Does any ine do this?? Ive been doing this instead of dry hoping during secondary. Although im not sure if there is any benefit or detriment to doing this. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Tia
Ken
Tia
Ken
AZ_IPA said:I use 1-gallon paint strainer bags; tied and hung mid-way into the keg with non-flavored dental floss.
Dont just throw em in, might be obvious but just in case you were thinking "oh, no bag, ill just throw em in". You will clog the beer out tube and need to rack to another keg. I did this in 6 kegs at once and i learned a great and noble lesson
I have these beauties in all my kegs. I try to dry hop with whole hops but have used small amounts of pellets too. These things are your answer.
I've never had my beer turn 'grassy' from dry hopping in a keg, but a keg doesn't last more than 3 weeks in my house anyway.
One plus of bagging hops in the keg, you can pull the old bag and replace the hops should the keg last that long. I've never needed more than an ounce or two at a time.
I have a Surescreen in one keg, but that gets used for blackberry cider.
anyone have any problems with that screen for pellet hops? NB says they are more prone to clogging than whole leaf
terrapinj said:anyone have any problems with that screen for pellet hops? NB says they are more prone to clogging than whole leaf
I've been dry hopping in the keg since I started kegging, but am now switching up.
I used to leave the hops in until the keg kicked, which for me is usually at least 2 months. I noticed my aroma and flavor were turning for the worse. With 2 oz cascade leaves I got bright floral aroma for about 2 weeks. After that it became predominantly orange in flavor, more like I was using orange rinds instead of hops.
I'm experimenting with 2 IPAs currently, using a 10 day primary dry hop, then a second dry hop in the keg with nylon bags (at room temp). After 10 days remove hops and serve. If my aroma fades before the keg kicks I'll dry hop again, always making sure to remove the hops before 2 weeks.
calpyro said:I have also had struggled with a degradation of hop flavors.
During a club meeting at Russian River, I asked the brewer for some tips on dry hopping. He gave two tips to try.
The first was to get the hops off of the beer as soon as the beer starts tasting grassy. For me, I start getting off-flavors at around 10-14 days depending on the temp that the beer is dry hopping. I have now expanded that thought to transfer the beer to another keg at around 7 days, but I have increased the amount of hops that I use. For me more hops for a shorter time gives a big hop flavor without the harshness that occurs with a longer contact time.
The second made a big difference in the long-term flavor stability of the beer. He thought that I was oxidizing the beer with the dry-hop addition due to the air in the hop cones.
Essentially, I focused on eliminating the O2 in the hops by purging the keg with CO2 and metabolizing it through yeast activity. He recommended that when I add the dry-hop addition to add a small charge of sugar to "cask condition" the beer. His theory was any O2 left in the hops would be metabolized by the renewed yeast activity fermenting the sugar.
Purging alone did not solve the problem. But when I tried the advice of adding sugar, my beer stayed fresh with bright hop flavors for a much longer time. This was one of the biggest improvements in my hoppy beers.
I use 1/4 cup of sugar per keg boiled in a cup of water at the same time I add the dry hops. At around 7 days, I chill it to 34 degrees and transfer to a fresh keg.
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