Dual fuel kettle?

[mneilson]

For the last year or so I've been debating about getting a new brew kettle (10 gallon, to be used for 2-6 gallon batch sizes either with single-vessel BIAB or cooler MIAB), and I have gone back and forth about remaining with a propane-fired kettle or moving to an electric system. I really like the idea of electric brewing (being able to schedule heating on a timer, lack of unsupervised flame, etc.), but I also like the portability associated with direct-fire kettles (e.g., homebrew club group brew events). Lately I've been wondering about if it's possible to have the best of both worlds: a kettle (e.g., one of the Spike 10 gallon) with a tri-clamp ferrule placed near the bottom to allow for both:

• direct fire (with a tri-clamp cap and high temperature silicone gasket on the ferrule), and
• electric (with a removable element housed in a tri-clamp enclosure; e.g., Brew Hardware Hot Pod).

A tri-clamp enclosed element in this setup could also be used in a RIMS tube if desired as well.

Does anyone have experience designing or using a dual-fuel system like this? Any drawbacks or complications that I'm not considering?

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Sounds like you might be the "go to" designer, to include for beta testing as well........

 

[MackerelQ]

mnielson, I just recently custom built a 15 gallon Spike kettle for that exact same purpose. On the front I have two ball valve ports, one for draining and one for whirlpooling, I had the temperature sensor port installed about 6” off center from the front so I could dual purpose it for either a thermometer when direct fired or a temp sensor when electric, and had a 2” triclover port installed on the back. I purchased a 2” cap and clamp to keep the port closed while direct fired.

 

[mneilson]

mnielson, I just recently custom built a 15 gallon Spike kettle for that exact same purpose. On the front I have two ball valve ports, one for draining and one for whirlpooling, I had the temperature sensor port installed about 6” off center from the front so I could dual purpose it for either a thermometer when direct fired or a temp sensor when electric, and had a 2” triclover port installed on the back. I purchased a 2” cap and clamp to keep the port closed while direct fired.

Perfect, this is just what I was hoping to hear. Have you used it yet? How has it been working for you?

Edit: would you mind sharing your build sheet?

 

[MackerelQ]

Unfortunately, I’m still building my rig and I’m still missing some essential parts, so- no she’s still a virgin kettle. Here’s my build diagram though.

 

[MackerelQ]

I purchased one of the adjustable thermometers. With it installed into the half size port and angled forward it’s perfectly visible from the front of the kettle. The position of the half size port being 6.25” from center is just about right at 45 degrees from the center line. Being at that angle it doesn’t get in the way of the valves and it doesn’t appear that it would collide with another kettle if they were right next to each other.

 

[mneilson]

Sweet...thanks!!