brew in a bag
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I've done a number of batches using brew in a bag. For the first few I calculated out the efficiency with both no sparge and with sparging and found so little difference that I only sparge for convenience (when I think the water plus grain bill may overflow my kettle). My efficiency was around 80 percent so I just quit worrying about it and do the brew for the enjoyment.
I found a calculator for choosing the strike temperature at http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/infusion.html that seems to get me pretty close to my mash temp.
To get the best efficiency, squeeze all the liquid out of the bag that you can. Any left behind will contain the sugars that you want to ferment. This squeezing is what gives the high efficiency without sparging. Make sure your grains are crushed fine or ground because that helps efficiency too. Since you have all the filter area of the bag you don't have to worry about stuck sparge as a typical mash tun would. As you squeeze, you'll see the last of the wort become cloudy. Don't worry about that, just give it plenty of time in the fermenter and it will all settle out. Expect to ferment for 3 to 4 weeks and then bottle if your hydrometer shows that the ferment is done.
I found a calculator for choosing the strike temperature at http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/infusion.html that seems to get me pretty close to my mash temp.
To get the best efficiency, squeeze all the liquid out of the bag that you can. Any left behind will contain the sugars that you want to ferment. This squeezing is what gives the high efficiency without sparging. Make sure your grains are crushed fine or ground because that helps efficiency too. Since you have all the filter area of the bag you don't have to worry about stuck sparge as a typical mash tun would. As you squeeze, you'll see the last of the wort become cloudy. Don't worry about that, just give it plenty of time in the fermenter and it will all settle out. Expect to ferment for 3 to 4 weeks and then bottle if your hydrometer shows that the ferment is done.
JeepDiver
Well-Known Member
With less than 10-12 lbs of grain I hit 75-78% with bigger grain bills I start to take a hit. Brewsmith does the calculations for volume and temp and once you get it adjusted for you equipment is usually spot on
80-85% for my usual grain bill (under 15lbs always), and I just use Beersmith to figure it out. Single infusion mash step and adjust the water amount to be 100% of the water I'm using, it's usually within a degree or two.
TopherM
Well-Known Member
Same here. I'm 100% BIAB, and my efficiency is always around 74-78%. Get BeerSmith. It only costs $22.00 at Birdman Brewing, but I would easily pay north of $100.00 for all of the conveniences it provides. It does pretty much every brewing calculation you can think of automatically. When you get BeerSmith, take the time to set up a custom equipment profile for the equipment you use, and everything will be spot on.
Also, remember there are different BIAB techniques as well. Right now, I just mash in the entire water volume, with great results, but when I first started, I was concerned about efficiency as well. First, always make sure you double mill your grains for BIAB, whenever possible. If you want to do a more traditional sparge with BIAB, here's how it's done.
Let's say you have a 10lb grain bill that calls for 7.2 gallons of strike water. Instead of mashing in the whole 7.2, you can mash in anything above the typical 1.25qt/lb, then use the remaining water in a separate pot, so in this example that'd at least 3.125 gallons in the mash, let's make it 4 gallons, so then 3.2 in your sparge pot. Once the mash is complete, squeeze and drain the bag as much as you can into the original mash/boil kettle, then DUNK SPARGE the bag into the secondary kettle with the 3.2 gallons of water at sparge temps, like around 168-170. This accomplishes the EXACT same thing as a traditional batch sparge, rinsing the final remaining carbohydrates from the grain husks. Dunk it in and out several times, then squeeze and drain the bag again. Pour the secondary pot into the original pot, mashout for 10 minutes, and you're ready for the boil!
Anyway, I still use this method whenever I order an online kit and can't double mill, and it works great. If you are in love with sparging, that's how it's done in BIAB!
Also, remember there are different BIAB techniques as well. Right now, I just mash in the entire water volume, with great results, but when I first started, I was concerned about efficiency as well. First, always make sure you double mill your grains for BIAB, whenever possible. If you want to do a more traditional sparge with BIAB, here's how it's done.
Let's say you have a 10lb grain bill that calls for 7.2 gallons of strike water. Instead of mashing in the whole 7.2, you can mash in anything above the typical 1.25qt/lb, then use the remaining water in a separate pot, so in this example that'd at least 3.125 gallons in the mash, let's make it 4 gallons, so then 3.2 in your sparge pot. Once the mash is complete, squeeze and drain the bag as much as you can into the original mash/boil kettle, then DUNK SPARGE the bag into the secondary kettle with the 3.2 gallons of water at sparge temps, like around 168-170. This accomplishes the EXACT same thing as a traditional batch sparge, rinsing the final remaining carbohydrates from the grain husks. Dunk it in and out several times, then squeeze and drain the bag again. Pour the secondary pot into the original pot, mashout for 10 minutes, and you're ready for the boil!
Anyway, I still use this method whenever I order an online kit and can't double mill, and it works great. If you are in love with sparging, that's how it's done in BIAB!
Thank you for all the help, I appreciate it. I am very curious how this is going to work. I wonder how much the bag material matters. It sounds as if everyone who utilizes this technique work in smaller batches. Im really excited to try this out... however Im still going to research this before I try it.
frailn
Well-Known Member
I started BIAB this year. One thing I highly recommend is consider your boil kettle size. I am using the 7 gallon aluminum pot that came with my turkey fryer set up. I have managed to get this to work on five gallon batches with 10 pounds of grain, but it's a pain.
I end up having to BIAB in 5 - 5.5 gallons in the boil kettle, because adding the bag of grain displaces the water to the top of the kettle.
Then I dunk sparge in a separate pot that has 2 gallons of water. Then pour those two gallons into the boil kettle after it has boiled off some wort. Simply because I can't get all the water I need to BIAB in that one 7 gallon pot. I will upgrade soon to a bigger kettle. But, I would highly suggest starting off with the right size if you can.
I'm going to get a 15 gallon kettle when I upgrade. Should be plenty big enough for 5 gallon BIAB with lots of room. Ten would work, as well, but 15 is safe if you ever want to do super large grain bills.
And regarding the bag type - I have been using a large bag I bought from the LHBS. But, would recommend buying a voille curtain at Walmart. I will be doing this soon, as well. It has a tighter weave then some of the standard bags sold at the LHBS, at least mine. Also, You can use the curtain right out of the bag (after washing it) - then customize it to your kettle later if you like by cutting and sewing it.
I end up having to BIAB in 5 - 5.5 gallons in the boil kettle, because adding the bag of grain displaces the water to the top of the kettle.
Then I dunk sparge in a separate pot that has 2 gallons of water. Then pour those two gallons into the boil kettle after it has boiled off some wort. Simply because I can't get all the water I need to BIAB in that one 7 gallon pot. I will upgrade soon to a bigger kettle. But, I would highly suggest starting off with the right size if you can.
I'm going to get a 15 gallon kettle when I upgrade. Should be plenty big enough for 5 gallon BIAB with lots of room. Ten would work, as well, but 15 is safe if you ever want to do super large grain bills.
And regarding the bag type - I have been using a large bag I bought from the LHBS. But, would recommend buying a voille curtain at Walmart. I will be doing this soon, as well. It has a tighter weave then some of the standard bags sold at the LHBS, at least mine. Also, You can use the curtain right out of the bag (after washing it) - then customize it to your kettle later if you like by cutting and sewing it.
JeepDiver
Well-Known Member
kyleblack said:
I have a 15 gallon blichmann and do 7 gallon batches a lot. I can do about 20 lbs of grain (but on larger batches I know I'm going to take an eff hit so have to adjust with smaller volumes)
Get some volie from bad bath and beyond. The material is finer so it will strain better and it is stronger than paint strained bags so it will last longer. Also the paint strainers aren't big enough for larger batches
There's a sticky thread on BIAB in the all grain forum with lots of info. Here's the link:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-brewing-pics-233289/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-brewing-pics-233289/
I have also been brewing like this have done three batches this way and it works very well. I was nervous at first but took a sampling to a guy I work with he is brutally honest he said it was really good so I will continue to brew this way. I have just been brewing for the taste and enjoyment of the hobby.
Bradinator
Well-Known Member
I got started with this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/
I do all stove top brewing, full boils though. My main brew kettle is only 6.5gallons, so just shy of what I need to do my mash in, so instead I mash in a separate smaller kettle and batch sparge to the correct volume after its done. I consistently get 75% efficiency with this method.
On a side note - If this is your first foray into all grain brewing I highly recommend reading this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing. Understanding the science behind why grain converts to starch was a huge help for me, especially concerning the mash temperatures.
I do all stove top brewing, full boils though. My main brew kettle is only 6.5gallons, so just shy of what I need to do my mash in, so instead I mash in a separate smaller kettle and batch sparge to the correct volume after its done. I consistently get 75% efficiency with this method.
On a side note - If this is your first foray into all grain brewing I highly recommend reading this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing. Understanding the science behind why grain converts to starch was a huge help for me, especially concerning the mash temperatures.
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