Drilling in SS

[bracconiere]

i'm sure this has been covered here

(i did search and saw to use a step bit for drilling)

But just to refresh the topic...

I got a 60L SS milk can for fermenting, and now seriously considering all the fancy stuff. like closed transfers, carbonating WHILE fermenting....the hard core stuff...

But how would i mount the posts? i saw to drill the holes for them to use a step bit...

anyone willing to make figuring out how to mount them easy for me?


in the past i've always kinda considered fermenters disposable items....

 

[Barbarossa]

I believe the tool you need is a "Knockout punch"

 

[IslandLizard]

All I know is that the SS material those milk cans are made from is very thin. It's probably not drillable without causing irreparable damage to it.

 

[day_trippr]

Solving for a liquid dip tube might be the biggest challenge here.
Aside from a welded adapter like this I don't know what's out there that would work...

Cheers!

 

[Barbarossa]

Maybe a weldless triclamp could work

 

[bracconiere]

All I know is that the SS material those milk cans are made from is very thin.

i assure you this milk can is about the same thickness as my boil kettle....boss just dropped off a working drill to me, $25 ain't bad...


but what i'm interested in is how to attach the gas and bev posts? what thread size, and all that?

i planed on using a floating dip tube for the bev post? would that not work?

i started reading the "how to make a closed transfer with fermonster for cheap" thread...but the first just told me i'd need a drill bit, lol....not how he actually connected the posts to the lid...

that was you wasn't it @Dgallo ? trying to do the same with a big SS lid.....(sorry if i'm asking something you already covered there, but it's like 20 pages long, and at 40 posts a page...)

 

[Dgallo]

that was you wasn't it @Dgallo ? trying to do the same with a big SS lid.....(sorry if i'm asking something you already covered there, but it's like 20 pages long, and at 40 posts a page...)

Wasn’t me, as I use PET fermenters. I have drilled into the caps of fermonsters and the door of my refrigerator/kegerator but that’s it lol

 

[bracconiere]

i think all i'd need is the right size threaded pipe, couple hex nuts for it....and of course some o-rings or silicone washers....

 

[bracconiere]

Wasn’t me, as I use PET fermenters. I have drilled into the caps of fermonsters and the door of my refrigerator/kegerator but that’s it lol

yeah...i saw that...which means it's even MORE relevant...because welding would actually be an option here.....

 

[bracconiere]

i appreciate the help guys...bulk head post is the keyword to search for! found it on morebeer

https://www.morebeer.com/products/b...XGkj1QHZKWzG5UOQ5pAhNUG_uSaoAabxoCyxoQAvD_BwE

so this is going to probably end up being a heavy duty SS fermenter with presure ferment and all that for $200....but not conical. (that includes the QDs i'll need to hook it up to a keg and tubing....

 

[IslandLizard]

Where are you going to drill? In the lid for an airlock or in the side, for a spigot?

 

[bracconiere]

Where are you going to drill? In the lid for an airlock or in the side, for a spigot?

the lid is 10-3/4"s wide, so i was thinking, both a gas and bev post bulkhead. and a torpedo floating buoy....then just hook it up to my dual regulator on my carbonating side....grab a couple bav QDs and some flare nuts, transfer from the floating dip tube to the bev post of a keg...should work? i think? and a spunding valve too....


hmmmm, maybe three spunding valves...that way i can transfer when the yeast first drops, but still active enough to push it? then let it finish fermenting two kegs with spundings? all new to me ideas!

edit: your like got me thinking, if i do it this way, can i use 40-45psi, in the fermenter, and a spunding at a non foamy pressure to push it into the keg? like if i don't change my burst carb pressure at 45 psi...but have a spunding at like 15psi? or 30? is there a chart.....damn, floating dip tube hosing!!!! if my floating dip tube had enough length for 45psi, all is well!!!! LOL i love brilliance like this!

 

[crazyjake19]

Get a knockout punch for whatever size finished hole you need, then use any drill bit suited for metal for the size of the threaded rod part of the knockout.

 

[PCABrewing]

What I can add here is; Keep the drill speed low when drilling SS.
Too fast and you build heat very quickly and will toast your bit and render it useless.
I use cobalt bits but they are still intolerant of heat.

 

[bracconiere]

What I can add here is; Keep the drill speed low when drilling SS.
Too fast and you build heat very quickly and will toast your bit and render it useless.
I use cobalt bits but they are still intolerant of heat.

LOL, PCA....you found me! another round on me!

so you disagree with the step bit idea?

edit: and damn, supposed to use oil too, for the drilling...thanks! so like step bit, some veg oil?

 

[PCABrewing]

LOL, PCA....you found me! another round on me!

so you disagree with the step bit idea?

edit: and damn, supposed to use oil too, for the drilling...thanks! so like step bit some veg oil?

No disagreement at all.
I think they are a great idea.
Oil provides some cooling and also helps prevent galling on thicker material.

 

[bracconiere]

No disagreement at all.
I think they are a great idea.
Oil provides some cooling and also helps prevent galling on thicker material.

going to be a month or so until this thread is finalized, but i got the more beer cart loaded. i'll buy a step bit, got veg oil, for smooth insertion...new drill....

just need an answer, or use MY OWN brain....to reverse enginier exactly how much resistance i need to fill a keg with 45 psi without it foaming up on me...just gotta look at the line length balancing stuff, and figure how many seconds i guess....reverse engineer from that.....

 

[Jhedrick83]

I just drilled a hole in a SS lid for a steam slayer. I used this thing with a generous application of 3 in 1 oil:

Drill Bit | 42 mm Hole Saw

Low speed and slow and I got a perfect hole out of it. I didn’t even need to clean up the edges. Make sure you make a good indentation with a nail or something so there’s a dip for the bit to rest in as you start.

 

[bracconiere]

I just drilled a hole in a SS lid for a steam slayer. I used this thing with a generous application of 3 in 1 oil:

Drill Bit | 42 mm Hole Saw

Low speed and slow and I got a perfect hole out of it. I didn’t even need to clean up the edges. Make sure you make a good indentation with a nail or something so there’s a dip for the bit to rest in as you start.

that's one mean looking hole saw! i'll have to google something smaller for a ball lock post though....

 

[user 298779]

I just drilled a hole in a SS lid for a steam slayer. I used this thing with a generous application of 3 in 1 oil:

Drill Bit | 42 mm Hole Saw

Low speed and slow and I got a perfect hole out of it. I didn’t even need to clean up the edges. Make sure you make a good indentation with a nail or something so there’s a dip for the bit to rest in as you start.

I’ve used this same hole saw from SSBT several times; it works great for me as do another 2 sizes I bought from them.

Good center punch into metal is necessary, then slow speed, more pressure (than say drilling wood), and lubrication (oil) - 3 in 1 oil works fine. Just take your time. Barbarossa’s suggestion for a knock-out punch is great too, but if you need to buy it…a good one ain’t cheep!

Cheers Brac…fun times!

 

[faithie999]

I love these kind of DIY projects!!

my only concern with your project is the comment about running the fermenter at 45psi. AFAIK, milk cans aren't normally used under pressure, so I'm wondering if your milk can will withstand 45psi.

do you have any idea of the mfr of the can you have? if so, I would try to contact them to see what they think the pressure rating is.

Ken

 

[Brewer Mike]

just need an answer, or use MY OWN brain....to reverse enginier exactly how much resistance i need to fill a keg with 45 psi without it foaming up on me...just gotta look at the line length balancing stuff, and figure how many seconds i guess....reverse engineer from that.....

Have you seen Beer-N-BBQ by Larry on Youtube? He's an engineer/home brewer and has created an intricate brewing spread sheet - Tools & Calculators. The "Beer Line Length" tab might be what you're looking for.

 

[Brewdog80]

Agreed, I would expect you will maybe get 5psi in that before it either leaks gas or bends one of the little clips. If you REALLY want a pressure vessel, you would have been way better buying a converted keg, or convert one yourself or just drop $5 to 800 for a real conical fermenter. $200 for this, plus $200 or so for fittings gets you over halfway there and you are still playing with a flat bottom container and pulling through a lid.
Just sayin.....

 

[bracconiere]

$200 for this, plus $200 or so for fittings gets you over halfway there and you are still playing with a flat bottom container and pulling through a lid.

the can was only $150....and i added the fittings to a morebeer cart, and it will be ~$70?


i have a a coors sanke keg, but don't like the idea of using it as a fermenter...

 

[Wolffie]

All I know is that the SS material those milk cans are made from is very thin. It's probably not drillable without causing irreparable damage to it.

agree see #2 Greenlee knock-0ut,s for electrical boxes cut quick and clean.

 

[bracconiere]

well, i got the step bits, and i'm drilling and, well the bit is spinning anyway, and i got about my full weight on the drill...it's barely even making a mark in the thing!


any other tips?

 

[MaxStout]

Step bits should cut easily, without needing a lot of pressure. Did you drill a pilot hole with a regular bit before using the step bit, or are you trying to start the hole with the end of the step bit? A pilot hole (about 1/8" or so) tends to work better.

 

[Bobby_M]

well, i got the step bits, and i'm drilling and, well the bit is spinning anyway, and i got about my full weight on the drill...it's barely even making a mark in the thing!


any other tips?

Step bits suck at starting a hole. If you make a 1/8" hole as a pilot, it will go well from there.

 

[Golddiggie]

IME, if you spin the bit too fast, and/or don't use lube (or enough lube) you'll case harden the stainless (especially 303/304) and drilling it will become a total biotch. Best way to deal with that is with carbide toothed bits (hole saw). Or a carbide drill bit (NOT cheap). Plus plenty of lube/cooling of the bit and piece being drilled. The smaller holes go easy. It's the larger holes that become an issue. If anything, you'll want to slow down your drill RPMs as you increase the diameter of the cut.

Also, with the amount of force it sounds like you're applying, you're adding more friction/heat to the bit which is making it worse. Depending on the bit you've been using, you could have already ruined it.

In the past, when I was making keggles, I used a Greenlee hydraulic hole punch. Only needed to make a 1/2" hole first (or maybe 7/16") and then use the hole punch for the final size. Getting to <1/2" hole size was pretty easy especially with a GOOD step bit (a fresh cobalt bit). Last time I drilled into a keggle, using a step bit, it was a PITA to get to the size needed for even a 1" TC fitting (1" pipe size, 1-1/2" TC connection). That's when I got the carbide toothed hole saws to use. Annular cutters are also really good to make nice holes. But most drills can't work with those due to the shank size (the ones I have are 3/4").

 

[bracconiere]

Step bits suck at starting a hole. If you make a 1/8" hole as a pilot, it will go well from there.

IME, if you spin the bit too fast, and/or don't use lube (or enough lube) you'll case harden the stainless (especially 303/304) and drilling it will become a total biotch. Best way to deal with that is with carbide toothed bits (hole saw). Or a carbide drill bit (NOT cheap). Plus plenty of lube/cooling of the bit and piece being drilled. The smaller holes go easy. It's the larger holes that become an issue. If anything, you'll want to slow down your drill RPMs as you increase the diameter of the cut.

Also, with the amount of force it sounds like you're applying, you're adding more friction/heat to the bit which is making it worse. Depending on the bit you've been using, you could have already ruined it.

In the past, when I was making keggles, I used a Greenlee hydraulic hole punch. Only needed to make a 1/2" hole first (or maybe 7/16") and then use the hole punch for the final size. Getting to <1/2" hole size was pretty easy especially with a GOOD step bit (a fresh cobalt bit). Last time I drilled into a keggle, using a step bit, it was a PITA to get to the size needed for even a 1" TC fitting (1" pipe size, 1-1/2" TC connection). That's when I got the carbide toothed hole saws to use. Annular cutters are also really good to make nice holes. But most drills can't work with those due to the shank size (the ones I have are 3/4").

well i got the hole drilled....so i'm the proud owner of another fermenter...starting the hole with a tiny bit was the key to it for me.....but it still was a challenge!!!

 

[Golddiggie]

well i got the hole drilled....so i'm the proud owner of another fermenter...starting the hole with a tiny bit was the key to it for me.....but it still was a challenge!!!

Depending on the target size of your hole really determines how easy/difficult it will be. I had assumed you already did a pilot hole first. Probably because I do that whenever I drill metals. Be that a kettle/keggle or something in the drill press or on the milling machine. I also go as slow as the machine/tool can go. The mill goes down to below 100rpm on the slowest speed. After that, it's just being sure to let the bit do the work (don't force it, unless you enjoy breaking/snapping bits).

Early on I would use normal (cobalt) drill bits for keggles and such. Part that sucked there was how they would catch on the material and want to spin the drill out of your hand. Not to mention how it could distort the hole at that point. Then I got the Greenlee punch setup and didn't have to worry as much.