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Ordering my last bits of TC parts, get the GFCI wired and I will be doing a wet run to calibrate the temp probes (I am adding a probe to my CFC chiller) and it's ready to go.

Anyone have a solution to what I think is a janky setup for the recirc arm attachment. I hate that it just can't be tightened down well. I was hoping to use this for whirlpooling at flameout on the kettle as well. Otherwise I would just have it welded to the basket.
 
I would like to know a solution as well. Mine keeps bending the fork out as I tighten it down. I have tried some jb weld in the corners in hopes to keep it from bending but that didn't work. I ending up using the pulley to keep the pressure off the fork so it won't bend back away from the kettle.
 
There need to be a threaded boss in the basket and the kettle to hold it in place better. I'll figure something out over time and use
 
There need to be a threaded boss in the basket and the kettle to hold it in place better. I'll figure something out over time and use

I was just getting ready to buy the system when I saw this. Is this a big deal? I don't want to spend all this money and this be a problem.
 
since i can't help but try new stuff, i just bought the new hardsided basket to replace my full mesh basket in my 15G system. it has the new sparge setup with the 2 x tri-clamp attachment and the short return tube. i did a double brew of two lagers and started at 7am and finished at 5:30pm not including clean up. 4.5 hrs for each brew (i took a break in between) including cooling. few things to share.

1) the wort in the kettle is not as clean as with a three vessel system since there is material that makes it through the bottom screen but not back up through the grain bed whereas with a three vessel that would be left behind in the mash tun. that said, after cooling i let it sit for 20 mins and then racked into my fermenter and the wort was noticeably cleaner that with the 100% mesh basket. so during the boil the wort was a little bit cleaner than before but into the fermenter it was noticeable cleaner. i gelatin most my beers and have had excellent clarity anyway but this has reduced my trub in the fermenter. my guess is that some larger stuff makes it through the screen and settles to the bottom of the kettle but the haze in the liquid gets filtered out by the grain bed. so when you let it sit after cooling that large stuff just settles to the bottom.

2) i did not have any issue with the sparge arm attachment. it screwed it down under the lip of the kettle and did didn't move at all. i didn't tighten it down hard because i didn't want to scratch the kettle. that is my one concern is that it screws down against the outside of the kettle and some sort of rubber coating on the end of the screw would be nice. i think a lot of it depends on how your run your hose up to it from your pump and how hard you recirc. my hose comes straight up from my pump with no bend and i ran my pump about 1/4 open to make sure i didn't cavitate the element. no issues whatsoever.

3) i also moved to a 4500W ULWD element and that has been a good improvement. on my batches i start boiling with about 7.75G of wort and i have to run the element at 75% to maintain boil. when i recirc through my counterflow i have to run at 95% to maintain a strong boil. but now i don't have the pulsing that i did with a 5500W element. also, my 5500W element was straight and i had some minor scorching. so far, the 4500W ripple element has been much cleaner at the end of the brew session. i didn't really notice much of time difference in heating up water. i'm sure there was but maybe a couple of minutes.
 
Was there any differences in conversion or mash efficiency between the two baskets? Did one grain easier than the other?
 
Was there any differences in conversion or mash efficiency between the two baskets? Did one grain easier than the other?

I was getting ~70% efficiency with the 100% mesh basket (variance with different grains) and both these brews I was 73%. i thought it might be a bit worse but i guess the wort recirculating actually might have helped a bit.

i always do a 60 min mash now after reading the brulosophy test on it and i have had good conversion with both baskets. although there is a bit of clarity difference both passed iodine tests.

not sure what you mean by "grain easier". if you meant "drain easier" then no i didn't notice a difference. i ratchet the basket up so the bottom is just inside the kettle and then i set the temp to 205F in automode. when it gets to 205 (about 10-15 mins) i pull the basket out and pull it out and by that time it is dripping just a little bit with both the 100% mesh and the hard side basket. no real difference that i could tell.
 
I was just getting ready to buy the system when I saw this. Is this a big deal? I don't want to spend all this money and this be a problem.

It's not that big of a deal. It's a cheap way of doing what they're doing but not a deal breaker at all. If it bothers you just drill a hole in the basket and screw it through both ears until it's tight.
 
My system isn't their single BIAB setup by the way. I run wide open.

I think is possible on my setup because there is about 3.5 gallons of wort below the mash screen.
 
Curious how far "open" or at what rate others run their pump during mash recirculation? Thx!

It depends. I've been able to run full open but at times no where near. Crush and grain type is a factor. But I think a big factor is how you add the grains. I've started the pump and then added grains and this seems to be the best strategy. If I try to stir after that it screws things up. Seems like if I let the grain bed develop on its own and stop touching it then it can run full open from start to finish. But I'm also making sure to use some rice hulls to be safe.
 
sorry, i nerded out and wrote my own brewing software so no brewsmith profile.
 
Bringing up an old thread but what efficiencies are people getting on their Colorado Brewing systems ?
 
My brewhouse efficiency is about 70%, mash efficiency about 75%. But I am using the mill at the LHBS and have no idea what the crush is really like. Lots of other people get much better efficiency with their own mills.
 
My brewhouse efficiency is about 70%, mash efficiency about 75%. But I am using the mill at the LHBS and have no idea what the crush is really like. Lots of other people get much better efficiency with their own mills.
The master brewers association of the americas has a podcast that talks about the importance of calibrating your mill.
 

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