Dump Valve Size

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ColbyJack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
367
Reaction score
4
Location
Eagle River
I have a 14 gallon stainless fermenter that was given to me. Off brand/ DIY job. It has a funky threaded-on nut system on the bottom with a 1" ball valve dump. It doesn't work well, to say the least. I am going to have a TC ferule welded onto the bottom, with the more common butterfly valve, sight glass, cap set up and a stout tanks racking arm with ferule installed on the side. My question is this: Is there any reason to NOT utilize a 3" dump valve on the bottom of the cone rather than the industry standard 1.5-2" other than cost? Seems the more of the bottom of the cone that is cut out, the better the trub/yeast dump function. Thanks in advance from the frozen NORTH!
 
I have a 14 gallon stainless fermenter that was given to me. Off brand/ DIY job. It has a funky threaded-on nut system on the bottom with a 1" ball valve dump. It doesn't work well, to say the least. I am going to have a TC ferule welded onto the bottom, with the more common butterfly valve, sight glass, cap set up and a stout tanks racking arm with ferule installed on the side. My question is this: Is there any reason to NOT utilize a 3" dump valve on the bottom of the cone rather than the industry standard 1.5-2" other than cost? Seems the more of the bottom of the cone that is cut out, the better the trub/yeast dump function. Thanks in advance from the frozen NORTH!

I have a 24 gallon fermenter and I find 1.5" TC dump is plenty. Your logic makes sense but what might be gained in thorough tub removal may create a loss in extra beer. Fully open on my valve will create an unwelcomed rush. 3" might be harder to control. As you noted, price is also different for the valves but another point to add here is that if you like want to implement a clean-in-place setup you will need to pump from the dump and so you will also need to invest in reducer TC fittings and they are not cheap either.

Personally, I prefer to keep within the 1" - 1.5" diameters as they share fittings. Some items require larger fittings but when the option is available to stick with the standard size I go for it. It helps when reaching into a bucket of sani with a hose in your hand to know every clamp and gasket will work for your current needs.

Also, if you are going for these additions, I would throw out a couple ideas to think on. They may not be right for you but they work well for me.

It didn't take long for us to add an elbow to the dump line. Aside from making it easier to spray sani before opening, and easier for putting a cleaning line on, it holds a good amount of trub and yeast.

If the system can handle 2 psi, a TC ferrul on the lid can be used for a blowoff and later a hook up to a CO2 tank (TC to 1/4" threading to flare with 5/8" barb) for oxygen-less transfer to kegs. It also acts as your CIP

A port for a thermowell is worth the investment if you are having the work done. Dump, racking port (an arm is very handy), thermowell, and one or 2 ports on the lid would maximize your options. I don't know if you are paying for the work or not, but if it is cheap the ports only cost a few dollars each. That I would throw an extra few bucks at before a 3" valve.
 
much appreciated feedback! I do intend to address the lid at a future date. A thermowell has been on my mind, but not sure how long is necessary. Would a 6" suffice? I'll heed your advice regarding the dump valve and elbow. do you use a sight glass? do you just burp off the trub relatively soon after transferring wort into said fermenter? Appreciate as much knowledge as possible. Buy once, cry once.
 
3" on a 14 gallon fermenter seems huge. Probably a reason why its not done and not just because of cost.

I have two 1 bbl SS Conicals which are 41 gallons each and I wouldn't want a 3" dump valve on them. As said above I'd be afraid of beer loss when dumping.
 
6" should be fine, so long as there is sure contact between probe and well. My circumstance is a little peculiar because I brew in the conical, chill it, dump the break and pitch, then depending on the yeast I will dump again 4-10 days from the end of the lag phase (quiet time between pitch and CO2 production). I will usually warm when CO2 has slowed in production is a cleanup is needed before the crash.
 
6" should be fine, so long as there is sure contact between probe and well. My circumstance is a little peculiar because I brew in the conical, chill it, dump the break and pitch, then depending on the yeast I will dump again 4-10 days from the end of the lag phase (quiet time between pitch and CO2 production). I will usually warm when CO2 has slowed in production is a cleanup is needed before the crash.

At what height should I install the thermowell? I often do 6 gallon batches. I want to make sure that the thermowell is submerged in the wort enough to get a reliable reading. Should it basically be installed at the same level as the dump valve?
 
At what height should I install the thermowell? I often do 6 gallon batches. I want to make sure that the thermowell is submerged in the wort enough to get a reliable reading. Should it basically be installed at the same level as the dump valve?

I would put it at the height of the racking port or perhaps a little higher. Take a tape measure and see how far into the middle of the vessel you need it to go, and account for the ~2" to pass the ferrule into the fermenter.
 
Back
Top