Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[mendesm]

Funny you mention that. I was having leaks too with the build as it was written. I just kept tightening it down as much as I could and finally got it there...took some work, but it's rock solid now.

I was able to get rid of the leaks with just 4 washers, but i was not able to open close the ball valve without cringing at the feeling it gave me that it was going move too much without eventually springing a leak.

After I filled the cooler to the top with water and f'ing around enough with the valve, leak it did.

Took everything apart and started to measure everything with a measuring tape and came to the conclusion that my cooler could probably be a bit different and the wall where the spigot was located was a bit thinner than the one used in the OP's post, either by fabrications variations or just a plain different model altogether.

So I added the extra washers, for a total of 6 and 2 orings on the outside and it became rock solid, and no more leaks.

 

[natefrog255]

FYI - Walmart online appears to have an Igloo 10-gallon cooler for $39.95 and you can get free shipping to the store. I don't know if Rubbermaid or Igloo is better and/or easier to work with but its a $5 cheaper than what I saw at Home Depot or anywhere else. I still think I'm going to wait until later in the summer/early fall for a sale.

 

[seedubxj]

Just built this today. Found everything at home depot. Total bill $87.00. Not too shabby. I did buy hose clamps in a bulk bag as well all the build a bolt stainless kit for the 5/8 washers.

 

[seedubxj]

Also so of the watts #s have changed but all the parts are still available. No leak at all used 5 washers outside and an o ring. Valve has plenty of clearance to open and close.

 

[Pie_Man]

Interesting, I just built this and all the part numbers were the same at my home depot. Also, the home depot ss washers didn't work for my build. They didn't fit over the brass nipple which was an issue when tightening everything.

 

[smallbatchbrewer]

I was able to get rid of the leaks with just 4 washers, but i was not able to open close the ball valve without cringing at the feeling it gave me that it was going move too much without eventually springing a leak.

After I filled the cooler to the top with water and f'ing around enough with the valve, leak it did.

Took everything apart and started to measure everything with a measuring tape and came to the conclusion that my cooler could probably be a bit different and the wall where the spigot was located was a bit thinner than the one used in the OP's post, either by fabrications variations or just a plain different model altogether.

So I added the extra washers, for a total of 6 and 2 orings on the outside and it became rock solid, and no more leaks.

The home depot rubbermaid coolers accept a one inch fitting. Instead of fussing with o-rings, washers, nipples and valves, simply use a a plastic valve that usually goes on a fermenter/bottling bucket. For a proper seal, use the rubber washers that come with it only on the inside of the cooler. Hand tighten the plastic nut against the washers, sealing them against the wall of the cooler. You do not want to use o-rings or seals on the outside wall as you would never know if it was leaking in between the inner and outer walls.

Fill it up with hot water and you will be pleased that you have no leaks.

As soon as I get a free evening, I will put a post up that shows how to do this and incorporate a low cost cpvc manifold. Mine works great.

 

[seedubxj]

I did reuse the original seal as well. Maybe I didn't make that clear in my original post.

 

[V1king]

I just built this MLT using the less expensive igloo cooler from Walmart. Everything worked out fine, except for the washers on the outside, which were a hair off on the inside diamter, preventing them from sliding over the brass nipple. I went to Sears Hardware and their washers fit perfect. It took four washers to get a nice seal with no leaks. Plus, I found a thicker rubber O-ring there for the outside seal.

 

[BrewScout]

Do you think these will work in place of the steel washers. I know they are rubber but when compressed rubber can get pretty hard.

 

[Pie_Man]

Do you think these will work in place of the steel washers. I know they are rubber but when compressed rubber can get pretty hard.

I tried rubber washers, but they didn't work for me. They were too soft and compressed too much. IMO, ss is the way to go.

 

[BrewScout]

Well after a lot of searching I found these



Which contain 4 ss washers each. Took a total of 6 to get a good seal. Just built this today and can't wait to use it on fathers day.

 

[classicmarble]

what size...inner/outer?????????????

 

[classicmarble]

...I bought a #9.

 

[Yaason]

I built one of these a few months ago and couldn't be happier with it. No leaks and I drop a max of 1 or 2 degrees when mashing.

 

[classicmarble]

I truly don't understand the o ring...there is a indented space between the outside washers and the cooler where the o ring sits, so there is no compression of the o ring. It just floats. Am I seeing this right?

 

[Pie_Man]

I truly don't understand the o ring...there is a indented space between the outside washers and the cooler where the o ring sits, so there is no compression of the o ring. It just floats. Am I seeing this right?

My o ring fits snugly over the unthreaded part of the brass nipple. It's not really floating in that space. But, to your point, it's probably not needed.

 

[classicmarble]

are you suppose to find smaller washers so you can compress the o ring? That is not what I see in the pictures...Thank you for your input.

 

[day_trippr]

[Aside] This is truly one epic thread. 622,178 views, and 2,216 follow-ups!

But those 2216 follow-ups imply that while the conversion may be "cheap", it's debatable whether it's "easy".

Just sayin'...

Cheers

 

[BrewScout]

what size...inner/outer?????????????

The ID is 5/8", not sure about the OD, but it is just the right size to fit inside the indention where the original spigot sat.

 

[Pie_Man]

are you suppose to find smaller washers so you can compress the o ring? That is not what I see in the pictures...Thank you for your input.

No, the design calls for the parts listed in the first post, the OP did post an update related to the ss hose clamps, but everything else is the same. Your number of ss washers may vary.

With my build, I was able to get the o ring right up to the outside of the rubber grommet piece that comes with the cooler. The o ring fills the extra space in the hole that the brass nipple goes through. I put two o rings there. So, the wall to the round spout hole and the unthreaded part of the brass nipple seem to hold it in place. Are they 100% necessary? Idk, but it's not a big deal to put them there, so I did. It's most important for the pieces on the inside wall to stop any leaking and for everything to be tight.

Have you purchased all the parts? I think if you have everything in front of you it will make more sense. The o rings are cheap, you can buy them and return them if you choose not to use them.

 

[classicmarble]

Ok... thank you pie man...

I do have everything in front of me. unless I find smaller washers to compress the o ring , I see no use for it. What a drag that I can not see.

 

[becsbrew]

I just tried this out without the ss washer inside (couldn't find them anywhere)......definitely leaky. I saw a few of you said you ended up having to buy 5/8" ss washers in large quantities - I'd like to buy one or two from someone. Message me if you have extras, I'll pay postage of course!

 

[BrewScout]

Im about to start my first batch with this MLT and was wondering how many degrees over strike temp is it taking to preheat this thing? Please help! I'm heating water now

 

[verbhertz]

I was going to buy a 10 gallon round cooler but I just got a 5 gallon for free. It should be fine for my brews, I don't brew anything big. I read the first 100 pages awhile ago but can't remember, can I do the same parts / install on a 5 gallon?

 

[JimCharb]

I was going to buy a 10 gallon round cooler but I just got a 5 gallon for free. It should be fine for my brews, I don't brew anything big. I read the first 100 pages awhile ago but can't remember, can I do the same parts / install on a 5 gallon?

I did a 5 gallon using the original instructions using an orange igloo cooler. You may have to use more/less SS washers to get a good seal and be able to open the valve fully (I've read a lot of the posts and it seems that some coolers may differ in wall thickness depending on the brand and age of the cooler). Just buy extra washers and you should be good to go! I've brewed 3 AG batches in mine now...still dialing in and trying to figure out water temp differences for mash in etc but it's fun experimenting. Happy brewing!

 

[verbhertz]

I did a 5 gallon using the original instructions using an orange igloo cooler. You may have to use more/less SS washers to get a good seal and be able to open the valve fully (I've read a lot of the posts and it seems that some coolers may differ in wall thickness depending on the brand and age of the cooler). Just buy extra washers and you should be good to go! I've brewed 3 AG batches in mine now...still dialing in and trying to figure out water temp differences for mash in etc but it's fun experimenting. Happy brewing!

Great thanks! I'd like to brew big beers eventually but no need anytime soon. I'd rather make a tun, practice AG, then make a 10g+ when my process is airtight.

 

[Toneus]

I'm seeing a lot of questions about the o-ring and leaks.

I use a rubber washer between the inside cooler wall and the first SS washer. A second one on the outside wouldn't hurt. The next piece which I think is key. Get some Teflon packing from your local hardware store. This stuff is used for packing of leaking valves. Cut a piece about 1 1/2" to 2" long, and wrap it around the nipple but inside of the rubber washer. You can stretch and mold it to the length and diameter you need. This will stop the flow of liquid coming out between the nipple pipe and washer. You can put a wrap on the outside as well. The packing will crush into the voids of the coller and washers, and thus stop the leak.

I would suggest trying to limit the twisting of the valve assembly, as I'm sure you have plenty if you have a lot of washers. If the packing is good, the twisting won't matter as long as the rubber and first stainless steel washers aren't turning and are packed well.

Cheers,

Tony

 

[grimstuff]

Im about to start my first batch with this MLT and was wondering how many degrees over strike temp is it taking to preheat this thing? Please help! I'm heating water now

Probably a little late for you, but just heat it up about 10-15 degrees above mash temp and let it sit without the lid if it needs to cool down before you mash in. Personally, I prefer to preheat with some of the water I'm preparing on the burner, so I don't have to wait for things to cool down. It also seems to be a bit nicer to the cooler, since a lot of hot water at once can deform the inner lining.

Another thing that people seem to be having trouble with is leaking. It's not in the original design, but I found that a 2"OD 5/8"ID NEOPRENE washer was a critical component to my mash tun between the inner wall of the cooler and the SS washer. Oddly enough, the cooler DID leak without the neoprene washer, but DID NOT leak with only the neoprene washer. In other words, the rubber washer was more important than the SS washer!!

 

[classicmarble]

I don't know what ... Nobody addressed the o ring question at all. I just left it out. No runs, no leaks, yet!

 

[BrewScout]

Mine leaked until I added an oring between the inside washer and original rubber seal that came with the cooler.

 

[barrooze]

I don't know what ... Nobody addressed the o ring question at all. I just left it out. No runs, no leaks, yet!

You didn't really ask a question... Did you have one?

 

[Toneus]

I don't know what ... Nobody addressed the o ring question at all. I just left it out. No runs, no leaks, yet!

Some of us did...

I'm seeing a lot of questions about the o-ring and leaks.

I use a rubber washer between the inside cooler wall and the first SS washer. A second one on the outside wouldn't hurt. The next piece which I think is key. Get some Teflon packing from your local hardware store. This stuff is used for packing of leaking valves. Cut a piece about 1 1/2" to 2" long, and wrap it around the nipple but inside of the rubber washer. You can stretch and mold it to the length and diameter you need. This will stop the flow of liquid coming out between the nipple pipe and washer. You can put a wrap on the outside as well. The packing will crush into the voids of the coller and washers, and thus stop the leak.

I would suggest trying to limit the twisting of the valve assembly, as I'm sure you have plenty if you have a lot of washers. If the packing is good, the twisting won't matter as long as the rubber and first stainless steel washers aren't turning and are packed well.

Cheers,

Tony

Using just the O-ring solo is crap, and will leak into the guts of the cooler. That will be a hot mess long term.

 

[verbhertz]

The more I think about it, should I just use my 5 gallon cooler for an hlt and get a 10 gallon for mlt?

 

[megalomani]

The more I think about it, should I just use my 5 gallon cooler for an hlt and get a 10 gallon for mlt?

That's what I did.

 

[Jdk261]

I would think a 10 gallon cooler is a good minimum volume for your mash tun. Not that you couldn't use a 5 gallon, but 10 would allow you to handle heavier grain bills with less headache

 

[JimCharb]

The more I think about it, should I just use my 5 gallon cooler for an hlt and get a 10 gallon for mlt?

That's also what I did after researching and getting advice from some here and elsewhere. So far (3 batches) it's working well.

 

[verbhertz]

Putting together the tun for my bday in a week or two, so I'll just create the hlt then too. Then my first all grain brewday. I'll be all over this thread from now until then. I read the first 100 plus pages awhile ago but I didn't retain anything. Oh well, reading about beer doesn't get old.

 

[mattyb85]

I bought all the stuff and I wasn't overly happy with it & thought it just didn't feel super sturdy even though it was sealed so I returned the stuff and bought a weld less bulkhead kit from brewhardware.com as well as the 3 piece valve & nipples and I'm much happier. I actually also bought stuff to make a HLT and convert a pot to a brew kettle. Here are a few pics of the MLT & HLT. The MLT is a 10 gallon cooler from Lowes & the HLT is a 5 gallon cooler I already had. I still have to attach the DIY Bazooka screen to the MLT but I'm excited to try them out on my first all grain home brew!

 

[mattyb85]

Here's a pic of my DIY all grain setup!

 

[hnsfeigel]

Ok, so this is probably a stupid question, but I've only been brewing for 6 mos so chalk it up to newbie. Isn't the point of the HLT to be able to heat water in it? If you're using a cooler you couldn't exactly put a fire to it. Good looking setup BTW.