Carving up a keg

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Philip1993

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Messages
1,644
Reaction score
19
My LHBS sells kegs with the whole top cut off (no handles, like a drinking glass). He swears that people who buy them like them much better that a traditional top cut out since there are no cracks to clean, etc. Any thoughts on that vs. the traditional circle cut? It certainly would seem much easier to do.
 
I don't think it's easier to do. There is more material to cut and it's more difficult to cut a cylinder in a level line.
It reduces the rigidity of the keg and removes the convenient handles.
I can think of now good reason why it is better.

Just look at the majority of kegs where people have had the free choice.
 
I think it's a line of bull.

Handles are awesome.
It's not any harder to do.

It just has to be clean BTW not sanitized. It's only post boil that needs sanitation.
 
I have one like that. It is fine, but the handles would really be nice. I can't imagine that cleaning one with handles would be any harder, honestly.

About the only (small) advantage I can see is that if you cut the handles off, it makes the keg a little shorter and the opening a little wider, so your boil-off rate would be a bit greater. If you brew a lot of higher gravity brews, this might cut down your boil time a bit.
 
The only benefit I see is for peeps who were slitting the tops for hop stoppers. You could even bolt/weld on a couple handles pretty easy if you wanted to. I do think it is easier to cut off the top than to try to cut out that circle.
 
orfy said:
Never believe a sales man.

True. But we weren't discussing buy one, but rather carving up one I have already. I asked him why he cut his (personal) off and he said that he had done it to a few and everyone else that bought one preferred it to a top circle. So, he stuck with it.

Easier cutting: That was my thought. Mark a circle around the body and cut w/o that handle cramping your work space.

Cleaning: He was referring to boil over and other crud settling in the handle/top valley.

Handle: My biggest concern is not the loss of the carrying hole, but the loss of rigidity in the top opening of the keggle. Seems like it would be super easy to damage in storage w/o a rim.

I was actually considering a best of both design. Cut the circle at tight as possible and then grind flush with the body. Viola! Handles, a big hole, no valleys, and no sharp edges. If I don't go that route, I'll probably just get a sledge and bash the top until it rips open a big hole. That way, I can have a super cool keggle like BierMuncher!
 
Oh, yeah, you mean the full 15" diameter one-piece false bottoms. I can imagine hacking the top skirt off on an HLT on a 3-tier system. No chance of boilovers, no need for handles, and that reduced height would be welcomed.

I'm going with a tippy dump on my keg MLT and I'm thinking of removing a large portion of the top skirt to keep spent grains from getting caught up but I plan on leaving it up to the handles.

These kegs are 15.5 gallons up to the neck. If you take it down to the skirt, you're probably closer to 13 gallons. I can see it being a little easier cutting on the side with an angle grinder because you're not cutting a circle, but not by much.
 
With respect to boilover, the shelf and handle area contain it pretty well. The boiloff drains off 2 very small holes, which I find preferable to it gushing over all at once.

By cutting off the handles, you have to figure that you're cutting a great deal more material, perhaps 2x as much. (I'm no mathlete).
 
Bobby_M said:
Another con, can't use any pre-existing pot lids.
I guess if you didn't make too much of a mess of the cutting, you could salvage the top for a lid , for whatever reason...
 
Cheesefood said:
Could it be that he cuts off that top rung because that's often the area stamped with the logo?
Ding! Pass go, collect $200.

That's the first thing I thought of. A business owner can't risk selling keggles with a brewery name stamped on them.
 
pldoolittle said:
Handle: My biggest concern is not the loss of the carrying hole, but the loss of rigidity in the top opening of the keggle. Seems like it would be super easy to damage in storage w/o a rim.
Mine has the top skirt cut off, and it is VERY rigid even with out it. In fact, mine was slightly mis-shapen (not quite round), and being the obsessive type, I tried to bend it back to a circular shape -- not a hope in hell. SS is tough material. No worries about damage there.

Bobby_M said:
These kegs are 15.5 gallons up to the neck. If you take it down to the skirt, you're probably closer to 13 gallons. I can see it being a little easier cutting on the side with an angle grinder because you're not cutting a circle, but not by much.
I can get 13 gals in no problem, and a bit of room to spare. I am guessing it holds 14 gals or a bit more.

mr x said:
Bobby_M said:
Another con, can't use any pre-existing pot lids
I guess if you didn't make too much of a mess of the cutting, you could salvage the top for a lid , for whatever reason...
I just use a big, flat cookie sheet. Works perfectly, and I can easily adjust how much of an opening there is to let out steam. (Yes, I know, don't boil your wort with it on -- I don't. :) )
 
olllllo said:
With respect to boilover, the shelf and handle area contain it pretty well. The boiloff drains off 2 very small holes, which I find preferable to it gushing over all at once.

Like this. Makes ignoring the mess much easier. You'll also notice the stamp on the bottom:

Keggle_4.JPG
 
Oh come on. The top is where the serial numbers are. He steals the kegs and cuts the serial numbers off to get rid of the evidence so the breweries can't catch him! :p
 
I cut my Sanke keg years ago before internet forums and instructional videos on keggle production. I cut off around the rim below the weld, but left one handle intact for, well, a handle. I use an old black enamel canning boiler lid for the lid. My next one will be cut in the standard method leaving the top rim and both handles in place. Why? Having two handles will be nice. Having a little more volume will be nice. Having a rim to guide the foam back to the center will be nice. Being able to completely cover it will be nice.

No problems with mechanical ruggedness; I've used this one for 10 plus years, no dents or dings.
 
For those folks that can weld cut the keg at the top weld and use 1/2" ss tubing to make a rim. Save the tube from the spear and make two handles with 1/2" SS bolts and washers.
 
Back
Top