Burner Basics

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WrongCoastBrewery

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After seeing many people, both novice and advanced, have many debates about what is better and which burner to buy, I figured I would put some myths about burners to rest. Plus, I wanted to make a convienient place to find out about many of the burners in use out there. So here it goes:

BTUs - The Beginning

BTU, or British Themal Unit, is a unit of measure of power, or heat input in the US. When done so, the actual unit is BTU/h. Another way you could see BTU used is the measure of a heat value for fuel. Typically though, in homebrewing and burners, you will see it used more for heat input. Remember this as it comes into play later.

So what is a BTU? Well, the scientific definition is the amount of energy required to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree at constant atmospheric pressure. Another way you could compare this is by striking and burning one wooden match. That would be the approximate equivalent.

Burners & Brewers

Ok, so enough of the scientific mumbo jumbo. How does this tie into homebrewing? Well, all of us want to make better beer right? And one way is to do full boils. Another is AG. Besides Deathbrewer's Stove Top All Grain method, burners are the way to do it, especially since larger quantities of water are needed to be heated to specific temperatures. A good propane burner can hit temperature marks with no problem and then keep them there with minimal adjustments. Personally, my electric stove had a hard time even maintaining 155F without major adjustments to the heat. And a boil larger than 2.5 gallons? Dont even think about it. The most I ever did was 3 gallons and that took over an hour.

So burners are a great tool in the brewing process and IMHO one of the most valuable. Mine personally lowered my brew time by up to an hour. I tested mine as well and it took 15 minutes to boil 5 gallons of water in a stainless steel pot. But, this wouldnt be an objective article without knowing the both the pros and cons.

Pros
Better Hop Utilization, Easier steeping times, Easy to hit and maintain various temperature marks, Faster boils, Larger boils, Keeps the kitchen a bit cleaner and the stove is freed up

Cons
Must use outdoors, propane is flammable therefore dangerous if used incorrectly, Propane bottles can easily become headaches when the laws change about various features on them

In the end, you are ultimately the deciding factor on use or non use. Things to remember are "Do I have the adequate space?", "Can I use it on my balcony(for you apartment and condo people)?", "Am I willing to stand out in the cold to brew?". I would gamble most of us would say yes to that last one.

Brewing & the Fire Dept

"But how is the Fire Deptarment involved with brewing?"

Well, its not really unless you are a fire fighter(my hats off to you) or know some who homebrew. The other reason would be if you set something on fire. Does it happen? Yup. Just ask the guy who ruined the turkey when he burnt his house down. Like anything that involves flames, gases at pressure, and/or drinking, things can get out of hand. Still safety is paramount when using anything propane fueled. But then again, lets face it safety can ruin the fun too.

turkey.jpg


First off, somethings great things to remember are those various safety tips that will save you from being that turkey guy. They are:

1. Always use in a well ventilated area. Outside is a good spot.
2. Ensure your equipment is in good working order (i.e. current hydro on tank, hose not damaged, ect.).
3. Always light the burner with your body being a safe distance. those long Bic BBQ lighters are great.
4. Make sure the gas is off when not in use.
5. Ensure you have quick and easy access to a way to put out a fire if it occurs.

But what about when safety gets in the way? Well, this is something that I feel requires extra note of. Especially right around the holidays, turkey fryer kits are abundant. In recent years, many of unsuspecting chefs have burned down decks, houses, and themselves. To combat this, the companies started to put timers on the regulators. So in order to keep the flame going, you have to push a button. To a brewer, this can be a fun killer. Be very aware that while this safety feature is good to have, it does tend to be a big pain in the butt for brewers. So what does this mean?

Look for units that don't have this feature.

But remember, safety is still paramount.

Burning a hole in your pocket

So now you want to buy this great tool. Indeed you should. But there are still a few things you may want to consider.

Remember, no burner is complete without a fuel source. 20lb propane bottles can run right around $30-40 new. These are usually empty and carry the latest safety features that are required by law. To fill one can then cost $10-15 depending on your local cost.

Another option is a tank exchange. Places like Sears, Home Depot, and Lowes usually have a tank exchange service. Where I live, they even have one that delivers to you. Basically you bring your emty tank in and exchange for a another that is full. These can run $15-20 each time, but can be a blessing when you dont have to mess around with faulty valves, tanks that havent hydro'd in a while, or finding a station to fill them.

What about the type of burner and its ratings? Figuring out the happy medium of heat input and price is the tricky part. One way to help is if you know what size of boil and brewing equipment you will be using. Is a 210,000 BTU burner needed to do a partial boil. Nope. But if you plan to upgrade to keggles or a larger pot, maybe. Another thing is to avoid the urge to go for overkill. Tim "The Toolman" Taylor might approve but in the end it could be nothing more than a waste.

Remember that thing I told you to remember about BTUs? Well, BTU ratings of burners are heat output only. That means the number that comes along with it is what the burner can put out at the ideal level. In the end, your pot wont see all that power. Often brewers are annoyed because there super duper heavy duty burner doesnt hack it. Amazing how companies try to make their product sound great. Many other factors go into why a pot boils faster or slower with a burner. Weather, barometric pressure, design features and initial temperature of the water all come into play. Another is the amount of oxygen mixed with the propane. Most burners come with a plate that is adjusted to regulate the mix better. Blue flames = good (hotter), Orange = bad(less so). So just because your burner you bought says its a 1,000,000 BTU burner doesnt mean your pot will be fully subjected to it.
 
The Burners

So whats out there to get? Well, I have complied some data on that and picked some more popular models to show you. These all have been mentioned on HBT or sold by one of the big three online brewstores. My apologies if I miss one. Oh, and I am in no way promoting any of these.

Bayou Classic

SP1: This model is a high pressure (HP) jet burner with a 185,000 BTU rating. The gas flows at 20psi. Basic jet burner really but doesnt lend to good heat dispertion.

SP1.jpg


SP2: Just a double jet version of the SP1. Double the power and elements.

SP2.jpg


SP10: This HP burner pumps out 185,000 BTU from a cast iron element. A nice wind guard protects the flame and helps to channel the heat up better. Sounds like a jet taking off at full on.

SP10.jpg


Heating Data: 5 gallong full boil = ~15-20 Minutes

SP50: Think of the SP10, but scaled down initially. It looks the same but comes with a low pressure (LP) regulator and longer stand legs. It puts out 55, 000 BTUs. However, it can be upgraded to the HP version.

SP50.jpg


SQ14: A LP model that comes with a finer control. On top of the regulator sits a needle valve to help fine tune the flame. 55,000 BTUs agian on this model.

SQ14.jpg


Heating Data: Water to strike temperature = ~25 Minutes. Courtesy of Proetus

Kick a Banjo: This is the beast of the Bayou Classic family. A HP model that puts out 210,000 BTU out of a cast iron element. Bigger isnt always better though. This thing will stress your flow regulator on the bottle to its max. Can possibly trip it if the flow is started too fast. Recommended to have a full bottle to start.

kicka.jpg


Hurricane Burner

According to the manufacturer, this very LP cast iron element can pump out 60,000 BTU on only 1psi. Wind guards protect this massive thing that is 10" across.

hurricane-


King Cooker

Another HP jet burner putting out 110,000 BTU. Stand is more basic than some and prices tend to be cheaper.

king.jpg


Blichmann

Ahhh, the gold standard of brewing stuff. Even the fermenter people get in on the action. Their floor/stand burner is all stainless steel and can be either put in a brewing stand or have legs attached. Legs and stand extra too. According to Blichmann, this is the most efficient unit on the market. Its BTUs stand at 72,000.

blich.jpg



So hopefully this helps you figure the options out there. I will update this as required. And if anyone has suggestions or something to add, please feel free to do so. Things like typical boil times would be good data to add. Cheers!
 
Just to reiterate on the BTU issue, as someone who's used both the kick-a-banjo ("210k") and the SQ14 (55k) burners, there's really no difference in heating up a keggle of wort. If anything, the SQ14 seems faster. I don't know where those ratings derive from, but in real-world homebrew context, in typical brewing weather and using a 20# propane tank, the SQ14 is more than adequate for our needs. Don't get put off by it "only" being 55k.
 
Just to reiterate on the BTU issue, as someone who's used both the kick-a-banjo ("210k") and the SQ14 (55k) burners, there's really no difference in heating up a keggle of wort. If anything, the SQ14 seems faster. I don't know where those ratings derive from, but in real-world homebrew context, in typical brewing weather and using a 20# propane tank, the SQ14 is more than adequate for our needs. Don't get put off by it "only" being 55k.

+10 The SQ-14 would be a good choice. I have one and love it.
 
i have the SQ-14 also. All others seemed overkill. My question is what is the most efficient (least fuel used) way to heat up X gallons of water?

obviously this would take a lot of experimentation and weighing.

How long does it take you to heat up your keggle (and how many gallons do you put in there..)

Next time I brew, I will try to weigh before/after and time the process , but can only go down to 0.5 pounds at this time.
 
Just to reiterate on the BTU issue, as someone who's used both the kick-a-banjo ("210k") and the SQ14 (55k) burners, there's really no difference in heating up a keggle of wort. If anything, the SQ14 seems faster. I don't know where those ratings derive from, but in real-world homebrew context, in typical brewing weather and using a 20# propane tank, the SQ14 is more than adequate for our needs. Don't get put off by it "only" being 55k.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this. Was out in WV helping a friend.

Yes, do not be scared off by the BTUs. Like I said in the first posts, big BTUs doesnt really mean anything. Remember to keep the cost and burner to what is reasonable. I am working on getting some hard data as we speak. Stay tuned.

For the record, I have the SP10. Great burner. But from other brewers, the SQ14 is great too. If anyone else has any of the others, please feel free to leave a review and I will incorporate it into the OP.
 
To throw one more prop out to the SQ14, the needle valve is real nice if you think you might try a decoction mash for any reason in the future. You really do get to dial in a nice, gentle flame when you need it, so you can boil a fairly thick mash without scorching it. I'm also convinced it helps with gas usage, as in the boil you can dial it down to just keep the wort on a nice, low boil. It also helps when trying to get through the hot break without a boilover, you can just drop it down a bit when it starts looking like it might boil over.
 
To throw one more prop out to the SQ14, the needle valve is real nice if you think you might try a decoction mash for any reason in the future. You really do get to dial in a nice, gentle flame when you need it, so you can boil a fairly thick mash without scorching it. I'm also convinced it helps with gas usage, as in the boil you can dial it down to just keep the wort on a nice, low boil. It also helps when trying to get through the hot break without a boilover, you can just drop it down a bit when it starts looking like it might boil over.

Many of the burners have a needle valve after the regulator, but the finer control comes from having it on the regulator. When it comes to popularity among homebrewers, this seems to be the unit.
 
Many of the burners have a needle valve after the regulator, but the finer control comes from having it on the regulator. When it comes to popularity among homebrewers, this seems to be the unit.

+1 I believe the regulators you guys are referring to are of he adjustable pressure type. There is typically no control valve other than the adjusting knob on the regulator itself which does double duty as the gas shut off and pressure adjustment control. I much prefer this type of regulator over the fixed pressure units mostly for the superior flame control at any level.
 
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