Building a Brew Rig - Black Pipe?

[rono73]

Hey all, I'm in the process of building a horizontal brew rig, and was wondering if anyone has tried using plumbing black pipe as a frame? I thought it might be easy to assemble something if I could get 5-foot sections with threaded ends, and do it all without any welding. I was also thinking I could build a sub-level below the mash-tun/hot liquor tank, that I could slide my propane burner back and forth.

I've checked a lot of the galleries, and haven't seen anyone use black pipe. I figure there must be a reason, but can't think of one. Thanks.

 

[Reedwalker]

Home Depot and Lowes will custom cut black pipe for you. You only pay for the cost of the pipe. It's a standard service they provide.

Up to 1" you can generally find nipples in lengths of 18", 24", 36", and 48" pre-cut.

Sounds like a fine way to go. It can hold up a lot of weight. Paint it with a few coats of Rust-Oleum and you should have a nice lookin rig.

 

[zGrubermeister]

I was told by a Home Depot employee that sounded like he knew what he was talking about that you wouldn't be able to paint the black pipe easily because of its special coating. I guess it isn't just painted black. Just a heads up.

 

[philrose]

The sliding burner seems like a great idea if you don't want to plumb to multiple burner heads. Kinda limits your mash options but a cool idea. :rockin:

 

[BargainFittings]

Plan to use threaded unions in your build. Remember that all the threaded fittings have to be able to be threaded together and it will be impossible to turn some of them as you get further into the assembly of the rig. Also the lengths need to be right in order to get the rig to square up.

 

[Bobby_M]

Exactly. Just think about a simple rectangle for a second. You can build that with 4 elbows and 5 piece of pipe. Three sides would thread into the elbows, but the remaining side would have to be made up of two shorter pieces and a threaded union. They would have to be custom cut and threaded to leave room for the union. I say no dice.

Unistrut would end up being cheaper.

 

[wildwest450]

Plus the threading factor, you will eventually have to cut a piece and thread it. If you have an industrial electrical threader that's good. I made a hockey goal out of black pipe, I had access to an old hand threading setup, on a stand. That build was so labor intensive it wasn't worth it. I will agree strength will not be an issue. I feel it's just the wrong material for the application.

 

[harley03]

I would use unistrut you will not be disappointed and be glad you did. Especially if you want to reconfigure later on.

See this thread post 44 which is my rig.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/some-pics-my-new-brew-stand-90278/index5.html

 

[leboeuf]

If you have say $150 to spend on a cheap harbor freight welder/angle grinder/disks you can weld that black pipe with ease.... Speaking from experience

Edit: Now that I think of it, you'd probably break even with the cheapo welding setup since you wouldn't need to buy all the couplings....

 

[rono73]

First, thanks for all of your responses. I wasn't sure if Black Pipe was a good option, but I have so much of it on hand, I figured I might be able to re-purpose it.

Second, what is Unistrut, and where can I get it?

 

[Reedwalker]

I was told by a Home Depot employee that sounded like he knew what he was talking about that you wouldn't be able to paint the black pipe easily because of its special coating. I guess it isn't just painted black. Just a heads up.

Black Pipe is required to be painted when used outdoors. Rust-Oleum in a pint can works great. I use my hand inside a neoprene glove inside a cotton glove to do the job. One coat passes inspection, two coats if it was my brew rig.

Unistrut is an ultra-versatile product used for supporting multiple things.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Plan to use threaded unions in your build. Remember that all the threaded fittings have to be able to be threaded together and it will be impossible to turn some of them as you get further into the assembly of the rig. Also the lengths need to be right in order to get the rig to square up.

I remember that episode of the Three Stooges with Curly in the one "Plumbing We Will Go", in the bathtub screwing lengths of pipe together.

Your frames weakness will be at the threads that are cut into the pipes reducing the wall thickness and area besides the root of the threads will be the starting point of fractures and a failure.
Miter cut and welded it would be strong as hell given a cheap low quality iron it's made from. Cheaper, lighter and I would bet stronger is to bolt together angle iron if your not into welding your own stand or having your own welding equipment.
JMO's here, keep track of all those fittings they add up quickly.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Plus the threading factor, you will eventually have to cut a piece and thread it. If you have an industrial electrical threader that's good. I made a hockey goal out of black pipe, I had access to an old hand threading setup, on a stand. That build was so labor intensive it wasn't worth it. I will agree strength will not be an issue. I feel it's just the wrong material for the application.

Hand threading, are you nuts? I can see using a Rigid rachet had threader in a bind or a spot where a pipe stub is sticking out of a concrete wall on a job site. Threading at home is done with my Tri-Vice and a Rigid 700 power head, i'm too old and smart for manual labor.

 

[harley03]

You can usually pick up unistrut from Lowes, Home Depot or any other big building or electrical supply house.

 

[BrewBeemer]

You can usually pick up unistrut from Lowes, Home Depot or any other big building or electrical supply house.

Super Strut, Kindorf, Uni Strut all used to be cheap with the purchasing of 10' or 20' sticks. Not now it's not cheap. Even after all the bolts are tightened down they work loose with rocking and flexing the frame at the joints. This spells trouble unless you keep a box wrench mounted to the stand and retorque it frequently. Just a heads up working with it for 29 years.
I would get it built and when your happy with the final dimensions of the stand take it to someone and have them weld the strut together. This shouldn't take long or cost much as your already assembled or free by a frieend with Mig welder. Hell 3/32 with stick will work.JMO's.

 

[Bobby_M]

Another idea is to use carport/canopy fittings:

http://www.creativeshelters.com/Fittings/Canopy-Fitting.aspx?PeakStyle=Flat

 

[BrewBeemer]

Another idea is to use carport/canopy fittings:

http://www.creativeshelters.com/Fittings/Canopy-Fitting.aspx?PeakStyle=Flat

Them carport fittings could add up rather quickly to becoming an expensive stand.

 

[johnnyo1977]

Hey if you have the pipe and the know how then I say do it. and post pictures or make a video. I want to see it when your finished.

 

[climateboy]

Any progress? I'm thinking of trying the same thing.

 

[Sawdustguy]

Hand threading, are you nuts? I can see using a Rigid rachet had threader in a bind or a spot where a pipe stub is sticking out of a concrete wall on a job site. Threading at home is done with my Tri-Vice and a Rigid 700 power head, i'm too old and smart for manual labor.

Thats how we did the natural gas plumbing on my first rig. Thank God for Ridgid ratcheting threaders. If had to do over again I would have rented a power threader. It would have saved my son alot of work (it was the least he could do for his dear old dad).

 

[JetSmooth]

Any progress? I'm thinking of trying the same thing.

I'm also thinking about this, but not a full-scale rig. Just some modular stands for my MLT and what-not. So, pipe wouldn't be under anything that's getting heated.

Also, I've seen a lot of gas pipe furniture online and have been thinking of doing my basement bathroom with it. I know it can be done. But something complicated like a brew stand would require multiple cross-section braces and stuff. Probably more trouble than it's worth.