Duotight ball disconnects - experiences?

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renstyle

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I need more beer & gas ball disconnects. All of my lines are 4mm EVABarrier, using duotight-to-1/4" MFL connected to standard ball disconnects.

Since everything I have is duotight, these looked really interesting. I haven't seen them listed at US suppliers (yet), and wondered if anybody has gotten a hold of a few and are willing to share your thoughts?



Cheers!
 
I don't think these are for sale yet.
I've been subscribed to be alerted when they are in stock since they recently announced them because I wanted to test them.
 
This is a first mention of this product on HBT afaik.
Does the video mention why the new models are "even better"?

Cheers!

The advantages that I can see are no need to have a duo/MFL adapter connected to a standard ball disconnect... one part rather than two. I have had luck (i.e. no ongoing issues or leaks) with EVAbarrier/duotight on both my gas and beer side, so this appealed with one less part/connection that could potentially fail and a (slightly) cleaner look. The lower profile is a handy bonus IMHO.

The spring/poppet is accessible without the need for a screwdriver, the seal is gasket-less, like most of the PET soft drink caps are made these days. Finger tight appears to be sufficient.

It was also mentioned that the poppet does not need an o-ring like a standard ball disconnect, tho other than having one less part to lose while cleaning, this seems a wash to me, as I've not had any problems with over-pressure forcing the poppets out of any of my standard ball disconnects.
 
I don't think these are for sale yet.
I've been subscribed to be alerted when they are in stock since they recently announced them because I wanted to test them.

Did you subscribe at KL directly, or another vendor (state side?). I've only seen them listed on an Aussie (KL) and Canadian site, stock due in the next few weeks. The video was dated earlier this summer, didn't know if I'd missed the first release of product.
 
Ok, all points accepted for the point of discussion, but I'm still left wondering what makes these "now even better" than presumably their previous incarnation :)

Cheers!

I took it to mean they see this as a positive evolution to the standard MFL ball disconnects, not an upgrade to an existing duotight ball disconnect already on the market.

My main interest was piqued as I have need to order additional ball disconnects one way or another, and I use 8mm OD EVAbarrier exclusively.
 
Did you subscribe at KL directly, or another vendor (state side?).
Their site. Waiting to test these and their ball lock with integrated shank connection (which is now available, but I want to make one complete order)
Sometimes they announce things and add it to their site way ahead of time, I'm still also waiting to test that rapt pill hydrometer 😅

I'm still left wondering what makes these "now even better"
renstyle already replied to you, so I'm not sure exactly what more you're after?
 
I took it to mean they see this as a positive evolution to the standard MFL ball disconnects, not an upgrade to an existing duotight ball disconnect already on the market.

My main interest was piqued as I have need to order additional ball disconnects one way or another, and I use 8mm OD EVAbarrier exclusively.

Because it's really hard to market new products if you say "Now, just the same!" :)

Seriously, they look very interesting to me as it eliminates a connection. All of my beer and gas lines are now duo-tight and this is a perfect fit for a system like that.

I'm struggling to understand how that isn't better for someone like me, to be honest.

EDIT: For clarity and to eliminate the mother of all run-on sentences...
 
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I also noticed that they are shorter than a standard Ball Lock QD partially due to the 90 degree angle. For anyone with a height restriction, this would be "better." I have a 60 quart Igloo rolling cooler with a tap that holds 2 1/2 and 3 gallons kegs. When I use 3 gallon kegs, the lid of the cooler won't shut all of the way unless I use Quick Disconnects with 90 degree angles.
 
I signed up for an alert when these became available and got the alert a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, it appears they are only currently available for purchase in Australia. Has anyone seen these available anywhere in the U.S. yet?
 
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These are (were?) finally available in the states, so I picked up 6 of each.

I haven't used any of the beer line disconnects yet, the angle of the CMB connector actually works with my pluto guns in the keezer.

Three gas disconnects in play now: swapped out the two on my serving kegs in the keezer, the <lack> of an angle on the gas side made routing a bit easier. One more in my fermenter for connecting the gas post of my ferm-keg, again to make routing the line a bit easier with minimal headspace to pop it on/off.

Currently spunding a BoPils around 12 PSI, and it's bubbling away.

Do they work? So far, yep. Now were they worth $7.99 a pop for what you get? Its a hard sell unless all you run is 8mm EVABarrier (which I do), and didn't already have a pile of the regular style MFL disconnects.
 
20220505_182245.jpg

Weird, I meant to add this pic to the post above. Ah well.
 
I ended up buying a bunch of these when they became available in the U.S. Given the space between the top of my kegs and the lid of my keezer, I do not need to use them there. In fact, having the angled disconnects actually makes it easier to run gas and beer lines in the keezer. However, I have a rolling cooler that holds 2 1/2 and 3 gallon kegs. The angled disconnects have always been a problem with this given the limited space between the keg top and cooler lid. These disconnects work perfectly for the rolling cooler. I also like the fact that you can unscrew the top of the disconnect with your hand instead of needing a screwdriver while on the road and can quickly connect and disconnect evabarrier tubing.
 
I have these (both gas and liquid) and love them. Space is at a premium in my standup fridge. They're a bit finnicky and the tubing is probably the most difficult to connect/disconnect of any push-to-connect fitting I've experienced, but these do the job. I love not having to futz with barbs, swivels nuts, etc.
 
A year later, I’ll add that I am not a fan. Frequently (depending on the disconnect or the post) they’re hard to get on; one or two times I’ve been totally unable to make it work and had to swap in a CMB. And a few times taking the liquid disconnect off it has left the poppet jammed open, causing beer to spray out.
 
A year later, I’ll add that I am not a fan. Frequently (depending on the disconnect or the post) they’re hard to get on; one or two times I’ve been totally unable to make it work and had to swap in a CMB. And a few times taking the liquid disconnect off it has left the poppet jammed open, causing beer to spray out.
For the first issue, I have that with my standard ball lock QDs. For your latter issue, that is your poppets fault, not the pin that sticks into it.
 
For the first issue, I have that with my standard ball lock QDs. For your latter issue, that is your poppets fault, not the pin that sticks into it.
For the first issue, my Duotights have been significantly worse than CMBs. For the second, it’s never happened with anything other than the Duotight disconnects, and I’ve hooked up many, many kegs.

It’s anecdote, not data, but I won’t be buying any more of the Duotight disconnects.
 
I had one that was leaking, only noted after cylinder slowly emptied. I couldn't seal leak by tightening only with an Oring. Very annoying and not an issue I had with the old connectors.

EDIT I had to put the O ring in the duotight cap no leak occurring or troubles with the post to change the o ring there.
 
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Agree with @Bobby_M
I had two posts that were just ornery with the duotights but also slightly ornery with CMB disconnects. The post O-ring had "blossomed" and replacing with fresh O-ring solved the issue.
But the duotight disconnects are definitely tighter.
 
I'm not too enamored with them myself. They have their pros and cons. I have them on my jockey box and currently switching over on my keezer. I deformed one (perhaps two) while flushing the jockey box system with hot pbw. I was using my BK to heat the PBW and to also use the pump and I overshot the temp. The water wasn't boiling but I didn't check the temp I just turned off the BK. I'd guess the water was about 170-175. My error in a way but it's nice when products can survive boiling. The material seems harder than traditional ball lock disconnects but yes I too have found issues with getting them on the posts at times and the keg was not a problem. My older disconnects seem to wear in some so perhaps these will too. I had one just break too and since it was on my jockey box it was used less frequently plus they were really new as well. And getting the damn screw cap off is a royal pain in the ass. It's supposed to be tool-less but needing a pair of channel locks to get it off defeats that selling point. On the plus side, the tubing goes right in so if you use say Evabarrier running into a flare fitting, the flare fitting is unnecessary. The low profile was helpful for my jockey box cart and potentially useful for other situations.
 
Agree with @Bobby_M
I had two posts that were just ornery with the duotights but also slightly ornery with CMB disconnects. The post O-ring had "blossomed" and replacing with fresh O-ring solved the issue.
But the duotight disconnects are definitely tighter.

Post orings are so cheap that I'm inclined to just change them out every time I fill the keg. The main pro of the duotights is that I can stack my 2.5G kegs with the QDs attached. That's a deal sealer for me.
 
Do they work? So far, yep. Now were they worth $7.99 a pop for what you get? Its a hard sell unless all you run is 8mm EVABarrier (which I do), and didn't already have a pile of the regular style MFL disconnects.
I am in the process of replacing my lines with EVABarrier. I do already have a number of MFL disconnects. I lost about a gallon of beer with one of the "Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x 1/4 in. Flare" adaptors. I am not a huge fan of the idea of a piece with plastic threads that fits onto metal threads. Maybe if I just attached them once they would work fine, but I like to unscrew them for cleaning. I could tell when I screwed the adaptor on that it was not quite right, but I did not want to crank too hard on the plastic piece. It seemed fine at first.

After that incident, I picked up some more of the one piece disconnects. Hopefully they last as long as my CMB disconnects, but the plastic feels a bit less durable. The EVABarrier line is great.
 
I was curious, and bought a few Duotight FC ball lock disconnects for testing. As others here, I found them to be really tight. It was nearly impossible to get them locked on to some posts. Looks like it depends on how far down the post poppet can be pushed, because connecting the Duotight without center pin was ok.

After some measuring vs CMB disconnects, I found out maybe the center pin is slightly too long. All other measures seeems to be identical.
I cut down the center pin (in the thick end) 0.5-0.7mm. Now, all combinations I have tested are ok. I have also lubed balls and locking ring to make it move more smooth.
So far, I'm quite happy with the (modified) Duotight FC's. Remains to see how long time they last.
 

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I was curious, and bought a few Duotight FC ball lock disconnects for testing. As others here, I found them to be really tight. It was nearly impossible to get them locked on to some posts. Looks like it depends on how far down the post poppet can be pushed, because connecting the Duotight without center pin was ok.

After some measuring vs CMB disconnects, I found out maybe the center pin is slightly too long. All other measures seeems to be identical.
I cut down the center pin (in the thick end) 0.5-0.7mm. Now, all combinations I have tested are ok. I have also lubed balls and locking ring to make it move more smooth.
So far, I'm quite happy with the (modified) Duotight FC's. Remains to see how long time they last.
@KegLand might find that interesting
 
I was curious, and bought a few Duotight FC ball lock disconnects for testing. As others here, I found them to be really tight. It was nearly impossible to get them locked on to some posts. Looks like it depends on how far down the post poppet can be pushed, because connecting the Duotight without center pin was ok.

After some measuring vs CMB disconnects, I found out maybe the center pin is slightly too long. All other measures seeems to be identical.
I cut down the center pin (in the thick end) 0.5-0.7mm. Now, all combinations I have tested are ok. I have also lubed balls and locking ring to make it move more smooth.
So far, I'm quite happy with the (modified) Duotight FC's. Remains to see how long time they last.

Very interesting and I'm disappointed that I hadn't thought to compare the poppets a long time ago. It probably has a lot to do with whether the kegs have universal poppets or not. The springs on some of those are quite sturdy and long. Nice to know half a mm can make all the difference.
 
Very interesting and I'm disappointed that I hadn't thought to compare the poppets a long time ago. It probably has a lot to do with whether the kegs have universal poppets or not. The springs on some of those are quite sturdy and long. Nice to know half a mm can make all the difference.
It is all about stroke length of the center pin. The FC -construction seems to be very tolerance-dependant, e.g. how hard the top and bottom parts are screwed together.
I could have achieved the same result by:
* Thicker o-ring between bottom and top parts.
Not possible, as it is sqeezed between the two parts.
* Cut ~0.5mm off the center pin guide tube/ end stop.
Not possible, at least on the FC. It is situated inside a "cup".
Maybe on the non-FC, which I do not have.
 

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In my limited Bridgeport machining experience, using my Harbor Freight floor stand drill press, I cannot imagine thinking I'd be able to make a 1/2mm deeper hole.

Then again, I doubt I could shave 1/2mm off the post without flinging said poppet post into the farthest sawdusty corner of my shop, under the never to be used but must be kept scraps, ethereally close to the Single Lost Dryer Sock parallel universe.
 
In my limited Bridgeport machining experience, using my Harbor Freight floor stand drill press, I cannot imagine thinking I'd be able to make a 1/2mm deeper hole.

If you know your way around a CNC machine you know how to fixture stuff and pick a bit or burr that is only as aggressive as the job requires.

In this case - using my 50-something year old DeWalt floor standing drill press, an XY table clamp, and a flat top burr from my Dremel collection - it'd be a piece o' cake to dock that QD plunger a half mm :)

Cheers!
 
I'd have thought a little mark with a pen and then rub on some sandpaper would do the trick.

The engineers might not agree!
I do agree!
I just measured the original length with a caliper and adjusted it half a mm as a reference.
Then cut off a slice with a wallpaper knife and rubbed with 800grade sandpaper until the tip was 90degrees, flat and according to the new reference length.
The pin is nylon'ish. Easy to cut.
 
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