Cool, good to know but i will probably stick to filtration. I just wish I could get the filtration to go a little better for me personally.
Bulldog - Some guys have had problems with the snap ring. Unless your diptube o-ring is in perfect shape, the snap ring isn't thick enough to compress everything together as well as it should. The original spiral rings are available from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#92370a251/)
Edit: Info on spiral ring installation: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/installing-retaining-ring-sanke-keg-64128/
Bulldog - Some guys have had problems with the snap ring. Unless your diptube o-ring is in perfect shape, the snap ring isn't thick enough to compress everything together as well as it should. The original spiral rings are available from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#92370a251/)
Edit: Info on spiral ring installation: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/installing-retaining-ring-sanke-keg-64128/
I measured, but want to verify that the rings are 2 1/4", is that right?
No, they are ~2.145. The McMaster part number I linked to is the correct one.
Id stick to the Sanke snap rings if I were you! I have heard nothing about the standard ones, except they are harder to get in and out. The C-style rings... well I hear they are pretty easy to get in and out, but also have a tendency to leak gas. I'd rather learn how to properly use the standard equipment and not have the potential headache of my CO2 bottle emptying in my kegerator. It takes me a second to remove a ring I put on. Takes me about 10 seconds with a brewery applied ring. Putting them in is the time consuming part, and that is simplified with practice. Little trick, make sure the end of the spring you will be pulling out next time lines up with a keyhole. This makes it simple to get your blade/screwdriver under and then turn your wrist to remove the ring. EASY!!!!!
Is there a parts list anywhere, with links? This thread is getting long, and wading through looking for parts is taking way too much time.
Thanks.
To cut the spear on a Sankey keg, or not to cut the spear. What is your choice, and why?
I have only made a few batches this way, but if I spring for another spunding valve I'll go with a fixed relief valve around 7-8psi.
I am still working in Corny's only, I don't own any Sanke kegs. But, I have pressure tested my cornies to 80psi.
The adjustable spunding valve I built when I lived in Texas (early 2008?) is a great brewhouse tool, but I don't need all that flexibility to make the pale ales I mostly brew. And it is hard to clean.
I have mostly been filling the primary fermenter Corny to about 4.5 Gallons, with a jump tube from the grey post on the primary to the black post on a second Corny with a bit of water in the bottom, perhaps a quart, and then putting the spunding valve on the grey post of the second Corny.
That's harvested yeast in Corny number two, at three generations I am happy. Once primary has settled down I tend to push the 4.5 gallons out of Corny number one onto a half gallon of water in Corny number three, no spunding valve, just let it build pressure as it finishes.
Once it is done, two-three weeks or so from pitch it is ready to chill, tap and enjoy.
That's interesting about racking onto a half gallon of water. Never thought of that to get to a full corny. Do you bump your recipe up or is there no real noticeable difference?
I successfully pressure fermented my 2nd batch in a corny. This time I filled it up to the welded seam, ~ 5 gal, and had the gauge pre-set to 12.5 psi the whole time. My gas line remained clear almost up to the end, and then I got a little something that came through. This is a Dead Guy clone with one packet of us-05 in it. Here is the direct link; 10/23/11 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I now have a dedicated 'Spartanburg' corny that my spunding valve rides on. I send the first little bit of yeast to this when I pressure transfer too. That way I only get clear beer in the serving keg, baby!
Did you shorten your dip tube in the corny?
The beer port on a Sanke should never be left open after any pressure is in the keg. There is only a small opening in the gas port on a Sanke tap connector, and that causes pressure building in a keg regardless of anything else like beer's liquid pressure in a dip-tube assembly. Yeast produce a lot of CO2, at least a lot more than I ever realized until I started using pressure.Brewed a 50 liter batch of stout yesterday, and put it into a sanitized Sankey, got the 3/4 inch cut off the spear, and put the spring original ring in place. Got that bad boy back home, sanitized the Sankey tap after removing that pea and retaining clip. Pitched the Yeast.
My pressure relief valve / pressure gauge has not yet arrived.
Will I wake up to a lot of wort / krausen / beer on the floor, or can I leave it with the tap on top and relax? ( Ran out of home brewed beer )
**** Answer Wort was Everywhere *** Pressure built up despite having both the gas and the liquid ports on the taps open.
No I didn't. What I think is cool is to transfer that first little bit of yeast into my 'spartanburg' keg then move the transfer line to my serving keg, nothing but clear beer, baby! The blue handle keg is my dedicated 'spartanburg' keg that my spunding valve rides one.
Well I have a penny, and a beer nut. Do I remove anything from the Sanke tap connector prior to hooking this up?I like to use a sanitized penny, gasket, and beer nut to close off my beer port on a Sanke tap connector.