Couple things to keep in mind when it comes to boil times:
* New generation IPA's (Northeast, double, triple, juicy, alien phlem, space dust, or whatever other cute names people use) and other over-hopped out of balance turpentine flavored swill... It doesn't matter what's in it, how its made, or how long you boil. If you can tolerate drinking that crap, all you will taste is hops anyway so don't even worry about DMS or boil times. Stop pretending you can tell the difference between crap domestic 2-row and Maris Otter in your 150 IBU NEIPA.
* DMS... Many people can not tell corn from asparagus notes in a beer. Some will find a corn note pleasing and nice, rather than an "off" flavor or aroma. I don't mean to be rude, but a lot of sniffers and pallets just aren't tuned to detect DMS unless its crazy high levels or the taster is used to drinking coors light and you did a light lager or other significantly light brew with a majority of pilsner malt and did only a 10 minute boil. Personally, I am not a fan of DMS notes in beer, but I absolutely love a good corn whiskey that smells and tastes like corn bread batter. Every palate is different.
* Dark beers, extreme malt forward, high percentage crystal brews, fruited, sours, super funky saison's (and anything else that will overpower any dainty tastes or aromas)... If you can detect DMS in them, you have taste buds and a sniffer better than a dog.
* Boiling will help with protein coagulation and binding. If you want that crystal clear result, do a boil that is commensurate with the type of malts you are using and their protein content.
* High heats isomerizes hop oils and infuses it into your beer. If you want to boil less, great, but you will need more bittering hops to achieve the same IBU's. Only a buck or two difference, but its worth noting.
* Beyond 40 minutes with suitable kettle venting, the majority of DMS should be vaporized and voted off the planet. Obviously do not cover your boil kettle, so it doesn't condense and drip right back in