American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

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I brewed this recipe exactly as posted in the first post. It was my first all grain brew (BIAB), and I ended up at a final gravity reading of 1.017-1.018 compared to Yooper's 1.010.

What is typically the most common culprit for not fermenting down all the way to the expected FG? I'm guessing it may be due to my inexperience with hitting the mash temp (it may have been as high as 157 at the very start).

I used rehydrated US-05.
 
mgr_stl said:
I brewed this recipe exactly as posted in the first post. It was my first all grain brew (BIAB), and I ended up at a final gravity reading of 1.017-1.018 compared to Yooper's 1.010.

What is typically the most common culprit for not fermenting down all the way to the expected FG? I'm guessing it may be due to my inexperience with hitting the mash temp (it may have been as high as 157 at the very start).

I used rehydrated US-05.
Click to expand...

The culprit is most likely the high mash temp. One fix for next time is to have some boiling water handy, along with a couple of ice cubes, so you can adjust the mash temperature right away and that should help.

At 1.017, it will still be very good!
 
Thanks for the tips. I definitely had a bit of trouble accurately determining the mash temp. During the hour mash, I got pretty different temps before/after stirring each fifteen minutes. I had the kettle covered with a couple towels and a blanket for insulation.
 
mgr_stl said:
Thanks for the tips. I definitely had a bit of trouble accurately determining the mash temp. During the hour mash, I got pretty different temps before/after stirring each fifteen minutes. I had the kettle covered with a couple towels and a blanket for insulation.
Click to expand...

you may want to rig up a mash tun from a cheap cooler that you find on Craigslist. That being said, make sure you stir the heck out of your mash right when you dump the water in and then let it sit for a minute before taking the temp reading.
 
Hi,

Could I use WLP001 instead of S-05? I have still a lot of 001 in the fridge.

Thanks!
 
Thanks Yooper! I'm ending up brewing only Yooper recipes! :D

Will do the oatmeal stout and after that this APA.

Thanks for the support!
 
I usually brew Belgian style beers but I happened to obtain Wyeast 1056 at a good price (free). So I brewed with this grain bill. Many thanks, Yooper, it turned out great! Malt forward, as you said, lots of flavor. I'll try another batch some day with the original yeast.
 
I just got done with this and I have a question. For whatever reason, at the end of the boil I was just under a gallon too much wort. So I boiled longer to get down to 5.5 gallons and my OG is 1.060 compared to 1.046 it should be according to beersmith. Something to worry about or should I just RDWHAHB?

tia,
g

EDIT: My reading was temp corrected and my hydro reads at 1.000 in plain water
 
It will just be higher in alcohol. I wouldn't consider it anything to worry about.
 
I consistently brew this with an extra pound of MO to get the gravity higher. Love the extra thickness and abv. I would not worry about being at that gravity.
 
ggriffi said:
I just got done with this and I have a question. For whatever reason, at the end of the boil I was just under a gallon too much wort. So I boiled longer to get down to 5.5 gallons and my OG is 1.060 compared to 1.046 it should be according to beersmith. Something to worry about or should I just RDWHAHB?

tia,
g

EDIT: My reading was temp corrected and my hydro reads at 1.000 in plain water
Click to expand...

I made a 1.086 version
Don't worry

Oh, and it was awesome.
 
First time I made it I also ended up with extra wort (about .75 gal extra), and also boiled down a bit, and ended up with ~7.5% ABV beer. One of my favorite brews to date. Hoppy and malty deliciousness.
 
Just brewed this on Wednesday with a few changes
6# MO
3# Vienna
1# Munich 20L
.5 # C40
.75# Victory
All Amarillo to 45 IBU's with. 1 oz Amarillo and .5 oz homegrown cascades at FO.
Fermented with Nottingham.
Missed my numbers a little...OG 1.053
Also used you primer
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460
.24 lbs. Sauermalz (2%)
1 tsp cal chloride per 5 gallons.
 
Brewed a batch this past weekend. Unfortunately, I grabbed the recipe while walking out the door BEFORE I had scaled it to my equipment profile... :smack:

And of course, Yooper's fly sparge mash efficiency is about 10 points higher than my batch sparge mash efficiency.

So to squeeze every bit out of the mash possible, I did a third running and manually recirculated (bailed) a few times before adding the third running to the BK. Also reduced my typical post boil volume by about a quart. And guess what? My SG ended up 1 point lower than Yooper's! :ban:

I was pleased with the mash results and look forward to kegging this Da Yooper's HPA!!

:mug:
 
Has anyone Brewer this with 2-Row or is Marris Otter recommended?

Also a few questions for people who have Brewer it more than once since this is a lot of pages to read through:

What is the best yeast for this recipe?
How long in primary/secondary?
Cold crash/finings?
 
arnobg said:
Has anyone Brewer this with 2-Row or is Marris Otter recommended?

Also a few questions for people who have Brewer it more than once since this is a lot of pages to read through:

What is the best yeast for this recipe?
How long in primary/secondary?
Cold crash/finings?
Click to expand...

You can it with US two-row and it'll be fine. I like maris otter (or golden promise) because it's a "warmer" malt flavor, if that makes sense. Not exactly more bready, but sorta kinda, and I like the malt flavor it brings. With US two-row, it'll still be great.

I usually leave the beer in primary for 10-14 days, then keg it. I don't cold crash or use finings, but you could.

I stopped using S05 a while back, due to it not clearing all that well for me and having some "fruity" peach esters when fermenting it cool (under 64 degrees).

I really like WLP001 and Wyeast 1335 in this beer.
 
I have some 1056 and 1272 these should be good right? Anyone else use these in this recipe?
 
So I am brewing this recipe next bought all ingredients as stated on first page and going to do WL001 for yeast.

Any suggestions for brewing this? Was thinking 3 weeks primary including a few days cold crash with gelatin. does this sound good or is 2 weeks sufficient?
 
arnobg said:
So I am brewing this recipe next bought all ingredients as stated on first page and going to do WL001 for yeast.

Any suggestions for brewing this? Was thinking 3 weeks primary including a few days cold crash with gelatin. does this sound good or is 2 weeks sufficient?
Click to expand...

I don't do a long primary, but if you do it will be fine.
 
Making ten gallons of this recipe at a flood relief fund raiser for my local LHBS today. Going to change the hops to 7 C's in place of cascade.
 
I'm thinking of using this method in place of dry hopping, Ive used it before with other beers and came out great
HOPS:
1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Mash, IBU: 5.25
1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 20.24
1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 13.07
1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 5.25
1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Whirlpool for 30 min at 190 °F, IBU: 0.95

recirculate in the mash for an hour first
 
Ive used this method several times by mash recirculating with the same finishing hop and an actual whirl pooling with a good strong pump from 200 down to 165, covered after 170, the combination has a great flavor with no stem or vine taste which I cannot stand

the key is to almost double the whirl pool hops
 
I do not doubt that at all. In fact, I would have recommended putting all of your hot hops in at whirlpool. Everyone has their own preferences, so I encourage you to do it your own way.

I will say, however, that it is generally accepted and researched that you simply cannot get the same flavor from hot additions as you get from dry hopping. It's comparable to hot and cold brewed coffee, but even more so.
 
I just brewed this recipe yesterday. I got a bit higher efficiency and boil off than expected and came out around 1.062.

Pitched WLP001 yesterday afternoon with a 0.5L starter and it hasn't taken off yet.
 
Bottled 4 weeks ago. The only thing I can say is:

Thank you Yooper! I owe you and not only for this recipe!
 
Brewing the original recipe right now with SWMBO. Everything was going good until I started the boil and my cheap burner that I've been using for the past year capped out. Off to the store to get another real quick! Thanks for the recipe Yooper, excited for this brew!
 
Fantastic Pale Ale Yooper! This was my second all grain and it turned out absolutely fantastic.

Only thing more I could hope for is for it to be more clear. This is 3 weeks in primary, cold crashed 3 days, 2 and a half weeks in bottle.



Good lacing and head retention for sure.

 
Haven't brewed in about 10 months. Have new electric brew setup ready to go and sold the propane system. Wanting a nice beer that all will like, and from what I've heard around HBT, this is one of the top recipes ever posted. I don't know what my malt and hops inventory is like, but I am sure I can come pretty close. I might have to sub some falconer's flight hops for the cascade, or see if I have some centennial. I think I have 2oz cascade, but I never fully trust the inventory system on beersmith. probably use nottingham yeast or another dry yeast. I'll have to see what I have there as well! Probably have to do a double pitch since my yeast is probably 1 year old.

Planning to post a pic if all goes well.

TD
 

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