Could somebody help me calculate abv and ibus?

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thebamaking

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I'm sorry, i know it gets old people asking for help calculating this, i forgot to take a gravity reading and i dont have beer smith or anything, so if anyone could help, even a guess, i would greatly appreciate it...

Partial Mash....3.5 gallon steep at 155 for 60 min, sparged with about a gallon of water (split up of course) at 170 (ghetto way by simply pouring the water over the grains in the bag over the pot). i sort of expect a lower efficiency due to my technique, maybe 70 or 65 percent, but am hoping for a tad better. anyways, here is the recipe...

7 lb. organic 2-row
1 lb. cara-pils
3 lb. extra light dme

2 oz chinook 60 min
.5 oz amarillo 45 min
.5 oz centennial 25 min
.5 oz ahtanum 25 min
.5 oz ahtanum 15 min
Yeast Fuel 15 min
1.5 oz amarillo 7 min
1.5 oz centennial 5 min

dry hops after 7 days in primary with 1 oz each of centennial, ahtanum, amarillo, and chinook

White Labs California Ale WLP001 Yeast

i know my ibus will probably be off the charts...what should i expect to taste from this beer? Will it be drinkable, in yalls humble and constructive opinions:)?
 
like the saying goes, "teach a man to fish..." this might help you out!

it appears to be a pretty decent brew maybe a touch light colorwise for me, maybe a bit of c-40 in there, and cut back on the carapils equal to the crystal add. I dont think too hoppy bitterwise, but a nice flavor and aroma in spades!
 
this might help me out too... thanx for the link, added to favorites
 
<insert standard noob disclaimer>

BTW, I know this doesn't necessarily mean anything to your brew, but I did the same method - sparge by pouring hot water over the bag o grains - and got pretty good efficiency... like in the mid 80's.

The only difference is I did it in a second pot, and let the grains sit in the sparge water for 5 or 6 minutes before pulling the bag out and draining. I did that twice.

My only point is, that I think because you use a partial / BIAB type mash doesn't mean you'll necessarily get super low efficiency. I think in his thread outlining the technique deathbrewer says he gets a really good efficiency.

Ive used this online recipe calculator when I don't have beersmith available. It seems to give me comparable results...
threw your ingredients in their quickly, assuming 5 gallon batch, seventy percent efficiency, default AA's etc. I got around 1.065 initial gravity, and about 70 IBU's. ABV will depend on where you end up...
 
From my calculations, assuming 5gal batch and 60% efficiency:
OG=1.060
FG=1.014
ABV%=6
Color=5
IBU>140

From my very limited brewing experience, this will look very light in color and malt taste, some body due to the carapills, alcohol may be noticed since nothing there to hide it, very, very hoppy indeed. Perhaps an "Extra Bitter Light IPA" ?
 
you really don't have to steep for that long. 40 minutes at 155 is plenty.

Here's the breakdown according to beersmith: (I would go download a trial. there's a link in my sig)

thebamaking
American IPA


Type: Partial Mash
Date: 7/3/2010
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: James (merddyn)
Boil Size: 2.43 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (3 Gallon)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 27.27 %
7.00 lb Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 63.64 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 9.09 %
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops 38.9 IBU
1.00 oz Ahtanum [6.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (45 min) Hops 5.8 IBU
0.50 oz Ahtanum [6.00 %] (25 min) Hops 3.1 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (25 min) Hops 5.2 IBU
0.50 oz Ahtanum [6.00 %] (15 min) Hops 2.2 IBU
1.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (7 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
1.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (5 min) Hops 4.5 IBU
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.069 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.015 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.04 %
Bitterness: 64.9 IBU Calories: 43 cal/pint
Est Color: 4.5 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: My Mash Total Grain Weight: 8.00 lb
Sparge Water: 3.64 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

My Mash Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Step Add 0.00 gal of water at 155.0 F 155.0 F



Mash Notes:
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Volumes of CO2: 2.4
Pressure/Weight: 3.8 oz Carbonation Used: -
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 60.0 F Age for: 28.0 days
Storage Temperature: 52.0 F

Notes


Created with BeerSmith
 
I would assume at least 70 percent effeciency if you have an adequate crush with your pale malt and are really monitoring your mash temps. When I calculate that, I get this:

1.068 OG at 5 gallons
1.017 EFG
Color 5 SRM
IBU 84.5
ABV 6.9%


seems in line with a hoppy IPA to me
 
I would assume at least 70 percent effeciency if you have an adequate crush with your pale malt and are really monitoring your mash temps. When I calculate that, I get this:

1.068 OG at 5 gallons
1.017 EFG
Color 5 SRM
IBU 84.5

seems in line with a hoppy IPA to me

I'm curious why you guys are geeting such a low IBU's from your calculations.
When I plug just the 2oz of Chinook for 60min, just that, already gives me over 100 IBU's. I double checked my tool against beer tools and got the same thing. You have a lot more hops than 2oz.
I think your IBU will be very high, like I said, over 140 units.
 
I'm curious why you guys are geeting such a low IBU's from your calculations.

IBUs are dependant on effeciency and volume of wort. I'd really guess 70-75 percent effeciency using these PM methods. If I plug 70 percent, I get 84.5 IBU .....75 is 81.1 IBU. These are with leaf form: so pellet would also raise IBU: if I plug pellet, I get 89.2 at 75 percent.

So considering the effeciency will *probably* not get above standard brewhouse, I don't think it will get above 90 IBU. It depends on what formula is used for bittering units per gravity....which with my calculations is 1.26 BU:GU (Tinseth formula). The total hops is well over 2 oz, but most of the bittering units are the first 3 oz. My head is spinning with hop utilization formulas; it gets rather complicated. All I know is that I've used 3 oz of hops at 1.068 and it has tasted hoppy but not like motor oil :)
 
the Gravity of the boil when you add the hops has a LOT to do with extraction. If you really want maximum IBUs then you want to do add your DME as a late addition. That will MAJORLY lower the SG of the boil with the hops. If you keep to the same schedule above as listed and you wait until the last 10 minutes of you boil to add the DME you will jump from the origial 60 IBU up to 98.5 IBU. If you add the DME to the last 30 minutes of your boil then your IBU should be around 85. See the difference gravity makes in hops extraction?

Beersmith (BIG BIG fan of that program) allows you to add all your ingredients, boil times and specify what is a late addition. The calculators automatically show you what you're sitting at.

If you want to grab a trial of Beersmith or even Brewtarget (which is free but not as good as Beersmith) you can download the BeerXML recipe I built for your brew here: http://www.simplehomebrewing.com/beerxml/thebamaking.xml

http://simplehomebrewing.com is my personal homebrewing website. Lots of good info up there for beginners and several videos. It may actually be a bit too basic for you though.

btw, what's the alpha on the hops you have? Even the same hops strains can have a variance in the alpha level. I can plug those into the program and give you a more accurate IBU.
 

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