Custom Spike TC eBIAB Build- stovetop plus 120v element

[jmrybak]

Hey all,

Just thought I would share my build as it is finally under way! Before we go any further, the reasoning behind this build: I live in a downtown apartment where I don't have easy outdoor access for propane brewing or 240v in the apartment. I started off doing 1 to 3 gallon all grain brews on my stove top, which worked pretty well. But when I tried to go 5g, the stove just wouldn't cut it, and while I have got by with partial boils (adding water at chilling and a accounting for higher boil gravities and lower hop utilization), I find the process less consistent than I would like. Additionally I felt like I was adding at least an hour to hit strike and boil temps. I also dislike disassembling threaded components, scrubbing them, and removing and replaces thread sealant (leaks in an apartment kitchen are a pain). So I wanted to design a system that would let me do 3 to 5 gallon full boil BIAB batches, preferably using as few threaded connections as possible.

Previous setup:


I have designed, ordered and received my custom Spike eBIAB kettle with all 1.5" TC connections. 4 in total: 2 at 2" from the bottom for my element, and pick up tube, one at 4" which I will use for my temp sensor (could be used for a second 120v element later if desired), and one 2" from the top lip for both mash recirculation and later to be swapped for whirlpool return.

I decided I like the integrated 1.5" TC 5500w ripple element at brewhardware. When run at 120v this yields a watt density of only 15w/in. Additionally as I'm using a single vessel, being able to remove the cord is nice. Bobby at brewhardware was also kind enough to wire up a cable for me at no additional charge. I just payed for the components and he put it all together for me.

The pickup tube I intend to order from Jaybird over at NorCal. I already spoke with him on the phone after exchanging some emails about custom parts and he is also fantastic to deal with! Great guy. I still need to measure for and the pickup tube and order it, but the whirlpool return I have and looks fantastic. The pickup tube will be a side pickup resting on the lip of the bottom of the kettle to help avoid trub carryover.

For now I have a thermowell that I will use to monitor temps with my Chef Alarm, but I will soon have a custom 120v EZBoil controller from BrauSupply with the additional relay output wired to an additional alarm. Also looking forward to playing with that... I mean dialing it in...

For mash recirculation, I have a loc line set up with the only threaded connection (via a full thread female TC adapter). It wasn't too expensive and i can experiment with it easily enough. Although I may decide to forgo mash recirculation if it becomes more trouble than it's worth.

All ball valves will be easy clean with TC bodies so I have no excuse for not cleaning after each batch. These are quite bulky but the welded TC ports on the Spike kettle are strong and I think this should work well.

So far I have test fit everything. And that went smoothly. I have also time trialed raising 7g of tap water (80F here in Memphis) to strike temp (165F) and boil with the kettle on my large coil stove burner and with the element plugged straight into a independent 120v GFCI plug. I am quite happy with the times considering I couldn't even get 7g to boil really before.

80F --> 165F in 32 minutes (35 with lid off)
165F --> boil in 18 minutes (25 with lid off)

Notes so far:

The custom Spike kettle: Spine was really responsive and easy to work with in designing a kettle to suite my personal needs. As I'm am on the stove, all connections are within 180 degrees. The heights I was able to choose with the help of Spikes experience. I got the same $20 discount on my custom order that they are doing on their standand kettles now which was a nice surprise. Overall building and shipping took about 2 weeks from my payment. Shipping could have gone better. The box arrived with the whirlpool TC poking out through the hand hold on one side and suffered a few scrapes and a very minor ding. Again VERY small and I believe to be cosmetic. But could have been avoided in my opinion. Otherwise the kettle looks great. Welds are far far cleaner than my heavy duty kettle from more beer. With no big blobs the try and scrub around. All the ports look great. Only the port I intend to attach my element to is slightly off true (angled up just a few degrees), though you'd be hard pressed to notice. The handles are comfortable, lid is solid and without seems/ rivets to clean. The positioning of the gallon markings works great with my port placement, and it seems Spike has now gone all the way down to 1g which I'm not sure the did before. Overall, very happy with the kettle. Also worth noting Spikecwas dead on with predicting at what volume each port would land which made designing/ planning much easier.



































Element: so far so good. Fits the kettle nicely. Is completely submerged by 2g. Seems to function well in initial tests. Prongs seem they may be bent slightly outward from center, and plugging into the cord is slightly tricky. But I'm not experienced with this type of connection do may just be me.

Thermowell: actually the second I bought. First was from pro flow dynamics. That one arrived very poorly packed, was off true, and had a opening too small for all but my stick thermometers. Which may be sufficient for some. But the one I replaced it with from brewers hardware stands out as clearly at better made product. So seams, straight, and with a opening suitable for my inkbird probe or any prove I have for that matter. This is completely submerged at about 3.5g or just under.

Whirlpool: fits nicely and is submerged at 4g. Solid construction from NorCal. Arrived very well packed by the way. Otherwise remains to be tested though.

Well just though I'd share my experiences so far. Let me know what you all think!

Jeff

 

[hypergolic]

Looks great. I am thinking about ordering a custom Spike kettle myself so it was nice to see what the construction is like.

Am I misunderstanding or are you trying to run a 5500w element on the 120v ez boil?

 

[dryboroughbrewing]

Looks great. I am thinking about ordering a custom Spike kettle myself so it was nice to see what the construction is like.

Am I misunderstanding or are you trying to run a 5500w element on the 120v ez boil?

Yup pretty common, heating elements are pretty much just big resistors,
so

R = V^2/P

240^2/5500 = 10.47 Ohms

so running it at 120 things become

P=V^2/R

120^2/10.47
1375.36 Watts

which is how we get to 'take the wattage at 240 and divide it by 4 to arrive at the wattage at 120'

Further we know that the element draws the following amperage

P/V = I

1375.36 / 120 = 11.46 amps

and at 240

5500 / 240 = 22.9 amps

Disclaimer: Idealized math, you'll probably draw less than this since the elements aren't exactly super precise and I have no idea if you're hitting 120 on the button

 

[jmrybak]

Yup pretty common, heating elements are pretty much just big resistors,
so

R = V^2/P

240^2/5500 = 10.47 Ohms

so running it at 120 things become

P=V^2/R

120^2/10.47
1375.36 Watts

which is how we get to 'take the wattage at 240 and divide it by 4 to arrive at the wattage at 120'

Further we know that the element draws the following amperage

P/V = I

1375.36 / 120 = 11.46 amps

and at 240

5500 / 240 = 22.9 amps

Disclaimer: Idealized math, you'll probably draw less than this since the elements aren't exactly super precise and I have no idea if you're hitting 120 on the button

Yeah, what he said

 

[hypergolic]

Gotcha, makes sense. Thanks!

 

[optimal_pizza]

awesome setup!

 

[hypergolic]

Any plans to use a false bottom? When you recirculate the mash are you using your whirlpool attachment? Will it recirculate through the bag?

Also please post pictures of your pickup when you receive it, thanks!

 

[jmrybak]

For right now, I am planning on doing a couple of batches without directly heating the mash and with no false bottom. Then I'll run some trials with recirculation and heating. I have a loc line recirculation arm that I can switch out with the whirlpool arm. It's the nice thing about having a TC fitting up at the lip above the wort level.

I'll post some pics of the recirculation arm and the pick up tube when I can.

 

[hypergolic]

I'll post some pics of the recirculation arm and the pick up tube when I can.

Thanks!

 

[hypergolic]

It's the nice thing about having a TC fitting up at the lip above the wort level.

I was thinking about an NPT port at the top, but maybe a TC would be better.

 

[jmrybak]

I think either would work. Just depends on what you want. I prefer no threads to clean when possible. And with TC you can use a TC to NPT fitting if needed, which I find to be less obtrusive than the reverse.

 

[hypergolic]

I think either would work. Just depends on what you want. I prefer no threads to clean when possible. And with TC you can use a TC to NPT fitting if needed, which I find to be less obtrusive than the reverse.

Yep that was my thinking also, going to go TC on all of the ports. Thanks!

 

[cdug619]

Looks great. I am thinking about ordering a custom Spike kettle myself so it was nice to see what the construction is like.

Am I misunderstanding or are you trying to run a 5500w element on the 120v ez boil?

I worked with them on a 3 15 gal. kettle electric setup and they were awesome to work with. I chose them specifically because of the customization option. Was happy to see my original idea of a design was very similar to what they recommend. Taking their advice on a few changes I am very very happy with the finished product. One of these days (I have no space at the moment), I'll put it all together.

 

[BeardedBrews]

You may want to consider a trub dam for your pickup tube if you are still in discussion on that part. A fairly slow (gravity) drain helps quite a bit, but that extra wall is nice.

 

[jmrybak]

I worked with them on a 3 15 gal. kettle electric setup and they were awesome to work with. I chose them specifically because of the customization option. Was happy to see my original idea of a design was very similar to what they recommend. Taking their advice on a few changes I am very very happy with the finished product. One of these days (I have no space at the moment), I'll put it all together.

They are great to work with over at Spike, as has Jay from NorCal been. You should definitely post when you get your set up built out!

You may want to consider a trub dam for your pickup tube if you are still in discussion on that part. A fairly slow (gravity) drain helps quite a bit, but that extra wall is nice.

I have seen at least one SS Brewtech v. Spike side pickup show a noticable advantage to the Spike setup. So I intend to use a side pickup tube (on order from NorCal) after whirlopp chilling to pile most the trup in the center of the basin at the bottom of the kettle.

 

[jmrybak]

Any plans to use a false bottom? When you recirculate the mash are you using your whirlpool attachment? Will it recirculate through the bag?

Also please post pictures of your pickup when you receive it, thanks!

Here's the mash recirculation arm I'm planning on trying out.

 

[jmrybak]

Got my pickup tube cut and fitted. Nice and close and right over the lip. As close to perfect as I could hope.







And I now have my custom EZBoil DSPR300 controller from BrauSupply.

 

[hypergolic]

That pickup looks great. Your TC is a 1.5 inch that is 2 inches from the bottom to the center of the TC, correct? Any idea on how much wort will be left in the kettle with that pickup?

 

[woo_pig]

Yup pretty common, heating elements are pretty much just big resistors,
so

R = V^2/P

240^2/5500 = 10.47 Ohms

so running it at 120 things become

P=V^2/R

120^2/10.47
1375.36 Watts

which is how we get to 'take the wattage at 240 and divide it by 4 to arrive at the wattage at 120'

Further we know that the element draws the following amperage

P/V = I

1375.36 / 120 = 11.46 amps

and at 240

5500 / 240 = 22.9 amps

Disclaimer: Idealized math, you'll probably draw less than this since the elements aren't exactly super precise and I have no idea if you're hitting 120 on the button

Ohms Law

 

[jmrybak]

That pickup looks great. Your TC is a 1.5 inch that is 2 inches from the bottom to the center of the TC, correct? Any idea on how much wort will be left in the kettle with that pickup?

You got it. I havent measured the deadspace with the side pickup yet. Can do that in my nect test. I know that a similar pikup setup (without the angled cut to match the bottom contour) in the 15g kettle leaves behind 3.5 quarts. So I anticipate around 2 to 2.5 trub and hop laden quarts. Which is pretty much how I spec my recipes based on brewing classic styles.

 

[jmrybak]

Mash recirculation testing:

 

[hypergolic]

How do you like the controller? I was looking at picking up the Bräu SV120.

 

[jmrybak]

So far I have only run water tests. But the controller gets you to temp well and holds you there too. The pump control switch is nice. I had BrauSupply upgrade this unit to the DRPR300 and add a buzzer and alarm on/ off switch. So far I'd have to recommend skipping that. The switch doesn't appear to do anything and the buzzer only appears to function with relay 1, meaning it cannot be set off by timers.

I hope Brau supply gets back to me and I can get those features working. But otherwise just skip the add on and the base controller works well.

 

[hypergolic]

So far I have only run water tests. But the controller gets you to temp well and holds you there too. The pump control switch is nice. I had BrauSupply upgrade this unit to the DRPR300 and add a buzzer and alarm on/ off switch. So far I'd have to recommend skipping that. The switch doesn't appear to do anything and the buzzer only appears to function with relay 1, meaning it cannot be set off by timers.

I hope Brau supply gets back to me and I can get those features working. But otherwise just skip the add on and the base controller works well.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[jmrybak]

That pickup looks great. Your TC is a 1.5 inch that is 2 inches from the bottom to the center of the TC, correct? Any idea on how much wort will be left in the kettle with that pickup?

Just completed a water only test with the dip tube in place. About 1550mL left in the kettle after draining. So just a bit over 1.6 quarts for you imperials. I'm very happy with that myself.

 

[hypergolic]

Just completed a water only test with the dip tube in place. About 1550mL left in the kettle after draining. So just a bit over 1.6 quarts for you imperials. I'm very happy with that myself.

Thanks for the update, I can live with that.

 

[hypergolic]

Where did you get the mash recirculation arm? Also what type of tri clamp fitting are you using for it? 1/2" NPT? Thanks!

 

[jmrybak]

Where did you get the mash recirculation arm? Also what type of tri clamp fitting are you using for it? 1/2" NPT? Thanks!

Sorry for the delay! The loc line itself i got from amazon prime. great price and fast/ free shipping

loc line arm

loc line recirculation jets

loc line tool (highly recommended)

Then I use a 1.5" TC to full 1/2" NPT threaded adapter which can be found through both Jay at NorCal and Bobby at brewhardware. I have the brewhardware version where the threaded 1/2" tube is shorter on each end.

 

[jmrybak]

Awesome, thanks!

I made a pale ale with my friend using the new set up yesterday. Wound up being the smoothest brew day I have ever had. Also the fastest. Right around 5 hours from heating strike water to cooled wort in the fermenter.

The Brau Supply controller (with the buzzer problems solved by a quick wire swap) performed admirably. With recirculation, the mash temp stayed dead on for the entire hour. I had the buzzer set to alarm if even 1 degree off, and a few times it sounded, but only for a few seconds. I even used the controller and element (no stove) to mash out (17F raise) without any issue.

Boiling with the element and my stove burner was a breeze to. I think 80% on the emelent with the burner on high gets me from 7.25g to 6.5g or so in 60 minutes.

So far I am a very happy brewer!

 

[Galaxy_007]

I really like your setup. Had a few questions about your dip tube and whirlpool arm from Jaybird.

Do you recall what the dimensions were of this dip tube before you cut it?http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Dip-Tube-1.5-Inch-x-1.5-Inch-x-.5-Inch.html

Standard length is 3 inches and standard height is 3 5/8

What did you use to cut the dip tube and at what angle did you cut it?

Also for the Whirlpool arm you stated the height was 10 inches, but do you recall the length? ... 2 1/8 is the default.

I am looking to design something similar so any help on the dimensions would be huge.

 

[jmrybak]

I really like your setup. Had a few questions about your dip tube and whirlpool arm from Jaybird.

Do you recall what the dimensions were of this dip tube before you cut it?http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Dip-Tube-1.5-Inch-x-1.5-Inch-x-.5-Inch.html

Standard length is 3 inches and standard height is 3 5/8

What did you use to cut the dip tube and at what angle did you cut it?

Also for the Whirlpool arm you stated the height was 10 inches, but do you recall the length? ... 2 1/8 is the default.

I am looking to design something similar so any help on the dimensions would be huge.

What I am using as the diptube is actually the NorCal whirlpool return so it is 2 and 1/8" long not the 3" that comes standard with the TC "diptube". I ordered it 5" tall then cut back and inch or so, then cut the angle to match the kettle bottom.

I cut this with a little hand hacksaw and a dremel tool. Worked well enough.

The whirlpool arm is 10" tall and the standard 2 1/8" long. This length hugs the kettle wall nicely.

Hope it helps!

 

[Galaxy_007]

Much appreciated. I am doing a 15 gallon version. I order the same two items only did the whirlpool arm 13 inches instead of 10.

I was planning a similar design, but your post inspired me to move the whirlpool port up higher, so it could potentially be used for a recirc arm. Also, added the heater port based on your post.

Thanks for getting back to me.

 

[jmrybak]

Much appreciated. I am doing a 15 gallon version. I order the same two items only did the whirlpool arm 13 inches instead of 10.

I was planning a similar design, but your post inspired me to move the whirlpool port up higher, so it could potentially be used for a recirc arm. Also, added the heater port based on your post.

Thanks for getting back to me.

Glad to hear it helped. Be sure to share your setup pics here or in the custom Spike thread when you are done!

As a bonus, on my last brewday I used my whirlpool arm to recirculate during the mash, and it was awesome. No cavitation issues, held mash temp perfectly with my EZBoil controller. You just need to put your BIAB- bag in, then pull a small part of it down to install the whirlpool arm into the bag. I just use video clips to hold the bad in place and off of the element. Pictured below:

I have also been using the locline return for a CIP sprayer at the end of the brew day.

 

[epratt]

Glad to hear it helped. Be sure to share your setup pics here or in the custom Spike thread when you are done!

As a bonus, on my last brewday I used my whirlpool arm to recirculate during the mash, and it was awesome. No cavitation issues, held mash temp perfectly with my EZBoil controller. You just need to put your BIAB- bag in, then pull a small part of it down to install the whirlpool arm into the bag. I just use video clips to hold the bad in place and off of the element. Pictured below:

I have also been using the locline return for a CIP sprayer at the end of the brew day.

Which of these two setups (whirlpool arm vs locline) do you prefer your mash recirculation setup? Looking at building a very similar setup and had been debating whether the whirlpool arm would be sufficient for recirculating.

 

[jmrybak]

Which of these two setups (whirlpool arm vs locline) do you prefer your mash recirculation setup? Looking at building a very similar setup and had been debating whether the whirlpool arm would be sufficient for recirculating.

I have only brewed two batches with this set up so far. One batch with each recirculation setup. Both were lower gravity (1.04- 1.05) and done as full volume BIAB. I have no screen or false bottom. The bag was simply held above the element with binder clips as pictured.

In these two batches, the whirlpool arm worked flawlessly. I added the grains let soak at temp for 10 minutes, then started the recirc. The pump was very happy at about 1/2 way open on outflow. I did not need to stir or stop the pump once. I did check the grain "bed" with my mash spoon and it appeared as though everything was more or less in a uniform suspension.

In the loc line batch, things went okay, but not quite as flawless. In this batch I did not let the grains soak for 10 minutes though, so not totally the same. I also tried a couple pump outflow settings and slower was definitely better. Stirring every 10min or so did seem to be required though as a bed of grain would form at the bottom and the flow through the bag could not keep up with the pump (cavitation). Stirring occasionally did fix this.

Next batch will definitely be the whirlpool arm recirc though. This time in a slightly larger porter.

 

[TexasWine]

Curious, did you notice any efficiency differences in the two recirculation approaches (Locline vs whirlpool)?

 

[jmrybak]

Curious, did you notice any efficiency differences in the two recirculation approaches (Locline vs whirlpool)?

I have really only done 2 brews, one of each so far, with this system. So strictly anecdotal evidence. But, IIRC, the whirlpool arm method gave me just under 80% mash efficiency (wound up 72% brewhouse efficiency). I got slightly less from the locline setup (I don't recall the exact number but not less than 65% brewhouse).

But, I am very much still learning my new system so not really a fair comparison.

 

[jmrybak]

Just thought I'd post a quick update for anyone interested. I have now brewed 4 batches with the new set up and could not be happier. Brews have included a grissete, pale ale, porter, and scottish 70 schilling. All have been a breeze.

Current mashing process includes adding grain to full 7g of strike water, mixing to wet, then letting stand for 10 min or so before beginning recirculation through the whirlpool arm. I have yet to have any problems with cavitation or restricted flow. The BrauSupply EZBoil keeps me dead on my mash temp the whole time. I then mash out by simply adjusting the setting on the controller. Then I remove the bag, squeeze, rinse lightly with an additional 0.25g or so (brings total pre boil volume to just over 7g), then place my kettle on the stove burner and set to boil mode on the controller. Once at a boil, 85% on the 120v element plus my stove coil on full gets me an excellent rolling boil with a final volume transferred to the fermenter of 6g. I use a hop sack only off using a larger amount of hops, and whirlpool chill (takes less than 15min to reach 75 or so with 70ish tap water).

For all batches I have had a measured mash efficiency of 72-75%. So right about what I want to use BCS and CYBI recipes without modifications.

Highly recommend pretty much all the components for a relatively hassle free all grain, 120v electric, brew day in a single vessel. Which in my 750sqft downtown apartment is just what I needed.

A couple more mashing photos:

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

The system looks great! I think I may have gone with all TC connections if I had seen this thread before I ordered my Spike kettles. I'm not sure if I would have, but I should have given all TC clamps due thought.

beer looks great!

 

[Ashevillain]

Hey jmrybak, what a sweet rig! I bought a similar custom kettle from spike recently. I'm looking in to doing the same thing you are, but with a 15gal kettle and 10 gallon batches when desired.

My kettle:

15 Gal

• 1.5 tc at 180 2" from bottom
• 2 full npt at 2" from bottom
• half npt at 2" from bottom
• full npt at 2" from top

I originally planned to do 240v due to the volumes, and maybe I will end up doing this still because the laundry room with the dryer outlet is where all my brew equipment/keezer resides(beer>laundry). But getting gfci installed or doing it myself seems like a very bad idea for someone who's renting, unless I can convince the landlord to pay for it. I'll ask once I've researched all options but its unlikely.

In the event that I cant make that happen, my options are to either wait it out and brew with propane/cooler until I live in a place with 240v gfci, or go the 120v route. If I can use a stovetop or induction burner paired with a 120 to the same effect as I would get with 240v on 10gal batches, this could the most flexible option for me.

I'm really glad I found this thread, everything about your rig seems tuned in and on point. Love the locline CIP even though that wasn't its intended use. Its not easy to clean my 15 gal kettle indoors and I live upstairs with the only outdoor hose 50+ yards away. Great way to save water too.

Do you use the stove to heat your strike water or just for boiling? I'd imagine the 120 element alone would have a pretty rough time with 10gal batch preboil volumes.