Briess 3.3 lb canisters or 3 lb bags of dried malt

[jmcdaniel0]

As I said earlier, I just put on my first run of Mr. Beer American Ale. I didnt add anything to it, Just followed the directions.

One of the kind folks on the Mr Beer thread suggested using the Briess 3.3 lb cannisters of LME. There are many many options to chose from, and I know nothing about hops.

What combinations of Hops to LME makes what? Also, I would need to know exactly how much weight on the Hops. I see they are sold by the ounce or pound

Is there a recipe guide somewhere? Or if anyone is experienced in using these I would love your input.

I two Little Big Mouth Bubblers setting empty. I figure I should put some more beer on lol

 

[flars]

Take a look at the beer kits at Northern Brewer. NB also gives you the entire recipe under the "Additional" tab.

 

[jmcdaniel0]

Take a look at the beer kits at Northern Brewer. NB also gives you the entire recipe under the "Additional" tab.

Ok so,

If I were to use this 1 gallon kit as an example, I would double the ingredients, for my 2.5 gallon Mr. Beer Keg?

http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/CaribouSlobber_ONEGALLON.pdf


This is the 1 gallon batch recipe:

- Steeping grains and mesh bag
Steep approx. 10 minutes—Brew Day, step 2
- 1.5 lbs. Northern Brewer Gold
malt extract syrup
Boil for 45 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
- 7 grams Willamette hops
Boil for 45 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
- 3.5 grams Willamette hops
Boil for 15 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
- Windsor Ale brewer’s yeast


So my ingredient list would look like:

Briess Golden Light LME - 3.3 lb

Willamette Hop Pellets 1 oz (I would use roughly 3/4)

Fermentis Safale US-05


Is it really that simple? Or am I way off the mark?

Obviously I would follow the brewing directions.

 

[flars]

I hope I followed your post.

Ok so,

If I were to use this 1 gallon kit as an example, I would double the ingredients, for my 2.5 gallon Mr. Beer Keg?


A simple linear scaling up of the ingredients is the way to go for a larger brew volume. This will leave one-half gallon of head space. You should install a blow off tube for the first few days of active fermentation otherwise the airlock may blow. Blowing an air lock will create a mess. A hot fermentation will increase the amount of krausen and can create off flavors. Be ready to control the fermentation temperature about mid-range for the yeast you are using. US-05 is best from 66° to 68°F.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/CaribouSlobber_ONEGALLON.pdf


This is the 1 gallon batch recipe:

- Steeping grains and mesh bag
Steep approx. 10 minutes—Brew Day, step 2
Better to steep the grains at about 150° to 160°F for 20 minutes.

- 1.5 lbs. Northern Brewer Gold
malt extract syrup
You can create a lighter colored beer by adding half the LME with 15 minutes left in the boil. For the Caribou Slobber I add all the extract at the beginning of the boil. Flavor is enhanced this way. Comes out tasting better than Moose Drool.

Boil for 45 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
- 7 grams Willamette hops
Okay. Hop bittering addition.

Boil for 45 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
- 3.5 grams Willamette hops
This addition would be with 15 minutes left in the boil. Hop flavoring addition.

Boil for 15 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
The last hop addition would be when the heat is turned off. Hop aroma addition.

- Windsor Ale brewer’s yeast


So my ingredient list would look like:

Briess Golden Light LME - 3.3 lb

Willamette Hop Pellets 1 oz (I would use roughly 3/4)

Fermentis Safale US-05 US-05 will give you a lower FG than the Windsor. I tried the Windsor once. It finished at 1.018. CS was way too sweet. I finished off with a one-half liter vitality starter of WY 1056 (US-05). FG was 1.012. Tasted great like all the other times I brewed it.


Is it really that simple? Or am I way off the mark?

Obviously I would follow the brewing directions.

When the instructions say if your water tastes good, it is good for brewing. That is wrong. Water with chlorine or chloramines, any municipal supply, may taste good but will make bad tasting beer.

At about 14 days from the start of active fermentation take your first SG reading. Take another a few days later. The second reading will most likely confirm
FG was reached unless there were large temperature swings during the fermentation.

I'm sure this is confusing. Tell me where clarification is needed.

 

[jmcdaniel0]

I hope I followed your post.



When the instructions say if your water tastes good, it is good for brewing. That is wrong. Water with chlorine or chloramines, any municipal supply, may taste good but will make bad tasting beer.

At about 14 days from the start of active fermentation take your first SG reading. Take another a few days later. The second reading will most likely confirm
FG was reached unless there were large temperature swings during the fermentation.

I'm sure this is confusing. Tell me where clarification is needed.

Not at all. It actually helps a lot. I usually use Distilled Water that you buy at a store for my wine making. I have pubic water supply at my house, and its awful. I dont even use it to drink lol. As far as Fermentation at a constant temp, I have pretty good control over that. I converted an old Hydroponics grow tent I found at a thrift store. 100% light proof, and a small space heater, keeps it perfectly at what ever te p I want, and I can fit 5 6.5 gallon carboys in it. I am looking at making some cheap pvc shelving to put my small batch fermenters on.


I was thinking about a blow off tube, but I wasnt for sure if it is needed.