Cf5 vs 7 gallon unitank not spike vs ss bashing!

[Ontop27]

Someone push me over the edge! I dont want this to be a ss vs spike debate. For my reasons below what would you pick. (Price not a factor as when specked the same they cost the same) i would be cold crashing, kegging and bottling from it, not harvesting yeast, at the moment i have no interest in spunding, non standard spike seals do not change performance so i am not bothered one way or another. I would also get leg extensions, shelfs, and wheels for both.

Points for spike
1) my lhbs carries spike products
2) quality control issues for ss brewtech myself included with a faulty rims
3) the larger opening for cleaning the tank with the band clamp
4) carb stone doesnt have to be always connected.
5) larger 2 inch dump valve
6) the ss butterfly valves have very very tight clearances to the legs
7) no handles on the ss unitank
8) in my opinion easier to clean blow off cane since there is a top mounted tri clamp, ss first feeds into a 90 then a tri clamp. Not a huge issue but in my head this is a positive incase gunk gets into the 90.


Points for ss
1) i have all ss products
2) i like there heating / cooling system way better ( more polished compared to ink bird)
3) no band clamp (better sealing vs easier cleaning)
4) with their 6" port and chilling system i can still use a 3" tri clamp fitting at the same time. With spikes cooling system you can not. This is a big one for me. In my head cip would be much better as it is centered vs spikes offset, and for dry hopping ease.
5) 1 more tri clamp ports on the wet side. Not sure if it matters but it is a factor.
6) i really wish spikes cooling system went into a 90. I hate that they go straight up and do not like their plastic 90 solution.

If i didnt see all the issues with ss quality i would have picked them right away most likely. Yes they generally make good on it, but i dont have time to be dealing with that. So the ease of just picking up spike at my lhbs gains mega points.

 

[CodeSection]

I own a Spike CF10 and a SSB 20 gallon Brite Tank BME. I am happy with both, though when I unpacked, cleaned and assembled the bright tank, I could tell with a number of items it wasn't the higher quality that I have with Spike's CF10. If Spike made a true bright tank, I would have gone with them.

Your choice really depends upon what features you feel are important to you and what perceived options you may have in the future. Some of the items you mention as negatives with Spike, I find are strengths to me. A few of those items are:

1) CF10's large band clamp lid. I have had no issues with it sealing and I actually prefer it. Maybe because I have had DE pool filters for well over 30 years that use the same type of clamp. In those years I never had a clamp fail or leak....never. The large lid and opening makes cleaning a breeze. Which leads me to the next item.

2) I bought a CIP Ball and never have used it. IMO, it is totally unnecessary. Especially, by the time you take the CF10 and setup the CIP ball with a hose, check connections, etc., you could already be finished rinsing the CF10 clean with just a hose.

3) I like Spike's cooling tubing that goes straight up out of the lid as compared with SSB 90 degree tubing. Personally, I like Spike's plastic 90 degree quick connect fittings. I bought Spike's straight quick connect fittings to use with the SSB Brite Tank. The quick disconnects are so easy to use and seal great!

4) Spike's butterfly valves are superior...they just are. SSB's butterfly valves feel soft and I never feel the positive click when I close them as I do with Spike's. I'm always double checking SSB valves.

5) My CF10 sits on a counter so I do not have extended legs. For those that have extended legs, Spike introduced an extended bracing shelf that is far superior and creates better stability than their old style bracing plate and better than SSB's bracing plate.

6) When I bought the SSB Brite Tank, I did not buy their temperature controller nor their tubing. Instead, I bought Spike's insulated tubing. I love Inkbird's WIFI 308 controller that I use on the CF10! Wow! It is so convenient that now I do not have to race home to change fermentation temps. I use Spike's Inkbird controller on the bright tank as I am keeping the temp constant as I am carbing in the bright tank.

7) Some prefer the SSB's carbing stone setup over Spike's since the carb stone is in direct contact with the beer inside the unit. Whereas Spike's carb stone is not.

8) Some people laugh at Spike's 2" dump valve. Personally, I like it.

9) Perhaps I am mistaken, but I thought the 3" TC inside the 6" cooling lid was for the PRV. I like Spike's setup with their gas manifold bundle. I wished that design was in the SSB Brite Tank.

10) If you want a slick, easy to use process for dry hopping, consider Norcal's Yeast Brink. I have their 3" sight glass and use it to dry hop by injecting the hops through the 2" dump port and I use it to inject spices through the 1.5" racking port. https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-x-3-Inch-Sight-Glass-Yeast-Brink.html. If you use it for injecting through the racking port, you will need the 2" x 1.5" reducer https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-to-1.5-Inch-Reducer.html along with a 45 degree elbow https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Elbow_45_Degree_1.5_Inch.html

Good luck with your decision!

 

[Ontop27]

Yes! This is what im looking for! Do the quick connects allow liquid to come out? I have like this connection from ss brewtech and love it. (Yes i could still use it but then i would still have to connect to a 90 or go straight up)

Yes on the prv in the lid for ss. I just like that option of putting something else there if wanted (probably would but who knows)

 

[Ontop27]

Here is my current setup btw.. i cant wait to finish my basement to make it more pleasing to the eye!

 

[matt_m]

I'll start by saying I have SS Chronicals and a Spike kettle and I'm happy with both companies.

There's really no functional difference on the heating and cooling system. SS is just sticking a simple on-off 12v controller in a fancy box and switching a 12v pump and 12v heat pad. Inkbird even sells the same controller sans box. However in my mind the advantage goes to Spike. The Spike heating pad is direct 110v so if the controller goes bad with the Spike you can just get another Inkbird in 24 hours or so from Amazon, plug it in, and go. Or you can go out and buy the Inkbird Wifi edition and have remote control for $50 or less if you can get one on sale. You could then use IFTTT and Google Calendar to build temperature profiles. And a strike against SS's 12v pad that isn't really their fault, but I bought fermenters used and was missing a power supply. I bought 2 different ones on Amazon that supposedly had more than enough amperage and both burned out in an hour. Luckily about that time the seller found the missing one and shipped it to me. If you ever burn one out plan on sourcing it from SS.

I got my quick connects from US Plastics.
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37291&trk_msg=8IUSC18OD90KPBT8CSAJOIQSJG&trk_contact=S0MJPVRL7QRETGUS9LPPF9VC4C&trk_module=tra&trk_sid=CSHIUTB6SFBLHRE4JEBFO0RKJC&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37291&utm_campaign=transactionals&utm_content=orderconfirmation

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37301&trk_msg=8IUSC18OD90KPBT8CSAJOIQSJG&trk_contact=S0MJPVRL7QRETGUS9LPPF9VC4C&trk_module=tra&trk_sid=CSHIUTB6SFBLHRE4JEBFO0RKJC&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37301&utm_campaign=transactionals&utm_content=orderconfirmation

Two tips on those--install the male of one set toward the fermenter and the female of the other set. That way your glycol will always flow the same way (preferably in the bottom, out the top.) Second tip, make up an adapter with one of these connectors to 1/4" MFL so you can use a burst of CO2 to blow the glycol from the coil back to the chiller. When you heat it during a CIP it wants to expand but will be trapped by the quick connects. I darn near blew apart the short pieces of hose between the coil and the quick connect!

 

[NeoBrew]

I have the SS 7 Gal Unitank. I don't own any Spike products. I love my SS and have no regrets about buying it.

I decided I was going to buy a conical during the time Spike had announced the 7 gallon model, but it took a year of false dates, pushing things off and then silence as they worked out their production chain. After several months of that I lost confidence in them and decided to pull the trigger on SS. It's been working great for me for about 2+ years now.

 

[rmchair]

Just a note. I wish my dump valves were smaller. But I use med floc yeast.

 

[CodeSection]

@Ontop27, the 90 degree quick disconnects from Spike are flow through with NO shut off. With that said, I never had any glycol/water solution leak when disconnecting the lines from them. On the other hand, I have been meaning to buy the QDs that @matt_m posted links to for the bright tank since I cannot use Spike's 90 degree QDs on it. From what I understand the SSB QDs you have may have a 3/8" barb on them, but the diameter inside them is only 1/4" whereas the ones @matt_m suggested have a true 3/8" ID.

Another comparison I thought of between Spike and SSB, is SSB's cooling coil feels flimsy. If you tap it, it slightly vibrates (sorta like a tuning-fork). I suspect this is caused by the smaller tubing ID along with the larger diameter of the coil.

Spike's coiling coil is solid and strong with no vibration. It's ID is larger and the coil diameter is smaller. I would think the larger ID coil carrying more glycol/water solution would be more efficient and faster in lowering temps.

 

[Brooothru]

I own a Spike CF10 and a SSB 20 gallon Brite Tank BME. I am happy with both, though when I unpacked, cleaned and assembled the bright tank, I could tell with a number of items it wasn't the higher quality that I have with Spike's CF10. If Spike made a true bright tank, I would have gone with them.

Your choice really depends upon what features you feel are important to you and what perceived options you may have in the future. Some of the items you mention as negatives with Spike, I find are strengths to me. A few of those items are:

1) CF10's large band clamp lid. I have had no issues with it sealing and I actually prefer it. Maybe because I have had DE pool filters for well over 30 years that use the same type of clamp. In those years I never had a clamp fail or leak....never. The large lid and opening makes cleaning a breeze. Which leads me to the next item.

2) I bought a CIP Ball and never have used it. IMO, it is totally unnecessary. Especially, by the time you take the CF10 and setup the CIP ball with a hose, check connections, etc., you could already be finished rinsing the CF10 clean with just a hose.

3) I like Spike's cooling tubing that goes straight up out of the lid as compared with SSB 90 degree tubing. Personally, I like Spike's plastic 90 degree quick connect fittings. I bought Spike's straight quick connect fittings to use with the SSB Brite Tank. The quick disconnects are so easy to use and seal great!

4) Spike's butterfly valves are superior...they just are. SSB's butterfly valves feel soft and I never feel the positive click when I close them as I do with Spike's. I'm always double checking SSB valves.

5) My CF10 sits on a counter so I do not have extended legs. For those that have extended legs, Spike introduced an extended bracing shelf that is far superior and creates better stability than their old style bracing plate and better than SSB's bracing plate.

6) When I bought the SSB Brite Tank, I did not buy their temperature controller nor their tubing. Instead, I bought Spike's insulated tubing. I love Inkbird's WIFI 308 controller that I use on the CF10! Wow! It is so convenient that now I do not have to race home to change fermentation temps. I use Spike's Inkbird controller on the bright tank as I am keeping the temp constant as I am carbing in the bright tank.

7) Some prefer the SSB's carbing stone setup over Spike's since the carb stone is in direct contact with the beer inside the unit. Whereas Spike's carb stone is not.

8) Some people laugh at Spike's 2" dump valve. Personally, I like it.

9) Perhaps I am mistaken, but I thought the 3" TC inside the 6" cooling lid was for the PRV. I like Spike's setup with their gas manifold bundle. I wished that design was in the SSB Brite Tank.

10) If you want a slick, easy to use process for dry hopping, consider Norcal's Yeast Brink. I have their 3" sight glass and use it to dry hop by injecting the hops through the 2" dump port and I use it to inject spices through the 1.5" racking port. https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-x-3-Inch-Sight-Glass-Yeast-Brink.html. If you use it for injecting through the racking port, you will need the 2" x 1.5" reducer https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-to-1.5-Inch-Reducer.html along with a 45 degree elbow https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Elbow_45_Degree_1.5_Inch.html

Good luck with your decision!


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Great objective comparison. For the record I have all SsB Tech gear and am quite satisfied. Readily acknowledge Spike makes great products, and both manufacturers are comparatively priced.

Each have strengths and weaknesses. I personally don't like Spike's full gasketed lid on a pressurized tank. While it allows for ease of cleaning, the surface area is subjected to greater stress on the seal. An 8" TC welded to the top is structurally more robust. I've read the comments about SsBT's QC issues and have seen some in my gear, but they are minor and cosmetic in nature, and I probably wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't been hyper about inspecting for them. I've had no issues with the butterfly valves, and have two Brewer's Hardware valves to compare them with. Ford/Chevy. Both are smooth and reliable.

At the end of the day it's really just a Ford/Chevy comparison (OK, maybe a Volvo/Audi one). And I must admit that 2" bottom dump is a nice feature. Also, double thumbs up on the Jaybird yeast brink. One of the best add-ons available to any system.

Brooo Brother

 

[Brooothru]

Yes! This is what im looking for! Do the quick connects allow liquid to come out? I have like this connection from ss brewtech and love it. (Yes i could still use it but then i would still have to connect to a 90 or go straight up)

Yes on the prv in the lid for ss. I just like that option of putting something else there if wanted (probably would but who knows)View attachment 667692

I got some connectors like this from the company that makes them for SsBT. I'll try to find the link. U.S. Plastics, I think.

Brooo Brother

 

[Brooothru]

... tips on those--install the male of one set toward the fermenter and the female of the other set. That way your glycol will always flow the same way (preferably in the bottom, out the top.)

Actually Spike recommends swapping the input and return lines when cooling (crashing) at temperatures below 40F. It's in one of their FAQs online and actually works quite well. It does require an extra set of disconnects and some additional 3/8" tubing to make a jumper line. Either that or you'll have to disconnect and swap your lines at either the chiller or your fermenter. I did notice more efficient cooling when I crashed to 30F though still got frost and condensation at the uninsulated fittings on the tank and glycol chiller.

Brooo Brother

 

[matt_m]

Interesting. I still would have assumed bringing the coldest liquid in at the bottom where its pretty much guaranteed to contact the beer would have been better but its been a long, long time since I took Thermodynamics.

 

[Brooothru]

Interesting. I still would have assumed bringing the coldest liquid in at the bottom where its pretty much guaranteed to contact the beer would have been better but its been a long, long time since I took Thermodynamics.

They say above 40F to input from the top of the fermenter coil to make use of the downward convection currents. Near 40F they (whoever "they" is) have observed that an inversion occurs that makes it more efficient to chill from the bottom up rather than top down. I have no way of measuring a stratification or inversion that shuts off or reverses convective currents. But anecdotally it did appear that the elapsed time from 40F to 30F was shorter, and the chiller compressor didn't struggle as hard to maintain it, as compared with two similar previous fermentations I had done.

I can't explain it, and I'll bet it's been a longer time than you (50+ years) since I studied thermodynamics! Check out the FAQs on Spike's website. No data, but interesting opinion.

Brooo Brother

 

[matt_m]

I can't explain it, and I'll bet it's been a longer time than you (50+ years) since I studied thermodynamics! Check out the FAQs on Spike's website. No data, but interesting opinion.

Yeah, you got me beat by 25+ years lol.

 

[Brooothru]

Here'e the link to the Spike FAQ:

TC-100 Bundle | Spike Brewinghttps://spikebrewing.com › products › tc-100-bundle

Click on the blue highlighted .PDF guide towards the bottom of the page.

 

[Ontop27]

I went to my lhbs... how is the band clamp not an issue. If it wasnt for that i would have pulled the trigger. Grrr hate making big decisions lol

 

[CodeSection]

I went to my lhbs... how is the band clamp not an issue. If it wasnt for that i would have pulled the trigger. Grrr hate making big decisions lol

It sounds like you are not familiar with the clamp design. It has been used for decades (over 50 years) with swimming pools using Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Pool Filters. It is proven and is a very good design. These filters typically have 25-35 PSI and at times go up to 50 PSI. With nearly 11 million pools in the US, millions of pools are using this clamp design on their pool filter.

I guess if someone doesn't install the gasket correctly (up-side-down or not in the grove) or doesn't tighten the clamp fully there could be a leak. While I am very familiar with this design, and while I really like the ease it allows for cleaning my CF10, it is probably not the best design for you.

Life is too short and both manufacturers have advantages and disadvantages. The clamp design is an advantage, not a disadvantage. However, your perception is your reality. Therefore, my recommendation is to buy the SSB since you believe the clamp and gasket to be an issue on the Spike.

It sounds like you made a decision. Congratulations!

 

[Ontop27]

Im trying to talk myself into spike and i think i did based on everyones comments. Thanks all haha! Happy brewing

 

[Jag75]

Im trying to talk myself into spike and i think i did based on everyones comments. Thanks all haha! Happy brewing

You will be very happy with it . I love the cf5 . Clamp hasnt been an issue at all. I'd like to have another one to add to my collection lol.

 

[Thorrak]

I got some connectors like this from the company that makes them for SsBT. I'll try to find the link. U.S. Plastics, I think.

Brooo Brother

The disconnects are made by Colder Products Corp: https://www.cpcworldwide.com/

I use their disconnects for my gas lines, and absolutely love them. I hadn't thought about them for Glycol, but certainly am now...

 

[Yesfan]

Im trying to talk myself into spike and i think i did based on everyones comments. Thanks all haha! Happy brewing

Like the other Spike owners, I'm impressed with my CF10 and Flex+. I've only put one batch in each of them, but I have no regrets on them.

I was looking long and hard at the 14 gallon Chronical BME and some things I didn't like about it over the Spike:

1) the chilling coil mounts in from the side of the body instead of the lid. It also uses weldless fittings.
2) No ability of pressurized fermentations.
3) lid is not removable for easy cleaning.
4) sample valve looks cheap and it also, along with the digital thermo, uses weldless fittings.

I like the Chronical BME, but it just wasn't looking like that's what I wanted. The Unitank was more of what I was wanting, but much more expensive. It's $1200. My CF10 and added accessories is under $850 (legs, bracing, and casters). It has welded ports, a removable top for easier cleaning, the chilling coil is a add on 4" TC, and I can do pressurized fermentations. Pretty much a no brainer and no regrets.

That SS Unitank is sexy though.

 

[Ontop27]

I own a Spike CF10 and a SSB 20 gallon Brite Tank BME. I am happy with both, though when I unpacked, cleaned and assembled the bright tank, I could tell with a number of items it wasn't the higher quality that I have with Spike's CF10. If Spike made a true bright tank, I would have gone with them.

Your choice really depends upon what features you feel are important to you and what perceived options you may have in the future. Some of the items you mention as negatives with Spike, I find are strengths to me. A few of those items are:

1) CF10's large band clamp lid. I have had no issues with it sealing and I actually prefer it. Maybe because I have had DE pool filters for well over 30 years that use the same type of clamp. In those years I never had a clamp fail or leak....never. The large lid and opening makes cleaning a breeze. Which leads me to the next item.

2) I bought a CIP Ball and never have used it. IMO, it is totally unnecessary. Especially, by the time you take the CF10 and setup the CIP ball with a hose, check connections, etc., you could already be finished rinsing the CF10 clean with just a hose.

3) I like Spike's cooling tubing that goes straight up out of the lid as compared with SSB 90 degree tubing. Personally, I like Spike's plastic 90 degree quick connect fittings. I bought Spike's straight quick connect fittings to use with the SSB Brite Tank. The quick disconnects are so easy to use and seal great!

4) Spike's butterfly valves are superior...they just are. SSB's butterfly valves feel soft and I never feel the positive click when I close them as I do with Spike's. I'm always double checking SSB valves.

5) My CF10 sits on a counter so I do not have extended legs. For those that have extended legs, Spike introduced an extended bracing shelf that is far superior and creates better stability than their old style bracing plate and better than SSB's bracing plate.

6) When I bought the SSB Brite Tank, I did not buy their temperature controller nor their tubing. Instead, I bought Spike's insulated tubing. I love Inkbird's WIFI 308 controller that I use on the CF10! Wow! It is so convenient that now I do not have to race home to change fermentation temps. I use Spike's Inkbird controller on the bright tank as I am keeping the temp constant as I am carbing in the bright tank.

7) Some prefer the SSB's carbing stone setup over Spike's since the carb stone is in direct contact with the beer inside the unit. Whereas Spike's carb stone is not.

8) Some people laugh at Spike's 2" dump valve. Personally, I like it.

9) Perhaps I am mistaken, but I thought the 3" TC inside the 6" cooling lid was for the PRV. I like Spike's setup with their gas manifold bundle. I wished that design was in the SSB Brite Tank.

10) If you want a slick, easy to use process for dry hopping, consider Norcal's Yeast Brink. I have their 3" sight glass and use it to dry hop by injecting the hops through the 2" dump port and I use it to inject spices through the 1.5" racking port. https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-x-3-Inch-Sight-Glass-Yeast-Brink.html. If you use it for injecting through the racking port, you will need the 2" x 1.5" reducer https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-to-1.5-Inch-Reducer.html along with a 45 degree elbow https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Elbow_45_Degree_1.5_Inch.html

Good luck with your decision!


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Looking at your picture how so you use it on the racking port? Another 90 as well to make it straight? Which see any harm in going unitank, butterfly valve, yeast brink? As in just straight down (i would most likely need the extensions which i would get regardless)

 

[CodeSection]

Looking at your picture how so you use it on the racking port? Another 90 as well to make it straight? Which see any harm in going unitank, butterfly valve, yeast brink? As in just straight down (i would most likely need the extensions which i would get regardless)

Since the racking port/valve is already at an angle, all you need is a 1.5" TC 45 degree elbow https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Elbow_45_Degree_1.5_Inch.html to attach to the valve and then to the yeast brink. Depending upon the size of yeast brink one buys (2", 3" and 4") there may be a need for a 2" to 1.5" reducer https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-to-1.5-Inch-Reducer.html

You would NOT use a 90 degree elbow on the racking port/valve.

My picture shows my CF10 on a bar. Therefore, my dry hopping setup is unitank, 2" TC 90 degree elbow, valve, another 90 degree elbow, and then yeast brink (it hangs over the bar's edge).

If you buy the extended legs, then your set up will work perfectly (Unitank, valve, yeast brink). You will not need a 2" TC 90 degree elbow.

If you do not buy the extended legs, then that setup would not work and you would use a setup similar to mine and then you would need a 2" TC 90 degree elbow.

 

[Ontop27]

Whoops it was late meant dump valve. But i get what you are saying . Ty!