CO2 Reulator Help

[RiverRats]

Hey all, I recently built a kegerator which seems to be working well, except for the CO2 regulator. I am really struggling with that. This is my first kegging experience. It seems to be fairly simple, but I really could just be doing something wrong.

So, I have a dual guage CO2 regulator. It's inline and has another guage at the end that lists PSI and "order gas." I assume this shows you how full your tank is. That guage isn't giving any sort of reading at all. The If I turn the knobs on the guage in the middle the PSI goes up and gas is released. For the guage closest to the tank itself, no matter which way I turn the knobs, no gas is released. I don't really understand how that could be the case since the guage after it is releasing gas. It has to be passing through there.

The CO2 regulator seems to be hooked up properly. I have the washer inbetween the regulator and the CO2 tank an I tightened it with a wrench. There doesn't seem to be a leak there. I'm really at a loss. Is the regulator broken, or am I missing something totally obvious?

 

[TrickyDick]

I'm having problems too but perhaps I can help.

First off, is your CO2 tank known to be full, or could it be empty?

Next, some of the regulators, when they mount to the CO2 cylinder require a gasket, and others have an intergrated O-ring. Perhaps you didn't install the gasket if necessary and your tank emptied unbeknownst to you?

Assuming the tank is full, and the gasket/washer is fine, is the tank opened or is the main tank valve closed?

Assuming tank is on, full of gas, and regulator properly connected, there is no pressure seen on the tank pressure gauge. Sometimes these gauges have a faceplate with the numbers on the dial, like the face of clock. I have seen they can get damaged by mishandling of the regulator and can bend. if they bend, it will prevent the needle from indicating the true pressure. inspect the dial to ensure that the faceplate isn't damaged. Assuming it isn't damaged, and everything else checks out, if you get no pressure on this gauge, there is a problem. It could be a be regulator. In this case, I would turn off the adjustable regulator dial, and then turn off the tank, and then disconnect the regulator from the tank. YOu should hear gas escape when you do this, because if you turned off the regulator first, there will be pressurized gas in the regulator tubing/body. If you hear none, then you have either a defective tank, a defective regulator, or both.

Good Luck

TD

 

[OneImpBrewery]

I dont think you are missing anything obvious you are doing it right. Is this on a freshly refilled Co2 Tank? Turn off the knobs in between and see what it does. There should be a quick fluxuation when you open the cylinder. If not the one way to test it is to open the cylinder without the regulator. If its empty there will be nothing if not there will be a very loud rush of air. Be prepared to turn it off quickly but thats how to tell. Hope this helps

-Imp

 

[TrickyDick]

when you say dual gauge, how many regulators are there. just one? I re-read your post and now am confused. A photo may be helpful

Thanks

TD

 

[RiverRats]

Here is a picture of the regulator that I have:

The only difference is that there is a sticker on the knobs that show you which way to turn to release gase or close it off.

To answer your questions...

The CO2 tank is known to be filled. I just picked it up from the LHBS. Also, CO2 flows and I get readings on the guage that I've labeled #1. No CO2 will flow out of the guage labeled #2. Also, the guage at the very end that is supposed to show how full the tank is, provides no reading at all.

I've tried adjusting all of the knobs to see if the guage on the end or #2 will give a reading. No amount of adjusting seemed to make any difference. The tank valve is definitely open.

Thanks all for your help!

 

[TrickyDick]

OK.

the pressure gauge at the end will show the manifold pressure and tank pressure. It is reading zero because it is either damaged (a common thing is that the metal/foil clockface behind it is contacting the needle, preventing it from moving), or perhaps that teflon tape is plugging the port inside the regulator body. If you have the tools and some spare teflon tape, you could disconnect the pressure gauge to see if that is the case or not.

as far as gauge number 2, the only possibilities I can think of are that it is broken, or that you need to engage the regulator adjustment. There is a plastic cap on the top of the adjustment nut. Behind the knob is an adjustment nut/screw. I'm not entirely sure how these knobs are attached or removed. I believe there is a plastic socket into which the adjustment nut should fit. It could be stripped I suppose and will not turn the nut. These knobs usually also push in and pull out. One position is for making adustment, the other to lock. Try pulling (it takes a surprising amount of energy) it until it pops or snaps into place and see if you can make adjustments then. As for the two regulator gauges, I hate the high pressure ranges these show. Consider replacing those with 0-30 psi gauges if you can so you can better appreciate the actual psi you are sending to your kegs.

Good luck. Oh, and from the look of it, your regulator requires those washers it seems, since they've included some spares tied to the pressure relief safety valve. Lastly, these dual regulator setups can typically unbalance a CO2 cylinder, esp the smaller bottles made of aluminum. I would see if you can get a safety cage to put around it, and/or find one of those plastic shoes put rest you tank in to stabilize it. Another thing that will make life so much easier is to determine if the Male Flare nut fittings to which you'll connect your gas lines to have integrated check valves, so that gas goes only one way, and that no liquid can enter the regulator body. Do it now while you have the opportunity and if needed, replace those MPT to MFL brass fittings with ones that have a check valve. Even better, try and find a MPT to MFL with both a check valve AND a stop-cock. Makes life much easier.

TD