bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
golphur said:
The zinc washers are fine for a few brews, but they will start to oxidize quickly. You can at least try out the system though.
Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion
- Thread starter FlyGuy
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The zinc washers are fine for a few brews, but they will start to oxidize quickly. You can at least try out the system though.
Went back and re-read the post about using vinyl tubing instead of clamps and saw the note about braided stainless being able to support the weight of mash and water. I felt that my braid was rather flimsy and even questioned how it could be steel. Turns out, I had polyurethane braided supply line. I just took whatever the guy at HD handed me. Glad I checked!
Quick trip to Lowes. Bought a confirmed stainless braid. Recut. Back in business. Now I just need those elusive washers.
Quick trip to Lowes. Bought a confirmed stainless braid. Recut. Back in business. Now I just need those elusive washers.
yeah mine crapped out on first mash, not sure what it was, said stainless but moved to a bazooka type kettle screen and worked good. only one stuck sparge but that was with a decoction brew.
Just finished mine...used 1/2" ball valve but ended up having to downsize the supply side (mash) because of the mesh tubing. Might work on getting back up to the larger size later. Will post parts if I do.
FWIW, the washer that comes with the cooler works with a 1/2" brass nipple, just takes some work.
FWIW, the washer that comes with the cooler works with a 1/2" brass nipple, just takes some work.
postalbunny
Well-Known Member
Did this conversion, worked like a charm. If you have trouble locating o-rings then check the faucet repair isle.
Also, for the SS washer... they all seem to stock an SS washer just one size to small. I bought them and drilled them out to fit, they wee also a slight bit skinnier than the zinc ones which aided in sealing against the cooler inside.
Also, for the SS washer... they all seem to stock an SS washer just one size to small. I bought them and drilled them out to fit, they wee also a slight bit skinnier than the zinc ones which aided in sealing against the cooler inside.
Just an FYI, I wonder if some have missed the stainless create a bolt kits at HD, as my HD has zinc and stainless versions of each kit. I actually almost missed them initially, and notice them after a second look. See the pic below, notice the "stainless steel" marking on the 5/8" package on the left is kind of hard to pick up on.
Where did you purchase your false botton from?
CGVT
Senior Member
HomeBrewStuff through Amazon. $29.50+ $5.35 shipping. It got to me in about 3 days.
Amazon.com: Stainless Steel False Bottom for Homebrew Pot: 10": Kitchen & Dining
Amazon.com: Stainless Steel False Bottom for Homebrew Pot: 10": Kitchen & Dining
Last edited by a moderator:
Of course my fastenal was out of the 5/8 SS fenders. So they ordered some for me for $1.65 ea. got 4 of them. I guess I could have gotten by using zinc plated fenders on the outside? I didnt check this thread last night or I would have made a trip to HD to see if they have the bag of bolts/washers.
chigundo
Well-Known Member
I have a 10 gal igloo from a friend that I need to rebuild for use as a mash tun.. there's no parts at all leftover for the spigot... all these directions seem to require the original gasket that comes with the igloo.. what's the replacement part for that gasket if you don't have one to start with?
chigundo said:
I made my gasket out of an old silicone baking sheet... That stuff is rated at 500°....
You can get a silicon o-ring from AHS or try using a garden hose gasket. I think I used one of those on my MLT. Pack of 10 from HD was real cheap.
Geofferson
Member
So I've picked everything up to make this and I'm discovering some things. The fittings will only screw together half way. I've read this may be a feature of the threads being tapered. Which makes sense but threw me for a loop. Anyone else have this issue? Like half the threads still showing?
Second issue is with my kettle screen. I got a kettle screen that is a 3/8 fitting and is built really well and is awesome. Only problem is it is too long to properly fit in the cooler. I'm thinking I might be able to get it in and the screen will just have to bend a bit. Not sure yet.
Second issue is with my kettle screen. I got a kettle screen that is a 3/8 fitting and is built really well and is awesome. Only problem is it is too long to properly fit in the cooler. I'm thinking I might be able to get it in and the screen will just have to bend a bit. Not sure yet.
bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
Geofferson said:
Can't help you with the screen, but as far as the threads, they are pipe threads. They are tapered so they create a seal as they are tigntened, so its not really an issue but just the design of the threads.
LarryC
Well-Known Member
I haven't read every page in this thread so my apologies if I missed it. Has anyone added a thermometer to this build? I saw some pictures from The Pol but it really wasn't clear to me what he had done.
add a bushing on the outside thread of the cooler so the inside will seal up tight(like a 1/4'' long piece of pvc pipe or something making a sleeve or get a couple more washers)!!! as for the kettle screen i dont use that
i need to build another one this weekend because my last one became brittle and i barely bumped the bulkhead fitting and the effer cracked Editinside the cooler on the bullhead) and started leaking!!!I picked up four 5/8 stainless washers from Fastenal today to replace my zinc washers. They are a little under half as thick as the zinc versions. I had to use three stainless washers on the inside of the cooler and one stainless plus two zinc washers on the outside to get the same tight fit I had using only four total (one inside and three out) zinc washers.
I have the stainless washers inside the cooler whe it counts. I'll replace the outside washers with stainkess if they start corroding.
Just be aware that you may need more than four stainless washers if you order them from Fastenal.
I have the stainless washers inside the cooler whe it counts. I'll replace the outside washers with stainkess if they start corroding.
Just be aware that you may need more than four stainless washers if you order them from Fastenal.
Spookgolds
Well-Known Member
I got everything I needed from Lowes using the parts list at the beginning of this thread. The only thing I couldn't find was the washers. After much scouring online, I finally found them at fastenal. I bought the bag of 10 because i used 4 for this one, and if I ever have to do it again I won't have to run out looking for washers. I then put it all together and filled the cooler with water. Didn't leak a drop. I still have some more equipment to buy to convert to all grain, but I am getting really excited.
bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
Spookgolds said:
The only thing you really need is a 10 gallon pot with a valve and an extra ale pail.
Used my system for the first time today. I had it set up with the vinyl tubing inside of the braid. When I added the strike water and preheated my tun it was still a little hot so I stirred the water to help cool it before adding grain. When I stirred, the brass plug fell off of the end of the vinyl tube. I had already bought the stainless clamps, just in case. Glad I had them. I wound up clamping the brass plug and it worked with no problems. We'll see if I get any corrosion after a couple of uses.
Arkador
Well-Known Member
I have one of these in my attic. Loved it untill i upgraded to a keggle with an electric HERMS.
downtown3641
Well-Known Member
I just put mine together today. I used zip ties instead of hose clamps. It doesn't seem to be leaking at all. I checked the temperature twice about an hour apart. I lost one degree, but that was without preheating the tun or wrapping it with a blanket. It should work nicely. I can't wait to put it to use. I just have to decide what to brew. I'm thinking about breaking it in with a double IPA, but I may choose something a bit simpler so I don't blow as much money if I completely screw up.
I thought you were supposed to use the stainless steel braid and discard the plastic pvc tube???
downtown3641
Well-Known Member
wmarkw said:
He's probably using separate notched food-safe, heat resistant tubing.
bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
wmarkw said:
You're correct... the hose gets thrown away and the stainless casing is what gets used.
I cant for the life of me to get this thing tight. I have been at it for about an hour and have used vice grips. The ball valve does spin but I got the female barb about as flush as I can against the washer and now I'm hoping I didnt crack the plastic as I can feel a slight indention. I have tried to firm up my ball valve to the 3 washers on the outside but I'm having issues. So for those that have completed this, is it supposed to be tight i.e. no spinning at all or a little spin is good? frusssstrated! lol
Ok I found a little 5/8 funky washer that snugged up to the fender on the outside of the cooler and now I can hand tighten it and it doesnt turn as bad lol. go figure. although I mangeld up the female barb nut thing pretty good inside the cooler, not the nipple. That shouldnt matter right?? Ok time to finish it up. sheesh. oh and i took everything apart and i did not crack the inside of the cooler thankfully
Well of course i have a little drop leak and looking at the inside washer its not completely flush to the cooler. But that thing is a mother to tighten unless I'm doing something wrong. I did wrench tighten the ball valve to the washers on the outside but i still have some rotation but not nearly as bad as before. I'm done for the night and will take it apart and re-do it this week. Sorry for all the posts!
MikeG
Well-Known Member
Mine spins freely, no leakage in 3 years. Overtightened can cause a leak.
bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
wmarkw said:
That's what I was going to recommend you look at. On mine, one side of the stock gasket is larger diameter than the other. I faced that side (the larger one) against the wall of the cooler, with the gasket against the smaller side.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
Mine wouldn't work, I picked up a neoprene washer to replace it.
postalbunny
Well-Known Member
The valve is going to be able to spin. Your tightening the barp and ball valve to.the section of pipe that's just floating I.side the cooler's original rubber bushing. You can get it tight, but too tight and you may squeeze that rubber bushing.
I put an extra few orings on.each side and just tightened it snug, then checked for leaks. 2 batches later and no issues.
I put an extra few orings on.each side and just tightened it snug, then checked for leaks. 2 batches later and no issues.
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