Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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I built my mash tun based on info from this thread and I've been super happy with it. But here are a couple thoughts I'd pass on to anybody looking to build one of these.

1) Use actual real stainless steel washers on the inside of the mash tun. I couldn't find actual stainless steel and the washers I used worked fine, but have eventually corroded enough that I'm ordering new real stainless steel washers from Bolt Depot. I haven't noticed anything terrible in the beers I've brewed, but it sure doesn't look like anything I want beer hanging out in.

2) Use a stainless steel braid from a water heater supply instead of the toilet supply hoses. Every person I know of that has complained about their stainless steel braid getting smashed or letting grain husks through has used the toilet supply hose. The water heater supply hoses are heavier duty and just the right length.

If you are doing a batch sparge their is absolutely no reason for the braid to be any more than a few inches. And I'm not sure that fact changes if you do a fly sparge. People say it makes a difference. I don't believe them and have never seen anything other than opinions to back it up. The water heater supply hoses are plenty long to reach from the ball valve all the way across the middle of the mash tun. That is plenty. AND they are strong enough not to get crushed by the weight of the grain or by any amount of stirring I've done in my mashes.

Follow these two bits of advice and you'll be glad that you won't have to replace washers. And you won't try to convince yourself to buy one of those actual bazooka screens or a false bottom.
 
I made the mash tun described by the OP using a five gallon Rubbermaid (Home Depot) and it works just as described.

Like others in the thread, I had difficulty finding 5/8" ID, Stainless Steel washers. So, I purchased large nylon washers with a 1/4" ID and just drilled them out with a 5/8" bit. Using the seal ring that came with the cooler and two of the nylon washers (all complemented with food-safe silicon sealer) on the inside and three close to 5/8" metric, zinc washers as the outside spacers, I was able to create a very tight, non-leak spigot.

I decided to make a second 10 gallon tun using the same set up. However, this one had a very slow leak. No matter what I tried, additional nylon washers, plenty of silicon sealer, the slow leak persisted.

I ended up finding another way to mount the spigot based on directions found on another web site. I just used a drilled cork (left over from my first one gallon starter brew kit). It fit quite snugly in the cooler spigot hole, and even more snugly once I shoved a 6" length of 3/8" ID, copper tubing through it. I fit the braided, stainless steel tubing over the copper tubing on the inside. Then using braided, high heat tubing and a couple of clamps, I connected a double barb PEX ball valve to the copper tubing on the outside. Added another length of plastic tubing to the ball valve.

It works great.
 
I just picked up two igloo coolers this week for $30. I was intending to do the Home Depot/Lowes build but looked through Amazon and found what I needed for great prices.

3 piece ball valve $19
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZC08F0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Bazooka Screen $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWCLVRO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Bulkhead $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHM38RE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quick Disconnect female $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEFHIK8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quick Disconnect male $6.50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OF85I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

10' of 1/2 ID High temp food grade hose $14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOV0MS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I believe shipping was all of $8 and not counting the gift cards I had it was about $60 for all this stuff. I don't NEED the hose for the mash tun so that would drop the price as well as the female QD but I'll use them with it and it was a combined order so I'm counting it.

I went with the quick disconnects because my step father has those for his pump and I figured I'd match it. It was also about the same price to buy anything else to attach into the ball valve. I believe they're $20 locally EACH so I wanted to jump on this. I had $45 in gift cards on my Amazon account so it ends up costing me $25. I'll have to buy another bulkhead, ball valve, and quick disconnect if I want to convert my other cooler into a HLT.


What kind of mash efficiency are people seeing with their cooler mash tuns? I was getting around 73% brewhouse doing BIAB so I'm hoping to stay there or go up. I can't really say I could effectively measure mash efficiency doing BIAB.
 
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I always seem to hit or exceed the recipe target OG with my mash tuns with a 60 - 75 minute mash (at 150 - 154 F) and two sparges using 180 F water.

I checked temp during the mash every 15 minutes the first few times I used the cooler mash tuns. They both held temp easily for the duration and I don't even bother checking now.
 
Picked up everything but the stainless steel washer (of course) but can get them up in the city. Also, I am trying to find some of the high temp hose to go inside the braided stainless steel line without success at lowes or my little home store. Any suggestions? I don't really want to buy it online and pay shipping and what not.
 
Just saw on here where the stainless steel hose clamps were getting corroded which is why I was thinking about doing it.

Other than that, what type of hosing are people using from the barb on the outside to their kettle and what not? High temp stuff or food grade polyethylene? Silicone tubing?
 
Tactical-Brewer said:
Just saw on here where the stainless steel hose clamps were getting corroded which is why I was thinking about doing it.

Other than that, what type of hosing are people using from the barb on the outside to their kettle and what not? High temp stuff or food grade polyethylene? Silicone tubing?
Click to expand...

Standard clear PVC vinyl hoses only have a temp rating up to 140F.

For the tubing that drains the mash tun, high temp silicone is best, considering you are mashing at about 150-160.

For the tubing that drains from the kettle, I just use standard PVC. I use an immersion chiller to get it down to pitching temps, so it's only about 70F when I drain the kettle.
 
Hey guys, I just ordered a Igloo 10gal round cooler to make a MLT. I failed to realize this has the press on lid rather than the screw on like the Rubbermaid.

For those of you using the Igloo brand, has there been any issues with the lids coming off while you were lifting these up to place on the platform?

The last thing I want is near-boiling water splashing out on my face as I lift it up. The Igloo was just under 45 bucks or so from Amazon. The RM's were about 73 or so. I'm thinking about just sending it back unless you guys use them without problems.

KT
 
I would fill the cooler in place if you need it at a height. I have found a one gallon pitcher ideal for moving sparge water or runnings a gallon at a time rather than trying to lift extreme weights. There is also no need to raise it that high, place the vessel you are running to on the floor, then raise the runnings a gallon at a time, or catch runnings in a couple buckets and empty them a few times. Moving 5-10 gallons at once can be sketchy for most. Placing your HLT 6 feet high so you can run Gravity is kinda silly IMHO rather just raise the batch in several lifts as you proceed.

The Igloo should be fine IMHO. I wouldn't incorporate lifting either with much inside.
 
Wilser, a week ago Saturday when I bit off three batches, my back was starting to hurt early into the second brew. I chalked it up to just typical soreness, took some Aleve and brewed on. By the end of the 3rd batch, I could barely move the last carboy to the basement. Forget using a milk crate, I could never balance the front weight of the carboy being held in front of me so I risked it and used the carboy handle. By bedtime, I could barely walk. Eight days later, I'm still feeling it in my lower back. I have slept on a heating pad for 4 days. Ugg

If I could ever justify a brewstand I did that day. I collect wort in a 15 gallon pot sitting on the floor, then move to the burner, then pick the pots up and place it on the table before racking. I'm always a little sore, but never anything that last more than a day. Biting off the 3rd batch - especially when I had not even made a starter for it was foolish. Ultimately I think my impatience cost me about 3% ABV as the batch has still not made it below 1.020. By the time I was done cooling, I could almost just have poured it down the sink. Fun had done left the house. lol

All that said, if I can avoid lifting to the 6' height of the shelf, I will. I feel a pump might be on my next purchase list. Anyway, as for the cooler, I thought I was buying the same thing my Home Depot cooler was. Only when I zoomed in on the picture after I ordered it did I realize it was not the screw on lid. No wonder it was cheaper.

I'm looking forward to doing a true fly sparge. Until now, I've always set a aluminum turkey basting pan on top of the mash tun with a bunch of holes poked in it and using a water pitcher to keep filled. Nothing wrong with that technique as it works perfectly, just a PITA to keep filled.

To top the cake of bad luck with brewing setbacks, a cpl days ago as I was trucking across the property mowing with the mower set to the fastest speed, I hit a pine stump that was buried beneath some leaves. Had it not been for the steering wheel catching me, it would have thrown me over the front of the mower. Ultimately, I bent my deck, warped a blade and bent the drive spindle and my steering wheel. I feel like I was in a wreck now. lol

The cost to repair my lawn tractor will probably far exceed what a brew stand would cost. John Deere thinks a lot of their parts. Sad thing is, I was using a old set of blades just for the reason to find out where all the old stumps and rocks were at with this house that I just moved into. I got careless and in a hurry jamming to some 12bar blues.

Gotta love it when the crow stays on your 6. lol
 
Hey FlyGuy! Glad I found your build, as I'm in Calgary and doing the same thing. Did you buy all your parts locally - I actually been having issues with HomeDepot - finding the brass lead-free parts that I need. :mad:
 
I built one using a 5 gallon rubbermaid that I picked up used for $15. After a good soak with OxyClean the inside was good as new.

I got most of the fittings from Ace hardware locally after struggling with it Menard's. When I assembled, I found the 1 1/2" nipple way too long, even after adding a couple more washers on the outside. I exchanged it for a "close nipple" that is all threads and maybe about an inch long total.
This seems to have worked well with one SS washer on the inside and one fender washer on the outside. I was able to get a good tight fit that doesn't seem to leak.
It seems to be holding hot water without leaking, but I haven't brewed with this yet. I don't suspect I'll get different results than anyone else though.
 
So I built this today. I used one of the 10 gallon igloos. It took me like 5-6 times but I ended up getting it to not leak. I needed to use extra o rings to help seal it.
 
msa8967 said:
Does the color of the plastic on the inside of a cooler matter when converting it to a mashtun? I know it needs to be white for a fermenting bucket. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I would assume not. You are using a water cooler, correct? I would hope the plastic on the inside is foods grade safe and that max 185 degree water wouldn't affect the inside itself.
 
LJvermonster said:
I would assume not. You are using a water cooler, correct? I would hope the plastic on the inside is foods grade safe and that max 185 degree water wouldn't affect the inside itself.
Click to expand...

This Gott cooler has orange plastic for its liner. First time I have ever seen the same cooler of the body of the cooler as the liner.
 
msa8967 said:
This Gott cooler has orange plastic for its liner. First time I have ever seen the same cooler of the body of the cooler as the liner.
Click to expand...

Also, looking at reviews online, it seems the only problem with this cooler is that the top leaks. Obviously yours will be standing still buy if the lid is that loose you may loose some efficiency in the cooler itself (e.g. the temp may drop). If you already have the cooler and can't return it you should go for it, I think you'll be fine.
 
First post!

I am converting a 5 gallon Rubbermaid to a SS false bottom MLT. I have not seen this question specifically asked, so please direct me if I have missed it. I have searched, but man there's a ton of great information to sift through.

For false bottom installations I have seen folks use hose to go from screen barb to outlet valve barb. I have also seen installations with a hard pipe between the two using compression fittings.

Which would be preferable?

I assume with the hose you get a cost savings, and easier removal for cleaning. But would you run the minimal risk of pinching the hose or disconnecting it accidentally? Maybe also allow the false bottom to move around? I can't imagine that would be very likely with all the grain weight pressing down.

The hard pipe option, I would think would still be removable for cleaning if you didn't crank down unreasonably on the compression nuts, no crush or disconnect issue, plus you'd have the advantage of being able to use the hard pipe to help keep the false bottom seated on the bottom of the cooler.

I am leaning toward hard pipe, but am I blind to any disadvantages?

Thanks!
 
I've seen it many different ways. the grain will not close down on the tube.

but like many, i use a bag. so much easier, and it also makes cleanup a breeze.
 
pmsjr said:
First post!
Click to expand...

Welcome to HBT! :mug:

I am leaning toward hard pipe, but am I blind to any disadvantages?
Click to expand...

Don't discount ease of removing the FB - or at least moving enough to get out of the way of a blast of water. Hard plumbing would make that at least incrementally more difficult with no obvious advantage over flexible tubing (reinforced silicone tubing, for example).

I use tubing on my 10g Rubbermaid, fwiw, and simply pull the FB up from the opposite side from the ball valve to hose out from under.

But, if you go with hard piping, do yourself a huge favor and use nylon compression sleeves...

Cheers!
 
Thanks. Man, there's so much to read up on. I am sure the efficiency on the job I actually get paid to do has dropped substantially in the last few months.

Yes, nylon compression sleeves is exactly what I was thinking. It's not like those connections have to be completely leak free either, so I figure use those and just finger tighten the nuts. Cut the hard pipe to a length that'd allow me to slide it a bit more into one fitting/out of the other then pull up the whole plate. Hoping that might not be any more trouble than pulling up the FB as you suggest if I go the hose route, and I'd get the benefit of knowing the FB is a bit more "fixed" to the bottom.
 
HoosteezMorgan said:
Can I use a ten gallon without a lid or will the 3 gallon lid fit on the ten gallon
Click to expand...

You will need a lid to maintain temperature. I don't know if you are planning on batch or fly sparge, but if you plan to batch sparge, you don't need the round cooler. I would recommend you follow Denny's advice. Much cheaper, easier to assemble (less parts) and works just as well, maybe better.

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
 
I built my 10-gallon rubbermaid home-depot cooler today. having all the part numbers was a real breeze, but i must admit I was a little confused about just where the o-ring is supposed to fit. the opening in the front of the cooler is way bigger. I ended up pushing it back in between the threaded nipple and the stock spigot seal. I also got smaller 5/8 washer for the front that would fit in the indentation on the front, so they would help keep the whole arrangement centered. for the stainless washer, I got a metric one that would just barely fit on the threads of the nipple, then dremeled it out a tiny bit. It took a couple tries of putting it together and guessing how tight to make it, but when i made it 'fairly tight without large tools' it stopped leaking, so i'm tentatively optimistic.

had to make 3 extra trips to the store, one because the stock seal on mine was caught in the threads and damaged (poorly assembled by mfr), and another to exchange a washer that wasn't the size it was labeled, and one final trip to get a couple smaller fender-washers for the front. If it works perfectly from here on out, I'll be semi glad I spent a few hours to save 50 bucks or so. If not, then at least I learned something.
 
I'm going to try and buy the stuff to build one of these today. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
It seems the hard thing to find in Central New York in February is a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. The folks at Home Depot had 2 in stock but they weren't on the floor yet. No one wanted to sell me one enough to go get it. Unfortunately, they appear to be the only place in 100 miles that I can find with them. So I went online and ordered it for pick up at the store. Seems someone will have to get it unpacked now anyway. The coolers were $48 at Home Depot, which is a solid $20 less than I can find them anywhere else. I spent a fair amount of time bopping around to find everything else I needed, but hopefully, after the cooler, I've got it all. I've got substitute stainless washers as I couldn't find the thicker fender washers even at Fastenal. They did have a pack of stainless washers there that are thinner and figured I'd just use more as needed. My braided hose looks much thicker than the one in the photos and I'm hoping it 'deflates' a bit after all the hardware is off so that I can get a good seal with my internal fittings. All said and done, I'm at about $100 into this so far though I'll have some extra o-rings and washers. Hope it works. It looks like a very similar product can be purchased complete (plus shipping) for around $130 from Northern Brewer. I'm seeing other folks saying the 3/8" fittings are the wrong size now too, I hope that isn't the case.

IMG_2156.jpg
 
I found the washers, fittings and spigots easiest to order from Amazon.

Your braided hose size will be fine. You will be cutting the ends off to remove the plastic liner tube and clamping with the worm clamps.

Been a while since I built mine but I believe the 3/8" refers to the fitting inner diameter (ID).
 
I bought the parts for this a couple of years ago and have yet to build it...lol. I guess I just haven't found a good reason to do any batch sparging yet. My local brew shop sells a false bottom made specifically for these Rubbermaid coolers so I went with that option rather than the braided hose. Maybe one day when the kids are grown and I'm retired I'll get around to building mine...
 
OK, the cooler search is getting silly. I'm going to buy a rectangle one and go from there. Drill my own hole if needed.
 

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