Designing for Sanitation: How Far to Go

[benfarhner]

As I'm planning my upgrade to an all stainless steel eHERMS, I'm trying to wrap my head around sanitation and how far to take things. I see lots of talk about polished welds vs. weldless fittings, and the dangers of threads in fittings. I'm considering tri-clovers for all the couplings partially for the easy-to-sanitize aspect, but if there are threads behind the tri-clovers, does that make it a moot point?

I'm also trying to do this on a budget, so while I'm opting for stainless steel, I'm planning on doing all the assembly myself, which makes the weldless threaded fittings appealing. I couldn't really afford to do this system if I was paying a welder for perfect polished welds all over.

Basically I'm just trying to determine what is necessary and what's just nice-to-have when it comes to designing a brew system for sanitation. I'm planning on thoroughly flushing the system with Star-San solution before and after brewing; I just want to make sure that will be effective.

 

[jpc]

It's pre-boil; sanitation is less of a concern. My pre-boil stuff never sees sanitizer.

 

[cw_racefan]

It's pre-boil; sanitation is less of a concern. My pre-boil stuff never sees sanitizer.

Likewise, nothing pre-boil has ever seen sanitizer in my system. The only place you really need to worry about is post boil. The boiling will kill any nasties introduced prior to that. I do clean everything well pre-boil, but don't sanitize.

 

[mjohnson]

If sanitation is your concern, you can go weldless fittings for everything on the hot-side for sure. Camlocks make for great connections. If you feel like it, spring for 3 piece valves so you can easily take them apart and PBW them once and a while.

There is no need to sanitize mash tuns - grain contains all sorts of nasties! You are going to boil the snot out of the wort anyway. Everything on your kettle is going to be up at boiling for at least an hour. No need to stress about threads.

On the cold side, there is more room for concern. But if you're using buckets or carboys, you can replace them pretty cheaply if you run into an infection.

 

[benfarhner]

It's pre-boil; sanitation is less of a concern. My pre-boil stuff never sees sanitizer.

Likewise, nothing pre-boil has ever seen sanitizer in my system. The only place you really need to worry about is post boil. The boiling will kill any nasties introduced prior to that. I do clean everything well pre-boil, but don't sanitize.

Okay, that makes sense. You just clean everything pre-boil with water? I guess I've been a bit overzealous with my sanitizing, and got myself worked up for nothing over sanitizing this build

 

[benfarhner]

If sanitation is your concern, you can go weldless fittings for everything on the hot-side for sure. Camlocks make for great connections. If you feel like it, spring for 3 piece valves so you can easily take them apart and PBW them once and a while.

There is no need to sanitize mash tuns - grain contains all sorts of nasties! You are going to boil the snot out of the wort anyway. Everything on your kettle is going to be up at boiling for at least an hour. No need to stress about threads.

On the cold side, there is more room for concern. But if you're using buckets or carboys, you can replace them pretty cheaply if you run into an infection.

Okay, that's great. I'm planning on tri-clovers (maybe camlocks) and 3-piece valves everywhere.

I'm using glass carboys and bottles that I clean and sanitize pretty well each time.

Phew... I think I can relax now and get excited about my build again!

 

[mjohnson]

If you have threads anywhere, there is no reason for tri-clovers. You'd be adding "sanitary" fittings to "unsanitary" bulkheads. So, unless you just like them, you might be able to save some money with camlocks. Maybe invest some savings in a greenlee hole punch for all the holes you need to punch.

In any case, do whatever gets you brewing beer. Its easy to get wrapped around the axel thinking about equipment. Make wort and let the yeast do the hard part.

 

[benfarhner]

If you have threads anywhere, there is no reason for tri-clovers. You'd be adding "sanitary" fittings to "unsanitary" bulkheads. So, unless you just like them, you might be able to save some money with camlocks. Maybe invest some savings in a greenlee hole punch for all the holes you need to punch.

This confirmed my suspicions. I'm considering camlocks now because they're cheaper... We'll see. I do plan on investing in nice punches though.

In any case, do whatever gets you brewing beer. Its easy to get wrapped around the axel thinking about equipment. Make wort and let the yeast do the hard part.

Thanks for bringing me back to earth. I need to keep reminding myself: brewing is always simpler than I think it is

Thanks for the input everyone!

 

[iijakii]

Hell I don't even see the need for 3pc valves. No one even bothers taking them apart to clean them, it's a pain. They're for bling.

Cue 50x people saying they bust out their wrenches every few brews etc etc.

 

[experimike]

I only use 2 piece valves for HLT, Mash and BK. Remember, everything gets boiled anyway.

I also use 1/2" silicone tubing and stainless steel hose barbs. No leaks in 45 batches. I only use a hose clamp when I am sliding the silicone tubing onto smooth copper pipe of the CFC (that will leak without a clamp).

No latches to fiddle with, one hand operation, less cost, and fewer crevices for stuff to hide in.

 

[acidrain]

Hell I don't even see the need for 3pc valves. No one even bothers taking them apart to clean them, it's a pain. They're for bling.

Cue 50x people saying they bust out their wrenches every few brews etc etc.

I've never cleaned mine.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

There are a few places where TC fittings make sense in a home brewery. Like if you decided to hard plumb everything, then TC would be a must IMO.

For an eHERMs you should consider the TC element housings that are available. I love my brew hardware element enclosure, it makes cleaning the boil kettle easy. Not to mention moving them around for cleaning and storage. If you're going keggles then bottom drain would also be good to look at.

 

[mjohnson]

There are a few places where TC fittings make sense in a home brewery. Like if you decided to hard plumb everything, then TC would be a must IMO.

For an eHERMs you should consider the TC element housings that are available. I love my brew hardware element enclosure, it makes cleaning the boil kettle easy. Not to mention moving them around for cleaning and storage. If you're going keggles then bottom drain would also be good to look at.

Good points. I agree - were I to go electric, I'd definitely use those fittings for the elements for ease of installation and maintenance (as opposed to sanitation).

Edit to add - I've taken apart my 3 piece valves exactly once in 5 years and it was more out of curiosity than anything else.