Cannot overcome my Hazy IPA oxidation problem!!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I wish I had seen this thread before brewing my first NEIPA with Vermont. I could have saved myself a lot of heartache and wasted money.

Left is a week after bottling low 20's ambient. Right is a week after bottling on a heat pad to speed up carbonation. Same beer. The whole lot is now in the fridge regardless of whether it's carbed or not.

I have another beer in primary now using the same yeast, which I harvested. It's Mangrove Jacks Robbers Gold, which I added some extra DME to and did a hopstand with 50g Mosaic.

I was planning to dry hop in secondary with 50g Mosaic and 50g Cascade, but I might just accept the fruitiness of the yeast (which I like) and not risk the oxidisation from adding the dry hops. What are peoples thoughts? I also wonder how much yeast I could get out by cold crashing and fining with silicon dioxide, and if I would be safe to dry hop the secondary if the beer was fully cleared.

confirmation
IMG_20180408_174844.jpg
 
I wish I had seen this thread before brewing my first NEIPA with Vermont. I could have saved myself a lot of heartache and wasted money.

Left is a week after bottling low 20's ambient. Right is a week after bottling on a heat pad to speed up carbonation. Same beer. The whole lot is now in the fridge regardless of whether it's carbed or not.

I have another beer in primary now using the same yeast, which I harvested. It's Mangrove Jacks Robbers Gold, which I added some extra DME to and did a hopstand with 50g Mosaic.

I was planning to dry hop in secondary with 50g Mosaic and 50g Cascade, but I might just accept the fruitiness of the yeast (which I like) and not risk the oxidisation from adding the dry hops. What are peoples thoughts? I also wonder how much yeast I could get out by cold crashing and fining with silicon dioxide, and if I would be safe to dry hop the secondary if the beer was fully cleared.

confirmation
View attachment 565508
Fining to reduce the amount of yeast in suspension prior to dry hopping will do nothing to protect from oxidation. Active yeast (during the carbonation process) actually reduces the amount of oxygen in the beer, and helps protect from oxidation.

Also racking to secondary is going to increase the amount of oxygen in the beer, unless you have extreme O2 exclusion practices for your racking process.

Brew on :mug:
 
My two NEIPA batches to date have ended up relatively similar: hazy and orange after dry-hopping and straining to keg where they stayed that way and poured that way for ~7-10 days. After that a noticeable darkening approaching what I would consider to be closer in color to a pale ale like Sierra Nevada. Never really approaching "chicken stock" color but certainly had clarified under carbonation and aging with what I would assume would be less particulate in suspension Still tasted great but never as nice as those first week of pours..... But never anything approaching dark like the second photo you posted.
 
Here is an interesting tip to prevent the bottle oxidation causing the browning. Use plastic bottles and first fill with normal head room, then squeeze so beer comes to top and put cap on, then as carbonates the CO2 will fill the head room. Found here:
Haven't tried with NEIPA yet.

Carbing to a desired volume is hard though. You'll need more sugar, but how much...?
 
This thread and lowoxygenbrewing have led to me starting kegging. I now purge my legs with the fermenter output and pressure transfer. Will dry hop towards the end of fermentation in the fermenter then again in the keg with priming sugar. We'll let you know how it goes.
IMG_20180521_193656.jpg
IMG_20180521_193630.jpg
 
Back
Top