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You make me laugh and cringe at the same time.
DIY Walk In Cooler Build
- Thread starter Irrenarzt
- Start date
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MooMooBrew
Well-Known Member
Reminds me of when I stepped on the business end of a pre nailed slat during demo of my garage.
You worked almost 4 hours with with a rock in your shoe and found this? I'm a *p u s s y* and will check a pebble out in a few minutes. Glad the HOA worked out and was hoping for a picture of the nice mexican rack instead of a bloody foot.LOL
Heal up fast and don't let that get infected.
Heal up fast and don't let that get infected.
OP
OP
Here's a better pic of the hole post clean/irrigation/disinfect:
Mexican lady that works there has a nice tight rack,Mexican lady that works there has a nice tight rack, Mexican lady that works there has a nice tight rack
OP
OP
For my buddy Tony who is watching this thread:
Irrenarzt said:
Is that the salsa or the blood from your toe?
After the third rusty nail, I got a pair of puncture resistant red wings. Heavy as sin, but they keep my feet in pretty good shape. They also don't do the horrible pucker thing sneakers do right before you get impaled.
I've just read this entire thread and I'm thoroughly impressed. I can see this going over well at my house:
WIFE: Honey, what are you doing out there?
ME: Oh, you know...building a walk in cooler for my beer.
Yeah...like a lead balloon. I've just recently been able to convince her that home brewing is legal (although I failed to mention that it was technically not legal until this year in Alabama).
WIFE: Honey, what are you doing out there?
ME: Oh, you know...building a walk in cooler for my beer.
Yeah...like a lead balloon. I've just recently been able to convince her that home brewing is legal (although I failed to mention that it was technically not legal until this year in Alabama).
OP
OP
No the salsa was not the toe blood. Sorry.
Old Vans are like a condom on your foot. The soles are wicked thin. Kind of like wearing those Vibram 5 fingers but without looking gay.
Travestian
Well-Known Member
I would think you would have felt the squishy of the blood in your sock before you finally took the shoe off after 3 hours.
Sounds like a cool build...but let me warn you, if you feel a bit of pain like you have a rock in you shoe or something...you might want to take like 3 seconds to check it out .
Travestian
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a cool build...but let me warn you, if you feel a bit of pain like you have a rock in you shoe or something...you might want to take like 3 seconds to check it out .
Pretty sure you don't have to tell him that. I think he learned that lesson the hard way...
Hoppylikerabbits
Well-Known Member
Some progress today. A bit of an issue though as I didn't know OSB can shrink. We had 3 sheets of 23/32" tongue and groove OSB underpainted with elastomeric white paint (2 coats) and pre-cut to size. On Sunday night, they fit the spot they were supposed to exactly. Somehow they shrank an inch in overall diameter between the 3 pieces since then. It did very lightly rain Monday overnight and everything was covered with condensate early in the morning (very rare to see this here). I'm thinking the humidity got high enough to swell the OSB and then when it dried all the way out (like it normally is here), the panels shrunk somewhat. A quick google search shows this as a possibility and it is not uncommon for OSB to swell and shrink. This screwed up my tongue and groove spacing so we will glue and screw down a second layer to firm it up and eliminate any potential issues. This floor will be loaded with a lot of beer so it needs to be dimensionally stable. We did manage to get some polyurethane glue in the tongue and groove so it should make for a decent base layer at least.
Top vapor barrier layer going on with some additional foam to fill/firm it up a bit:
OSB flooring in place:
New hose reel for Bimmerphiles:
Rotating handle through valve stem bore with knuckle saving extension:
CSL's!!!! LOVE IT! I actually own an M3 with a set of those on it.
Congrats on the build. Looks amazing!
OP
OP
I would have thought so too but that wasn't the case. I think the sock wicked the bulk of it up and it finally coagulated and then stopped.
As nasty as it looks, it doesn't hurt much, nor has it been bleeding.
OP
OP
So it's been a few days and I haven't done anything on the cooler as I'm trying to heal up the foot. It's getting better slowly.
This week I'm pretty busy but it looks like I'll be back at it on Saturday. The flooring came in so I need to go and get that but that's a bit of a challenge as I need to use my truck to get it and the truck is full of brush. So I need to make a dump run before I can get it but the dump and the flooring place are only open during my normal work hours.
This week I'm pretty busy but it looks like I'll be back at it on Saturday. The flooring came in so I need to go and get that but that's a bit of a challenge as I need to use my truck to get it and the truck is full of brush. So I need to make a dump run before I can get it but the dump and the flooring place are only open during my normal work hours.
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Those Bastards, are they not following this thread?
NickTheGreat
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Holy crap. Sorry about your paw.
OP
OP
No worries. We'll be back at it here before you know it.
Here's an interesting scenario for y'all to ponder. I took this pic in a friends walk in last night:
Yes that is water collecting in the bottom of the light chassis. I have the EXACT same light so either A) I need to switch to an LED bulb as that might be a bit cooler and might condense less water, or B) I need to pull off the light and seal the electrical box with some silicone as it is likely the water vapor on these models is coming in through an unsealed box. It mentions this in the instructions but I don't know if Electric Lee actually did that when he installed the light. I'm suspecting not.
Here's an interesting scenario for y'all to ponder. I took this pic in a friends walk in last night:
Yes that is water collecting in the bottom of the light chassis. I have the EXACT same light so either A) I need to switch to an LED bulb as that might be a bit cooler and might condense less water, or B) I need to pull off the light and seal the electrical box with some silicone as it is likely the water vapor on these models is coming in through an unsealed box. It mentions this in the instructions but I don't know if Electric Lee actually did that when he installed the light. I'm suspecting not.
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dang that doesnt look good. can you take the glass piece out of it permanently or would that not be a good idea?
I'd definitely use LED since it cuts heat and costs. But I'd probably seal the box too
OP
OP
Well I think you need the glass. Bear in mind, this is not mine, it belongs to some friends who also built a cooler recently that will be used in more of a commercial environment. That light was left on for over 48 hours straight. It seems unlikely that I would be doing the same.
I have a call in to Electric Lee so see if he used sealant when he installed mine. If not, I will be adding that to the list of things to do.
I have a call in to Electric Lee so see if he used sealant when he installed mine. If not, I will be adding that to the list of things to do.
OP
OP
I'd definitely use LED since it cuts heat and costs. But I'd probably seal the box too
The problem with the LED's is they aren't that bright. I need to try one out to see for myself though. At 30 bucks a pop, they aren't cheap. I think painting the inside of the cooler white might help reduce the need for a brighter bulb.
Wouldn't a hot light reduce condensation? I would think the bigger issue would be that the light isn't sealed to prevent the humid air from getting in, condensing, and then having no way to evaporate out of the housing.
Oh, yeah... subscribed!
Oh, yeah... subscribed!
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
Put a hole in the bottom of the globe.............It can be masked off ( heavily), and leave a spot to sandblast or glass bead a hole through the globe.
If you're talking "sealant" where the globe screws to the base, I don't think that will help ya', as there should be a gasket included with that type of fixture.
If you're talking "sealant" where the globe screws to the base, I don't think that will help ya', as there should be a gasket included with that type of fixture.
johnsnownw
Well-Known Member
Put me in the "add a drain to the bottom of the globe" camp. Also, I still think the LED is worthwhile. I am using the Phillips LED lights throughout my house. They are just as bright as their counterparts.
They are expensive, but they last like 23 years...and are a sealed bulb.
They are expensive, but they last like 23 years...and are a sealed bulb.
OP
OP
I think a hot light will promote a change from vapor to gas of the ambient water vapor which will promote condensation when a warm gas hits a cold glass surface. But I'm no expert either.
OP
OP
There is a gasket where the globe screws into the fixture, but there is not one where the box meets the cooler wall. The instructions that came with the light indicated to silicone the box to the wall/ceiling but I'm not sure yet if Lee did this. I suspect he did not.
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
Where the box mates to the mounting surface...........That is closed, yes?
A cast aluminum / pot metal housing?
Maybe that silicone is to help facilitate a "thermal break", which is good, but the silicone would need to cure fully before fully bolting down the housing,
( re: a gasket!).
OP
OP
There is a rather large hole in the center of the box that mounts to the cooler wall. I have a large lag bolt as we doubled up one of the lags that are holding the panels down to mount the box. I don't recall the exact layout or if there are other holes. I do recall the instructions saying something about using silicone, but for what reason (thermal break vs. sealing), I don't know.
OP
OP
I'm putting in a swamp cooler next year, whether they like it or not. I have ceiling fans throughout the house and an AC window unit in my master bedroom but otherwise no active cooling so the living room gets wicked hot this time of year.
They can chew on my left nut for all I care as I'm doing it, with or without their approval.
They can chew on my left nut for all I care as I'm doing it, with or without their approval.
Ummmm, wouldn't that, like, umm. Ouch.
Travestian
Well-Known Member
Why no central air in Arizona of all places?
OP
OP
Some older houses had no AC in the southwest. It's not unusual.
OP
OP
Today I'm finally getting back to work after the injury and a busy week of beer related activities. My foot still hurts (it's actually a bit worse healing than it was when it happened) but I need to keep on this as I have a vacation coming up next month and that'll eat up 2 weekends that I won't be able to work. Things are moving really slow without anyone willing to help. I think I've worn out all my friends except for Solar Steve who is coming down next weekend and should be able to help for a couple of days.
We had a large flash flooding event yesterday but the only issue was the OSB floor got flooded yet again, even though the doorway was tarped down well. I didn't take a picture of the flooded floor but here's one of the backyard which turned into a stream:
I really need to get a door on there so I started getting the door ready to laminate plastic outer sheeting to the foam, which we glued on the door awhile back.
I had an issue as the epoxy resin I mixed up is reacting violently with the cooler panel salvaged polyisocyanurate foam I had glued onto the door. It is currently smoking and creating large bubbles as the epoxy is working its way into the foam. That sucks as I really wanted to get the plastic glued down today. Either I can remove the foam I have glued down on the door currently, or I can wait for the epoxy to cure and then sand down the spots that have reacted and glue the plastic with a different adhesive. I wanted to use epoxy as it tends to be a good adhesive for plastic to foam (surfboards/snowboards can be constructed in this way) but I had no idea the epoxy wouldn't play well with others.
Not the best pic but you can tell it bubbled violently in this spot:
So after a few hours, the epoxy had hardened enough so I sanded it flat for quite some time. I was able to get the plastic top sheet laminated on after all:
So I mentioned the flash flooding earlier. Looks like it caused a bit of a mess and halted water flow to the neighborhood behind mine. A crew has been working on it all day:
A little closer (on the way to the dump before they close):
I cut down the kid swing as I'm tired of everyone thinking I'm a pedobear:
Yesterday right after the flood, I had 4 tons of 7/16" crushed brown gravel delivered:
Looks like I'll need some base course delivered next weekend to fix the flood damage to the driveway. You can see a little of it in the above pic at the bottom as well as in the pedo-playset pic above.
The gravel is in place just outside the shed and coolers:
Check out the flood damage just past the fence. Nasty schit. I have a ton of the flood pics if people are interested but I figured I'd try to stay on topic as much as possible.
Ended the day with some sanding of the floor in the cooler. I need to work more on that tomorrow. Ran out of steam for tonight.
We had a large flash flooding event yesterday but the only issue was the OSB floor got flooded yet again, even though the doorway was tarped down well. I didn't take a picture of the flooded floor but here's one of the backyard which turned into a stream:
I really need to get a door on there so I started getting the door ready to laminate plastic outer sheeting to the foam, which we glued on the door awhile back.
I had an issue as the epoxy resin I mixed up is reacting violently with the cooler panel salvaged polyisocyanurate foam I had glued onto the door. It is currently smoking and creating large bubbles as the epoxy is working its way into the foam. That sucks as I really wanted to get the plastic glued down today. Either I can remove the foam I have glued down on the door currently, or I can wait for the epoxy to cure and then sand down the spots that have reacted and glue the plastic with a different adhesive. I wanted to use epoxy as it tends to be a good adhesive for plastic to foam (surfboards/snowboards can be constructed in this way) but I had no idea the epoxy wouldn't play well with others.
Not the best pic but you can tell it bubbled violently in this spot:
So after a few hours, the epoxy had hardened enough so I sanded it flat for quite some time. I was able to get the plastic top sheet laminated on after all:
So I mentioned the flash flooding earlier. Looks like it caused a bit of a mess and halted water flow to the neighborhood behind mine. A crew has been working on it all day:
A little closer (on the way to the dump before they close):
I cut down the kid swing as I'm tired of everyone thinking I'm a pedobear:
Yesterday right after the flood, I had 4 tons of 7/16" crushed brown gravel delivered:
Looks like I'll need some base course delivered next weekend to fix the flood damage to the driveway. You can see a little of it in the above pic at the bottom as well as in the pedo-playset pic above.
The gravel is in place just outside the shed and coolers:
Check out the flood damage just past the fence. Nasty schit. I have a ton of the flood pics if people are interested but I figured I'd try to stay on topic as much as possible.
Ended the day with some sanding of the floor in the cooler. I need to work more on that tomorrow. Ran out of steam for tonight.
OP
OP
The utility crew worked through the night, as I could hear them through the window all night. Bastiges.
Got started with finishing up the corner trim that I stopped on when I realized I was bleeding out:
Had to do it in 3 pieces as I ruined the single piece I had for that last time I tried. Holding up long sections of corner trim you are trying to put in place is definitely a two man job.
I needed to run a bead of caulk along the door perimeter before I paint:
If I try to take a pic of the whole door frame, it washes out hard so the best you can do is a side with an offset angle. Sorry. But I'm sure it's not a stretch to envision the whole door perimeter being caulked in now.
Got the final piece of trim in above the door frame:
Again, sorry for the bad lighting.
I sanded the interior metal with a finishing sander and 120 grit as well as the floor. All I need to do now is TSP the walls then I will be ready to paint:
I still need to do the service panel but Greg has all the leftover panels at this point so I am waiting for him. I can paint and work on the floor in the meantime.
First coat of primer is up:
Got the second coat up but not the trim/corner work:
It certainly is brighter with the white color. This is just the primer but I will be painting it white with the white elastomeric so this color is a good representation of how it will look in there.
So I've decided to do a single sheet of commercial vinyl floor instead of some kind of paint over OSB. I have an OSB floor in the shed with about 18 coats of floor paint and it's not even close to smooth. I'm afriad if I go with a paint system, it'll never get smooth enough for what I want. If I spill a beer, I want to be able to mop it right up. Plus with a single piece of vinyl with some overlap up the wall (a few inches all around), you have a basically impenetrable floor which can help with any drafts etc. And did I say it's easy to clean? I have this same stuff in my lab at work and it's tough as nails:
http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/product_details_toolbox_magnify.jsp?item_id=94588
This stuff wasn't cheap and I have to pay someone to install it, which kind of blows as I'm feeling mighty poor and I haven't even lit this sucker up yet. But it'll be a nice floor.
I was going to prime the floor with this:
Because we have to skim it to get it nice and flat before the sheet can go down. The better the skim, the better the vinyl will lay.
I went ahead and primed it now, even though it's a bit early to do so. I figure I have 2 bottles so I can do it again next weekend after we paint if needed.
It's really pink, like the mexican lady's woohaa (which is more likely more brown than pink, but one can dream), or like a Hello Kitty kind of pink.
Got started with finishing up the corner trim that I stopped on when I realized I was bleeding out:
Had to do it in 3 pieces as I ruined the single piece I had for that last time I tried. Holding up long sections of corner trim you are trying to put in place is definitely a two man job.
I needed to run a bead of caulk along the door perimeter before I paint:
If I try to take a pic of the whole door frame, it washes out hard so the best you can do is a side with an offset angle. Sorry. But I'm sure it's not a stretch to envision the whole door perimeter being caulked in now.
Got the final piece of trim in above the door frame:
Again, sorry for the bad lighting.
I sanded the interior metal with a finishing sander and 120 grit as well as the floor. All I need to do now is TSP the walls then I will be ready to paint:
I still need to do the service panel but Greg has all the leftover panels at this point so I am waiting for him. I can paint and work on the floor in the meantime.
First coat of primer is up:
Got the second coat up but not the trim/corner work:
It certainly is brighter with the white color. This is just the primer but I will be painting it white with the white elastomeric so this color is a good representation of how it will look in there.
So I've decided to do a single sheet of commercial vinyl floor instead of some kind of paint over OSB. I have an OSB floor in the shed with about 18 coats of floor paint and it's not even close to smooth. I'm afriad if I go with a paint system, it'll never get smooth enough for what I want. If I spill a beer, I want to be able to mop it right up. Plus with a single piece of vinyl with some overlap up the wall (a few inches all around), you have a basically impenetrable floor which can help with any drafts etc. And did I say it's easy to clean? I have this same stuff in my lab at work and it's tough as nails:
http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/product_details_toolbox_magnify.jsp?item_id=94588
This stuff wasn't cheap and I have to pay someone to install it, which kind of blows as I'm feeling mighty poor and I haven't even lit this sucker up yet. But it'll be a nice floor.
I was going to prime the floor with this:
Because we have to skim it to get it nice and flat before the sheet can go down. The better the skim, the better the vinyl will lay.
I went ahead and primed it now, even though it's a bit early to do so. I figure I have 2 bottles so I can do it again next weekend after we paint if needed.
It's really pink, like the mexican lady's woohaa (which is more likely more brown than pink, but one can dream), or like a Hello Kitty kind of pink.
OP
OP
Normally I'd probably chillax after a long Monday at my real job. However, I read the instructions for the Henry 555 today that I needed to lay down a coat of self leveling underlayment within 24 hours of priming so I sacked up and went for it. What's the worst that can happen?
Well I didn't have the recommended gauged spreader so I used a window squeegee on the end of my paint roller stick. It worked ok but there was no way to not get it to drip upon lifting it from the end of each stroke. It was therefore a bit messier than I would have liked, especially at the door as that was the end of the line. You only get about 10 minutes of working time per mixed batch so you have to work fast as well. This is probably the kind of job you hire out but I really wanted to abide by the priming recommendations. Plus the longer I leave it, the dirtier it will get. And it hasn't rained for a few days so I better not push my luck until I get the door in.
One concern is that the contractors recommend a foam banding around the edging of the underlayment, as well as lath. See here:
http://www.noblecompany.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=93+enfl/USI=&tabid=71&mid=431
I did neither. Whoops.
Let's hope it levels out a bit more than I could get it. It is self leveling after all.
The brown Santa dropped off my bulkhead 90 degree shorty stainless shanks so that's fun at least.
I plan on replicating my keezer tap set up but in the wall:
1 nitro line with a stout faucet, 4 525SS taps, and a Keg Connection 5 tap drip tray. Keg Connection kicks huge butt by the way so frequent them if you need draft equipment. They are a sponsor here and deserve our business. They definitely have the best drip trays in the business.
I'm also moving my conditioning keezer gas manifold to the walk in, which is multi regulator, instead of that distribution block as that's going with the keezer since I sold it to Phil the Elder. That was a nice keezer (trilayer birch outside/XPS150 foam/enameled pine inside collar, extra insulation in the floor, both nitro and CO2 feeds, machined aluminum sill plates). Sad to see it go but the walk in is so much more pimpen.
Another of the tap set up:
Time for an Old Chub:
Well I didn't have the recommended gauged spreader so I used a window squeegee on the end of my paint roller stick. It worked ok but there was no way to not get it to drip upon lifting it from the end of each stroke. It was therefore a bit messier than I would have liked, especially at the door as that was the end of the line. You only get about 10 minutes of working time per mixed batch so you have to work fast as well. This is probably the kind of job you hire out but I really wanted to abide by the priming recommendations. Plus the longer I leave it, the dirtier it will get. And it hasn't rained for a few days so I better not push my luck until I get the door in.
One concern is that the contractors recommend a foam banding around the edging of the underlayment, as well as lath. See here:
http://www.noblecompany.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=93+enfl/USI=&tabid=71&mid=431
I did neither. Whoops.
Let's hope it levels out a bit more than I could get it. It is self leveling after all.
The brown Santa dropped off my bulkhead 90 degree shorty stainless shanks so that's fun at least.
I plan on replicating my keezer tap set up but in the wall:
1 nitro line with a stout faucet, 4 525SS taps, and a Keg Connection 5 tap drip tray. Keg Connection kicks huge butt by the way so frequent them if you need draft equipment. They are a sponsor here and deserve our business. They definitely have the best drip trays in the business.
I'm also moving my conditioning keezer gas manifold to the walk in, which is multi regulator, instead of that distribution block as that's going with the keezer since I sold it to Phil the Elder. That was a nice keezer (trilayer birch outside/XPS150 foam/enameled pine inside collar, extra insulation in the floor, both nitro and CO2 feeds, machined aluminum sill plates). Sad to see it go but the walk in is so much more pimpen.
Another of the tap set up:
Time for an Old Chub:
OP
OP
So I checked out the floor this morning before I left for work. It looks OK but not level enough. So I'll stop at the Despot on the way home and pick up another couple of bags of underlayment and see if I can find the proper tool. The coating I laid down last night is pretty thin so I don't think it will hurt to do it again.
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