Copper coil placed in a HLT

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Whitey70

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Hi. I've done some snooping, and haven't found anything to answer this question.

Whats the best way to mount a copper coil in a SS 1/2 barrel keg? Preferably with the ports coming out the side and not the top.
 
It can be either, but since your HLT doesn't need cleaning, the logical location would be the side.
 
Yes, compression fitting will do the job.

I am more concerned on how to secure stability of hex coil (I also use copper, 1/2", 25ft). It looks sloppy when I position it in HLT, there are 2 heaters on bottom- one above the other because they are pretty huge so hex coil lays down on just one of them, other side is "free".

On my last setup I used IC for chilling and secured it with weaved copper wire, but I am thinking on more elegant way.. I could solder piece of straight copper pipe on 2-3 sides of hex.. seems like overkill..
 
Yes, compression fitting will do the job.

I am more concerned on how to secure stability of hex coil (I also use copper, 1/2", 25ft). It looks sloppy when I position it in HLT, there are 2 heaters on bottom- one above the other because they are pretty huge so hex coil lays down on just one of them, other side is "free".

On my last setup I used IC for chilling and secured it with weaved copper wire, but I am thinking on more elegant way.. I could solder piece of straight copper pipe on 2-3 sides of hex.. seems like overkill..

I made vertical straps from 1/4" tubing, hammered flat. Then soldered to the coil. It stabilized the yo-yo effect. Then I mounted the coil (1/2" ID copper) in the HLT and Boil Kettle by using brass flared fittings.

I use a toilet brush to scrub it, during cleanup time.
 
Here is how I did it using flare fittings. (1/2" OD - copper 25')

The coil and fittings:

DSC01604-w.JPG


View with coil in place and attached to the flare fitting:

DSC02390-w.jpg


The fittings were soldered in place using Harris StayBrite-8 Silver solder
 
Here is how I did it using flare fittings. (1/2" OD - copper 25')

The fittings were soldered in place using Harris StayBrite-8 Silver solder

Looks clear and simple.
I am thinking to leave gaps between coil bands to increase heat exchange area.
 
I used some 10 or 8 gauge copper wire and made a stand, sort of wrapped around the bottom and a sqaure at the bottle of the keggle. This supports the hanging side of the copper coil over my heating element. The compression fittings hold it level on the other side.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but how are people cleaning the inside surface of the coil after brew day?
 
Just finished my HLT, I used compression fitting with 1/2" brass elbow, it fits perfectly.

Problem with stability in fact wasn't problem at all, 1/2" copper coil is rigid enough to hold in place when you position it. I am glad I don't have to solder another pipe on it, or wire it..
 
Not to hijack the thread, but how are people cleaning the inside surface of the coil after brew day?

I think after you recirculate the mash, pump your sparge water thru the herms coil. A few gallons of hot water should clean it out pretty good.
 
I think after you recirculate the mash, pump your sparge water thru the herms coil. A few gallons of hot water should clean it out pretty good.

DING DING DING - We have a winner!

sept 2011 029.jpg


sept 2011 026.jpg
 
luhrks said:
DING DING DING - We have a winner!

Thanks for the confirmation. If you don't mind, what are the specs on the herms/hlt you posted a pic of? What size pot, how long of a coil, etc.
That looks like quite a large HLT, so you must be doing 15+ size batches? Do you feel that you have enough copper length to maintain mash temps? Can you step mash with that setup?

Ok, I really am hijacking now...
 
Thanks for the confirmation. If you don't mind, what are the specs on the herms/hlt you posted a pic of? What size pot, how long of a coil, etc.
That looks like quite a large HLT, so you must be doing 15+ size batches? Do you feel that you have enough copper length to maintain mash temps? Can you step mash with that setup?

Ok, I really am hijacking now...

I want to know also... I will be brewing in kegs so probably 12 gallon boils is all I will have, but I want to know how HERMS will work. I still have not made up my mind on HERMS or RIMS.
 
I use a keggle hlt with 50 ft of 1/2 copper and a 5500 watt camco. You can step mash, but it is a gradual ramp. Some will argue that it is not true stepping because of the time lag to hit target temp. It takes say 30 secs to a minute for a degree. Depends on how hot the hlt is and the temp difference. If I am trying to go between 122 and 152, I put mt hlt at 165 to speed things up. I turn the element off around 140 ish or lower the pid to the target. Now you will find some real good thread on here that say a herms or rims will not work for step mashing. But it works for my process and I am happy with being able to change mash temp with out modifing the water to grist ratio.

To clean my coil, I just capture my first running of cooling water in the hlt and heat to 160ish and run it through. I then use a shop vac to suck out water and blow through it. Before next use, I push some clean hose water to knock out any mold or anything. Since everything will be boiled, you really don't have to, I just don't like floaters in my mash.
 
Thanks for the confirmation. If you don't mind, what are the specs on the herms/hlt you posted a pic of? What size pot, how long of a coil, etc.
That looks like quite a large HLT, so you must be doing 15+ size batches? Do you feel that you have enough copper length to maintain mash temps? Can you step mash with that setup?

Ok, I really am hijacking now...

I do 12g batches, so my HLT is 24gal.

The coil is 25" of 1/2 id copper.

I fill the pot up to the full 24 gallons, and heat to my strike temp and then drain off into my mash tun which leaves me about 15gallons for the herms during mash. Step mashing is really easy. I light a pilot under my mash tun, and ramp up the HLT on max burn. I can raise the temp 30 deg in about 10 minutes. As soon as I get within a couple of degrees I kill the pilot under the MT and reduce flame on the HLT to minimum.

The flame under the MT isn't to help raise the MT temp so much as it is to keep the MT sucking heat out of the HERMS during ramp up.

Once I'm at temp I've got enough HLT volume that the MT doesn't sink the heat out too quickly and a minimal flame can maintain the HLT temp right where I want. It's pretty damn rock solid.

When I sparge I flush the water through the coil and pump and then into the mash tun, so that cleans that. The water that's left post sparge is what I use to clean the rest of the system with.
 
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