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Hi, this does not work . Is it possible to share a running zipped image of craftbeerpi3 ( B v1.2 board)
If not I will keep investigating but sometimes it works and... don’t after reboot
 
Still able to access CBPi3 after some reboot ? No in my current install ( done following the movie above)

edit: finally up & running thanks to facebook group & Miha Zivkovic:

I did :

1. $ git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3
This will download (clone) the software to your local Raspberry Pi.

2. Install WiringPI

○ $ sudo apt-get purge wiringpi
○ $ hash -r
○ $ sudo apt-get update
○ $ sudo apt-get upgrade
○ $ git clone https://github.com/WiringPi/WiringPi
○ $ cd WiringPi
○ $ ./build

3. $ cd /home/pi/craftbeerpi3 to navigate into the craftbeerpi3 folder. (you are now in the folder craftbeerpi3)

4. sudo ./install.sh (Don't select wiringPI)
 
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Bit of a question regarding elements.

I’m in limbo at the moment, in regards to what I’m doing with my current house, selling it, keeping it to rent, staying.

I currently have a 15amp 240v circuit that I use for brewing, but 3600w is not enough for my new 95L 1V system. My options are 4500w or 5500w

I would like to put a 5500w element in, but that would require me to get new heavier wiring installed rather than just an upgraded circuit breaker and new 20amp faceplate to run the 4500w. Cheap 5min job vs more cost.

My question, can I get the 5500w and set cbpi to use it at a max of 80% via pwm to use it on the 20amp circuit? (ie set a hard ceiling, so it never uses 100%)

If I move, I will get a 30amp installed, but being able to set it up to work now on a 20amp would save me from having to buy 2 seperate elements.
 
boggy62000 said:
Still able to access CBPi3 after some reboot ? No in my current install ( done following the movie above)

edit: finally up & running thanks to facebook group & Miha Zivkovic:

I did :

1. $ git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3
This will download (clone) the software to your local Raspberry Pi.

2. Install WiringPI

○ $ sudo apt-get purge wiringpi
○ $ hash -r
○ $ sudo apt-get update
○ $ sudo apt-get upgrade
○ $ git clone https://github.com/WiringPi/WiringPi
○ $ cd WiringPi
○ $ ./build

3. $ cd /home/pi/craftbeerpi3 to navigate into the craftbeerpi3 folder. (you are now in the folder craftbeerpi3)

4. sudo ./install.sh (Don't select wiringPI)
Click to expand...


I love you.

I've never done crap like this, got everything wired and was just following the install guide and ran into the issue with this.
 
I can't seem to get any of the GPIO pins to talk. I've tried setting them, rebooting the program, rebooting the raspi. I'm sure I have the GPIO numbers correct on my pumps. I know the relay is being fed 5volts, and I know the AC wiring is correct.

Might have an issue with wiringpi?

With the pump turned on in the GUI, GPIO 24, I'm getting no voltage to ground. If the GPIO is "turned on" I should be getting 5 volts if I'm not mistaken?

This is craftbeerpi 2.2
 
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What do you see on GPIO24 when it is not "turned on"?
Many if not most brewing applications that intend to drive relays have the control GPIO pins configured as "Low Active" (ie: they'll read close to GND when the attached device is supposed to be "On", and 3.3V when the device is supposed to be "Off")...

Cheers!
 
I have no voltage from GPIO24 to ground when turned "On" in craft beer pi. The voltage is the same when it's off. The software doesn't seem to be affecting the hardware.

Am I right to assume that craftbeerpi talks to wiringpi to set paramaters? If so maybe thats where the issue is.

I don't do software, just kind figuring stuff out as I go along.
 
phoenixs4r said:
I can't seem to get any of the GPIO pins to talk. I've tried setting them, rebooting the program, rebooting the raspi. I'm sure I have the GPIO numbers correct on my pumps. I know the relay is being fed 5volts, and I know the AC wiring is correct.

Might have an issue with wiringpi?

With the pump turned on in the GUI, GPIO 24, I'm getting no voltage to ground. If the GPIO is "turned on" I should be getting 5 volts if I'm not mistaken?

This is craftbeerpi 2.2
Click to expand...

You may want to join the CraftbeerPi Facebook group. There was an in depth post about how CBPi needs to be installed about a week ago. There are issues with WiringPi and it's recommended that it not be installed at all. Also you really should be using CBPi3 rather than version 2.2 as 2.2 isn't supported anymore and may have issues with Buster, the latest Rasbian version.
Also, if you can give more details and maybe pictures of your panel wiring it would make it easier for people help you if you have issues. There are some really knowledgeable folks here and they helped me a great deal when I was sorting out my Pi build.
Good luck with your build.
 
Thanks, I sent a request to join the group.

I installed 2.2 because I was following the website instructions, didn't realize they were outdated. I'll give 3.0 a shot.
 
Just an update

Installed craftbeerpi 3.0, skipped wiring pi. Everything set up flawlessly except my one wire wouldn't work but was able to google an answer for that. It's all up and running finally. They zipties are temporary, lol.
 

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I am having trouble calibrating my DS18S20 sensors for fermentation. I chose an offset based on icewater to make them 0. Then I measured room temperature and the error was at least 3 degrees using 5 sensors. Is there a more accurate way of calibrating sensors other than offset based?
 
staticdev said:
I am having trouble calibrating my DS18S20 sensors for fermentation. I chose an offset based on icewater to make them 0. Then I measured room temperature and the error was at least 3 degrees using 5 sensors. Is there a more accurate way of calibrating sensors other than offset based?
Click to expand...
In general, yes. Specific to this project, no. Any such calibration would have to be supported by the code.

The good news is you really don't need that wide of a calibration range. Calibrate your sensor for the midpoint of your process and it will be more than close enough.
 
Thanks @LBussy, I did it. Now my cooling relay actuator is firing when it should stop. I need to invert the logic. Is there a setting for that?
 
I'm sure there is, I don't know how to do it. I just follow this thread because I find it interesting, not because I know anything about CBP. :)

One of the others will be along shortly I imagine.
 
There are 2 basic actuators for relay, GPIOSimple & RealyBoard. Both do the same but with inverted logic. GPIOSimple will output hi logic when the relay should be on.
Pay attention also the the thresholds in the fermenter definitions. The ON offset should be > than the off one.
 
Gravitysucks said:
Using the CBPi3 master located here:
https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3
I never had any issues installing CBPi3 on my Pi3B+ under Stretch and recently Buster using the simple instructions found on the CBPi website.
http://web.craftbeerpi.com/installation/
Just make sure you clone in the right version of CBPi, not the one shown at the beginning of the commandline installation instructions. If you use anything other than the "master" found on the page I linked you'll likely have issues. The master seems to be the last properly working version so I did not try to update it and it works fine with both versions of Raspbian. I did all my installations using a newly formatted SD and a fresh Raspbian install which may be why I never had any issues.

Edit: I just tried to do a new install of CBPi3 on a spare SD that was imaged with Stretch and there is definitely some issues that weren't previously there. I ended up using this video to get it up and running.
Click to expand...



This worked like a champ!! Thanks.
 
Hi guys, has anyone had issues with their DS18B20 probes where the rating on Cbpi just locks up and stops changing even though the temperature is still climbing? Its happening to me a lot the last few days and I cant see why?
 
troyp42 said:
Hi guys, has anyone had issues with their DS18B20 probes where the rating on Cbpi just locks up and stops changing even though the temperature is still climbing? Its happening to me a lot the last few days and I cant see why?
Click to expand...
I've not had anything exactly like that, but have notice that after switching to the Brave web browser, I have to turn off the Shields for the CraftbeerPi web page, or I get other really strange things happening (can't even get any temp sensors to show up in the system hardware setup, etc). Might you be using a browser that is more secure, but might be interfering with the web page display?

What happens when you manually refresh? Does the web page load again? If so, does it load displaying the new higher temperature? (trying to determine if the Raspberry Pi is locked up or not).
 
I had have errors with Advanced_one_wire & filtered_one_wire. The thread seems to quit for some error and the sensor stop updating. You can confirm in the sensor log, that stop updating as well. There is so munch "noise" in the app log from the UI update logging that can't see any sensor related error. Now I have set up for a friend a system with 16 sensors that works ok with the standard One_Wire module.
 
rkhanso said:
I've not had anything exactly like that, but have notice that after switching to the Brave web browser, I have to turn off the Shields for the CraftbeerPi web page, or I get other really strange things happening (can't even get any temp sensors to show up in the system hardware setup, etc). Might you be using a browser that is more secure, but might be interfering with the web page display?

What happens when you manually refresh? Does the web page load again? If so, does it load displaying the new higher temperature? (trying to determine if the Raspberry Pi is locked up or not).
Click to expand...
Im using safari on a Imac and my Ipad. CBPi refreshes but the reading stays the same temp stuck on say 43C when its actually climbed to 65C.

The logs show and update but its always the same temperature everytime it displays a new line in the log it just keeps showing 43C.

Then Ill reboot and the reading will be 0C. Then I delete and try to re install the sensor but I cant see an address. Eventually after a few reboots it re-appears and I install it again in CBPi, it works for 10 mins and freezes again.

I ended up removing that probe and installing another one and it managed to work right up to 90C without freezing so maybe the first probe was stuffed.
 
Lalo_uy said:
I had have errors with Advanced_one_wire & filtered_one_wire. The thread seems to quit for some error and the sensor stop updating. You can confirm in the sensor log, that stop updating as well. There is so munch "noise" in the app log from the UI update logging that can't see any sensor related error. Now I have set up for a friend a system with 16 sensors that works ok with the standard One_Wire module.
Click to expand...

Some kind of exception must be encountered in your scenario. In terms of getting the temperature the only difference between my plugin and the default 1wire plugin for actual temperature access IIRC is that Manuel puts almost everything into a try block.
 
Install issue:
RPI3B+, stretch noobs os, 3.0 CraftBeerPi board, 12vdc 5A ps attached for CBP install, manual install vis PuTTY. # times I have started from scratch, cut & paste, and always get "could not open requirements file no such file or directory requirements.txt. Also each install I answered y to all questions from the script and Craft Beer Pi never came up.
What am I doing wrong?
 
I have a terragady v5.0 add on board and have a few questions if you guys don't mind.
  1. It's meant to get power of 12V/5A. Is this so the buck converter can power the pi and the externals at the same time (such as a 12V pump)? I wouldn't mind re-purposing an old laptop charger or similar... can I just connect that straight into the power terminals at the top right?
  2. I need to adjust the MP1584 to 5V... are there any terminals or pins I can attach the voltmeter to or does it need to go straight onto the MP1584?
  3. What are GPIO19+26 for in the top left corner?
  4. Why are there 3 terminal sets for GPIO04 (One wire)? Does each One wire device have some sort of Unique ID I can identify them with? Would that then be used for say one sensor before the pump and one at the wort return?

Thanks in advance for your help!

img_4205-jpg.554101
 
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I have a Terragady 4.2 board, but the idea is the same.

  • 1. you supply 12v to the Terragady board. The converter gives the Pi 5v that it needs. the 12v is used for the rest of the terragady outputs/switching. Some SSRs don't like the 3V that the Pi outputs. So the Terragady will raise the 3v to 12v instead. It gives a higher signal to better switch relays/ssrs. Side benefit - I use it to run a 12v circulation pump. Works perfect for powering the pump right from the same supply that's powering the Pi and Terragady board.
  • 2. You'll want to measure the converter output - and adjust to get +5V at the test point in the lower right corner of your picture. At least I think that's the test point on this version of the board.
  • 3. I'm not sure why GPIO 19,26 are separate like that. But I have to assume they connect up to those GPIO pins on the Pi. That's a guess. They're marked +12v, so I'd assume they're still outputting 12v from the Terragady board and not 3.3v from the PI. Maybe they just ran out of real estate on the board.
  • 4. Each 1-wire sensor has 3 wires. +5, data, ground. It's just a convenient way to connect three of the 1-wire sensors. You can add more, but would have to connect them to another in parallel (they're all really connected in parallel anyway).
 
rkhanso said:
I have a Terragady 4.2 board, but the idea is the same.
  • 2. You'll want to measure the converter output - and adjust to get +5V at the test point in the lower right corner of your picture. At least I think that's the test point on this version of the board.
Click to expand...

That points are the I2C connection, but is a good place to check the 5V adjust.
There is no way to measure 5V without a voltmeter, do not risk your RPi.

BandonBrewingCo be aware if using a 12v pump that the output transistors are limited to 800mA or so. The pump should not require more than 6 or 7 W.
 
BrandonBrewingco - GPIO 19 and 26 are just extra 12v pinouts which you could solder in a 2 pin male header and then use a 2 pin female header out to whatever you want. I used it for running those cheap 12v pumps so I didn't have to cut off the female header that came standard on those pumps.
 
toadyus said:
BrandonBrewingco - GPIO 19 and 26 are just extra 12v pinouts which you could solder in a 2 pin male header and then use a 2 pin female header out to whatever you want. I used it for running those cheap 12v pumps so I didn't have to cut off the female header that came standard on those pumps.
Click to expand...
those pumps are advertised to draw only 800ma but in reality they draw much more than that. I tested this with multiple power supplies and measured performance.. I would not be surprised if you run into electrical hardware failure down the road from this. (if the power is regulated on the board)

I did something similar myself with an arduino and burned a few out by overheating the onboard voltage regulators.
 
Lalo_uy said:
BandonBrewingCo be aware if using a 12v pump that the output transistors are limited to 800mA or so. The pump should not require more than 6 or 7 W.
Click to expand...

I should have been a little clearer..... I'm not using the output of the Terragady board to power the pump directly. I'm using it to switch a relay, that is pulling the 12v off the same 12v power supply that's running the controller.
No chance of burning anything out. Well, except for that little 12v pump that gets a fair amount of use.
 
So if I'm using an old 12V 5A laptop charger as my power supply can I just split it to power the terragdy board and 12v pump at the same time?
 
rkhanso said:
That's what I did. I ran the 12-volt to the pump through a relay controlled by one of the gpio pins on a Teragaddy board. I also put a fuse on that 12 volts to the pump.
Click to expand...

Is that to protect the pump from too much power coming from the laptop charger?
 
BandonBrewingCo said:
Is that to protect the pump from too much power coming from the laptop charger?
Click to expand...
It's to protect the current getting too high on anything between the pump and power supply (and yes, including the power supply). I'm not as concerned about the power supply though, as it's easily replaceable. If anything were to happen inside the controller box to the wiring, components, boards - it would be more downtime because I may have to replace components on the Terragady board, replace the PI (though not likely), or otherwise messing around with anything inside the controller box isn't what I want to do. Replacing a fuse is easy. See the picture below.
And yes, I've had to replace the fuse once.

IMG_20181018_113832078-fuseHolder.jpg
 
rkhanso said:
It's to protect the current getting too high on anything between the pump and power supply (and yes, including the power supply). I'm not as concerned about the power supply though, as it's easily replaceable. If anything were to happen inside the controller box to the wiring, components, boards - it would be more downtime because I may have to replace components on the Terragady board, replace the PI (though not likely), or otherwise messing around with anything inside the controller box isn't what I want to do. Replacing a fuse is easy. See the picture below.
And yes, I've had to replace the fuse once.

View attachment 655993
Click to expand...

Ah that makes sense now! Don't suppose you have a pic of the inside of your box somewhere by any chance?
 

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