cooler (without a tap) and a 10 litre (2.5g) pot. I want to try a 2 gallon batch in order to proof and refine techniques.

Is there any reason I can't put the grains in a grain bag, mash in the cooler, and then tea bag in pot for sparge water?

I don't really want to shell out any cash for a set of pots right now for various reasons. But I think this could work, maybe start with Edworts ridiculously simple house ale (hey I have a test batch of his apelfein fermenting now xP ).

Anything I'm failing to think of?

Getting the mash water from the cooler to the boil pot might be awkward, if it's a big cooler. Other than that, it sounds plausible. You might as well sparge right into your boil kettle, and then dump the mash water in from the cooler after that.

All-in-all, it's a workable set up for BIAB.

 

[Pilamman]

Great tutorial! A couple questions: when do you measure OG? That is, how do you know your mash and sparge are complete? If you don't hit your target OG, then what? I used 10 lb grain and 1 lb rice syrup but had an OG of 1.030 (measured when still hot). Since I had a couple lbs of extract tossed that in too. OG when cooled was 1.07. Uhoh. Kolsch yeast was labeled for 1.06-1.065. guess I'll find out in a couple weeks.

 

[Justibone]

Great tutorial! A couple questions: when do you measure OG?

Typically, I measure after the boil is complete, when topping up the fermentor.

That is, how do you know your mash and sparge are complete?

You know that the sparge is complete when you're done with rinsing the grain. As for the mash, you can use a drop of wort and of iodine, then watch for a color change. If the iodine turns purple, there are still starches, and the mash is not completely finished.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodine_test

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Iodine_test

I've also seen people use a wine cork... whatever floats yer boat!

If you don't hit your target OG, then what?

That's why you keep DME on hand.

I used 10 lb grain and 1 lb rice syrup but had an OG of 1.030 (measured when still hot). Since I had a couple lbs of extract tossed that in too. OG when cooled was 1.07. Uhoh. Kolsch yeast was labeled for 1.06-1.065. guess I'll find out in a couple weeks.

1.070 is the edge of "big beer" territory. You should be fine.

If you want to measure sugars while the wort is hot, you need one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBL2G0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractometer

Have fun!!

 

[LLBrew24]

DeathBrewer:
this was very helpful, pics especially. we're doing our first full grain (90 min Clone) and were trying to figure logistics of still doing it stove top.
thanks a lot!

 

[bottlebomber]

You must have a Wolfe range to do a full 7 gallon boil on the stovetop...

 

[3rdto1st]

Great stuff, cant wait for my first AG, and this will be good because I live in apartments and can't brew outside.

Question, this may have been asked, but there are 90 pages, so i may as well ask again. The temperature strip on your carboy, where did you get it, and would you recommend it? Love the idea there.

 

[bottlebomber]

Question, this may have been asked, but there are 90 pages, so i may as well ask again. The temperature strip on your carboy, where did you get it, and would you recommend it? Love the idea there.

Its a Fermometer. They sell for about $2.95. Everybodies doing it

 

[LLBrew24]

you want your sparge to be about 170°F with the grains in it, but NOT OVER. this means i usually heat my sparge water to 185°F. once it gets to 185°F, i shut of the heat and drain the bag from the mash. it can be difficult lifting ~15 lbs of soaked grains and holding them for several minutes. a colander works really well but can get messy if you're not careful.

i use the help of my mash paddle to start things off:

look, it's plumbers grain!

then you add the grain bag to your sparge water and stir it up. the bags work great around the handles of my pot. you can use clamps or something if you'd like, but i just hold one side tight while i stir and then spread it across the handles like so:

let that sit 10 minutes, remove your grains and drain them again.

then set them aside to be disposed of. this is where you will need another container:

i usually throw mine away but they make fantastic compost.

Where did you get the awesome grain bag?? the one i got with my grains was shotty at best and yours seems reusable correct?

Thanks!

 

[bottlebomber]

Where did you get the awesome grain bag?? the one i got with my grains was shotty at best and yours seems reusable correct?

Thanks!

Its just a 24" nylon bag. You can get them basically at any HBS or online outfit

 

[RogueGoose85]

Just did a stove top all grain 2.5g batch. Worked perfectly. One tip: use a moist towel, rather dry, around the kettle when mashing. I stirred every 15 minutes for an hour, and maintained 152 the entire time - I was quite shocked. I say this because when I used a dry towel for a previous partial, I lost heat doing the same process.

Thanks to deathbrewer for making such a great thread - I can now all grain brew. Awesome.

 

[Twiztidkilla]

ive been looking for a good way to start all grain this is a good lesson thanks

 

[el_caro]

I love the simplicity of this system in being able to use minimal equipment but would be interested in opinions of Hot Side Aeration(HSA) in moving mash liquid to brew pot.

Must confess I have used DB's BIAB method for partial grain/extract to make Yoopers Dead Guy Clone and it has been a huge success. Just wondering if I should invest in a couple of taps and a new aluminium 40Litre stock pot to avoid HSA.

 

[Justibone]

HSA is largely considered to be a boogeyman for homebrewers. It is of concern to larger-scale brewers, but we usually don't worry about it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/hot-side-aeration-oxidization-161364/

Read Revvy's reply (3rd one down).

 

[Elweydoloco]

Just a suggestion guys and you can try it out for yourselves, I get an EXTREMELY constant 155 degrees after I get to 155 using two burners on my gas stove, I flip off a burner then move the pot (stainless turkey fryer) on to one burner and turn it almost all the way down. It's insane how well it holds. However I've done a few batches and have it down to a science. The only other thing i can suggest, is an over the sink collander (Death recommended it in his post a collander anyway) as it's the right size for a turkey fryer and it's a little oversized so will work with most brew kettles I imagine. For the price it holds your grains nicely to let them drip out.

 

[tryn2brew]

I did my first all grain using this method, and it works great. I'm using Beersmith 2, and was wondering what Mash profile most are using for this method? And reasons for the choice.
Thanks for your input on this, and Thanks to DeathBrewer for this great tutorial.

 

[agenthucky]

I did my first all grain using this method, and it works great. I'm using Beersmith 2, and was wondering what Mash profile most are using for this method? And reasons for the choice.
Thanks for your input on this, and Thanks to DeathBrewer for this great tutorial.

The mash profile (schedule) will be different depending on what type of beer you want to brew. The brewery profile is determined by what equipement you use, as everyone is different, creating one tailored to your equipment will help make the results from the software more accurate.

 

[LVBen]

I did my first all grain using this method, and it works great. I'm using Beersmith 2, and was wondering what Mash profile most are using for this method? And reasons for the choice.
Thanks for your input on this, and Thanks to DeathBrewer for this great tutorial.

Beersmith 2 has BIAB mash profiles. Depending on what temperature you use, do light, medium, or full body.

 

[tryn2brew]

I understand choosing light, medium, or full will affect the temperature of the mash and the resulting body, but since my equipment is very similar to what DeathBrewer is using for this tutorial, I was wondering if one of the default mash profiles fits best (BIAB or Single Infusion, etc...).

 

[Burgs]

Just wanted to say that this method works amazingly well for 2.5 gallon batch sizes. When you scale things down, you can make ginormous beers and all the grain will still fit in a 5 gallon pot. It has made my brewing life good.

 

[Burgs]

Just did a stove top all grain 2.5g batch. Worked perfectly. One tip: use a moist towel, rather dry, around the kettle when mashing. I stirred every 15 minutes for an hour, and maintained 152 the entire time - I was quite shocked. I say this because when I used a dry towel for a previous partial, I lost heat doing the same process.

Thanks to deathbrewer for making such a great thread - I can now all grain brew. Awesome.

Cheers to you RogueGoose - I'm doing the same thing! The way I see it, 2.5 gallon batch sizes mean I don't get sick of the same keg 1/2 way through and I can have a variety of brews around! :rockin:

 

[cutchemist42]

Question: When you put the stove top back over the mash, does that not increase the temp?

 

[Justibone]

Question: When you put the stove top back over the mash, does that not increase the temp?

Hmm? Could you phrase this more clearly?

What I think you meant to ask, is when you put the mash back on the stove, does it heat up? The answer is: it depends. It depends on 1) the stove and 2) how fast your mash pot loses heat. My buddy and I have done mashes before where bursts of flame have moved it back up a few degrees, just to keep the mash going near the temp we want... but it's not precise. You need to stir and have an accurate thermometer that reads within two degrees or so.

 

[cutchemist42]

Hmm? Could you phrase this more clearly?

What I think you meant to ask, is when you put the mash back on the stove, does it heat up? The answer is: it depends. It depends on 1) the stove and 2) how fast your mash pot loses heat. My buddy and I have done mashes before where bursts of flame have moved it back up a few degrees, just to keep the mash going near the temp we want... but it's not precise. You need to stir and have an accurate thermometer that reads within two degrees or so.

Okay. Let's say your stovetop brewing. Do you always keep the top of the pot off so that you can stir and look at the thermometer?