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Guess I should have procrastinated a bit longer before ordering an IoT pHat last month. Then again if production is a slow as the original Zero launch, they may be scarce for awhile. But it will occupying minimal space, which is what I need to get everything into the Auber case I also bought. Now I'm waiting to see if there are breakout boards coming down the pike which are smaller than the offers on this thread or if I should proceed with what is currently available or move forward with the PiFace I already have. Decisions, decisions...?
 
BuddhaMaster3000 said:
Not sure if this will be helpful, but I found this on the GitHub page that references implementing a custom thermometer:
https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/tree/dev2.2#implementing-a-custom-thermometer-protocol
Click to expand...

Playing around with this tonight, I think i've got my python code that will gather my data from my remote sensors, and i'm ready to return it to cpbi, but I dont see in the w1_thermometer.py file where i'm to replace the methods listed. I see some similar method calling available.

Right now the github document says to use: initThermo(), getW1Thermometer(), and tempData1Wire() to initialize, enumerate, and read the sensors and return their values accordingly. However the actual w1_thermometer.py file on my system shows init(self), getSensors(self), and readTemp(self, tempSensorId)

Am I supposed to create a new sensor file altogether, or should I overwrite the code/add to the code, within the existing file to return more sensor data? I can see where it is gathering the locations of the sensors that start with 28 and 10. Should I just add more code and drop my sensor names into the array variable? Then in the readTemp, add more code to do the sensor reading for my custom sensors?
 
Alt said:
Guess I should have procrastinated a bit longer before ordering an IoT pHat last month. Then again if production is a slow as the original Zero launch, they may be scarce for awhile. But it will occupying minimal space, which is what I need to get everything into the Auber case I also bought. Now I'm waiting to see if there are breakout boards coming down the pike which are smaller than the offers on this thread or if I should proceed with what is currently available or move forward with the PiFace I already have. Decisions, decisions...?
Click to expand...

I was working on some small board for my own setup, it is almost ready

It has total of 5 outputs (2 are for screw in terminals and 3 are for direct soldering or pinheaders on the board).

index.jpg
 
terragady said:
Just to ask as this is not really clear to me.
ArdBir (Brauduino) uses a PWM signal to control heating element, so it can control power of heating element for if is close to desired temeperature it is just lowering a heating element power? So grain does not burn etc.
CraftBeer is not using PWM so there is only full on and full off?

Which system is better in terms of controlling temp?
Click to expand...

It looks like PWM will be added to version 3, and there are 2 pull requests that implement PWM if you would rather use that. https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/pull/138

I use PID for mashing (though, I am using a 3-kettle HERMS system, so I don't have to worry about scorching) and use PWM with step for boil.
 
terragady said:
Just to ask as this is not really clear to me.
ArdBir (Brauduino) uses a PWM signal to control heating element, so it can control power of heating element for if is close to desired temeperature it is just lowering a heating element power? So grain does not burn etc.
CraftBeer is not using PWM so there is only full on and full off?

Which system is better in terms of controlling temp?
Click to expand...
I'm also wondering the same thing.

I use a temp controller designed for smokers/grills called the Heatermeter. It does use PWM to control fan speeds when feeding air to a fire. I would assume that PWM in CraftBeerPi would be preferred to avoid overshooting temps.

Is CraftBeerPi going to use PWM in the future? Or, I've also seen where Manuel says on Facebook: "CraftBeerPi Hi Alan, the current version 2.1 is supporting a PID logic for mashing and heating. It calculates the on and off time in a slightly different way. The next version will use PWM for agitator and heater. This is currently under development. But with basic python skills its very easy to implement a custom logic which for example can support PWM in version 2.1. Here you wil find a skeleton for custom automatic logic in CraftBeerPI: https://github.com/.../bre.../base/automatic/examplelogic.py"

I don't have any Python skills. Is there some sort of how-to to get CraftBeerPi to use PWM?

Or does the 2.2 version have it and I just don't know it?
Does one of the Control Logic choices in CraftBeerPi already use PWM?


OOPS!!!
I guess I didn't refresh my web page.
The answer posted 20 min before my question....
 
Any reason why we could not use the PWM function, which one of the pull requests provides, for controlling the speed of our 120V AC pumps (Chugger, March, etc), utilizing an SSR of course?
 
I have, what I am sure, is a dumb question...I have set up me temp probes on a breadboard connected to my RPi and am running craftbeerpi. Probes are reading fine. However, when I set up one of the probes as a thermometer in the configuration panel, I forgot to put in a name for it or hide the thermometer on the dashboard. Now it is there below my MLT with no name. TO make things worse, it seems that since I forgot to put a name in for it, I cannot open it back up to fix it or even delete it. Any ideas?
 
pdavidc said:
I have, what I am sure, is a dumb question...I have set up me temp probes on a breadboard connected to my RPi and am running craftbeerpi. Probes are reading fine. However, when I set up one of the probes as a thermometer in the configuration panel, I forgot to put in a name for it or hide the thermometer on the dashboard. Now it is there below my MLT with no name. TO make things worse, it seems that since I forgot to put a name in for it, I cannot open it back up to fix it or even delete it. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I had same problem. No way to edit if there is no name. Start over.
 
VictorBrew said:
Any reason why we could not use the PWM function, which one of the pull requests provides, for controlling the speed of our 120V AC pumps (Chugger, March, etc), utilizing an SSR of course?
Click to expand...
No reason - it should work.
swimIan said:
You could if you used a DC pump
Click to expand...
Then you would need a DC SSR - many/most of the AC SSR's use zero crossing switching to help prevent high frequency spikes.
 
It won't control the speed of the pump because of the way AC current runs. Look up AC vs DC current. An AC ssr would just turn the pump motor on and off very rapidly at full speed just as the ssr does with an electric heating element. This would eventually burn out the pump motor.

For a DC pump, you'd use a dimmer switch (triac or scr) to vary the current flowing to the pump (say 0-100%). Which would then vary the motor speed and resulting liquid flow out of the pump.
 
You can't use pwm to control the chuggers or marches, they require a valve on the output of you want flow control. You can use pwm to control the cheap tan DC pumps, I'd look into a simple circuit with a mosfet rather than an ssr.
 
Got it. I am not fully up-to-speed on all the details of exactly 'why', but researching it a bit more I am finding the same conclusion regarding RPM management of AC motors. SSR's are not the correct method and even with DC motors there is debate on the 'correct' method, but all agree it is very feasible with DC motors.

I appreciate all who chimed in on the topic.

-Rob
 
BrunDog said:
What is the frequency of the PWM?
Click to expand...

I don't know if it's exactly what the original question refers to but I did a quick search of the code and found two references to pwm, both at 100 hz. Here at line 82 and here at line 23.

This appears to be for a heating element.
[edit]
Two pull requests also mention pwm, both are for heating element control. Not totally sure but it looks like they're running at 1hz and 0.1 hz.
 
Thanks. I think 100Hz would be too fast for an SSR... AC is 60 Hz alone so it would be chopping the waveform like crazy. 1Hz or 1/10Hz makes more sense.

I wouldn't use anything electric on/off to regulate an AC pump. Also, none of these rates are appropriate for an DC pump to regulate power. Maybe 100Hz but that would be kind of slow enough for it to buzz or taper quickly at lower %.
 
Hi all,

I've tried searching but I'm struggling to get anything from the search form. Apologies if this is an often asked question!

I'm setting up craftbrewpi and am worried that I'll accidentally switch on both elements at once. It seems in dummy mode that this is definitely possible. Is there a way to make sure that I can only ever switch on one heating element?

Thanks,
JD
 
HAHB said:
Hi all,

I've tried searching but I'm struggling to get anything from the search form. Apologies if this is an often asked question!

I'm setting up craftbrewpi and am worried that I'll accidentally switch on both elements at once. It seems in dummy mode that this is definitely possible. Is there a way to make sure that I can only ever switch on one heating element?

Thanks,
JD
Click to expand...

Honestly ... the safest method is a switch that will allow to select element 1, element 2, or both off. You will need the backend wiring, contactor, etc, which are easy schematics to find. I would not depend upon the software side to manage this.
 
If one switched the control signals a ganged rotary switch would be a viable, low $ solution.
Or discrete toggles per channel (even lower cost).

fwiw, all of my BrewPi actuators have over-ride switches for the same concerns expressed...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
If one switched the control signals a ganged rotary switch would be a viable, low $ solution.
Or discrete toggles per channel (even lower cost).

fwiw, all of my BrewPi actuators have over-ride switches for the same concerns expressed...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Can/does an ssr ever fail such that it closes the circuit while the signal is off? I know they can get *stuck* on.

I'm wondering if just for safety's sake if a switch on the power lines is the way to go? Would you be totally comfortable just using a switch at the signal line as your manual override for heating elements? (This is not a rhetorical question, looking for opinions as I'm building a control panel my self at the moment)
 
You should always have a contactor / relay inline with an SSR. Ideally, this is "upstream" of it but that's not a rule necessarily.

The right circuit IMO, is a main contactor which cuts power to the whole panel. This could be a manual switch or relay controlled by a switch. Then that power is fed to your low voltage control power supply and breakers + individual contractors + SSR for each high voltage item. These would be switched by an emergency stop.

This way when the poo hits the fan (and it will) you can use the E-stop to shut all the HV stuff down, yet maintain the control system.
 
Question. I am having an issue with the Onewire sensors when I turn my heating element on. I use a thermal-well now in a keggle. I think since the element uses the kettle as a ground, it may be causing interference with the sensors. When I turn the element on, it shows 32F on both my sensors, even through only one of them is attached to the kettle.

Any thoughts here? The RPI is on a separate circuit than the element.
 
sk888smooth said:
Question. I am having an issue with the Onewire sensors when I turn my heating element on. I use a thermal-well now in a keggle. I think since the element uses the kettle as a ground, it may be causing interference with the sensors. When I turn the element on, it shows 32F on both my sensors, even through only one of them is attached to the kettle.

Any thoughts here? The RPI is on a separate circuit than the element.
Click to expand...

How close are your onewire wires to the power lines? I ask because I had a similar issue with SBE, once I relocated my 3.5mm jack and wires away from the power lines, all was well.
 
thekraken said:
Can/does an ssr ever fail such that it closes the circuit while the signal is off? I know they can get *stuck* on.

I'm wondering if just for safety's sake if a switch on the power lines is the way to go? Would you be totally comfortable just using a switch at the signal line as your manual override for heating elements? (This is not a rhetorical question, looking for opinions as I'm building a control panel my self at the moment)
Click to expand...

Yes, that would In fact provide greater coverage. Indeed I use DPDT-center-off switches on the AC side of my BrewPi controllers to over-ride pretty much any failure mode. Half of each switch controls the actual AC while the other side controls panel indicators.

My comment about switching the controls instead was more towards keeping a ganged rotary switch solution affordable than providing the full gamut of over-ride function. A ganged rotary that could switch the AC side at 15-20A per leg could be much more expensive.

Toggles, otoh - even high current versions - are modestly priced, but you do need to flip two switches to cover the cases that were described, plus they're not quite as cool :)

Cheers!
 
Hello everyone. I have recently discovered what a Raspberry Pi is and what it can do. Albeit that is all I know right now. Beyond that I know nothing. No programming or electrical knowledge of any kind. That being said I am simply wondering id RPi could be used to make as a temperature monitor. To start I am simply looking to monitor the temperature of my mash. stick a probe in it, set some temperatures high and low, and if those temperatures are breached i would like a nice alarm to go off alerting me to this fact. typical example is let's say I want my target mash temperature to be 150F, +/- 2 degrees both ways. i mash temperature reaches 147F then I would like it to alarm me until I get temperature back in order. Also would like to be able to see the temperaturew on a web site or smart phone, I know the Pi can do much much more but this is all I want for now. I know the RPi 3 is $35 to get in. What else would I need and what would need to happen to put this all together? Smoking meat would be another interest to monitor the temperature with as well.
 
Iceman6409 said:
Hello everyone. I have recently discovered what a Raspberry Pi is and what it can do. Albeit that is all I know right now. Beyond that I know nothing. No programming or electrical knowledge of any kind. That being said I am simply wondering id RPi could be used to make as a temperature monitor. To start I am simply looking to monitor the temperature of my mash. stick a probe in it, set some temperatures high and low, and if those temperatures are breached i would like a nice alarm to go off alerting me to this fact. typical example is let's say I want my target mash temperature to be 150F, +/- 2 degrees both ways. i mash temperature reaches 147F then I would like it to alarm me until I get temperature back in order. Also would like to be able to see the temperaturew on a web site or smart phone, I know the Pi can do much much more but this is all I want for now. I know the RPi 3 is $35 to get in. What else would I need and what would need to happen to put this all together? Smoking meat would be another interest to monitor the temperature with as well.
Click to expand...

You can certainly do this. You may want to start your own thread however. There are several companies that make BBQ Wirless thermometers that will do what you want, you could use it in the mash too (just don't get the probes braided sheilding wet). This project uses digital temperature sensors that aren't suitable for bbq temperatures.

If you still want to explore the DIY path and play with some electronics go ahead and start a thread, I'll be glade to help where I can.
 
Iceman6409 said:
Hello everyone. I have recently discovered what a Raspberry Pi is and what it can do. Albeit that is all I know right now. Beyond that I know nothing. No programming or electrical knowledge of any kind. That being said I am simply wondering id RPi could be used to make as a temperature monitor. To start I am simply looking to monitor the temperature of my mash. stick a probe in it, set some temperatures high and low, and if those temperatures are breached i would like a nice alarm to go off alerting me to this fact. typical example is let's say I want my target mash temperature to be 150F, +/- 2 degrees both ways. i mash temperature reaches 147F then I would like it to alarm me until I get temperature back in order. Also would like to be able to see the temperaturew on a web site or smart phone, I know the Pi can do much much more but this is all I want for now. I know the RPi 3 is $35 to get in. What else would I need and what would need to happen to put this all together? Smoking meat would be another interest to monitor the temperature with as well.
Click to expand...
DIY Heatermeter uses a rpi to control a smoker.
 
I am not looking to control anything yet. Simply want to be able to see current temps and have alarms go off if temps are breached. Nothing else
 
Iceman6409 said:
I am not looking to control anything yet. Simply want to be able to see current temps and have alarms go off if temps are breached. Nothing else
Click to expand...
I use a Heatermeter for my grill/smoker. It will do what you want. You don't need to use the control portion of it.
It will text or email or beep at you when you cross an alarm threshold.

I think it cost me about $100 to build one.

If you don't want any temp control features, a simple wireless BBQ type thermometer may be cheaper.
 
What are people using as their 12 V power supply? I assume for a RPi 3 it would need a minimum of 2.5 A.
 
terragady said:
I was working on some small board for my own setup, it is almost ready

It has total of 5 outputs (2 are for screw in terminals and 3 are for direct soldering or pinheaders on the board).
Click to expand...
Looks good. are you going to release the .brd files for this and Version 5 boards?
 
ethan44 said:
Sorry I should have specified. I will be using one of the terragady boards that requires a 12V input and can power the pi along with the relays.
Click to expand...

Oh sorry. I have this powering a pi a relays in my rims box and keezer controller, but I'm not fully tuned into the terragady boards.
 

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