Chill haze

[Safa]

Great hot break, Irish moss at 10 minutes, and then chilled to 70 in about 8 minutes post boil.

Yet I am still seeing chill haze? Beer is brilliant in bottle, could read a newspaper through it, but as soon as it's cold it's cloudy.

Any tips? What am I missing?

 

[NTXBrauer]

How long has the beer been chilled? I normally see my bottles clear up after 3+ days in the fridge, and they only improve as you get closer to a week.

 

[Safa]

I had no idea that extended time in the fridge could fix it! I'll leave it a few more days and see how things improve.

Appreciate the help

 

[MDHarris]

I don't know if its coincidence but I started mashing at higher temps as an experiment (155-160&#8457 and my beers had chill haze. My last 2 batches were mashed at 150℉ and the haze was gone. It could have been anything that caused the haze or got rid of it but the process was the same except for the mash temps. If someone can chime in about starch conversion in reference to mash temps it might help.

 

[Malric]

Bulk chilling prior to packaging helps. You'll need to pitch new yeast if you naturally carb. You cqn also try switching to whirlflock. That seemed to help for mem

 

[Skeptidelphian]

Bulk chilling prior to packaging helps. You'll need to pitch new yeast if you naturally carb. You cqn also try switching to whirlflock. That seemed to help for mem

I've never had to pitch new yeast after cold crash.

 

[DSmith]

Bulk chilling and using gelatin + 3-5 days more chilling will eliminate chill haze.

I reyeast practically every batch with Lalvin EC-1118 after using gelatin for bottling, stored at about 70F for carbonation.

 

[Safa]

I've cold crashed before many times and never had to repitch, do you find that you absolutely have to, or is it just an insurance measure that you've never tried to go without?

Was hoping that my new burner and wort chiller together would mean I wouldn't have to bother with cold crashing or gelatin anymore, it seems many people have great success without it as long as they get good breaks. I'll check that beer again tomorrow and see if the haze has dissipated after about 5 days in the fridge

 

[DSmith]

I've found that cold crashing an average gravity ale doesn't need any more yeast. Always have added more yeast after finning.

I had an issue once with a 10% beer, long primary, months of secondary, cold crash that never carbonated after waiting months (trying everything from inverting bottles, keeping 75F+...). What finally worked is opening each bottle and adding the Lalvin EC-1118.

After that experience and the cost of <$1/batch, I add about 1 gram/5 gallons for every batch and have had very predictable carbonation timing with just a dusting of yeast in the bottles. There are beers I'll skip this step (IPA's & wheats,...)

On my system, here's an example of a not-dryhopped beer without and with gelatin (below, beers are different styles). I check mash pH, sparge with RO, boil for good hot break, chill fast for cold break, whirlfloc in boil kettle.... I dump everything from the boil kettle into the primary so this could be the issue but I don't want to loose the wort.

 

[TimelessCynic]

I've never had to pitch new yeast after cold crash.

Neither have I

 

[fmr_army]

Wow.

That is some seriously clear beer.

Wow.