Uber-ghetto wiring diagram:
(sorry, lost this pic)
In a nutshell, simply wire the green (ground) and white (neutral) wires to each outlet as the instructions state. Every AC outlet I've ever used is color-coded with green, black, and white (or un-colored) screws, so it really is easy.
Wiring the hot (black) wire will vary depending on the AC switches you use. Again, read the directions. For mine, a single-pole switch was integrated in with the outlet and the instructions said to break off a little metal tab on the side and use a short piece of wire to jumper the switch "out" to the black outlet screw. This makes the switch open/close the hot side of the circuit to the outlet.
For the kettle switch, I wired it the same except for passing this jumper through the SSR. So, the black switch "out" goes to one AC side of the SSR, and the other SSR terminal connects back to the black screw on the outlet. This way, the switch has ultimate authority on passing current to the kettle. If the switch is ON, then the SSR / PID decides on the flow of current.
Power for the PID is AC so polarity doesn't matter. Just piggyback onto any switch/outlet screws that have a direct path back to the AC appliance cord. Heavy gauge wire is not necessary here. Even though the wires carry 120V, the PID only uses a few milliamperes of current.
The SSR control connections are DC so polarity DOES matter. Just follow the directions that came with your PID. Again, heavy gauge wire is not needed.
The thermocouple connections also have polarity. If you got your TC from Auber, most likely, the red lead is POSITIVE.