Building A Temp Control Unit

[jbakajust1]

I bought a Digital Temp Controller on eBay (AC 110~120V Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat F | eBay) and I am trying to wire it up. The wiring instructions don't come with the product, but there is a wiring guide

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I am hoping there is someone on here that can help me figure it out. Right now I have Power to the unit so the 3/4 slots are good. The 7/8 slots is good as well with the temp probe. I need help with the 1/2 slots, and the 5/6 slots. One of them is supposed to take the hot wire from the plug, and the other sends power through the unit to the outlet. So, my question is which slots get the power from the power cord, and which slots send the power from the unit to the outlet? If have found info online about a different model that wire's up different, but nothing about this one. Thanks for the help.

 

[Euphist]

The output contacts are rated at 5A on that model. If you are using it to switch a freezer, you will probably need a relay in between. Assuming you use a relay with a 115V coil, you would jump from the hot (black) wire to terminal 2, the relay coil would connect to terminal 1 and to the common (white) power connection. The contacts of the relay would then be used to switch on and off the hot side of the supply to the freezer.

The "Function Control" terminals may select whether it is in heat or cool mode.

 

[JuanMoore]

Most fridges and freezers draw less than 5A, so you shouldn't need a relay. You should still check the tag on whatever you'll be controlling to see how much it draws, just to be sure. I haven't figured out what terminals 5 & 6 are for. The old diagram that they shipped with labeled them as "lock". Switching between heating mode and cooling mode is done through the menu using the buttons on the front. Here's a simple wiring diagram that works-

 

[LordUlrich]

Most fridges and freezers draw less than 5A, so you shouldn't need a relay. You should still check the tag on whatever you'll be controlling to see how much it draws, just to be sure. I haven't figured out what terminals 5 & 6 are for. The old diagram that they shipped with labeled them as "lock". Switching between heating mode and cooling mode is done through the menu using the buttons on the front. Here's a simple wiring diagram that works-

While most fridges don't draw much power they do draw quite a lot at startup. I suggest a mechanical relay to isolate the controller and give you some overhead. A 15 amp relay can be had for a few dollars.

 

[JuanMoore]

While most fridges don't draw much power they do draw quite a lot at startup. I suggest a mechanical relay to isolate the controller and give you some overhead. A 15 amp relay can be had for a few dollars.

Yes, they draw much more power at start up than they do running, but even the start up draw is 5A or less for many fridges and freezers. I have 3 freezers, 2 fridges, and have helped many friends set up keezers and ferm fridges, only one of which draws more than 5A at start up. To be on the safe side, check the tag on the appliance, and if it doesn't list it, or if it's more than 5A, use a relay or a controller with a higher contact rating.

 

[Covert]

This guy has one that goes up to 10 amps: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I guess he modified it or added a 10 amp relay. His is about $15 more and he ships from Canada. In the add he has the picture of the Celcius one but he said that the one he is selling is Fahrenheit.

 

[JuanMoore]

This guy has one that goes up to 10 amps: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I guess he modified it or added a 10 amp relay. His is about $15 more and he ships from Canada. In the add he has the picture of the Celcius one but he said that the one he is selling is Fahrenheit.

I'm guessing it's the same controller and he did not modify it. The ones from china used to claim a 10A rating also.