Dubchedford's Electric Brewery Build

[Dubchedford]

I've finally started my electric brewery build, after a couple of years of researching. I've decided to build a 50A, 3 element system. I will be running a 5500w element in the HLT and Boil Kettle and then utilizing a 2000W element in a RIMS tube to maintain mash temps.

I'm basing my wiring off the PJ diagram below with a couple tweaks.



I'm adding element-on lights, but not using a timer or a power switch for the PIDs. I'm also adding a keyed on-switch, that will activate a 63A contactor in order to power-up the panel. I won't be utilizing the PJ style e-stop. Instead, I will just use a traditional e-stop that will kill power to the 63A contactor.

I will use this thread to document my build, and hopefully it will be useful to someone else as they go thru their builds.

 

[Dubchedford]

I've basically got all of my parts together, except for a few small items that I should have in the next few days.

I've pieced together everything thru several sources. For the panel, I picked up everything from Ebay, Ebrewsupply, and Auberin.

For the kettles, I'm modifying my keggles using Bobby_M's Triclover element enclosures, and utilizing his new stainless steel ripple elements. I'm planning on using his RIMS tube as well, but I haven't purchased it yet.

 

[Dubchedford]

Started working on the panel yesterday. I got everything cut out except for my receptacle holes on the bottom.

 

[Dubchedford]

I got the initial mock up of my internal panel laid out today. I drilled and tapped the panel to mount the din rails. I ended up going with the "C" shape layout that ebrewsupply uses. I figured if it worked well for him, that it should work fine for me. I should be able to start wiring everything up soon.

 

[Dubchedford]

I got a little bit of the wiring done today on the panel. So far so good.

 

[Dubchedford]

Also, got my enclosure painted up. Here is a pic of the door put back together. Just have to install the e-stop switch, it should be here later this week.

 

[jbord37]

You are my hero for not having a rats nest inside your panel. Well done so far and good luck!

 

[Dubchedford]

You are my hero for not having a rats nest inside your panel. Well done so far and good luck!

Thanks, I'm trying to keep it tidy as possible. I have a long ways to go, but hopefully I can keep it pretty neat. The nice thing about the THHN wire is you can bend it however you need, and utilizing the DIN rail stuff is a huge help.

 

[jbord37]

Thanks, I'm trying to keep it tidy as possible. I have a long ways to go, but hopefully I can keep it pretty neat. The nice thing about the THHN wire is you can bend it however you need, and utilizing the DIN rail stuff is a huge help.

Yup, I work for a systems integrator where I do mostly PLC/HMI programming and instrumentation, but we have a UL508 panel shop so I read you loud and clear on that. Wire duct also helps if you have access or the room for it but for small systems its not always necessary. The only other thing you could do (in general, it would probably help others who are less tidy more), is affix wire markers to each end to ease any troubleshooting.

Looking forward to seeing the complete job!

 

[HumulusHead]

I'm currently building a panel too. Haven't started wiring in fear of creating a rats nest ha. Your wiring looks good.

I have a question for you. You said in your OP that you won't be utilizing a PJ estop. What's the difference between "his" estop and another estop?

I bought an estop off ebay and assumed I'd wire it just like his with the resistors and fuse...

 

[JoshuaW]

I'm currently building a panel too. Haven't started wiring in fear of creating a rats nest ha. Your wiring looks good.

I have a question for you. You said in your OP that you won't be utilizing a PJ estop. What's the difference between "his" estop and another estop?

I bought an estop off ebay and assumed I'd wire it just like his with the resistors and fuse...

His estop leaks power to trip the GFCI. Other estops typically kill power at a contractor going into the panel, or kill power for all of the contractors in the system.

 

[Dubchedford]

I'm currently building a panel too. Haven't started wiring in fear of creating a rats nest ha. Your wiring looks good.

I have a question for you. You said in your OP that you won't be utilizing a PJ estop. What's the difference between "his" estop and another estop?

I bought an estop off ebay and assumed I'd wire it just like his with the resistors and fuse...

The PJ style estop works by leaking a very small amount voltage to the ground causing the gfci breaker to trip, effectively killing all power in the panel. I'm utilizing a 2 pole contactor to turn on and off power in my panel. So the estop I'm using basically cuts power to contactor coil, killing the power that way. There is pros and cons to both. This is just the route I choose.

 

[Dubchedford]

His estop leaks power to trip the GFCI. Other estops typically kill power at a contractor going into the panel, or kill power for all of the contractors in the system.

You beat me to it haha

 

[Dubchedford]

Well, I finished a HUGE milestone in the build today. :rockin:

It LIVES!!!. I was very happy, everything worked as advertised on the first startup. E-Stop kills everything once its hit, and the safety relay doesn't allow the panel to turn on if any of the element switches or pumps are switched on. I'll post a inside pic once I finish cleaning up the wiring. I ran out of zip tie anchor pads, so its a little messy at the moment.

 

[BrunDog]

I really hate to burst your fun bubble and its probably not my business, but according to that schematic, it is entirely possible to overload your supply. You can easily turn on all three elements if you are not careful, which would draw ~54 amps. This would require all three switches on and the PIDs commanding on, which is not likely but very possible if you are not careful. Since there is no on-board breaker covering the supply in it would require the panel breaker to trip, which may not happen at 54A. Chances are nothing bad would actually happen but that's a lot of juice and could stress weak connections downstream.

You might consider a 2 or 3-way toggle to deliver (or better stated, interrupt) power to either the HLT or the BK but not both.

Just my $0.02... You could probably fix this simply by adding contacts to either SW1 or SW3 and combining that into one control.

-BD

 

[Dubchedford]

I really hate to burst your fun bubble and its probably not my business, but according to that schematic, it is entirely possible to overload your supply. You can easily turn on all three elements if you are not careful, which would draw ~54 amps. This would require all three switches on and the PIDs commanding on, which is not likely but very possible if you are not careful. Since there is no on-board breaker covering the supply in it would require the panel breaker to trip, which may not happen at 54A. Chances are nothing bad would actually happen but that's a lot of juice and could stress weak connections downstream.

You might consider a 2 or 3-way toggle to deliver (or better stated, interrupt) power to either the HLT or the BK but not both.

Just my $0.02... You could probably fix this simply by adding contacts to either SW1 or SW3 and combining that into one control.

-BD

Thanks BrunDog, nope your are absolutely correct technically this panel would allow me to pull more than 50A. This might not be the correct answer from a "code" standpoint, but I plan on just not running more than 2 elements at any given time. With my current brewing process, it would never be needed. If I do find it to be an issue, I will most likely change out one of my 5500w elements for a 4500w element. I appreciate your input though. Its also very good to point that out, so that other individuals looking to do a similar build understand that condition is a possibility.

 

[bbohanon]

You are my hero for not having a rats nest inside your panel. Well done so far and good luck!

Nothing wrong with a rats nest..lol..Mine is an "organized" rats nest.. :fro:

Great job on the panel and it looks great!

 

[NautiDogBrewingCo.]

what type of power connectors are you using? i assume that your 50amp service is hardwired to your 63amp contactor... what about the power going to the elements? it looks like a neutrik connector.

and what connectors are you using for the temp probes?

 

[Dubchedford]

what type of power connectors are you using? i assume that your 50amp service is hardwired to your 63amp contactor... what about the power going to the elements? it looks like a neutrik connector.

and what connectors are you using for the temp probes?

Yes, my service is hardwired into the contactor. I'm using 4 pole (only using three) neutrik speakon connectors for the element leads. I'm using the switchcraft brand compatible chassis connector though. The switchcraft brand chassis connector comes with .25 tabs, which I preferred over the .185 neutrik tabs. For the pump connection I'm using the gray neutrik powercon connections, and for the temp probes I'm using some XLR jacks I picked up on eBay.

 

[NautiDogBrewingCo.]

Yes, my service is hardwired into the contactor. I'm using 4 pole (only using three) neutrik speakon connectors for the element leads. I'm using the switchcraft brand compatible chassis connector though. The switchcraft brand chassis connector comes with .25 tabs, which I preferred over the .185 neutrik tabs. For the pump connection I'm using the gray neutrik powercon connections, and for the temp probes I'm using some XLR jacks I picked up on eBay.

Excellent. Like these?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtAYTMy7wxAr8ZPx/M65zheSvuUzP7rN5Y=

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtAYTMy7wxAr8ZPx/M65zhe1FCATRH%2bLv8=

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV8eqc7pFHQ3iJ7SmccJN/GM=

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/D3F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV5pmAov1JWUZhM9UEN9v7w8=

 

[Dubchedford]

I'm using the switchcraft chassis connector (female end) that you linked, but I'm using the neutrik cable end. I had originally purchased the neutrik chassis connector but had problems finding 10 awg crimp connectors that would fit on the .185 tabs. Im sure the switchcraft cable ends you linked would work just fine. The xlr connector I'm using is a screw on type. I'll see if I can find the link on eBay and share it.

 

[Dubchedford]

These are the xlr connectors I used.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161157582891&alt=web

 

[Dubchedford]

Here is a few more pic of the inside with the wiring cleaned up a bit. Not perfect, but not too messy.

 

[Dubchedford]

Here is a pic of the bottom of the enclosure