Burner Advice

[Homercidal]

So I'm building a new brew rig. It's a more portable BIAB style steel frame rig with a mast and arm for hoisting the bag, than can pivot away to drip into another container if desired, integrated burner, comes apart and can pack into a small package to either fit better in the garage, or fit better in the trunk to take to brewdays.

Anyway, the basic frame is built and I'm ready to install a burner, but I really don't want to use the burner from my current rig since it's just a turkey fryer jet burner and it's LOUD. (I might rig it up for testing, but that's beside the point.)

What I'm looking for in a burner is something that heats quickly, but doesn't make a lot of noise. Cost is a factor. I don't need anything with fancy features because I'm going to be removing the burner from whatever it's mounted in and rig it up in my frame and likely make it easily removable or be able to pivot out of the way (So other things can nest inside the frame when not in use...)

So ideally it would just be the burner, and maybe the wind screen if it happens to come with one. (I can also easily build a screen if I have to.)

Do they sell decent burners without the stand? What kind should I be looking for? I see high pressure and low pressure types. I would be using a propane tank with it (Or electric when I get my electric BIAB kettle rigged up.)

 

[acidrain]

The banjo burners are really quiet, but the flame is susceptible to wind, and the flame rolls up the sides of the pot, which in my opinion, is not very efficient and may cause issues with valves, etc. Because the flame is kind of weak, they don't work very well on Keggles, which is what I use.
The multi-jet (wok) burners are a little noisy, and may be harder to light (sometimes they don't all want to light). When they are lit they work very well, and are not as noisy as your turkey fryer.

 

[day_trippr]

For ease of use, efficiency, and quiet operation, I don't think the bg14 can be beat, though it's arguably overkill for 5 gallon batches when a BG12 might make more sense.
If you go in the bg14 direction you could buy the components you need individually...

Burner:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV3DYIE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PS0938/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Windscreen/Mount:
https://www.brewershardware.com/12-Heat-Shield-Burner-Mount.html

All up ~$100.

...or, you could buy a KAB4 for $88 with everything you need, just have to cut off the welded legs...

Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

For ease of use, efficiency, and quiet operation, I don't think the bg14 can be beat, though it's arguably overkill for 5 gallon batches when a BG12 might make more sense.
If you go in the bg14 direction you could buy the components you need individually...

Burner:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV3DYIE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PS0938/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Windscreen/Mount:
https://www.brewershardware.com/12-Heat-Shield-Burner-Mount.html

All up ~$100.

...or, you could buy a KAB4 for $88 with everything you need, just have to cut off the welded legs...

Cheers!

I don't want to take from OP's thread, but with apologies I hope a slight segue is OK. I never knew the "split" heat shield was premised on the back support being 2" lower, to accommodate the strips. I thought I've seen many builds with these shield strips on just a standard configuration, all supports on the same plane but in looking at pics I've saved - no. Now I wonder if I'm going to have to drop that back strut down. Brewerhardware.com says raising the vessels won't help, because all you do is vent hot effluent to valves, etc.

 

[day_trippr]

Classic first-timer build "oops" is constructing the frame such that the kettle totally blocks all but a few square inches of frame opening leaving no way for exhaust to flow other than rolling under the frame and up. The oft-used band-aid is to attach some square bar segments to lift the kettle up off the frame. Given sufficient height the problem is solved, though at some cost to aesthetics.

Another classic "oops" is locating a burner windscreen such that the uppermost edge is in or close to the same horizontal plane as the surface the kettle rests upon. There needs to be a good inch of opening height at least.

Dropping a horizontal frame member solves the exhaust path problem and enables the windscreen "splits" to be used. With a bit of planning the windscreen will help locate that cross member...

Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

Trippr, do you personally think that among those options, the dropped member with the split screen is optimal? I'm not tied to anything and the only thing I'd lose are those diamond corner gussets - which is probably a good thing. I just want to make sure there's enough metal left to support 20 gallons. I hope this is enough - little nervous about the vessel resting on only 3 supports:

I just came across something today and now I'm peeved I forgot where. But I seem to recall someone posing 2 3/4" from banjo burner to bottom of a vessel as the ideal? (I'd imagine there is no ideal, each system is different; still, I found it interesting).

OP, if any of this detracts or distracts from your thread, no problem at all; I'll close down. Trippr, thanks a million for your help, as always.

 

[day_trippr]

The 2-3/4" metric was me citing the burner-tip-to-kettle-bottom spacing that Blichmann used on their Floor Burner.

While I didn't build my rig that way, I think dropping the rear cross member seems like an elegant solution to the exhaust flow problem. It shouldn't affect the carrying capacity of the frame at all, but I can understand why not having that fourth support under a kettle might inspire a bit of nervousness...

Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

Ha! Figured if I were to take a stab at authorship, should have been you, Trippr. So, the dropped member is one option for venting. And I know you mentioned a shim as a rather inelegant option. Would you mind sharing what you came up with? I actually am pretty nervous about using only 3 members, perhaps irrationally so, but I wouldn't be honest if I didn't admit the nerves were there....

Note: Moved my concerns to another thread, so as to not hijack your thread any further. Thanks for the indulgence.

 

[Homercidal]

I don't mind a little tangent. It may be helpful for my own build.

I don't want or need a large burner. My plans for this particular rig is 2.5 gallons generally, with 5 gallons sometimes. I STILL want to finish my 5-10 Gallon electric single tier HERMS rig. I'm building this because I want a more portable stand for portable brewing, designing for building as gifts or less expensive option for friends who might want one, and just for fun.

My jet burner works fine, but I HATE the noise! I'd be willing to give up a little time to reduce the noise.

I would consider modifying my kettle or stand to deflect heat away from the valve. That is an issue with my current flame powered rig too.

 

[sillbeer]

How about going with a 120v electric system? There were several benefits to going electric for me. No noise was a huge plus for me. No need to worry about refilling bottles, ventilation, or wind. It heats more efficiently as well. Just a thought. You could do a single 120v panel very inexpensively and still make a portable unit.

 

[Homercidal]

How about going with a 120v electric system? There were several benefits to going electric for me. No noise was a huge plus for me. No need to worry about refilling bottles, ventilation, or wind. It heats more efficiently as well. Just a thought. You could do a single 120v panel very inexpensively and still make a portable unit.

I'm actually planning on going with a 220V electric kettle for this as well, but for now I want to go propane. I might even give/sell this one to a local person who can use it. That was kind of the plan at the start. IIRC it cost about $50 or so to build minus the burner.

Also need to get some flame paint. Bare steel isn't very pretty...

 

[day_trippr]

For a rig dedicated to 5 gallon batch sizes I would give the bg12 burner a good look. They're rather inexpensive, wicked easy to mount (there's a threaded mounting boss dead center on the underside) and put out ~55K BTUs with a 0-10psi regulator.

[...]Would you mind sharing what you came up with?[...]

For the record...when I decided to not take on a full stainless build with my newly acquired diploma from the Youtube School Of Welding, I literally designed my single tier around a pair of Blichmann Floor Burners.
That solved the exhaust flow issue, the windscreen positioning piece, and the "burning the crap out of any coating" problem in one fell swoop.
I've been running this rig for a couple of years now and the VHT paint is totally unaffected.

I need to take a non-blurry pic one of these days, but you can see the burner assemblies under the HLT (right) and BK.



Pre-paint dry fit check. The top of the pot rests are about an inch above the frame, which leaves plenty of area for exhaust to exit without rolling under the frame.



Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

Sorry OP! So day_trippr, you basically mean your rig elevates the vessel by what looks like, maybe 1", with the shield down an inch or so? Or whatever amounts to maybe 2 3/4" clearance?

Welder came today with quotes. Materials and labor: ss, 1210+tax; mild, $850+ tax (includes paint). Not a huge difference and makes me think, save up a little more for a ss job....but still, that difference is almost a monster mill, you know? If I can find any way to make mild and paint work, I'll do it......!

Edit: Like I said elsewhere, I can really space. I just read, you said 1" clearance above, and some recess below with the shield. OK.

 

[day_trippr]

The 2-3/4" is the distance from the tips of the burners to the top of the pot rests/bottom of the kettle.

The top of the pot rests are an inch above the frame - the adjustable bars are an inch tall and I positioned the burner frame so the bottom of the sliding bars just clear the frame.

The top of the windscreen is an inch below the top of the pot rests, so, essentially the same elevation as the top of the frame...

Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

OK, gotcha. Thanks, Trippr. I should probably sleep on it (because if it's not abundantly clear, I can be, er, uh, impulsive), but that dropped rear member looks perfect. Thanks, man.

 

[Homercidal]

Hmmm.... I should have placed my burner grates above the frame.

I can still move then, I guess. It's just cutting and welding.

 

[Homercidal]

For a rig dedicated to 5 gallon batch sizes I would give the bg12 burner a good look. They're rather inexpensive, wicked easy to mount (there's a threaded mounting boss dead center on the underside) and put out ~55K BTUs with a 0-10psi regulator.

Cheers!

Oh, that's just the size I was trying to find!