Brewhardware or Stilldragon?

[TheZymurgist]

Anyone have experience with mounting the weldless bulkhead fittings from Brewhardware to a keggle? Here's what I'm looking at:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15wlf.htm

I know a couple guys that have used the Stilldragon ones with no problem, but they're a bit more expensive:

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/2-triclamp-weldless-bulkhead-fitting.html

Thoughts?

I'm also looking at the element enclosures from both sites and could use some input there as well:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc.htm

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/element-guard-kit.html

Thanks!

 

[passedpawn]

I don't think you would go wrong with either one. I also would like to suggest that the difference of $10 or $20 should not be a factor in your decision-making.

I have the still dragon with 2" TC ferrules welded onto my kegs. I can only comment on that model and say it's been 100% trouble-free.

[edit] here's a pic. I'll also add that I didn't choose these. The friend who welded the ferrules on there was doing the same thing and chose them. He is also a distiller (a legal one!), and he spends a lot of money at stilldragon.

 

[TheZymurgist]

I don't think you would go wrong with either one. I also would like to suggest that the difference of $10 or $20 should not be a factor in your decision-making.

I have the still dragon with 2" TC ferrules welded onto my kegs. I can only comment on that model and say it's been 100% trouble-free.

That's a good point. Overall the cost savings for two elements would only be $38. I think I'll go with the Stilldragon then.

 

[dyqik]

The StillDragon 2" Weldless TC bulkhead fitting is longer than necessary, and you can't get one of Bobby's (Brewhardware) ripple elements through it without bending the element to open up the bends. Even then, the element end stick back into the bulkhead fitting, possibly contacting it or trapping trub. I bought and fitted one just before Bobby released his 1.5" weldless TC bulkhead. Bobby has shown pictures of his ripple element fitting easily through his bulkhead, and the folded back end of the element doesn't run into that fitting as it's a bit shorter.

The slightly larger StillDragon 2" bulkhead fitting also needs to distort the pot a bit more than the 1.5" bulkhead fitting, which might make sealing harder on a keggle (although it's fine on my Bayou classic pot).

Short version - I'd go with the BrewHardware fitting if doing it over, but I now have a hole in my kettle for the 2" fitting...

On the element enclosure, the BrewHardware ones are fine. I haven't used the StillDragon ones, but if you are ordering from BrewHardware anyway...

 

[srice]

I know it doesn't answer your question, but I would suggest using the silver solder version of the 1.5" TC from Brew Hardware. It really isn't that hard to install - I've done 2 - and once installed and cleaned up, it should be leak free for a very long time.

 

[ch19]

I use the stilldragon adapter and element guard kit on my 30L kettle. They are built like a tank and are well worth the money IMO.

 

[TheZymurgist]

I know it doesn't answer your question, but I would suggest using the silver solder version of the 1.5" TC from Brew Hardware. It really isn't that hard to install - I've done 2 - and once installed and cleaned up, it should be leak free for a very long time.

I'm still considering that as an option. I have a friend that went this route, so I thought about asking for his help on the silver solder. Thanks!!

 

[jcav]

I went the StillDragon route but they are not weldless, they are welded. I used Bobby's stainless ripple elements and they fit great in my keggles with the welded StillDragon enclosures. You can see it in my build thread if you want to take a look. Both will work for you though.....

John

 

[GreenMonti]

I know I'm not quite in line with the thread title. However I went brewershardware route. With an S. Really heavy duty. I'm not sure how they can sell the piece for what they do. Considering the machine work in it. Like jcav I welded the fitting to my kettle.

 

[acidrain]

The Brewhardware enclosure is very thin, and although the strain relief holds the cord to the enclosure, the only thing that holds the enclosure to the base is some very this SS (think salt shaker re-purpose).
I have both, but only use the StillDragon.

 

[augiedoggy]

The Brewhardware enclosure is very thin, and although the strain relief holds the cord to the enclosure, the only thing that holds the enclosure to the base is some very this SS (think salt shaker re-purpose).
I have both, but only use the StillDragon.

Why would you need anything heavier? What are you subjecting them too? Especially if they have tri clover fittings to easily remove and clean them? The hotpod enclosure I have on mine is more than enough for any abuse I put my kettles through.. you could hang the whole kettle by the cord and the brewhardware enclosure would be more than strong enough to do it with no risk of damage.

True you couldn't run it over with a truck but why would you? It's the same thickness as most of the kettles it's used on so..

 

[passedpawn]

Why would you need anything heavier? What are you subjecting them too? Especially if they have tri clover fittings to easily remove and clean them? The hotpod enclosure I have on mine is more than enough for any abuse I put my kettles through.. you could hang the whole kettle by the cord and the brewhardware enclosure would be more than strong enough to do it with no risk of damage.

True you couldn't run it over with a truck but why would you? It's the same thickness as most of the kettles it's used on so..

True!

But everyone's sitch is different. My element enclosure is on the outside of a heavy kettle. The kettle gets moved by hand before and after every brew session (stored outside, in the sun and rain). There's loads of potential abuse there. It is subject to some banging around.

I'm not implying any of the enclosures above can't handle the abuse, but for me the sturdiest one is the best. I don't have both, so I can't compare them that way.

 

[augiedoggy]

True!

But everyone's sitch is different. My element enclosure is on the outside of a heavy kettle. The kettle gets moved by hand before and after every brew session (stored outside, in the sun and rain). There's loads of potential abuse there. It is subject to some banging around.

I'm not implying any of the enclosures above can't handle the abuse, but for me the sturdiest one is the best. I don't have both, so I can't compare them that way.

Yes I totally get your point but we are talking about a setup here with an element attached with a triclover adapter so it's removed before the kettle is lugged around.

 

[sillbeer]

The StillDragon 2" Weldless TC bulkhead fitting is longer than necessary, and you can't get one of Bobby's (Brewhardware) ripple elements through it without bending the element to open up the bends. Even then, the element end stick back into the bulkhead fitting, possibly contacting it or trapping trub. I bought and fitted one just before Bobby released his 1.5" weldless TC bulkhead. Bobby has shown pictures of his ripple element fitting easily through his bulkhead, and the folded back end of the element doesn't run into that fitting as it's a bit shorter.

The slightly larger StillDragon 2" bulkhead fitting also needs to distort the pot a bit more than the 1.5" bulkhead fitting, which might make sealing harder on a keggle (although it's fine on my Bayou classic pot).

Short version - I'd go with the BrewHardware fitting if doing it over, but I now have a hole in my kettle for the 2" fitting...

On the element enclosure, the BrewHardware ones are fine. I haven't used the StillDragon ones, but if you are ordering from BrewHardware anyway...

On my previous kettle I just sold I had the Still Dragon 2" TC mount with the Brew Hardware ripple element and did not have to bend my element to fit. It was tight but slid on. It was a great setup overall and I would do it again if I went welded. On my current setup I went completely weld less and sourced element enclosures from https://store.brewpi.com/featured/heating-element-enclosure-kit. With these enclosures I bought new ripple elements from brewers hardware and they work just fine.

The enclosures are way stronger than necessary and I was surprised how heavy they were. Overall, I like them much better than the welded unit I previously had.

 

[passedpawn]

Yes I totally get your point but we are talking about a setup here with an element attached with a triclover adapter so it's removed before the kettle is lugged around.

Like this?

 

[augiedoggy]

Like this?

Yes like your Chinese one you likely got from still dragon or ebay and like the hotpod which is also sold with the optional TC mounting base... If the whole point of having the TC easy disconnect element is to remove it for cleaning then why does it need to be that heavy duty? Is your sight glass next to it as damageproof? I get I. Your case if your storing everything outside in the elements (although with the easily removable elements those can be properly stored easily enough) and I even get the " Why not " reasoning for some too, I mean sure its better built.

But to imply to someone that there is fear and concern for using the hotpod in this configuration is really an unfounded statement.. Have there ever been a report here of someone's hot pod enclosure not holding up? I don't even recall anyone complaining of them not holding up to abusive use. Especially when we know the hottest thing now is replacing the element electrical enclosure all together with a plastic 30a plug which is weaker - less water resistant and more easily damaged than any of these.

 

[jekeane]

I Went with Brew Hardware Weldless TC and use the TC integrated elements he has. I have been pleased with them they mount well to both welded and weldless.

 

[dyqik]

On my previous kettle I just sold I had the Still Dragon 2" TC mount with the Brew Hardware ripple element and did not have to bend my element to fit. It was tight but slid on. It was a great setup overall and I would do it again if I went welded.

Are you talking about the StillDragon welded ferrule, or the weldless mount? I'm talking about the weldless TC fitting that the OP asked about, not a welded on part.

As you can see, the threaded portion is much longer than it needs to be, which made it impossible for me to install my ripple element without bending the element to go through. It wasn't even close. And the folded back end of the element sits inside the fitting, where it sometimes touches the fitting, and traps liquid leading to scorching risk.

Bobby's fitting is much shorter, so even though it's narrower, the ripple element goes through easily, and the folded back end doesn't reach inside it.

 

[ryane]

I'm not implying any of the enclosures above can't handle the abuse, but for me the sturdiest one is the best. I don't have both, so I can't compare them that way.

I have both element connectors, and I prefer the stilldragon housing, it just is a lot beefier than the hotpod and I also like the extra abuse it can take without compromising the housing. The hotpods arent watertight either if I remember correctly, whereas my still dragon is sealed

For the bulkhead fitting I think that the reason the stilldragon is longer is to be able to make it easy to tighten the triclamp next to the kettle. I welded on a short ferrule on my kettle and its a very very tight fit to get that clamp on there

Any reason you dont just get it welded?

 

[dyqik]

For the bulkhead fitting I think that the reason the stilldragon is longer is to be able to make it easy to tighten the triclamp next to the kettle. I welded on a short ferrule on my kettle and its a very very tight fit to get that clamp on there.

It's the threaded section that I think is much longer than it needs to be. With the fitting tightened to the kettle, there's about 3/4" of thread protruding beyond the nut.

 

[augiedoggy]

Are you talking about the StillDragon welded ferrule, or the weldless mount? I'm talking about the weldless TC fitting that the OP asked about, not a welded on part.

As you can see, the threaded portion is much longer than it needs to be, which made it impossible for me to install my ripple element without bending the element to go through. It wasn't even close. And the folded back end of the element sits inside the fitting, where it sometimes touches the fitting, and traps liquid leading to scorching risk.

Bobby's fitting is much shorter, so even though it's narrower, the ripple element goes through easily, and the folded back end doesn't reach inside it.

this is why I went with Bobbys fitting myself.

 

[dyqik]

this is why I went with Bobbys fitting myself.

I would have done too, since I was ordering other parts from him, and it's a smaller hole in the kettle. But he announced it the day after I fitted the StillDragon fitting to my kettle, having punched the bigger hole for it...