Drying Hops in a shaded Greenhouse

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I'm trying to work out methods for processing Hops before i actually go into production to make sure there are no serious or costly surprises later. What i have is several Greenhouses that i can install portable drying screens to layer the hops on with moving fans underneath each stack. The plastic greenhouse film would have a shading material to prevent direct sunlight from hitting the hops but still allow the temps. to be in a good range above 100 degrees. with plenty of air movement. What do ya'll think about this idea?
And as far as checking the moisture levels during the process to prevent over drying, could i use a standard probe type moisture meter or is there a more specialized meter available?
Thanks in advance
 
I'm trying to work out methods for processing Hops before i actually go into production to make sure there are no serious or costly surprises later. What i have is several Greenhouses that i can install portable drying screens to layer the hops on with moving fans underneath each stack. The plastic greenhouse film would have a shading material to prevent direct sunlight from hitting the hops but still allow the temps. to be in a good range above 100 degrees. with plenty of air movement. What do ya'll think about this idea?
And as far as checking the moisture levels during the process to prevent over drying, could i use a standard probe type moisture meter or is there a more specialized meter available?
Thanks in advance

Are you using the series of screens to lay out the hops for drying? Do UV rays penatrate the greenhouse film? That may cause a problem with premature skunking as sunlight can kill hops. If you placed a tarp over it, it may work better in order to prevent that. I think the idea can be awesome since you can circulate the air through the greenhouse.

I believe the majority of the non commercial growers, like me, are using pre/post dry weights. After harvesting (I use the color, squish, and sniff method for determining readiness, super scientific) You weigh out your post harvest take, and then assume a 4:1 to 5:1 drying ratio. Too moist and they can develop burn I'm the freezer, and too dry they can lose lupulin in the bag. I've shot for between 1 lb dry from 4 - 5lbs of wet harvest, and it has treated me well so far. This is just what I go by, and it is taken from the collective knowledge of other posts. I'm sure other growers will weigh in with their take as well.

There are more exact methods of determining your moisture content, but it will require you to sacrifice some of your hops in order to determine the moisture content. I'm not exactly sure how that all works, but other commercial growers could weigh in with details. For small scale homebrewers, I would say it's not entirely necessary. If you're thinking of going pro, it's more of a necessity in order to provide consistent results.
 
The Shading material that covers the greenhouse blocks 89% of the sunlight but still allows a close range of 100 degrees temps. I Noticed that if i cool plants from the bottom up the temps linger but circulate better in the dome shaped house. I Have a bunch of 4x6 drying racks that are built from treated 2x2s and hardware cloth and will no doubt need more and i'll have to make a frame to hold the racks in a staggered pattern i'm guessing to get the air thru them.
If everything goes right we are hoping for 13 acres in hops production. I've tried vegetable production and selling on a honor pay farm stand but people just can't get the concept of "Honor" when it comes to paying. So short of wasting my time on tons of work with no results with veggies, i'm pretty sure no one is going to go to the trouble of the work involved with stealing something that can't be consumed with a knife and fork.
I Do have a large floor model farm scale and can work out a system of weighing the hops pre and post drying to get what's needed and i also have a 48 foot tractor trailer body that was a frozen food unit but the Thermo king unit is gone, so i guess i'll have either find another unit or attempt a large house type air conditioner to cool the hops after they are vacuum bagged. We have a vacuum bagging unit for 14x14 bags but i haven't been able to find the bags. I Can't find any reference as to what size bags everybody uses for one pound quantities. Lots of pictures but no info, so if anyone knows what size bags and where i can get them that would be good. Other than that i've got most of the big details worked out so far.
Here is a reference i've been reading over about drying methods that are similar:

file:///home/chronos/u-920ec1529b2b4cb53b6df7a1c92102ddd6479623/Downloads/Andrews_Solar_Hop_Drying_2-22-13%20(1).pdf

Thanks
 
Just a couple of comments for you:

UV is BAD!! Even 89% shade isn't enough. UV light leads to degradation of the alpha acids and isomerization of betas. If you don't believe that, grab a Corona in a clear bottle and let it sit in the sun for a day. Pop that top and smell the skunk. You need to pretty much black out the sun on that greenhouse.

If you are going to lay them out on trays, they will have to be at 1 cone deep so the air can get access to all sides of the cone. I've had growers got about 3 inches deep (4 to 5 cones high) and the stuff in the middle rotted. If you aren't forcing air through them, they air has to touch.

So let's say that 1 cone is 1" deep...its actually more like 1/2" but this is easier math. 1 acre should produce around 1500 lbs, depending on the variety. 1500 lbs (dried to 10% moisture content) has a volume of 1,154 cubic feet.

At 1" deep, those would need to be spread out over 13,850 square feet...or a single drying bed that is 100 feet x 140 feet. Realistically, you'll only be able to harvest 1/3 acre per day but it will take you 3 to 7 days to dry them via this method, depending on outside air conditions. So make sure you have sufficient space.

There are moisture meters built for hops. They run around $7,000 and are not really accurate enough. The typical grain meter (using electrical resistance) doesn't work unless you compress the hops 12:1 or more. But then they aren't calibrated for hops, so you are only measuring a change in moisture content not the actual value. The only real method is oven-dry moisture measurement method. I recommend using a microwave to remove the moisture as it saves time and reduces the chance of burning. You can find instructions on line to use this measure moisture content of hay and other products.
 
I keep hearing people say UV is bad for hops. I can't reconcile one question, if hops on the bine are exposed to UV for months without hurting the oils, how is UV suddenly bad for the oils once a cone is picked?

Either something changes after it is picked, or UV isn't crazy bad for hops and it is over-hyped.

If the former is true, what is that change? If the latter is true, drying your hops in the sun for 3-4 days is fine.
 
OK, I'm not a chemist but if you really want to get into it I can get you in contact or just start looking for references to the isomerization of alpha and beta acids into 3-methyl-2-butene-thiol (3-MBT).

The layman's version is this. First, those compounds don't form until very late in the cone's formation, like the last week or two before they are picked. Second, when the cones are alive, they are their own little chemical factories and you don't have to worry about skunking.

Once they are picked, thats when things can go bad. True, the cone itself somewhat protects the lupulin from UV light but why start yourself behind the 8 ball? If there is a smell before they go into the boil, why would anyone bother.

How strong can it get? I once lost 2 cones in my van (EKG) for about 4 day when it was in the 90's. By the time I found them, my wife and kids refused to get in the vehicle because it smelled so bad.
 
To OP, I wouldn't worry much about the sunlight, your setup seems great. What I would focus on is how much time it takes to reach your desired level of dehydration. I'd say if it takes between 3-4 days, you're good. If it takes 5+ to get the desired result, you may get rotting and something needs to be tweaked.
 
I Appreciate the different opinions. I'm also looking at the option of drying the Hops in a large drum dryer that is heated with Propane manifolds. I have a friend that lives in Nova Scotia that builds Turning drum incinerators for waste disposal systems and in talking with him i think i could build a large enough unit that would have an adjustable speed and heat level. I could do weight samples in intervals to check moisture levels. I'm only concerned about the Cones beating apart in the process..
 
The turning drum does introduce the potential for lupulin loss and cone damage but the heat will also degrade product, depending on temperature. Numerous tests (as pointed out in slide 23 of the previously mentioned presentation by Andrews) show that above 140F there is alpha acid degradation. Even in the 100 to 140F range that the big growers consider "optimal", there is loss of oils and aromatics...in other words the flavor...that may want to be avoided. In those studies, "optimal" was determined by factoring drying time vs. alpha acid retention, not the oil content.

We had a grower send us some hops for analysis that used a grain belt dryer (similar to your idea). He was unable to turn the heat below 160F. Not only were they shaken apart but the cones were the yellow color of straw and his Hop Storage Index indicated that they were years old, even though they had just been picked.
 
If I can give you some advice in your continued quest, with every new idea don't ask yourself, "Is this a great idea?" but ask yourself, "Why isn't anyone else doing this?" I have found the second question to quickly lead me to potential flaws of any dryer design.

I guarantee that any idea you come up with, someone else has had and maybe even prototyped but for some reason it didn't work out. It doesn't mean it wasn't a good idea, the difficulty may have been technology. Many of my designs for dryers, pickers, sorters, etc. were based on patents from the 1860's to 1880's. They didn't work then because 30 hp motors with VFD's weren't commonly available. Others didn't work because they were just bad ideas. My job was to sort through the ideas and figure out why they didn't get wide spread implementation and why.

If you really want to understand why the current hop dryers in the Pacific Northwest are designed the way they are, you have to look at historical design. You'll see that it is very similar in concept to the dryers of Kent in the 1600's. They went with what worked. Does that mean its the best? No but it works. I've found that's the case for everything in this industry...they (the PNW) does what works for them. That doesn't mean its the best or that it will work for you on a much smaller scale, but its a starting point.

To come up with our current dryer, I have built 8 different prototype with countless iterations off those basic designs. The biggest problem you will find is once you build something, you get 1 or maybe 2 shots to test it out on actual hops. Then the harvest season is over.

So to focus your efforts, first put together your list of priorities in drying and the order. Then with every design you have, run through the checklist. Here's mine:

- Does this maintain and/or improve the final quality?
- Why aren't people doing this now? Or how could this fail?
- How long will it take to go through the entire drying process and is that feasible?
- What will it cost in labor to load, unload and operate?
- What will it cost to operate in energy/electricity/fuel?
- What will it cost to build?
- Will it hold an entire day's harvest? Can I fit it within my allotted space?

When you are answering these questions, be careful of anytime you answer a question with, "I feel it should..." You can't trust feelings, premonitions or even "gut instinct". Work off of known facts and data. From there extrapolate out, but I will warn you that there isn't a lot of data out there.

Take it or leave it, this is my advice for you. I've been spending 9 years refining a dryer design that works for our farm and those growers that work with us. I'm not saying its perfect but I think its an improvement. I've seen some ideas from others that are valid and some that are just downright crazy. Keep pitching your ideas. You never know when something may work.
 
Well the only idea i have left is three 48 foot by 8ft.wide by 8ft. tall inside insulated box trailers i have with aluminum slotted floors. I was thinking i could make the drying racks with wheels to align with the grooves in the floor to enable the racks to be removed, loaded, then rolled back into the trailer that would be dark and turn on the temperature controlled heat and fans. Maybe line the the trailers up in a way to use one heater ducted to each trailer with booster fans and louvered vents in each trailer. We used to dry Tobacco in a similar manner.
I could easily convert each trailer to a freezer after drying and packaging.
This is my "last" idea. I Promise.
 
You mean, that's the only idea you have left AT THIS TIME. Keep going. As you experiment, new ideas will come.

This one isn't bad and is close to what one of my growers did. He has a Wolf picker that conveys the hops out. He has them drop into a 4'x4' box with a screened bottom. It sits on a dolly so he can push it over to his oast. The dolly lines up so he slides it off the dolly and into the oast. He does this 20 or so times and his dryer is full. You have to remember that the hops will weigh about 5 times more wet than when they are dry and he wasn't sure he could keep his teenage sons working on the farm forever.
 
Wanted to share picture from a visit I did to a local hop farm last season that was doing exactly this. They had fans mounted on the roof, as you can see. They also had those large four foot high square floor standing fans built into the side wall of the green house to draw air in (didn't manage to get a pic of that). The farm is Dutchess Hops. They are cool and will likely respond if you reach out to them. Good luck!

hops.jpg
 
OK, I'm not trying to pick on these Dutchess Hops guys, but let's quickly evaluate this dryer design using the criteria I had laid out earlier. I'll mention this is a common setup for 1st and 2nd year growers and can work well.

- Does this maintain and/or improve the final quality?

Well, it won't get above 140F in there. No alpha acid reduction. Will it get above 100F and drive away a lot of the oils and other flavor compounds that craft brewers will pay extra to obtain? It may.

Will the sunlight cause degradation of the hops? My experience is yes.

- Why aren't people doing this now? Or how could this fail?

I see 3 potential problems:

1. Labor to load and unload. It will take quite a while to spread the hops out on those beds and to gather them up. More importantly, how do you empty those beds without dropping hops everywhere? Maybe tarp on the floor with a roofrake to pull them forward? Maybe tip the trays forward? When they are dry, those hops float everywhere but are still circular enough to roll when they hit the ground. Not insurmountable problems but could be dealbreakers as their harvest grows.

2. Airflow through the hops. There are fan's pointed at the top of the beds and lets also assume at the bottom. So that means air contact with those hops but what about the stuff in the middle? Those side walls look like 1x4" or 1x6" boards. Either way, there will be a lot of hops in the middle that won't see airflow. Either they have to force air through the hop beds or they are going to have to turn them. This set up won't force air through and turning is dangerous as you may loose lupulin.

3. Space. I covered this previously in this thread but let's assume those bed are 4' x 8' x 6" deep. That is 16 cubic feet. That is enough to hold roughly 21 lbs (properly dried) of hops. Assuming 1,000 lb/acre (a bit low), that would cover 2.1% of the drying capacity for 1 acre of hops. I don't know how big they are or intend to go but that makes this infeasible.

So the big guys in the PNW aren't doing this because it would take up too much space. That's why they go with 3 to 4 foot deep beds. I'm not saying that is the best for small scale growers but it is something to consider.

- How long will it take to go through the entire drying process and is that feasible?

Assuming this is ambient drying without heat (beyond the warming of the greenhouse) or other moisture removal, this will be very weather dependent. The bare minimum is 2 days but I've seen conditions where it took 7 days. If they don't need the drying space, this works just fine. If there is another crop coming in the next day, they are screwed.

- What will it cost in labor to load, unload and operate?

Previously discussed.

- What will it cost to operate in energy/electricity/fuel?

Negligible assuming they aren't trying to heat the air with fuel.

- What will it cost to build?

Negligible assuming the greenhouse is a sunk cost.

- Will it hold an entire day's harvest? Can I fit it within my allotted space?

Previously discussed but to expand, if they are hand harvesting the rate is typically 1 hour/bine. If we assume 1 lb/bine, 6 to 7 people working a 10 hour day would pick around 60 to 70 lbs (properly dried). 3 of those trays would hold around 63 pounds. So its would be sufficient for what they have.

Is this a feasible design?

For the first two years, sure. You can do it this way though I would like to see the beds shallower and get them out of the light. If they are growing an acre or more, will this work for years 3 and beyond? If they hit proper growing marks of 1,000 to 1,500 lbs or more, they may have a capacity problem. It depends on the number of varieties, how they are picking and how much time between harvest on those varieties.
 
Awesome points! They admit that the days of guys driving around the fields in pickups harvesting with pole saws and hand picking cones off the bines are drawing to a close. I think they were at the 2-3 year mark at the time of my pics. Will be interesting to see how this year goes. I know that there is a coordinated effort amongst growers in our region to share the cost of a hop harvester. I'm sure drying techniques will evolve as well.
Hope all you growers have a way to share learnings.
 
Ha...in our classes, this is how I explain the picking process:

Year 1: Invite 20 people even though you only need 3. Everything will be picked in 30 minutes. Then you throw a huge party, roast a pig, run the homebrew, make sure everyone has a good time.

Year 2: Invite back those 20 people. 15 or so will show up. After 2 hours, 1/2 will be gone even though you remind them of how much fun they had last year. Make sure everything is picked that day because no one will be back on day 2. Have the party, everyone leaves exhausted.

Year 3: Buy/beg/borrow/build a picker and hire day labor. Your friends won't even return your phone calls.

Also, don't let your local homebrew club volunteer to help. They pick until their cargo pants pockets are full and then they vanish.
 
Honestly, it was year 2 that taught us we needed something mechanical. Year 3 we tested several prototypes. Year 4 we refined. Year 5 we sold a few to some to beta test. Year 6 we finally opened sales up to everyone.

Beware of the complications of sharing. Everyone's harvest comes due around the same time. So with a short harvest window, make sure you have a schedule worked out and account for break down time. Also watch your transport costs of bringing the bines to the picker. If its a wolf, you don't bring the picker to the field.
 

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