Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[DrawTap88]

Besides what the others have already said, I will add that the hose clamp that holds the screen/bazooka tube on in the original directions have been replaced with a zip tie due to corrosion.

Another thing that some have done, including myself, is make or get a false bottom or manifold out of cooper tubing for their MLT.

 

[johnnybrew]

FYI regarding the elusive fender washers: I just picked up a SS washer that was the correct size. You can get them at Fastenal. I don't know, but bet Lowe's or HD might have SS washers too.

 

[krazydave]

Besides what the others have already said, I will add that the hose clamp that holds the screen/bazooka tube on in the original directions have been replaced with a zip tie due to corrosion.

Another thing that some have done, including myself, is make or get a false bottom or manifold out of cooper tubing for their MLT.

Ah, yeah I think I was starting to get to the point where people were having mixed luck with the SS hose clamps.

What I concluded though is that a false bottom is better for a fly sparge, yet the SS braid is better for a batch sparge... Sound correct?

Since I read that Bobby M somehow gets 90% efficiency using the batch sparge method, I figured I'd try out that route first. Bobby if you read this, I'd love to know exactly how you do your sparges to get that much efficiency.

 

[DrawTap88]

Krazydave, you are correct with your conclusions regarding batch and fly sparging. Although, I'm not Bobby M, I'd wager that he says the first thing to look at his high efficiency is his crush. I know when I was getting bad efficiency that was my major problem. Also, using the proper amounts of water helps too.

 

[johnnybrew]

...What I concluded though is that a false bottom is better for a fly sparge, yet the SS braid is better for a batch sparge... Sound correct?

I have a false bottom in my 10 gal cooler and have been getting 83 - 86% efficiencies.

 

[krazydave]

I have a false bottom in my 10 gal cooler and have been getting 83 - 86% efficiencies.

With a batch or fly sparge?

 

[johnnybrew]

With a batch or fly sparge?

That was a key piece of info that I left out. Sorry! All batch, all day baby!

 

[ejearn]

If you are having trouble finding a SS fender washer, send me a pm and I am more than happy to mail you one. I ended up having to buy in bulk from fastenal.

 

[DarkUncle]

First off, the only place I could get the 5/8" SS washers were in Home Depot. Look for a small orang plastic package called "Create-A-Bolt". iT INCLUDES 4 SS washers in there along with along with 4 lock washers and 4 nuts. It cost $3.77.

Next, I got this all together nice and tight with no leaks. My only concern is the flow rate. How fast should the water be flowing out of the valve? Would too slow or fast pose any issues?

Thanks

 

[DrawTap88]

I've gotten bad efficiency when draining fast, but I know there are some others that have done well draining fast. It's all going to come down to knowing your system. Give fast a shot and if it doesn't work then you'll know to give slow a shot for the next time.

 

[DarkUncle]

Well, to tell you the truth I didn't even think about flow rate determined by how much I open the valve. I was thinking more along the lines of flow rate determined by the system design itself with the valve all the way open.

I pulled out the vinyl tube from the inside of the SS braid, drilled a bunch of holes through it and inserted it back into the braid as many in this post have done. I was just concerned that I might not get the kind of flow rate I would have had if I left the vinyl core out of the braid.

Is a slower flow rate generally preferable anyway?

 

[DrawTap88]

Well, to tell you the truth I didn't even think about flow rate determined by how much I open the valve. I was thinking more along the lines of flow rate determined by the system design itself with the valve all the way open.

I pulled out the vinyl tube from the inside of the SS braid, drilled a bunch of holes through it and inserted it back into the braid as many in this post have done. I was just concerned that I might not get the kind of flow rate I would have had if I left the vinyl core out of the braid.

Is a slower flow rate generally preferable anyway?

Sorry for misunderstanding. I don't have experience with the braid with the tube inserted back in since I didn't put the tube back in. Just went with the braid.

I prefer a slower flow rate, but it all depends on your system so it's something you're going to have to figure out by using your set up.

 

[mrgreen4242]

Made this with a 5g Igloo brand cooler (I only brew 3g batches most of the time, and I can do 5g batches of session beers if I need/want to, so it works for me). Had to use lots of extra washers to get a tight seal so I am assuming the walls are thinner on my cooler than the 10gal Rubbermaid. Leaked during the first test, tightened it up some more and looks good so far on the second test. Whole thing ran me <$40.

I purchased a longer SS braided hose, however. 16 or 18", can't recall off the top of my head. It runs to the far side of the cooler and loops around, is this a problem? If it rests against the edge of cooler? I'll probably tie the end to middle of the braid to make a nice loop with only a bit of the far end up against the wall.

Thanks for the excellent guide! Going first all grain brew in ~5 days, woowoo!

 

[DrawTap88]

You should still be ok with the longer SS braid, mrgreen.

 

[mrgreen4242]

You should still be ok with the longer SS braid, mrgreen.

Thanks for the input! It seemed to drain water just fine but I wasn't sure if it would effect the formation of the grain bed. On further thought, the draining wort should just pull grain to wherever it needs to be to create a good filter bed.

 

[DrawTap88]

Thanks for the input! It seemed to drain water just fine but I wasn't sure if it would effect the formation of the grain bed. On further thought, the draining wort should just pull grain to wherever it needs to be to create a good filter bed.

That is exactley what it's going to do. It will pull more by the spigot, since that is the closest opening, but you'll still be ok.

 

[Ben_Persitz]

So how does the stainless steel braid work as a strainer? Does it already have slots cut into it or do I need to saw holes or drill holes?

I'm not handy at all but I want to build this.

 

[Eddiebosox]

So how does the stainless steel braid work as a strainer? Does it already have slots cut into it or do I need to saw holes or drill holes?

I'm not handy at all but I want to build this.

Its braided so once you take out the inner tubing the braid acts like a strainer with the wort slipping through the openings. Some have put in a plastic tube with holes inside the braid to keep it from collapsing under the weight of the wort, but I havent had trouble with it (granted I've not used it much so far)

 

[DrawTap88]

So how does the stainless steel braid work as a strainer? Does it already have slots cut into it or do I need to saw holes or drill holes?

I'm not handy at all but I want to build this.

The only thing that you need to do is plug up the end that isn't attached to the bulk head.

 

[Ben_Persitz]

Thanks guys! Really great advice. I'm going to build a 5 Gallon Mash Tun, and a Wort Chiller and start doing all grain. Right now I do partial mashes with a grain bag but I really want to control my wort a bit better and save money on my batches. 5 Lbs of DME for $21 is so expensive. 5 LBS of grain only costs like 10 bucks.

 

[klyph]

Eh, the amount of sugar you get out of 5 lbs of grain isn't equal to 5 lbs of extract.

 

[Ben_Persitz]

Eh, the amount of sugar you get out of 5 lbs of grain isn't equal to 5 lbs of extract.

True, but it also isn't half the amount.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

Nice guide thanks.
Anybody know where to get a replacement rubber seal for the cooler? I inherited a cooler without the fittings. Cheers.

 

[DrawTap88]

Nice guide thanks.
Anybody know where to get a replacement rubber seal for the cooler? I inherited a cooler without the fittings. Cheers.

An unconverted cooler? Whether or not it has the seal, there are ways around using it. One thing to do is up all the parts by a quarter inch, or better yet, get one of the bulk head thingys from Bargainfittings.com.

 

[tnbrewer371]

Looking at going ag. Thanks for the great post! Couple of questions...
1. Why does the cooler have to be 10 gallons if I am doing 5 gallon batches?
2. Why is everyone buying 2 of these (do I need a seperate mt and lt?)? Is it for rests? Why do you need rests?
3. What is a"hot liquor tank"? DO I need one? Why can't I just use my brew kettle?
4. How do I figure out the efficiency after brewing?
5. How do I figure out how much water to use with the grain, then how much with the batch sparge?
6. Do you still steep specialty grains or put then in with the base grain?
I saw an earlier post where a guy was using a 5g cooler and a similar homemade setup, put in 160 degree water held for an hour, then let it run into the brewpot. Then soak (sparge) the grain with 170, recycle that water a few times, then into the brewpot. What does the second cooler do? Thanks!!!

I think this calls for a new thread....nevermind

any chance anyone wants to tackle these questions??

 

[DrawTap88]

I'll do my best.

Originally Posted by Kayos
Looking at going ag. Thanks for the great post! Couple of questions...
1. Why does the cooler have to be 10 gallons if I am doing 5 gallon batches?

You can do a 5 gal batch in a 5 gal cooler of session beers (1.050 or lower). If you want to up the gravity (1.050 or higher) you need the extra capacity of a 10 gal cooler.

2. Why is everyone buying 2 of these (do I need a seperate mt and lt?)? Is it for rests? Why do you need rests?

The second one is for fly sparging. You don't technically need it to sparge. I don't have one, but I do have a 5 gal pot dedicated to heating my sparge water, which then gets poured four cups at a time through a collander that is resting on the grainbed.

3. What is a"hot liquor tank"? DO I need one? Why can't I just use my brew kettle?

The hot liquor tank ("HLT") is used to hold, and sometimes heat, your sparge water. Depending on your sparge method (no sparge, batch, or fly) you may or may not need one. With no sparge, you don't need one and can run off into your kettle, but for batch or fly sparging it is recommended that you have one. Also, you don't want to use your brew kettle since you will be running off the wort into it. You can use your kettle to heat the sparge water and then transfer it to a bucket to hold it for sparging.

4. How do I figure out the efficiency after brewing?

There's a formula for figuring out the total "points" (gravity) you should expect to get out of your total grain bill with 100% efficiency. You would then divide that with what you actually got. (i.e. expect 1.050 or "50 points" with 100% but actually got 1.040 or "40 points" would equal 80% efficiency.)

5. How do I figure out how much water to use with the grain, then how much with the batch sparge?

A general number is to use 2 quarts for every pound of grain (4 quarts in a gallon). So a beer with a 10 pound grain bill would take 5 gallons. (10 lbs X 2 quarts per pound [divided] by 4 quarts in a gallon). For figuring out your sparge water you need to take into account the amount of water absorbed by the grain and the amount lost in the deadspaces of your system (which you need to figure out by using your set up). It usually takes me 9 gallons of water total to make a 5 gallon beer which also takes into account the boil off and trub and hop losses in the kettle (7.5 gal pre boil volume).

6. Do you still steep specialty grains or put then in with the base grain?

Mash it with the rest of your grain bill from the beginning.

 

[tnbrewer371]

thanks that helps a bunch

 

[BendBrewer]

A general number is to use 2 quarts for every pound of grain (4 quarts in a gallon). So a beer with a 10 pound grain bill would take 5 gallons.

Great answers Draw but I would say that is on the high end of the scale. I use 1 qt to 1 pound for instance and the norm I think is closer to 1.25 qts. But whatever works for you.

 

[DrawTap88]

Great answers Draw but I would say that is on the high end of the scale. I use 1 qt to 1 pound for instance and the norm I think is closer to 1.25 qts. But whatever works for you.

Thank you. I used 2 quarts for the simplicity of doing the math.

Also, no doubt you can use anywhere between 1 to 2 quarts per gallon. I should've said that it depends on the mash style you plan on using for the brew. I can see 1 quart to 1.25 quart per gallon especially for a step mash, since that allows the brewer to adjust the temperature during the mash with hot water additions. I know there is another reason for using a thinner mash, but I forget what that reason is.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

An unconverted cooler? Whether or not it has the seal, there are ways around using it. One thing to do is up all the parts by a quarter inch, or better yet, get one of the bulk head thingys from Bargainfittings.com.

Cheers, done, should be getting it in the mail this week. Thanks.

 

[IPAAAA]

Anybody know what the max amount of grains and water can be fit into once of these? I want to start doing 10 gallon batches but wasn't sure if it would work.

 

[BendBrewer]

I don't know about the MAX but I do 10 gallon batches and have used as much as 24 pounds so far and don't feel that I have maxed it out. I do a 1qt/1 gallon mash and use 9-10 gallons for a batch/fly sparge.

 

[DrawTap88]

For my 10 gallon batches I usually use between 10 and 14 pounds of grain with 3 or 4 gallons of water. I have had 25 pounds of grain and about 5 gallons of water in it at once for a big beer and that brought my 10 gallon cooler right to the tip top.

 

[IPAAAA]

I don't know about the MAX but I do 10 gallon batches and have used as much as 24 pounds so far and don't feel that I have maxed it out. I do a 1qt/1 gallon mash and use 9-10 gallons for a batch/fly sparge.

That is good news.

For my 10 gallon batches I usually use between 10 and 14 pounds of grain with 3 or 4 gallons of water. I have had 25 pounds of grain and about 5 gallons of water in it at once for a big beer and that brought my 10 gallon cooler right to the tip top.

So 25 pounds plus 5 gallons of water? Cuz to just mash it would be 25 pounds and almost 8 gallons of water.

Guess I will be ok with doing a 10 gallon batch of a semi decent gravity beer.

 

[BendBrewer]

25 pounds of grain should get you up past 1.060 or so.

Cuz to just mash it would be 25 pounds and almost 8 gallons of water.

Just use 1 qt per pound to mash. Where you'll run into filling up is during the sparge.

I use a little over 9 gallons to sparge and with 22 pounds of WET grain I can get about 5-5.5 gallons of sparge water into the MLT. I stir that and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I vorlough and as the MLT drains into the kettle I let the remaining sparge water flow into the MLT at the same rate as I drain it, SLOWLY. At this point I grab a beer and wait for the MLT to drain and the kettle to fill.

 

[IPAAAA]

25 pounds of grain should get you up past 1.060 or so.



Just use 1 qt per pound to mash. Where you'll run into filling up is during the sparge.

I use a little over 9 gallons to sparge and with 22 pounds of WET grain I can get about 5-5.5 gallons of sparge water into the MLT. I stir that and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I vorlough and as the MLT drains into the kettle I let the remaining sparge water flow into the MLT at the same rate as I drain it, SLOWLY. At this point I grab a beer and wait for the MLT to drain and the kettle to fill.

So you basically have to sparge with two sets of 5 gallons of water?

I have always used 1.25 to mash with but it isn't that much more water. I just don't want to go mash a beer and then find out I don't have enough room to fit it all in my mlt.

Btw...how much higher is the temp of the water when you pour it into 20+ pounds of grains? I am usually at about 8 degrees higher for my 5 gallon batch so I'm guessing it will need to be a little higher because of more grains used for a 10 gallon batch.

 

[BendBrewer]

I preheat my MLT with HOT HOT tap water and go 17 degrees over target temp.

So you basically have to sparge with two sets of 5 gallons of water?

Kind of. I heat up a little over 9 gallons and add as much as I can, stir and let it sit. This is the Batch sparge. As it drains I simply add the rest of the water at the same rate that I drain the MLT until the MLT is completely drained. It's kind of a batch/fly hybrid sparge.

 

[IPAAAA]

I preheat my MLT with HOT HOT tap water and go 17 degrees over target temp.



Kind of. I heat up a little over 9 gallons and add as much as I can, stir and let it sit. This is the Batch sparge. As it drains I simply add the rest of the water at the same rate that I drain the MLT until the MLT is completely drained. It's kind of a batch/fly hybrid sparge.

Gotcha. I really don't want to have to do it that way. Guessing there is no alternative other then a bigger MLT?

 

[MikeG]

Anybody know what the max amount of grains and water can be fit into once of these? I want to start doing 10 gallon batches but wasn't sure if it would work.

I do 10 gal batches in mine. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/

 

[DrawTap88]

Sorry I missed so much. I had a really thin mash when I filled mine up. I also left out that it was my mash out water that got me to the brim of the cooler. Sorry for that.

Also, to address something that wasn't pointed towards me...When I mashed all that grain I brought most of my grain to temp in a pot over a burner from 130 to 157, which when added to the cooler I only lost about 2 degrees and it didn't lost more than 1/2 a degree over the 90 minute mash (it was really warm that day).