There will be voltage present at the element but no current flow unless the SSR is triggered by the PID. I generally place a switch after the SSRs so that the element can be isolated. This is a safety measure.With switches 1 & 2 on, the elements hot even when the relay is not energized?
There is always another way. Now to the details. You have a 60A feed. That is enough to supply one setup with 2 5500W elements. Now with the addition of a HLT, you would need a 100A feed or 2 seprate 50A feeds. Keep in mind that it is very important to provide GFCI protection for the system.P-J, I think I'm going to build this controller with the addition of twin elements for a HLT as well. I guess I could just duplicate all the components but there must be a better way. Help! Please!
In that case you could do it with a 50A (60A) 120/240V feed. The issue becomes maintaining the temperature in the HLT. It really depends on your intended process and schedule.Would I still need 100 amps if only one set of elements were on at any given time?
I'll do it and keep you posted.I dont foresee a need to fire the BK and HLT at the same time. Maybe a selector switch between the two sets of elements?
Good point. So here is another view:...
And on a side note, 4 SSRs seems kind of redundant if you plan to never run 4 elements at a time. Of course they arnt that expensive and the peace of mind knowing you wont accidentally pop one if your selector mechanism decides to run two elements at a time. Cant see that happening but who knows.
The temperature probe would be mounted in the HLT (it stays there). The PID uses it to set and maintain the temperature of the HLT. When switched to the BOIL kettle, the PID would then be set to manual mode. This allows you to set the percent of power delivered to maintain a proper boil. The temp probe must be connected to the PID for the PID to function properly.Thanks P-J. My only question is how does the PID differentiate between the two tank inputs?
Yes - and a lot easier to manage and control your system.Thanks! that looks like it will be a lot cleaner!
Yes - and a lot easier to manage and control your system.
Another thought for you. If you wanted to have indicator lights on your controller that shows which function is selected, that would be fairly easy to add on as well. Cheap too as it would only be the cost of 2 LED indicators and wire that you will already be using in the setup.
(Darn, I'm still scheming.!)
Scheme away!
Now that made me really laugh. Thanks, I needed that.!!Hell Ya!
Yup.P-J, I told you there would be more questions. Do you have a source for the DIN mount breakers? Grainger has them but they're not cheap. $53 each for the 25's.
mateomtb,
Thanks.
You do realize that if you intend to power the HLT and Boil at the same time, you need to have at least 100A 240V GFCI protected power available to your controller?
Basically, you would be running 22,000W plus pumps and PIDs.
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