Where are you guys getting an adjusting sputtering valve?
Brewhemoth conicals?
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Some guy wrote a huge thread about the subject of pressurized fermentation on here. 
There is also a wiki article on the subject. Parts and procedures are mentioned in both places.
Oh, and DaleP... thanks for the info on the pressure rating for the Brewhemoth. I don't think I will be able to fight off buying one for too much longer.
There is also a wiki article on the subject. Parts and procedures are mentioned in both places.Oh, and DaleP... thanks for the info on the pressure rating for the Brewhemoth. I don't think I will be able to fight off buying one for too much longer.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dale, I think I read that in this thread somewhere. Wasn't as sure about the triclamp valves but it sounds like people are doing fine with these.
Rivercity, thats a great testimonial. I hope to get brighter malt flavor from this technique as well as getting the benefit of natural carbonation and ease of yeast harvesting.
PJ, if you're talking about putting beer in a container with no relief valve, I've read where people observed pressures of 60psi or more from a fairly short period of active fermentation. So that doesn't seem like a good idea for a few reasons.
Cfrazier, you have to make your own spunding valve. I thought I read where Morebeer had one for sale but I didn't find it on their site.
thatjonguy
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I can't wait to order mine next week!
Lennie
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What additional fittings are you going to have put on yours? They do custom work on the things. I have the standard setup, one small triclamp up top with the 4" opening and a triclamp racking valve and dump valve below. I could see the utility of having a second fitting down by the racking valve to handle a short thermowell. If you aren't getting the pressurizing attachment you can get a tee and a long thermowell to put through the top fitting and still have an airlock. I just have a thermocouple taped to the outside of the fermentor and its not controlled my homemade chiller, I'll be modifying things eventually but in the winter chilling is not much of a problem.
I was seriously looking at the brewhemoth. Until I saw the almost 50% increase in price. Now it is no question. John will be getting my money.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
OK but the Brewhemoth is larger at 22gal so you have the option of brewing a lot bigger batch. I think the Brewhemoth is probably going to hold pressure better than the Blichmann. But you're right, they are a similar price now. The old price on the Brewhemoth was really low.
Why would you need a racking arm for a conical? It would seem to me that all you'd need for the Brewhemoth are the two valves, about $110. The racking valve on the Brewhemoth is sufficiantly low on the conical that I don't think you need to pull from below the port.
Why would you need a racking arm for a conical? It would seem to me that all you'd need for the Brewhemoth are the two valves, about $110. The racking valve on the Brewhemoth is sufficiantly low on the conical that I don't think you need to pull from below the port.
thatjonguy
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Can't wait until mine gets here!
thatjonguy
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Lennie said:
I went with a off the shelf tri-clamp. I saw someone used a tee with a 24 or 27 inch thermowell and a 90 degree elbow on top and put the airlock on the elbow off of the tee.
I thought about doing that with a pressurizer, but would like some feedback whether that would work or not.
Bokonon
Well-Known Member
I really don't see a point in the elbow up top, hook your spunding valve right to the tee. If you want to wait to spund the tank, start with a blowoff tube and switch to your spunding valve when fermentation slows down. I don't see a need to use an airlock on one of these
Lennie
Well-Known Member
I'm not doing 15gal batches so I wasn't sure the 27" thermowell would reach far enough down through a tee. You might want to get the tee and measure the distance needed, then have it made or make it yourself.
thatjonguy
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Bokonon said:
If you go airlock instead of blow off, if by chance you are doing 5 or 10 gallon batches, you would need an elbow for the airlock if you run a thermowell at the same time.
Or just cap the tee with a thermowell with a spunding valve and do a natural pressure ferment.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Here's mine, its made from the two parts listed in the pressurized fermentation thread. An adjustable pressure relief valve, and a gauge. I went to Lowes and stood there until I found the stuff to attach them together.
thatjonguy
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Lennie said:
I am assuming you could rig that up to a triclover fitting with a 1/2 NPT on it?
Lennie
Well-Known Member
The part numbers are in the link on page ne of the pressurized ferm thread, but here's what I bought from McMaster Carr:
0.5-30psi plastic adjustable relief valve, 99045K44
glycerin-filled 0-30psi gauge, 3785K131
In retrospect, a cheaper non-glycerin filled gauge would have been OK. I think the glycerin just prevents rusting in moist environments. Theres also a cheaper valve alternative thats brass, its supposed to work just harder to fine adjust. And you could go 0-60psi on the gauge and valve, I went with this because I'm using 5-15psi for fermenting and just dialing it to 30psi for carbonation.
Yes you could certainly hook up to a 1/2" NPT. I just used the ball lock QD so I could switch to a cornie keg, that way I can pre-purge my keg with gas from the fermentor or ferment in a cornie.
0.5-30psi plastic adjustable relief valve, 99045K44
glycerin-filled 0-30psi gauge, 3785K131
In retrospect, a cheaper non-glycerin filled gauge would have been OK. I think the glycerin just prevents rusting in moist environments. Theres also a cheaper valve alternative thats brass, its supposed to work just harder to fine adjust. And you could go 0-60psi on the gauge and valve, I went with this because I'm using 5-15psi for fermenting and just dialing it to 30psi for carbonation.
Yes you could certainly hook up to a 1/2" NPT. I just used the ball lock QD so I could switch to a cornie keg, that way I can pre-purge my keg with gas from the fermentor or ferment in a cornie.
EBloom97
Well-Known Member
Will this work? Adjustable Pressure Relief Valve with Gauge
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Dunno, it doesn't say what pressures its good to. The valve itself looks like the brass one I mentioned earlier. The price is certainly right, I think the brass adjustable valve itself is something like $15. If it goes to 15 or 30psi, I'd say it would fit the bill. I think Morebeer used to sell one but I don't know if they still do. Editted to add: looked on morebeer and searched for "relief valve" and they do have one, but it doesn't have a gauge. Same brass relief valve.
Basically there are no written rules regarding what pressures can be used. Supposedly anything up to 15psi is good for yeast, after that it is bit of a stress. The 30psi lets you get some free carbonation.
Another cheap way to go is a single pressure relief valve like comes on cornie keg lids. I bought one of those that is 15psi, might give that a go one of these days. You don't get to change pressure is all.
Basically there are no written rules regarding what pressures can be used. Supposedly anything up to 15psi is good for yeast, after that it is bit of a stress. The 30psi lets you get some free carbonation.
Another cheap way to go is a single pressure relief valve like comes on cornie keg lids. I bought one of those that is 15psi, might give that a go one of these days. You don't get to change pressure is all.
I was planning on buying the triclover to 1/2" NPT from brewers hardware.
Then piping on some fittings to allow for:
1) A relief valve: Valve, Pressure Relief - Compressor Valves - Air Compressor Accessories - 4TK26 : Grainger Industrial Supply
2) A pressure gauge
3) A connection to be able to hook up CO2 to prime the fermenter
Then piping on some fittings to allow for:
1) A relief valve: Valve, Pressure Relief - Compressor Valves - Air Compressor Accessories - 4TK26 : Grainger Industrial Supply
2) A pressure gauge
3) A connection to be able to hook up CO2 to prime the fermenter
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Hey I just bought that exact relief valve from Grainger! I got that and a 0-60psi gauge to build a second relief valve. It was cheaper and looked like it might be more robust, although I haven't received it yet so I don't know. I like the fact that it has some markings so you can get an idea of the pressure setting, although the gauge makes that moot I suppose.
Are you doing this on a Brewhemoth? If so are you going to buy a tee so you can charge and run a relief valve at the same time?
Are you doing this on a Brewhemoth? If so are you going to buy a tee so you can charge and run a relief valve at the same time?
DaleP
Well-Known Member
Hey! We are all on the same page. Put together a Spudding Valve at Brewhemoth central, testing it this weekend. A 15 gallon batch of APA, our main worry is the pressure relief valve won't exhaust enough CO2 to maintain a constant pressure. Will find out by Sunday.
thatjonguy
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If you want a thermowell with a spunding valve and a pressurizer, you might need a cross (or two tees). Unless you dropped the coin to get a triclamp fitting welded on the front (I didn't).
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
Yep I've got about 12 batches through mine using a spunding valve... Works great. I'm mobile now but I'll try and remember to post a few pics of my setup when I get home.
thatjonguy
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daufdi said:
I am still waiting for my Brewhemoth to be delivered and ordered all my fittings this afternoon so I am interested as well.
Where are you ordering your triclover cross from?
I a planning on buying them from brewershardware.com. I bought from him previously and they had good service. Price is right too.
thatjonguy
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daufdi said:
Hmmm...I didn't see any 1/1.5 inch crosses.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Just brewed my first batch in the Brewhemoth and used the spunding valve, started at 5psi then went to 10, then on up to 30psi by charging the conical with my CO2 tank.
Dale I think you'll find a spunding valve has no problem maintaining a constant pressure. At the peak of fermentation it barely makes an audible hiss and the set pressure is rock solid. When you use one to counter-pressure fill conrie kegs you hear it a lot more and it still keep up with that.
Jon, Brewhemoth's pressurizing attachment that is a ball lock gas post is real handy. You can then build your spunding valve with a ball lock QD and be abel to use it or to pressurize with your CO2 tank later in the process. Then you just need a tee to add the thermowell. I am thinking of putting the tee on the racking port though and running a shorter thermowell up into the tank from there. Honestly, until I get a fridge to put this thing in I'm not going to bother with a thermowell at all. My little chilling setup isn't performing like I'd hoped, I think about the best it can do is to pull some of the ferm heat out. It definitely won't work for reducing to lager temps.
I did see a cross on ebay I think.
Dale I think you'll find a spunding valve has no problem maintaining a constant pressure. At the peak of fermentation it barely makes an audible hiss and the set pressure is rock solid. When you use one to counter-pressure fill conrie kegs you hear it a lot more and it still keep up with that.
Jon, Brewhemoth's pressurizing attachment that is a ball lock gas post is real handy. You can then build your spunding valve with a ball lock QD and be abel to use it or to pressurize with your CO2 tank later in the process. Then you just need a tee to add the thermowell. I am thinking of putting the tee on the racking port though and running a shorter thermowell up into the tank from there. Honestly, until I get a fridge to put this thing in I'm not going to bother with a thermowell at all. My little chilling setup isn't performing like I'd hoped, I think about the best it can do is to pull some of the ferm heat out. It definitely won't work for reducing to lager temps.
I did see a cross on ebay I think.
I buy my NPT fittings locally. They are cheaper. I was going to buy the tri-clover to NPT from Brewers Hardware. Along with the other tri-clover hardware for the fermenter.
My Brewhemoths arrive Wednesday!:rockin: I had thermowell ports added during fabrication. I also intend to ferment under pressure. As for cooling, I am making my own coils with Little Giant condensate pumps in the freezer and circulate glycol through the coils. Still need a couple of fittings for the Spunding valves.
thatjonguy
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Ben58 said:
How many are you getting and when did you order?
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Congrats Ben. You might want to insulate the Brewhemoth, I think that would help temp control a lot.
Order was early Dec. Got 2 units. As for insulation, I already have been looking into nylon covered neoprene, 1/4" thick. Same as this...NEOPRENE SPONGE (WET SUIT MATERIAL)1-4 THICK eBay
Oh yeah, the whole brewery in the basement is the wife's.
Oh yeah, the whole brewery in the basement is the wife's.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
So you're going to make a conical cozy, excellent. I have a backed fiberglass water heater wrap that I was considering. Do you know the R value for the neoprene?
Lennie
Well-Known Member
This outfit seems to have good prices on neoprene, and free shipping.
Neoprene Sheets, Rubber, Poker Table Foam, Neoprene Pads
Neoprene Sheets, Rubber, Poker Table Foam, Neoprene Pads
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
I like the idea of a neoprene Brewhemoth. A little spray glue and it should be easy. I'm in!
-Joe
-Joe
Lennie
Well-Known Member
I was thinking it might be good to use a 1/2" to 3/4" thickness, if anything I think it would be easier to glue the cone and rounded top pieces to the cylindrical part. Plus that site I posted has free shipping if the order is above $75 and you would need to eitehr order two of the 48x80 sheets or get the thicker stuff.
By my calculations, we'd need approximately 17sqft for the cylinder (16" diameter, guessing 32"cylinder height plus a few feet each for top and bottom) . Anyone got a more accurate number than that?
By my calculations, we'd need approximately 17sqft for the cylinder (16" diameter, guessing 32"cylinder height plus a few feet each for top and bottom) . Anyone got a more accurate number than that?
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
Here are the numbers I used (note r2 and ch2 mean 'squared', not 'times two') (note2: I simplified the top to a flat disc. It should be close enough for our purposes):
Body diameter: d = 16"
Body radius: r = 8"
Cone height: ch = 8"
Body height: bh = 15"
Cone side length [s = sqrt( r2 + ch2 )]: 11.3137
Top surface area [PI * r2]: 201.0619
Body surface area [PI * d * bh]: 753.9822
Cone surface area: [PI * s * r]: 284.3445
Total surface area: 1239.3887 sq in
SA / 144: 8.6069 sq ft
I've got it all in a spreadsheet, so if anyone's got more accurate body/cone measurements, post up and I'll plug 'em right in.
-Joe
Body diameter: d = 16"
Body radius: r = 8"
Cone height: ch = 8"
Body height: bh = 15"
Cone side length [s = sqrt( r2 + ch2 )]: 11.3137
Top surface area [PI * r2]: 201.0619
Body surface area [PI * d * bh]: 753.9822
Cone surface area: [PI * s * r]: 284.3445
Total surface area: 1239.3887 sq in
SA / 144: 8.6069 sq ft
I've got it all in a spreadsheet, so if anyone's got more accurate body/cone measurements, post up and I'll plug 'em right in.
-Joe
Lennie
Well-Known Member
The cylinder part is only 15" long? That doesn't seem right to me. I bet it should be 25".
