Dual element boil kettle with 1 PID

[Alteruser_404]

Hello,

I'm trying to get a 1bbl system functional again as the controller that was purchased with the unit keeps killing elements and has caused enough trouble. after months of back and forth with the vendor of the system, we have had enough and are looking to just build our own unit. I've built some homebrew single element 240v PIDs but am struggling with the concept for 2 elements in one tank. The system is a BIAB style, so we don't need a mash tun or HLT to be heated, only 2 5500w 240v ripple elements. My original thought was to get 1 PID, 2 relays, and run two sets of sensor wires off the PID to the SSR, that way both of them would fire off the single PID and be controlled by one temp probe. This sounds a bit too easy so perhaps I am thinking it is more complicated than it needs to be. any help would be greatly apprecieted.

 

[doug293cz]

Sounds like you have it right. If you put together a schematic, you can post it here and get a sanity check. You can daisy chain the control signal wires from the PID to the SSRs (+ from one SSR goes to + of the other SSR, and same with - ) so you only need one pair coming from the PID. You'll need a 50A or higher circuit to power this panel.

I'd use separate contactors in series with each of the two SSRs, so that you can individually disable a failed SSR in the middle of a run.

I'd also recommend you consider using an Auber EZBoil DSPRxxx instead of a regular PID. They have a better power modulation method, and the high end (DSPR320) can do automatic step mashing (if that's of interest to you.)

Brew on

 

[dkmag]

I'm currently building a new 1/2bbl BIAB system with 2 element 50A panel based on a slightly modified @doug293cz 50A panel design using two controllers and two pumps. Here's the modified design:

@doug293cz, it would be great if you could do a sanity check on this (I just removed the second pump and second DSPR).

I would also highly recommend using an EZBoil (I'm using an DSPR120 from my old panel) as it allows easy switching from mash to boil modes and no fussing with PID tuning.

You could also use a single dual channel SSR instead of two separate SSRs. I'll be using a Crydom D2440D SSR, which is rated for 40A on each channel, I picked up on eBay (you can find these on eBay but just make sure it's the D2440D and not the D2440D-10 the first is zero-crossing and the second is random and you need to use a zero-crossing SSR with the DSPRs).

I believe Auber sells a dual 25A SSR zero-crossing as well.

Cheers.

 

[doug293cz]

I'm currently building a new 1/2bbl BIAB system with 2 element 50A panel based on a slightly modified @doug293cz 50A panel design using two controllers and two pumps. Here's the modified design:

View attachment 740213

@doug293cz, it would be great if you could do a sanity check on this (I just removed the second pump and second DSPR).

I would also highly recommend using an EZBoil (I'm using an DSPR120 from my old panel) as it allows easy switching from mash to boil modes and no fussing with PID tuning.

You could also use a single dual channel SSR instead of two separate SSRs. I'll be using a Crydom D2440D SSR, which is rated for 40A on each channel, I picked up on eBay (you can find these on eBay but just make sure it's the D2440D and not the D2440D-10 the first is zero-crossing and the second is random and you need to use a zero-crossing SSR with the DSPRs).

I believe Auber sells a dual 25A SSR zero-crossing as well.

Cheers.

Looks good, but I would modify the "Safe Start" wiring a bit to match my latest design rev (it's a little cleaner.) This eliminates the need for one of the 1A fuses. Here's the modified design schematic (all changes in upper left):

Brew on

 

[RufusBrewer]

My first thought:

1 PID
1 temp probe
2 heating elements
2 relays where the inputs are wired in parallel such that they fire on and off in unison.
2 heat sinks

I cannot think of why you would do anything different.

 

[doug293cz]

My first thought:

1 PID
1 temp probe
2 heating elements
2 relays where the inputs are wired in parallel such that they fire on and off in unison.
2 heat sinks

I cannot think of why you would do anything different.

That's all in the designs shown above, as well as some additional components to minimize chances for operator error, detect failures, isolate failures when they occur, and increase safety.

Brew on

 

[dkmag]

Great. Thanks @doug293cz!

 

[BayerischBier]

That's all in the designs shown above, as well as some additional components to minimize chances for operator error, detect failures, isolate failures when they occur, and increase safety.

Brew on

Sooo to follow up as I am looking at a similar two-element situation but on 2x 120v 1500W elements. (revamping my old boil kettle to HLT)

one PID -- two SSRs -- one ssr per element.
OR
one PID -- dual channel SSR?

any thoughts and experiences?

 

[doug293cz]

Sooo to follow up as I am looking at a similar two-element situation but on 2x 120v 1500W elements. (revamping my old boil kettle to HLT)

one PID -- two SSRs -- one ssr per element.
OR
one PID -- dual channel SSR?

any thoughts and experiences?

Makes little difference. A "dual channel" SSR is just two SSRs in the same package. Saves a little space, but proper heat sinking is more critical.

Brew on