Chris Knight's brew rig

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Just for clarification, I used this regulator:
http://www.plumbingworld.com/gasvalves.html
325 Series High Quality Pressure Regulators

These Pressure Regulators Feature:

  • Regulates either propane or natural gas
  • CSA certified
  • Maximum total capacity of 300 cubic ft. per hour (CFH)
  • Pressure at outlet: 4wc - 12wc
  • LPG gas max inlet pressure: 2 PSI
  • Natural gas max inlet pressure: 5 PSI
  • Individual maximum load rating: 300,000 BTU per hour
  • Suitable for multi-poise mounting
  • If using a vent limiting device, the regulator must be in a horizontal upright position
  • Install regulator properly with gas flowing as indicated by the arrow on the casting
  • Click here for dimensions
 
tomroeder said:
It looks like it is made of nitrile? Maybe PVC? If so, good deal, those should work well with natural gas. I found that my first choice, EPDM rubber, which is common for rubber hose, has a bad reaction with natural gas.

Looking good! Have you tested it to see how long it takes to bring 5 gal of water to a boil?
Click to expand...

Not yet... I'm planning on busting out 4 5-gallon batches this weekend. Trial by fire! lol
 
Sweet!!!

59.jpg
 
Sweet Radio Flier in the background ;).

I test fired my burners with the kettles last night on my powder coated rig which is the same color. After about 10 minutes I started to get some discoloration in the powder coating where it was getting really hot on the frame. I'm working on some heat shields to try to protect it a bit.

Not sure if you've thought of this, but thought I'd mention it. I think the powder coating I had done cured at 400° F I think. I'm pretty sure I got it hotter than that.
 
diatonic said:
Sweet Radio Flier in the background ;).

I test fired my burners with the kettles last night on my powder coated rig which is the same color. After about 10 minutes I started to get some discoloration in the powder coating where it was getting really hot on the frame. I'm working on some heat shields to try to protect it a bit.

Not sure if you've thought of this, but thought I'd mention it. I think the powder coating I had done cured at 400° F I think. I'm pretty sure I got it hotter than that.
Click to expand...


Yeah, mine is too a bit on the arm tips. I don't mind it at all.
:)

diatonic said:
How did your brew day(s) go?
Click to expand...


Only got 2 batches done. This weekend I will do the other 2.
 
Its so beautiful. The polished kegs are quite the eye candy. I know that must have been some work but well worth it
 
Are the plate/counterflow chiller guys the only ones who get cold break like that? I've never been able to do that with my immersion chiller.
 
Is that a 10 gallon batch split into 2 fermenters?

What's the extra keg for in the background :)

sweet setup, slight upgrade over your youtube videos
 
chrisknight said:
My buddy is in heating & cooling, he is really anal about pressure. Just light all 3 burners and adjust the set screw to correct flame height... :)
Click to expand...

Do you know if the regulator has to be on the stand, or can it be at the other end of the hose?

Just got my SS brutus stand today. This thing is heavy!
 
Yambor44 said:
Do you know if the regulator has to be on the stand, or can it be at the other end of the hose?

Just got my SS brutus stand today. This thing is heavy!
Click to expand...


It can be at the other end, BUT, if you get the regulator with a vent limiting device, the regulator must be mounted in a horizontal upright position.

Ooohhh.. Stainless. Start up your thread! lol
 
crypt0 said:
Is that a 10 gallon batch split into 2 fermenters?

What's the extra keg for in the background :)

sweet setup, slight upgrade over your youtube videos
Click to expand...


Nope. 2 different 5.5-gallon batches. Pre-prohibition kit from northern brewer (left) and an American amber. I'm doing a pale ale this weekend to use up the rest of my 50lbs sack of Rahr from last year. The other keg had bud in it from a party, it will be going back to the distributor.
 
chrisknight said:
It can be at the other end, BUT, if you get the regulator with a vent limiting device, the regulator must be mounted in a horizontal upright position.

Ooohhh.. Stainless. Start up your thread! lol
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's the one I got. Thanks for reminding me. My coupler for the "gas in" on my stand shoots out of the bottom is why I am asking. I am going to look into adding a stainless 90 degree elbow and run the regulator horizontal like you said.
 
Chris,

Whats the distance from your burner tip to the bottom of your keg? Were you happy with that when you brewed?

Also, did you have to use an adapter to go from your burner to the 1/2" pipe? My burner orifice is to small to accept the 1/2" galvanized pipe.
 
Yambor44 said:
Chris,

Whats the distance from your burner tip to the bottom of your keg? Were you happy with that when you brewed?

Also, did you have to use an adapter to go from your burner to the 1/2" pipe? My burner orifice is to small to accept the 1/2" galvanized pipe.
Click to expand...


I'm pretty sure you DON'T want to use galvanized pipe. Use black pipe. The burners are about 4 and 1/2" away from the bottom of the kettle. Yes, those burners are 3/8" so you'll have to reduce it.
 
chrisknight said:
I'm pretty sure you DON'T want to use galvanized pipe. Use black pipe. The burners are about 4 and 1/2" away from the bottom of the kettle. Yes, those burners are 3/8" so you'll have to reduce it.
Click to expand...

I've heard that too. Do you happen to know why? I'm looking at Lonnie Mac's plans and they appear to have galvanized pipe.
 
Yambor44 said:
Gotcha. Does it react with Natural Gas as well?
Click to expand...

Yes, the rate is slower but the reaction does occur there as well. The bottom line is galvanized pipe is not acceptable practice for fuel gas applications. It's also a code violation in most instances so best just to use black pipe which is slightly cheaper anyway. Or go stainless.
 
Irrenarzt said:
Yes, the rate is slower but the reaction does occur there as well. The bottom line is galvanized pipe is not acceptable practice for fuel gas applications. It's also a code violation in most instances so best just to use black pipe which is slightly cheaper anyway. Or go stainless.
Click to expand...

Went back and looked at Lonnie Mac's specs. Shows $53 worth of SS nipples so I assume what looks like galvanized to me is actually stainless.

Also, I just realized when you mentioned the code thing, when my plumber installed my NG line for me to tie into, he used galvanized. :confused: :mad:
 
Yeah Lonnie's rig has no galvanized stuff as far as I can tell.

Also, the rate of this corrosion reaction is slow but it never passivates (so it will corrode through eventually). Code will allow for NG/galvanized in some states. I know CO and CA allows it, but NM and AZ do not. Go figure. Best to err on the side of caution.
 
The ban on galvinized pipe is related to the bad old days before they scrubbed the H2S from natural gas, that did bad things to both copper and galvinized surfaces.
 
Hey CK, Nice rig and setup. Question for ya, what size pot lids are those in the picture? They seem to cover the whole keg top.
 
chrisknight said:
My buddy is in heating & cooling, he is really anal about pressure. Just light all 3 burners and adjust the set screw to correct flame height... :)
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I test fired one burner. Decent flame. Mostly blue. Shoots about 8 inches past where the bottom of the pot would be. I tightened the set screw all the way down until it wouldn't turn any more and noticed absolutely no change in the flame. I am only running one burner at the moment (as I will be when brewing most of the time).Didn't change it when I turned it to the left mostly "open" either.

Any thoughts?

Sorry about the blurry pics. Was trying to get a pic without the flash and the speed is too slow.




 

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