E-brew Schematic

[Eighty2Fifty1]

Attached is my schematic for my ebrew setup. I hope to build it when I come back from deployment, this time next year. This is a stripped-down Kal-clone, modified for back-to-back batches. It will fire 4500W elements in keggles, ultimately going for 10-gal batches. I have a few questions about sizing of the relays and circuit breakers.

*The main power contactor will be 50A. That one I'm pretty sure about.

* On the circuit breakers (or fuses, haven't decided yet) and power relays on each branch, should they be 20, 25 or 30A? I calculate 18.75A for each element, plus a few mA required to power the individual element relays and indicator lights. I'm leaning towards 25A.

* The 2 wires actuating the SSR's and the 3 wires that go to each RTD are drawn as 1 for simplicity

* The grounds for pumps and elements will all run to the power wire's ground, like in Kal's design, they are just drawn separately for simplicity again.

View attachment b2b ebrew schematic.pdf

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

So you have basically laid out the exact same setup that I have. Check out the schematic in this post (though it's not actually my final, as I had a safe-start-interlock). Should point you in the right direction. I went with breakers, as they can be turned back on easily vs. replacing fuses, and 25a because that's what was available.

Hope this helps, and stay safe in country.

-Kevin (USN - Seabees)

 

[Eighty2Fifty1]

So you have basically laid out the exact same setup that I have. Check out the schematic in this post (though it's not actually my final, as I had a safe-start-interlock). Should point you in the right direction. I went with breakers, as they can be turned back on easily vs. replacing fuses, and 25a because that's what was available.

Hope this helps, and stay safe in country.

-Kevin (USN - Seabees)

Nice to hear from a fellow sailor. (P-3 Flight Engineer, I don't do that boat thing but there you go...) Just went through your thread. That LED logo plate is f-ing awesome. I'll be stealing that idea when the time comes. I noticed that your contactor coils get power through your 15A CB, whereas mine are tapped directly off the relay coil. I'll change mine so they have a lower amperage CB to protect them, off the 120VAC Accessory Bus. I think I will add the safe start interlock as well. An extra $20 doesn't seem like much in the long run. I think I'll forgo the timers and alarms though. I generally use the timer on Beersmith or my watch. What are you using for a false bottom and a hop stopper?

 

[Eighty2Fifty1]

I made the changes to the relay coil power supply in this one, along with replacing a fuse with the 10A CB, and adding a 5A fuse to protect the PID's. Thinking about using some CB's from work. Would there be any difference for breakers that run 400 Hz 120VAC vs 60 Hz? Or 28 VDC? I'm guessing no, but that's why I ask. Haven't drawn the safe start interlock in, but I understand how it works.

View attachment b2b ebrew schematic v2.pdf

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

I'm on my phone now but I'll look over your diagram when I get back to a computer. Did you post a new diagram or updated the original?

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Nice to hear from a fellow sailor. (P-3 Flight Engineer, I don't do that boat thing but there you go...) Just went through your thread. That LED logo plate is f-ing awesome. I'll be stealing that idea when the time comes. I noticed that your contactor coils get power through your 15A CB, whereas mine are tapped directly off the relay coil. I'll change mine so they have a lower amperage CB to protect them, off the 120VAC Accessory Bus. I think I will add the safe start interlock as well. An extra $20 doesn't seem like much in the long run. I think I'll forgo the timers and alarms though. I generally use the timer on Beersmith or my watch. What are you using for a false bottom and a hop stopper?

I don't touch the boats either... dirt sailor all the way.

Glad you like the LED logo - it was a fun little way to be different. I highly recommend SuperbrightLEDs.com for the LED tape.

False bottom in the mash tun is a JayBird (NorCal) FB. In the BK I used a home made 'hop quesadilla' type thing, but it clogs far too much - I get a lot of hot / cold break. I use a hop-sypder (paint strainer bag on PVC coupling) to hold my hops, and it keeps the majority of the hop gunk in one place. I whirlpool and let it settle, and then have my dip tube cocked off to the side a bit to not draw straight from the center of the cone. I get some crap, but never much to worry about.

I made the changes to the relay coil power supply in this one, along with replacing a fuse with the 10A CB, and adding a 5A fuse to protect the PID's. Thinking about using some CB's from work. Would there be any difference for breakers that run 400 Hz 120VAC vs 60 Hz? Or 28 VDC? I'm guessing no, but that's why I ask. Haven't drawn the safe start interlock in, but I understand how it works.

Couldn't tell you on the 400hz / 60hz question. I don't think a 28VDC breaker would be suitable for 120VAC though. One way to find out...

-Kevin